波浪在珊瑚岸礁礁坪上传播变形的数值研究
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摘要
波浪的传播变形对珊瑚岛礁附近的营养物质输送以及近岸珊瑚沙运动都起着关键的作用,同时也是礁盘顶部建筑物在设计和施工过程中需要重点考虑的因素,因此,对波浪在礁坪上的传播变形进行研究具有重要意义。利用FUNWAVE 2.0数值模型模拟了不规则波浪在不同形状岸礁上的传播变形过程,讨论了礁前斜坡坡度以及珊瑚底面粗糙程度对波浪在礁坪上传播变形的影响。结果显示,随着礁坡斜率增大,不对称度参数绝对值的增长趋势逐渐变缓,波浪在光滑礁坪上的不对称度绝对值要略大于粗糙底面上的值,而不同地形下计算得到的波浪偏度参数则基本相同。说明礁坡坡度对波浪的不对称度特征具有显著影响,礁坪粗糙度的影响则相对较小,而上述因素对波浪偏度的影响则完全可以忽略。给出了考虑这两个影响因素的礁坪区域内波浪偏度和不对称度经验公式。
The evolution of wave shapes on fringing reefs is closely related to nearshore nutrient delivery and sediment transport of coral sand. It also plays a crucial role in determining the design and construction of the structure on the reef flat. Therefore,investigating the evolutions of wave shapes on the reef flat is necessary. In this paper,the FUNWAVE 2. 0 numerical model was employed to simulate irregular waves,which propagate over different types of fringing reefs,and the influence of forereef bottom slope and reef roughness on the evolution of wave shapes was discussed. Results showed that an increase in the absolute value of wave asymmetry is moderated by the slope of the forereef bottom becoming steeper. Moreover,the absolute value of asymmetry for the smooth bed condition is slightly larger than that for the rough bed condition. However,the wave skewness on different fringing reefs is almost the same. This indicates that the forereef bottom slope significantly influences wave asymmetry variation and the effect of reef roughness is relatively small. However,the abovementioned factors have a negligible effect on the wave skewness. In conclusion,the empirical formulae for wave skewness and wave asymmetry on the reef flat by combining the influence of forereef bottom slope and reef roughness are recommended.
The evolution of wave shapes on fringing reefs is closely related to nearshore nutrient delivery and sediment transport of coral sand. It also plays a crucial role in determining the design and construction of the structure on the reef flat. Therefore,investigating the evolutions of wave shapes on the reef flat is necessary. In this paper,the FUNWAVE 2. 0 numerical model was employed to simulate irregular waves,which propagate over different types of fringing reefs,and the influence of forereef bottom slope and reef roughness on the evolution of wave shapes was discussed. Results showed that an increase in the absolute value of wave asymmetry is moderated by the slope of the forereef bottom becoming steeper. Moreover,the absolute value of asymmetry for the smooth bed condition is slightly larger than that for the rough bed condition. However,the wave skewness on different fringing reefs is almost the same. This indicates that the forereef bottom slope significantly influences wave asymmetry variation and the effect of reef roughness is relatively small. However,the abovementioned factors have a negligible effect on the wave skewness. In conclusion,the empirical formulae for wave skewness and wave asymmetry on the reef flat by combining the influence of forereef bottom slope and reef roughness are recommended.
引文
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[2]MA G,SU S F,LIU S,et al.Numerical simulation of infragravity waves in fringing reefs using a shock-capturing non-hydrostatic model[J].Ocean Engineering,2014,85(3):54-64.
[3]梅弢,高峰.波浪在珊瑚礁坪上传播的水槽试验研究[J].水道港口,2013,34(1):13-18.(MEI T,GAO F.Flume experiment research on law of wave propagation in reef[J].Journal of Waterway and Harbor,2013,34(1):13-18.(in Chinese))
[4]赵子丹,张庆河.波浪在珊瑚礁及台阶式地形上的传播[J].海洋通报,1995,14(4):1-10.(ZHAO Z D,ZHANG Q H.Wave transformation on coral reefs and submerged steps[J].Marine Science Bulletin,1995,14(4):1-10.(in Chinese))
[5]CHERITON O M,STORLAZZI C D,ROSENBERGER K J.Observations of wave transformation over a fringing coral reef and the importance of low-frequency waves and offshore water levels to runup,overwash,and coastal flooding[J].Journal of Geophysical Research:Oceans,2016,121(5):3121-3140.
[6]FILIPOT J F,CHEUNG K F.Spectral wave modeling in fringing reef environments[J].Coastal Engineering,2012,67(3):67-79.
[7]NWOGU O,DEMIRBILEK Z.Infragravity wave motions and runup over shallow fringing reefs[J].Journal of Waterway Port Coastal&Ocean Engineering,2010,136(6):295-305.
[8]YAO Y,HUANG Z,MONISMITH S G,et al.1DH Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation over fringing reefs[J].Ocean Engineering,2012,47(2):30-42.
[9]SU S F,MA G,HSU T W.Boussinesq modeling of spatial variability of infragravity waves on fringing reefs[J].Ocean Engineering,2015,101:78-92.
[10]黎满球,朱良生,隋世峰.珊瑚礁坪波浪的衰减特性分析[J].海洋工程,2003,21(2):71-75.(LI M Q,ZHU L S,SUI S F.Characteristics os wave attention on the coral reef[J].The Ocean Engineering,2003,21(2):71-75.(in Chinese))
[11]柳淑学,刘宁,李金宣,等.波浪在珊瑚礁地形上破碎特性试验研究[J].海洋工程,2015,33(2):42-49.(LIU S X,LIU N,LI J X,et al.Experiment research on wave propagation characteristics on reefs terrain[J].The Ocean Engineering,2015,33(2):42-49.(in Chinese))
[12]姚宇,袁万成,杜睿超,等.岸礁礁冠对波浪传播变形及增水影响的实验研究[J].热带海洋学报,2015,34(6):19-25.(YAO Y,YUAN W C,DU R C,et al.Experimental study of reef crest's effects on wave transformation and wave-induced setup over fringing reefs[J].Journal of Tropical Oceanography,2015,34(6):19-25.(in Chinese))
[13]姚宇,杜睿超,袁万成,等.珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化实验研究[J].海洋学报,2015,37(12):66-73.(YAO Y,DU R C,YUAN W C,et al.Experimental study of wave transformation around the surf zone over fringing reefs[J].Acta Oceanologica Sinica,2015,37(12):66-73.(in Chinese))
[14]张弛,郑金海,王义刚.波浪作用下沙坝剖面形成过程的数值模拟[J].水科学进展,2012,23(1):104-109.(ZHANG C,ZHENG J H,WANG Y G.Numerical simulation of wave-induced sandbar formation[J].Advances in Water Science,2012,23(1):104-109.(in Chinese)
[15]CHEN Q,KIRBY J T,DALRYMPLR R A,et al.Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation,breaking and runup:part 2:two horizontal dimensions[J].Journal of Waterway,Port,Coastal and Ocean Engineering,2000,126(1):48-56.
[16]SMITH E R,HESSER T J,SMITH J M.Two-and three-dimensional laboratory studies of wave breaking,dissipation,setup,and runup on reefs,erdc/chl tr-12-21[R].Vicksburg:US Army Engineer Research and Development Center,2012.
[17]邹志利.海岸动力学[M].北京:人民交通出版社,2009:112-113.(ZOU Z L.Coastal hydrodynamics[M].Beijing:China Communications Press,2009:112-113.(in Chinese))