罗衤圭徐转红袖扬——关于古代袿衣的几个问题
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摘要
现有关于袿衣的研究多停留在对于袿衣上"纖"与"髾"的阐释中,缺乏对于袿衣起源、发展及形制演变的论述。文章通过对于文献的梳理,指出汉代袿衣源自周礼的"三翟"遗俗,并依据考古中的图像,将袿衣分为"袍制袿衣"和"襦裙制袿衣"两种。汉代流行的是"袍制袿衣",魏晋南北朝流行的是"襦裙制袿衣",袿衣形制的转变符合东汉晚期袍服式微,魏晋南北朝时期襦裙渐成主流的历史趋势。另外,文章指出顾恺之笔下的袿衣女性影响了魏晋南北朝时期袿衣图像的表现,在南北朝晚期画师们的艺术加工下,袿衣逐渐进入了神仙造像系统。
The researches about GUIYI( a kind of female dress) mostly focus on the explanation of "XIAN"and"SHAO",and lack discussions about GUIYI origin,development and form evolution. Based on literature review,this paper indicates that GUIYI in Han dynasty originated from Zhou's "SANDI( The queen dresses In the Zhou dynasty) "custom. According to the images in Archaeology,GUIYI is divided into GUIPAO and RUQUN. GUIPAO was popular in Han dynasty,while RUQUN was popular in The Wei,Jin and Northern and Southern dynasties. The change of GUIYI style conforms to the historical trend that at the end of the Eastern Han dynasty,with the decline of GUIPAO,RUQUN system gradually became the mainstream. The article also points out that GUIYI women in GU Kaizhi's painting influenced Guiyi images in Wei,JIN and Northern and Southern dynasties. Under the artistic transformation of the painters in the late Northern and Southern dynasties,GUIYI gradually entered the immortal statue system.
The researches about GUIYI( a kind of female dress) mostly focus on the explanation of "XIAN"and"SHAO",and lack discussions about GUIYI origin,development and form evolution. Based on literature review,this paper indicates that GUIYI in Han dynasty originated from Zhou's "SANDI( The queen dresses In the Zhou dynasty) "custom. According to the images in Archaeology,GUIYI is divided into GUIPAO and RUQUN. GUIPAO was popular in Han dynasty,while RUQUN was popular in The Wei,Jin and Northern and Southern dynasties. The change of GUIYI style conforms to the historical trend that at the end of the Eastern Han dynasty,with the decline of GUIPAO,RUQUN system gradually became the mainstream. The article also points out that GUIYI women in GU Kaizhi's painting influenced Guiyi images in Wei,JIN and Northern and Southern dynasties. Under the artistic transformation of the painters in the late Northern and Southern dynasties,GUIYI gradually entered the immortal statue system.
引文
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[12]杨晶晶.中国人物绘画发展史上的里程碑:论顾恺之人物画“衣纹程式”的确立[J].艺术探索,2009,23(2):26-27.YANG Jingjing.Chinese figure painting in the history of the development of figure painting:on establishment of GU figure painting established the lines of clothes[J].Arts Exploration,2009,23(2):26-27.
[2]周汛,高春明.中国历代妇女妆饰[M].上海:学林出版社,1988:202-203.ZHOU Xun,GAO Chunming.China Ancient Women Adornment[M].Shanghai:XUE Lin Press,1988:202-203.
[3]周汛,高春明.中国历代服饰[M].上海:学林出版社,1984:77.ZHOU Xun,GAO Chunming.Clothing of Chinese Generations[M].Shanghai:XUE Lin Press,1984:77.
[4]李学勤.十三经注疏.周礼注疏[M].北京:北京大学出版社,1999.LI Xueqin.The Thirteen Classics.Zhou Li Shu Note[M].Beijing:Peking University press,1999.
[5]周南泉.论中国古代的圭:古玉研究之三[J].故宫博物院院刊,1992(3):14.ZHOU Nanquan.On ancient Chinese GUI:the third study of ancient jade[J].Palace Museum Journal,1992(3):14.
[6]包铭新.西域异服-丝绸之路出土古代服饰复原研究[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2007.BAO Mingxin.Western Regional Costume,Research on the Restoration of Ancient Costumes on the Silk Road[M].Shanghai:Donghua University Press,2007.
[7]陈振裕.湖北云梦西汉墓发掘简报[J].文物,1973(9):31.CHEN Zhenyu.Brief excavation of the western Han tomb in Hubei Yunmeng[J].Cultural Relics,1973(9):31.
[8]班固.汉书补注[M].上海:上海古籍出版社,2008:3574.BAN Gu.Notes for the Book of Han[M].Shanghai:Shanghai Ancient Books Publishing Press,2008:3574.
[9]班固.后汉书[M].济南:山东画报出版社,2013:56.BAN Gu.History of the Latter-Han Dynasty[M].Ji’nan:Shandong Pictorial Press,2013:56.
[10]扬之水.北魏出土司马金龙墓出土屏风发微[J].中国典籍与文化,2005(3):34-45.YANG Zhishui.The northern Wei dynasty unearthed from the tomb of Sima Jinlong on the screen[J].Chinese Classics and Culture,2005(3):34-45.
[11]刘建华.东晋顾恺之画风与北朝前期画风之比较[J].文物春秋,1999(1):26-27.LIU Jianhua.Comparison of painting style in the eastern Jin dynasty and painting style in northern dynasty[J].Cultural Relics Age,1999(1):26-27.
[12]杨晶晶.中国人物绘画发展史上的里程碑:论顾恺之人物画“衣纹程式”的确立[J].艺术探索,2009,23(2):26-27.YANG Jingjing.Chinese figure painting in the history of the development of figure painting:on establishment of GU figure painting established the lines of clothes[J].Arts Exploration,2009,23(2):26-27.