黔东南■家女性盛装技艺特征与文化内涵
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摘要
贵州黔东南■家人依山傍水而居,少与外界交流,因此其女性盛装民族与艺术特征鲜明,反映出文化与艺术的双重属性,具有较高的研究价值。文章以黔东南■家女性盛装为研究对象,通过查阅历史文献资料结合实地调研的方法,以图像学和社会学为角度,对黔东南一带■家女性盛装的构成形态、着装步骤、技艺特征、文化内涵进行系统的梳理与分析。研究表明,■家女性盛装中运用的刺绣工艺独具特色,技艺精湛,蜡染纹样题材独特,构图严谨,充分体现了■家妇女的智慧与勤劳。另外,■家女性盛装所表现出的文化内涵是■家人最宝贵的精神财富,■家人正是通过服饰这个媒介,构建了本族群的社会记忆与历史记忆,强化了族群认同,更增强了民众间的凝聚力。
The Gejia people live at the foot of mountain and beside rives in Southeast Guizhou. They seldom communicate with the outside world,so the female costume of Gejia has obvious national and artistic characteristics and reflects the dual attributes of culture and art. It has high research value. This paper took female costume of Gejia in Southeast Guizhou as the research object,and then,systematically analyzed the composition form,dressing steps,technical characteristics and cultural connotation of Southeast Guizhou 's female costume from the perspectives of iconology and sociology by combining historical literature and field investigation. The result shows that the embroidery techniques applied in female costume of Gejia are unique and exquisite,and the patterns dyed by batik are unique,with precision picture composition. These fully reflect wisdom and diligence of Gejia women. In addition,the cultural connotation displayed in female costume is the most precious spiritual wealth of Gejia people. By taking the costume as a medium,the social and historic memories were constructed,and ethnic identity and cohesion were strengthened.
The Gejia people live at the foot of mountain and beside rives in Southeast Guizhou. They seldom communicate with the outside world,so the female costume of Gejia has obvious national and artistic characteristics and reflects the dual attributes of culture and art. It has high research value. This paper took female costume of Gejia in Southeast Guizhou as the research object,and then,systematically analyzed the composition form,dressing steps,technical characteristics and cultural connotation of Southeast Guizhou 's female costume from the perspectives of iconology and sociology by combining historical literature and field investigation. The result shows that the embroidery techniques applied in female costume of Gejia are unique and exquisite,and the patterns dyed by batik are unique,with precision picture composition. These fully reflect wisdom and diligence of Gejia women. In addition,the cultural connotation displayed in female costume is the most precious spiritual wealth of Gejia people. By taking the costume as a medium,the social and historic memories were constructed,and ethnic identity and cohesion were strengthened.
引文
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[2]熊忆.贵州麻塘■家家人传统服饰[J].装饰,2007(10):127-128.XIONG Yi. The traditional dress adornment of Gejia People in Matang, Guizhou province[J]. ZHUANGSHI, 2007(10):127-128.
[3]钟静.苗族■家女装基本结构与穿着方式分析[J].艺术探索,2008,22(4):122-123.ZHONG Jing. Analysis on the basic structure and dressing style of Gejia women’s clothing in Miao nationality[J]. Arts Exploration,2008,22(4):122-123.
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[5]龙初凡.飒爽英姿“古戎装”红弓白箭“射太阳”:■家服饰文化内涵考[J].黔东南民族师范高等专科学校学报,2002,20(5):27-30.LONG Chufan. Bright and brave“ancient costume”red bow and white arrow “shooting the sun”:the connotation of the clothing culture of Gejia[J]. Journal of Southeast Guizhou National Teacher’s College,2002,20(5):27-30.
[6]张柬,彭泰楠.清平县志[M].凯里:清道光十八年(1838):卷五.ZHANG Jian, PENG Tainan. Qing Ping County Annals[M]. Kaili:Qing dynasty Daoguan eighteen years(1838):Volume 5.
[7]高山,张国云,许平山,等.黔东南台江县反排苗族妇女服饰特征[J].丝绸,2017,54(10):64-69.GAO Shan, ZHANG Guoyun, XU Pingshan, et al. The characteristics of Fan-pai Miao women’s clothing in Taijiang County of South-East Guizhou[J]. Journal of Silk,2017,54(10):64-69.
[8]崔荣荣,张竞琼.近代汉族民间服饰全集[M].北京:中国轻工业出版社,2009:134.CUI Rongrong,ZHANG Jingqiong. A Complete Collection of Folk Costumes in Modern Han Nationality[M]. Beijing:China Light Industry Press,2009:134.
[9]黎平.漫步且兰黄平[M].北京:中国文联出版社,2004:416.LI Ping. Strolling in the Julan Huangping[M]. Beijing:China Federation of Literary and Art Circles Publishing House,2004:416.
[10]周莹.■家服饰蜡染艺术的族群认同研究:贵州黄平重兴乡望坝村的研究案例[J].原生态民族文化学刊,2011,3(2):60-65.ZHOU Ying. The study of ethnic identity in Ge people batik costumes:a case study of Wangba village in Chongxing township of Huangping county,Guizhou province[J].Journal of Original Ecological National Culture,2011,3(2):60-65.
[11]鸟丸知子.一针一线:贵州苗族手工艺[M].蒋玉秋,译.上海:中国纺织出版社,2011:66.TOMOKO Torimaru. One Needle,One Thread:Guizhou Miao(Hmong)Embroidery and Fabric Piece Work from Guizhou, China[M]. Translated by JIANG Yuqiu.Shanghai:China Textile&Apparel Press,2011:66.
[12]廖江波,张小红,杨小明.江西传统夏布绣的技艺特征[J].丝绸,2018,55(3):65-71.LIAO Jiangbo, ZHANG Xiaohong, YANG Xiaoming.Technology and art characteristics of traditional Grass ramie embroidery in Jiangxi[J]. Journal of Silk,2018,55(3):65-71.
[13]吉成名.论祖先崇拜[J].湘潭大学学报(哲学社会科学版),2015,39(4):141-144.JI Chengming. On the study about ancestor worship[J].Journal of Xiangtan University(Philosophy and Social Sciences),2015,39(4):141-144.
[14]刘芝凤.寻找羿的后人[M].北京:人民出版社,2002:134.LIU Zhifeng. Looking for Descendants of Yi[M]. Beijing:People’s Publishing House,2002:134.
[15]钱玄,徐克谦,张采民,等.礼记(上)[M].长沙:岳麓书社,2001:202-204.QIAN Xuan,XU Keqian,ZHANG Caiming,et al. Rites(Part 1)[M]. Changsha:Yuelu Press,2001:202-204.
[16]爱必达.黔南识略[M].台北:成文出版社,1968:93.AI Bida. A Brief Introduction of Qiannan[M]. Taipei:Written Publishing House,1968:93.
[17]贵州省文史研究馆,贵州通志·土司土民志[M].贵阳:贵州人民出版社,2008:250.Guizhou Culture and History Institute. Tusi·Tuming Records,Guizhou General Annal[M]. Guiyang:Guizhou People’s Press,2008:250.
[2]熊忆.贵州麻塘■家家人传统服饰[J].装饰,2007(10):127-128.XIONG Yi. The traditional dress adornment of Gejia People in Matang, Guizhou province[J]. ZHUANGSHI, 2007(10):127-128.
[3]钟静.苗族■家女装基本结构与穿着方式分析[J].艺术探索,2008,22(4):122-123.ZHONG Jing. Analysis on the basic structure and dressing style of Gejia women’s clothing in Miao nationality[J]. Arts Exploration,2008,22(4):122-123.
[4]廖春霞.■家妇女服饰浅说[J].贵州文史天地,1996(4):55-56.LIAO Chunxia. The simple analysis of Gejia’s clothing[J].Literature and History of Guizhou,1996(4):55-56.
[5]龙初凡.飒爽英姿“古戎装”红弓白箭“射太阳”:■家服饰文化内涵考[J].黔东南民族师范高等专科学校学报,2002,20(5):27-30.LONG Chufan. Bright and brave“ancient costume”red bow and white arrow “shooting the sun”:the connotation of the clothing culture of Gejia[J]. Journal of Southeast Guizhou National Teacher’s College,2002,20(5):27-30.
[6]张柬,彭泰楠.清平县志[M].凯里:清道光十八年(1838):卷五.ZHANG Jian, PENG Tainan. Qing Ping County Annals[M]. Kaili:Qing dynasty Daoguan eighteen years(1838):Volume 5.
[7]高山,张国云,许平山,等.黔东南台江县反排苗族妇女服饰特征[J].丝绸,2017,54(10):64-69.GAO Shan, ZHANG Guoyun, XU Pingshan, et al. The characteristics of Fan-pai Miao women’s clothing in Taijiang County of South-East Guizhou[J]. Journal of Silk,2017,54(10):64-69.
[8]崔荣荣,张竞琼.近代汉族民间服饰全集[M].北京:中国轻工业出版社,2009:134.CUI Rongrong,ZHANG Jingqiong. A Complete Collection of Folk Costumes in Modern Han Nationality[M]. Beijing:China Light Industry Press,2009:134.
[9]黎平.漫步且兰黄平[M].北京:中国文联出版社,2004:416.LI Ping. Strolling in the Julan Huangping[M]. Beijing:China Federation of Literary and Art Circles Publishing House,2004:416.
[10]周莹.■家服饰蜡染艺术的族群认同研究:贵州黄平重兴乡望坝村的研究案例[J].原生态民族文化学刊,2011,3(2):60-65.ZHOU Ying. The study of ethnic identity in Ge people batik costumes:a case study of Wangba village in Chongxing township of Huangping county,Guizhou province[J].Journal of Original Ecological National Culture,2011,3(2):60-65.
[11]鸟丸知子.一针一线:贵州苗族手工艺[M].蒋玉秋,译.上海:中国纺织出版社,2011:66.TOMOKO Torimaru. One Needle,One Thread:Guizhou Miao(Hmong)Embroidery and Fabric Piece Work from Guizhou, China[M]. Translated by JIANG Yuqiu.Shanghai:China Textile&Apparel Press,2011:66.
[12]廖江波,张小红,杨小明.江西传统夏布绣的技艺特征[J].丝绸,2018,55(3):65-71.LIAO Jiangbo, ZHANG Xiaohong, YANG Xiaoming.Technology and art characteristics of traditional Grass ramie embroidery in Jiangxi[J]. Journal of Silk,2018,55(3):65-71.
[13]吉成名.论祖先崇拜[J].湘潭大学学报(哲学社会科学版),2015,39(4):141-144.JI Chengming. On the study about ancestor worship[J].Journal of Xiangtan University(Philosophy and Social Sciences),2015,39(4):141-144.
[14]刘芝凤.寻找羿的后人[M].北京:人民出版社,2002:134.LIU Zhifeng. Looking for Descendants of Yi[M]. Beijing:People’s Publishing House,2002:134.
[15]钱玄,徐克谦,张采民,等.礼记(上)[M].长沙:岳麓书社,2001:202-204.QIAN Xuan,XU Keqian,ZHANG Caiming,et al. Rites(Part 1)[M]. Changsha:Yuelu Press,2001:202-204.
[16]爱必达.黔南识略[M].台北:成文出版社,1968:93.AI Bida. A Brief Introduction of Qiannan[M]. Taipei:Written Publishing House,1968:93.
[17]贵州省文史研究馆,贵州通志·土司土民志[M].贵阳:贵州人民出版社,2008:250.Guizhou Culture and History Institute. Tusi·Tuming Records,Guizhou General Annal[M]. Guiyang:Guizhou People’s Press,2008:250.