化妆品中过敏性香料及检测技术研究进展
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摘要
介绍了化妆品中过敏性香料化合物的种类、相关法规。综述了国内外相关检测方法,包括气相色谱法、气相色谱-质谱法、气相色谱-三重四极杆质谱法、液相色谱法、液相色谱-串联质谱法、多维气相色谱法、多维气相色谱-质谱联用法、气相色谱-傅里叶变换红外光谱联用技术等,并对各方法的适用范围、优缺点等进行了介绍。展望了二维色谱-质谱联用检测技术在此领域的应用前景。
Several species of allergic fragrances compounds in cosmetics and the relevant laws and regulations were described. The relevant test methods at home and abroad were reviewed,including gas chromatography,gas chromatography-mass spectrometry,gas chromatography-triple quadrupole mass spectrometry,liquid chromatography,liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry,multidimensional gas chromatography,multidimensional gas chromatography-mass spectrometry and gas chromatography-fourier transform infrared spectroscopy combined techniques etc. The application scopes of the above-mentioned methods,and the advantages and disadvantages were explained. The application prospects of the combined analytic technique of two-dimensional chromatography-mass spectrometry in this field was prospected.
Several species of allergic fragrances compounds in cosmetics and the relevant laws and regulations were described. The relevant test methods at home and abroad were reviewed,including gas chromatography,gas chromatography-mass spectrometry,gas chromatography-triple quadrupole mass spectrometry,liquid chromatography,liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry,multidimensional gas chromatography,multidimensional gas chromatography-mass spectrometry and gas chromatography-fourier transform infrared spectroscopy combined techniques etc. The application scopes of the above-mentioned methods,and the advantages and disadvantages were explained. The application prospects of the combined analytic technique of two-dimensional chromatography-mass spectrometry in this field was prospected.
引文
[1]程艳,董益阳,王超,等.化妆品过敏的检测和评价[J].卫生研究,2006,35(6):811-813.
[2]朱晓敏,张晓军,何韶衡.化妆品中致接触性皮炎的过敏原调查分析[C]//中华医学会2009年全国变态反应学术会议论文集.北京:中华医学会,2009.
[3]Devos S A,Constandt L,Tupker R A,et al.Relevance of positive patchtest reactions to fragrance mix[J].Dermatitis,2008,19(1):43-47.
[4]王文慧,李邻峰,路雪艳.化妆品过敏的常见变应原及诊断[J].中国工业医学杂志,2006(19):223-227.
[5]刘思然,朱英.化妆品中香料的安全性及检验技术研究进展[J].中国卫生检验杂志,2017,27(9):1365-1368.
[6]中华人民共和国国家质量监督检验检疫总局.化妆品中柠檬醛、肉桂醇、茴香醇、肉桂醛和香豆素的测定气相色谱法:GB/T24800.9-2009[S].北京:中国标准出版社,2009.
[7]Alain C,Esmeralda C,Nathalie D,et al.Collaborative validation of the quantification method for suspected allergens and test of an automated data treatment[J].Journal of Chromatography A,2011,1218:7869-7877.
[8]中华人民共和国国家质量监督检验检疫总局.化妆品中十九种香料的测定气相色谱-质谱法:GB/T 24800.10-2009[S].北京:中国标准出版社,2009.
[9]王超,王星,季美琴.气相色谱-质谱法分析化妆品中16种香精香料[J].分析试验室,2006,25(11):118-122.
[10]Lamas J P,Lucia S P,Carmen G J,et al.Development of a solid phase dispersion-pressurized liquid extraction method for the analysis of suspected fragrance allergens in leave-on cosmetics[J].Journal of Chromatography A,2010,1217:8087-8094.
[11]Celeiro M,Guerra E,Lamas J P,et al.Development of a multianalyte method based on micro-matrix-solid-phase dispersion for the analysis of fragrance allergens and preservatives in personal care products[J].Journal of Chromatography A,2014,1344:1-14.
[12]Villa C,Gambaro R,Mariani E,et al.High-performance liquid chromatographic method for the simultaneous determination of 24fragrance allergens to study scented products[J].Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis,2007,44(3):755-762.
[13]席海为,马强,李强,等.高效液相色谱法对化妆品中17种致敏原的同时测定[J].分析测试学报,2010,29(1):46-50.
[14]刘威,李红娟,张帅,等.HPLC测定不同商品规格桂枝中香豆素、肉桂醇、肉桂酸、桂皮酸的含量[J].中国实验方剂学杂志,2013,19(18):134-138.
[15]李洁,王超,武婷,等.高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中三种香豆素的含量[J].日用化学工业,2006,36(4):257-259.
[16]黄善松,范忠,黄世杰,等.超高效液相色谱-串联质谱联用法测定香精香料中的香豆素和黄樟素[J].安徽农业科学,2014,42(20):6805-6806,6844.
[17]Giddings J C.Concepts and comparisons in multidimensional separation[J].Journal of High Resolution Chromatography&Chromatography Communication,1987,10(5):319-323.
[18]Giddings J C.Two-dimensional separation:concept and promise[J].Analytical Chemistry,1984,56(12):1258-1270.
[19]Glenn S F,Richard B G.Comprehensive two-dimensional gas chromatography with mass spectrometric detection(GC×GC/MS)applied to the analysis of petroleum[J].Journal of High Resolution Chromatography,1999,22(5):251-255.
[20]许泓,李淑静,何佳,等.二维色谱-质谱联用检测食品中残留物的应用[J].食品研究与开发,2013,34(6):114-120.
[21]刘百战.烟草和卷烟烟气中生物碱手性组成的多维气相色谱-质谱分析[D].合肥:中国科技大学,2009.
[22]陈玉,陆舍铭.二维气相色谱技术及其在烟草行业中的应用[J].化学分析计量,2012,21(4):98-101.
[23]Miguel H,Elena I,Alejandro C,et al.Multidimensional chromatography in food analysis[J].Journal of Chromatography A,2009,1216(43):7110-7129.
[24]Aurélien R,Elise C,Christophe P,et al.Determination of suspected fragrance allergens extended list by two-dimensional gas chromatography-mass spectrometry in ready-to-inject samples[J].Journal of Chromatography A,2015,1404:95-103.
[25]Christophe D,Nobuo O,Kikuo S,et al.Full evaporation dynamic headspace in combination with selectable one-dimensional/twodimensional gas chromatography-mass spectrometry for the determination of suspected fragrance allergens in cosmetic products[J].Journal of Chromatography A,2012,1255:207-215.
[26]李珊,郭亚勤,薛渭宏,等.二维气相色谱-质谱在香精香料分析中的应用[J].香料香精化妆品,2016(4):22-27,66.
[27]Liu Z,Philips J B.Comprehensive two-dimensional gas chromatography using an on-column thermal modulator interface[J].Journal of Chromatographic Science,1991,29(6):227-231.
[28]刘思然.化妆品中29种香料成分标注情况调查及检测方法研究[D].北京:中国疾病预防控制中心,2016.
[29]Mohamed A,Menno B,Hans-Ulrich B,et al.Comprehensive twodimensional gas chromatography coupled to a rapid-scanning quadrupole mass spectrometer:principles and applications[J].Journal of Chromatography A,2005,1067(1/2):245-254.
[30]Sgorbini B,Ruosi M R,Cordero C,et al.Quantitative determination of some volatile suspected allergens in cosmetic creams spread on skin by direct contact sorptive tape extraction-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry[J].Journal of Chromatography A,2010,1217(16):2599-2605.
[31]Niederer M,Bollhalder R,Hohl C H.Determination of fragrance allergens in cosmetics by size-exclusion chromatography followed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry[J].Journal of Chromatography A,2006,1132(1/2):109-116.
[32]蒋瑾华,陈胜,谢钧宪.化妆品中10种有害香料化合物的GCFTIR联用分析方法研究[J].中国卫生检验杂志,2005,15(12):1415-1418.
[33]高芸,刘百战,朱晓兰,等.气相色谱-质谱法分析橡苔浸膏中的挥发性化学成分[J].色谱,2000,18(3):251-253.
[34]冒德寿,刘强,侯春,等.橡苔浸膏挥发物的固相微萃取-气相色谱/质谱法分析[J].色谱,2005,23(3):323.
[35]刘思然,董晓杰,朱英.气相色谱-质谱法检测香精香水中橡苔和树苔提取物[J].环境卫生学杂志,2016,6(6):415-419.
[36]路鑫.全二维气相色谱/飞行时间质谱用于复杂体系分析的方法学研究[D].大连:大连化学物理研究所,2004.
[37]Calvin G J.Sample dimensionality:a predictor of order-disorder in component peak distribution in multidimensional separation[J].Journal of Chromatography A,1995,703(1/2):3-15.
[2]朱晓敏,张晓军,何韶衡.化妆品中致接触性皮炎的过敏原调查分析[C]//中华医学会2009年全国变态反应学术会议论文集.北京:中华医学会,2009.
[3]Devos S A,Constandt L,Tupker R A,et al.Relevance of positive patchtest reactions to fragrance mix[J].Dermatitis,2008,19(1):43-47.
[4]王文慧,李邻峰,路雪艳.化妆品过敏的常见变应原及诊断[J].中国工业医学杂志,2006(19):223-227.
[5]刘思然,朱英.化妆品中香料的安全性及检验技术研究进展[J].中国卫生检验杂志,2017,27(9):1365-1368.
[6]中华人民共和国国家质量监督检验检疫总局.化妆品中柠檬醛、肉桂醇、茴香醇、肉桂醛和香豆素的测定气相色谱法:GB/T24800.9-2009[S].北京:中国标准出版社,2009.
[7]Alain C,Esmeralda C,Nathalie D,et al.Collaborative validation of the quantification method for suspected allergens and test of an automated data treatment[J].Journal of Chromatography A,2011,1218:7869-7877.
[8]中华人民共和国国家质量监督检验检疫总局.化妆品中十九种香料的测定气相色谱-质谱法:GB/T 24800.10-2009[S].北京:中国标准出版社,2009.
[9]王超,王星,季美琴.气相色谱-质谱法分析化妆品中16种香精香料[J].分析试验室,2006,25(11):118-122.
[10]Lamas J P,Lucia S P,Carmen G J,et al.Development of a solid phase dispersion-pressurized liquid extraction method for the analysis of suspected fragrance allergens in leave-on cosmetics[J].Journal of Chromatography A,2010,1217:8087-8094.
[11]Celeiro M,Guerra E,Lamas J P,et al.Development of a multianalyte method based on micro-matrix-solid-phase dispersion for the analysis of fragrance allergens and preservatives in personal care products[J].Journal of Chromatography A,2014,1344:1-14.
[12]Villa C,Gambaro R,Mariani E,et al.High-performance liquid chromatographic method for the simultaneous determination of 24fragrance allergens to study scented products[J].Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis,2007,44(3):755-762.
[13]席海为,马强,李强,等.高效液相色谱法对化妆品中17种致敏原的同时测定[J].分析测试学报,2010,29(1):46-50.
[14]刘威,李红娟,张帅,等.HPLC测定不同商品规格桂枝中香豆素、肉桂醇、肉桂酸、桂皮酸的含量[J].中国实验方剂学杂志,2013,19(18):134-138.
[15]李洁,王超,武婷,等.高效液相色谱法测定化妆品中三种香豆素的含量[J].日用化学工业,2006,36(4):257-259.
[16]黄善松,范忠,黄世杰,等.超高效液相色谱-串联质谱联用法测定香精香料中的香豆素和黄樟素[J].安徽农业科学,2014,42(20):6805-6806,6844.
[17]Giddings J C.Concepts and comparisons in multidimensional separation[J].Journal of High Resolution Chromatography&Chromatography Communication,1987,10(5):319-323.
[18]Giddings J C.Two-dimensional separation:concept and promise[J].Analytical Chemistry,1984,56(12):1258-1270.
[19]Glenn S F,Richard B G.Comprehensive two-dimensional gas chromatography with mass spectrometric detection(GC×GC/MS)applied to the analysis of petroleum[J].Journal of High Resolution Chromatography,1999,22(5):251-255.
[20]许泓,李淑静,何佳,等.二维色谱-质谱联用检测食品中残留物的应用[J].食品研究与开发,2013,34(6):114-120.
[21]刘百战.烟草和卷烟烟气中生物碱手性组成的多维气相色谱-质谱分析[D].合肥:中国科技大学,2009.
[22]陈玉,陆舍铭.二维气相色谱技术及其在烟草行业中的应用[J].化学分析计量,2012,21(4):98-101.
[23]Miguel H,Elena I,Alejandro C,et al.Multidimensional chromatography in food analysis[J].Journal of Chromatography A,2009,1216(43):7110-7129.
[24]Aurélien R,Elise C,Christophe P,et al.Determination of suspected fragrance allergens extended list by two-dimensional gas chromatography-mass spectrometry in ready-to-inject samples[J].Journal of Chromatography A,2015,1404:95-103.
[25]Christophe D,Nobuo O,Kikuo S,et al.Full evaporation dynamic headspace in combination with selectable one-dimensional/twodimensional gas chromatography-mass spectrometry for the determination of suspected fragrance allergens in cosmetic products[J].Journal of Chromatography A,2012,1255:207-215.
[26]李珊,郭亚勤,薛渭宏,等.二维气相色谱-质谱在香精香料分析中的应用[J].香料香精化妆品,2016(4):22-27,66.
[27]Liu Z,Philips J B.Comprehensive two-dimensional gas chromatography using an on-column thermal modulator interface[J].Journal of Chromatographic Science,1991,29(6):227-231.
[28]刘思然.化妆品中29种香料成分标注情况调查及检测方法研究[D].北京:中国疾病预防控制中心,2016.
[29]Mohamed A,Menno B,Hans-Ulrich B,et al.Comprehensive twodimensional gas chromatography coupled to a rapid-scanning quadrupole mass spectrometer:principles and applications[J].Journal of Chromatography A,2005,1067(1/2):245-254.
[30]Sgorbini B,Ruosi M R,Cordero C,et al.Quantitative determination of some volatile suspected allergens in cosmetic creams spread on skin by direct contact sorptive tape extraction-gas chromatography-mass spectrometry[J].Journal of Chromatography A,2010,1217(16):2599-2605.
[31]Niederer M,Bollhalder R,Hohl C H.Determination of fragrance allergens in cosmetics by size-exclusion chromatography followed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry[J].Journal of Chromatography A,2006,1132(1/2):109-116.
[32]蒋瑾华,陈胜,谢钧宪.化妆品中10种有害香料化合物的GCFTIR联用分析方法研究[J].中国卫生检验杂志,2005,15(12):1415-1418.
[33]高芸,刘百战,朱晓兰,等.气相色谱-质谱法分析橡苔浸膏中的挥发性化学成分[J].色谱,2000,18(3):251-253.
[34]冒德寿,刘强,侯春,等.橡苔浸膏挥发物的固相微萃取-气相色谱/质谱法分析[J].色谱,2005,23(3):323.
[35]刘思然,董晓杰,朱英.气相色谱-质谱法检测香精香水中橡苔和树苔提取物[J].环境卫生学杂志,2016,6(6):415-419.
[36]路鑫.全二维气相色谱/飞行时间质谱用于复杂体系分析的方法学研究[D].大连:大连化学物理研究所,2004.
[37]Calvin G J.Sample dimensionality:a predictor of order-disorder in component peak distribution in multidimensional separation[J].Journal of Chromatography A,1995,703(1/2):3-15.