图像“更衣记”——《上海漫画》中服饰图像的叙事解读(1928～1930)
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摘要
以《上海漫画》中的历史图像及文字说明为依据,结合其他文献资料的辨析,从图像叙事学的角度分析和探讨了1928～1930年间女性服饰发展的轨迹、款式变迁的主要特征以及近代服饰历史研究中值得商榷的一些问题。并以具体的案例提出了在服饰研究中以图叙史、以图证史的解读范式以及必要性。
Based on the historical images and text explanations in Shanghai Comics and other literature materials, from the perspective of image narratology, this paper analysed and discussed the development track and style changes of women's clothing between 1928 and 1930, as well as some issues worth discussing in the study of modern clothing history. Via specific cases, this paper proposed the method and necessity of describing history with pictures and proving history with pictures in costume research.
Based on the historical images and text explanations in Shanghai Comics and other literature materials, from the perspective of image narratology, this paper analysed and discussed the development track and style changes of women's clothing between 1928 and 1930, as well as some issues worth discussing in the study of modern clothing history. Via specific cases, this paper proposed the method and necessity of describing history with pictures and proving history with pictures in costume research.
引文
[1]屠诗聘.旗袍的旋律[J].良友,1940(总第150期):60-61.TU Shi-ying.The Melody of Cheongsam[J].Good Friend1940(total 150th issues):60-61.
[2]权伯华.清季时候的妆饰[M]//先施公司二十五年纪念册.二十五年来中国各大都会妆饰谈(清光绪二十五年至民国十三年).香港:先施公司,1924:286-287.Quan Bohua.Decoration in the Qing Dynasty[M]//the twenty-five-year anniversary of Xianshi Company.Decoration talks in major Chinese cities in the past 25years(from the twenty-fifth year of Qing Guangxu to the thirteenth year of the Republic of China).Hong Kong:Xianshi Company,1924:286-287.
[3]景庶蓬.近数十年来中国男女装饰变迁大势[A].清末民初中国各大都会男女装饰论集[C].台北:中国政经研究所,1972:20.JING Shu-peng.The General Trend of Chinese Men and Women's Decoration Changes in Recent Decades[A].Collection of Chinese metropolitan men and women's decoration at the end of Qing Dynasty and the beginning of Republic of China[C].Taipei:China Institute of Politics and Economics,1972:20.
[4]叶浅予.最近上海舞女装束一斑[J].上海漫画,1929(42):2-3.YE Qian-yu.Shanghai Dancers'Dress Recently[J].Shanghai Comics,1929(42):2-3.
[5]包铭新.20世纪上半叶的海派旗袍[J].装饰.2000(10):11-12.BAO Ming-xin.The Shanghai Style Cheongsam in the first half of the 20 century[J].Art and Design,2000(10):11-12.
[6]曹聚仁.京派与海派[J].申报·自由谈.1934.1.7.CAO Ju-ren.Beijing School and Shanghai School[J].Shenbao.free talk about.1934.1.7.
(1)按正常的规律,刊物刊发的摄影图像,其拍摄日期一般都早于刊发日期,因拍摄时间不详,本文暂以刊发时间作为考察时间点。
[2]权伯华.清季时候的妆饰[M]//先施公司二十五年纪念册.二十五年来中国各大都会妆饰谈(清光绪二十五年至民国十三年).香港:先施公司,1924:286-287.Quan Bohua.Decoration in the Qing Dynasty[M]//the twenty-five-year anniversary of Xianshi Company.Decoration talks in major Chinese cities in the past 25years(from the twenty-fifth year of Qing Guangxu to the thirteenth year of the Republic of China).Hong Kong:Xianshi Company,1924:286-287.
[3]景庶蓬.近数十年来中国男女装饰变迁大势[A].清末民初中国各大都会男女装饰论集[C].台北:中国政经研究所,1972:20.JING Shu-peng.The General Trend of Chinese Men and Women's Decoration Changes in Recent Decades[A].Collection of Chinese metropolitan men and women's decoration at the end of Qing Dynasty and the beginning of Republic of China[C].Taipei:China Institute of Politics and Economics,1972:20.
[4]叶浅予.最近上海舞女装束一斑[J].上海漫画,1929(42):2-3.YE Qian-yu.Shanghai Dancers'Dress Recently[J].Shanghai Comics,1929(42):2-3.
[5]包铭新.20世纪上半叶的海派旗袍[J].装饰.2000(10):11-12.BAO Ming-xin.The Shanghai Style Cheongsam in the first half of the 20 century[J].Art and Design,2000(10):11-12.
[6]曹聚仁.京派与海派[J].申报·自由谈.1934.1.7.CAO Ju-ren.Beijing School and Shanghai School[J].Shenbao.free talk about.1934.1.7.
(1)按正常的规律,刊物刊发的摄影图像,其拍摄日期一般都早于刊发日期,因拍摄时间不详,本文暂以刊发时间作为考察时间点。