响水近岸海域波浪特性研究
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摘要
基于响水波浪站累计一整年的现场观测资料,分析了波高和波周期的年内变化特性,研究了波浪的统计特性和波谱特性,并总结归纳了该海域各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的转换关系。结果显示:响水海域全年有效波高的变化幅度在0.10～2.80 m之间,年平均值为0.56 m;最大波高的变化幅度在0.15～5.58 m之间,年平均值为0.93 m;平均波周期的变化范围为1.91～9.02 s,年平均值为3.90 s。夏季大波高发生频率明显要小于冬、春季节,波浪季节性变化较为显著。就波高和波周期分布而言,通过拟合得出的Weibull分布较为适合本海域实测波高分布和波周期分布。波谱特性方面,本海域双峰谱占到总数的62.5%,且低频谱峰值普遍高于高频谱峰值,其中低频谱峰出现在0.04 Hz左右,高频谱峰则出现在0.15～0.20 Hz之间,分别为本海域涌浪和风浪所集中的频率区间。采用回归分析方法进一步分析了各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的关系,发现多数波参数之间存在显著的相关性,但受波浪浅水变形影响,各参数之间的比值与理论深水关系有所区别。本文的研究成果可为沿海建筑物的设计以及防灾减灾提供参考和依据。
Based on one-year field observation wave data measured in nearshore waters of Xiangshui, the variations of wave heights and periods are investigated, the statistical and spectral characteristics of waves are analyzed and the relationship among the characteristic wave heights, the characteristic wave periods and the wave spectra parameters are identified. Results show that the significant wave height varies from 0.10 m to 2.80 m with the average of 0.56 m, the maximum wave height varies from 0.15 m to 5.58 m with the average of 0.93 m and the mean wave period varies from 1.91 s to 9.02 s with the average of 3.90 s. The probability of huge waves in summer is obviously less than that in winter and spring, showing the seasonal variability. With respect to wave height and wave period distribution, the Weibull distribution works better on the distributions of measured wave height and period. In terms of wave spectrum properties, the percentage of double-peaked spectra is 62.5 during the measurement period. The spectral peak value corresponding to a lower peak frequency is generally higher than the one corresponding to a higher peak frequency, and the lower peak frequency is around 0.04 Hz, the higher peak frequency is between 0.15 Hz to 0.20 Hz, which corresponds to the frequency intervals of the sea swells and wind waves respectively. Besides, the transformations of several characteristic wave heights, characteristic wave periods and the wave spectra parameters are obtained by linear regression analysis, and strong correlations between them are found, however, due to the wave deformation in shallow water, these ratio coefficients are different from those ones in deep water. The research results of this paper could serve as reference and guidance for the design of coastal structures as well as for disaster prevention and mitigation.
Based on one-year field observation wave data measured in nearshore waters of Xiangshui, the variations of wave heights and periods are investigated, the statistical and spectral characteristics of waves are analyzed and the relationship among the characteristic wave heights, the characteristic wave periods and the wave spectra parameters are identified. Results show that the significant wave height varies from 0.10 m to 2.80 m with the average of 0.56 m, the maximum wave height varies from 0.15 m to 5.58 m with the average of 0.93 m and the mean wave period varies from 1.91 s to 9.02 s with the average of 3.90 s. The probability of huge waves in summer is obviously less than that in winter and spring, showing the seasonal variability. With respect to wave height and wave period distribution, the Weibull distribution works better on the distributions of measured wave height and period. In terms of wave spectrum properties, the percentage of double-peaked spectra is 62.5 during the measurement period. The spectral peak value corresponding to a lower peak frequency is generally higher than the one corresponding to a higher peak frequency, and the lower peak frequency is around 0.04 Hz, the higher peak frequency is between 0.15 Hz to 0.20 Hz, which corresponds to the frequency intervals of the sea swells and wind waves respectively. Besides, the transformations of several characteristic wave heights, characteristic wave periods and the wave spectra parameters are obtained by linear regression analysis, and strong correlations between them are found, however, due to the wave deformation in shallow water, these ratio coefficients are different from those ones in deep water. The research results of this paper could serve as reference and guidance for the design of coastal structures as well as for disaster prevention and mitigation.
引文
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[17] Goda Y.Random Seas and Design of Maritime Structures[M].2nd ed.Singapore:World Scientific,2000:732.
[18] Bretschneider C L.Wave variability and wave spectra for wind generated gravity waves[D].Texas:Texas A&M University,1959.
[19] Longuet-Higgins M S.On the joint distribution of the periods and amplitudes of sea waves[J].Journal of Geophysical Research,1975,80(18):2688-2694.
[20] 孙孚.海浪周期与波高的联合分布[J].海洋学报,1988,10(1):10-15.Sun Fu.Distributions of wave heights and periods of sea waves[J].Haiyang Xuebao,1988,10(1):10-15.
[21] 杨正己,贺辉华,高正荣.赤湾港波浪的统计分布及谱分析[J].水运工程,1986(12):5-10.Yang Zhengji,He Huihua,Gao Zhengrong.Statistical distribution and spectral analysis of waves in Chiwan port[J].Port & Waterway Engineering,1986(12):5-10.
[22] Goda Y,Nagai Y.Investigation and analysis of statistical characteristics of waves[J].Report of the Port & Harbour Research Institute,1974,13(1):3-37.
[23] 葛明达.连云港波高波周期统计分布[J].海洋工程,1984(1):40-50.Ge Mingda.Distributions of wave heights and periods in Lianyun Harbour[J].The Ocean Engineering,1984(1):40-50.
[24] Longuet-Higgins M S.On the joint distribution of wave periods and amplitudes in a random wave field[J].Proceedings of the Royal Society A:Mathematical,Physical and Engineering Sciences,1983,389(1797):241-258.
[25] Goda Y.Revisiting Wilson’s formulas for simplified wind-wave prediction[J].Journal of Waterway,Port,Coastal,and Ocean Engineering,2003,129(2):93-95.
[26] Goda Y.A review on statistical interpretation of wave data[R].Report of the Port & Harbour Research Institute,1979,8:5-32.
[27] Cartwright D E,Longuet-Higgins M S.The statistical distribution of the maxima of a random function[J].Proceedings of the Royal Society A:Mathematical,Physical and Engineering Sciences,1956,237(1209):212-232.
[2] Vandever J P,Siegel E M,Brubaker J M,et al.Influence of spectral width on wave height parameter estimates in coastal environments[J].Journal of Waterway,Port,Coastal,and Ocean Engineering,2008,134(3):187-194.
[3] Suh K D,Kwon H D,Lee D Y.Some statistical characteristics of large deepwater waves around the Korean Peninsula[J].Coastal Engineering,2010,57(4):375-384.
[4] 杨正己.风浪的统计性质及谱分析[J].水利水运科学研究,1985(3):81-98.Yang Zhengji.Statistical properties and spectral analyses of wind waves[J].Hydro-Science and Engineering,1985(3):81-98.
[5] 高正荣.吕泗地区浅水风浪分布以及谱分析[J].海岸工程,1995,14(2):1-8.Gao Zhengrong.Analysis of shallow wind-wave distribution and spectrum in Dusi[J].Coastal Engineering,1995,14(2):1-8.
[6] Yang Bin,Feng Weibing,Zhang Yu.Wave characteristics at the south part of the radial sand ridges of the Southern Yellow Sea[J].China Ocean Engineering,2014,28(3):317-330.
[7] Feng W B,Zhang Y,Peng X L,et al.Statistical Study of Wind Waves for China South Yellow Sea[M] //The 5th International Conference on Asian and Pacific Coasts.Singapore:World Scientific,2009:193-200.
[8] 陈上及,马继瑞.海洋数据处理分析方法及其应用[M].北京:海洋出版社,1991:62-63.Chen Shangji,Ma Jirui.Methods for Processing and Analysis of Marine Data and its Application[M].Beijing:China Ocean Press,1991:62-63.
[9] Longuet-Higgins M S.On the statistical distribution of the heights of sea waves[J].Journal of Marine Research,1952,11(3):245-266.
[10] Forristall G Z.On the statistical distribution of wave heights in a storm[J].Journal of Geophysical Research:Oceans,1978,83(C5):2353-2358.
[11] Глуховский Б Х.Исследование морского ветрового волнения[M].Ленинград:Гидрометеорологическое изд-во,1966.
[12] 张炳根,沈毓毅.关于海浪分布的一种非正态模式[J].山东海洋学院学报,1979(1):44-48.Zhang Binggen,Shen Yuyi.Non-normal distribution of sea waves[J].Periodical of Ocean University of China,1979(1):44-48.
[13] Bitner E M.Non-linear effects of the statistical model of shallow-water wind waves[J].Applied Ocean Research,1980,2(2):63-73.
[14] 侯一筠.非线性海浪波面与波高的统计分布[J].海洋与湖沼,1990,21(5):425-432.Hou Yijun.The statistical distributions of surface elevation and wave height of nonlinear sea waves[J].Oceanologia et Limnolohia Sinica,1990,21(5):425-432.
[15] 杨正己,贺辉华.连云港风浪谱分析[J].海洋工程,1984(3):46-58.Yang Zhengji,He Huihua.The wind wave spectrum in Lianyun Harbour[J].The Ocean Engineering,1984(3):46-58.
[16] 俞聿修,柳淑学.石臼港海浪的统计特征和谱[J].港工技术,1989(2):12-22.Yu Yuxiu,Liu Shuxue.Statistical characteristics and wave spectrum of sea waves in Shijiu port[J].Port Engineering Technology,1989(2):12-22.
[17] Goda Y.Random Seas and Design of Maritime Structures[M].2nd ed.Singapore:World Scientific,2000:732.
[18] Bretschneider C L.Wave variability and wave spectra for wind generated gravity waves[D].Texas:Texas A&M University,1959.
[19] Longuet-Higgins M S.On the joint distribution of the periods and amplitudes of sea waves[J].Journal of Geophysical Research,1975,80(18):2688-2694.
[20] 孙孚.海浪周期与波高的联合分布[J].海洋学报,1988,10(1):10-15.Sun Fu.Distributions of wave heights and periods of sea waves[J].Haiyang Xuebao,1988,10(1):10-15.
[21] 杨正己,贺辉华,高正荣.赤湾港波浪的统计分布及谱分析[J].水运工程,1986(12):5-10.Yang Zhengji,He Huihua,Gao Zhengrong.Statistical distribution and spectral analysis of waves in Chiwan port[J].Port & Waterway Engineering,1986(12):5-10.
[22] Goda Y,Nagai Y.Investigation and analysis of statistical characteristics of waves[J].Report of the Port & Harbour Research Institute,1974,13(1):3-37.
[23] 葛明达.连云港波高波周期统计分布[J].海洋工程,1984(1):40-50.Ge Mingda.Distributions of wave heights and periods in Lianyun Harbour[J].The Ocean Engineering,1984(1):40-50.
[24] Longuet-Higgins M S.On the joint distribution of wave periods and amplitudes in a random wave field[J].Proceedings of the Royal Society A:Mathematical,Physical and Engineering Sciences,1983,389(1797):241-258.
[25] Goda Y.Revisiting Wilson’s formulas for simplified wind-wave prediction[J].Journal of Waterway,Port,Coastal,and Ocean Engineering,2003,129(2):93-95.
[26] Goda Y.A review on statistical interpretation of wave data[R].Report of the Port & Harbour Research Institute,1979,8:5-32.
[27] Cartwright D E,Longuet-Higgins M S.The statistical distribution of the maxima of a random function[J].Proceedings of the Royal Society A:Mathematical,Physical and Engineering Sciences,1956,237(1209):212-232.