服装廓体松量与面料力学性能相关性及其预测模型的研究
|
摘要
人体和服装之间的关系较为复杂和模糊,但其是服装合体性、三维虚拟和防火服安全性的基础研究。本论文主要从工程设计角度根据服装的合体性、舒适性研究面料力学性能与服装空间松量的配伍关系,为虚拟服装着装廓体外观效果的客观评价确定理论基础。具体的研究工作与思路概括如下:
(1)人体与服装廓体松量的数学算法的建立
分析了使用[TC]~2扫描仪作为实验手段,获取各种截面的点云数据或曲线数据的几何算法,以及利用人体表面数据点的重新采样方法。采用重新采样法(等角法)获取所需特征截面的坐标点,并读取这些点的坐标值。利用最小二乘法和三次多项式分段拟合不同部位截面的曲线,建立人体与服装间法线距离和射线距离的算法模型。通过计算人体截面任意角度人体与服装间的法线距离和射线距离,讨论了人体与服装松量用法线距离指标比射线距离指标更合理,从而确定法线距离为人体与服装之间的距离松量。同时根据弧长等分建立面积的算法模型,用VB语言编写程序,以读取人体任意角度的距离松量和面积松量,并将人体与服装之间的距离松量和面积松量定义为服装廓体松量。
根据服装平面制图的关键部位规格确定截取人体与服装的特征截面,胸围线以上的截面:肩宽、胸宽和背宽截面;胸围线以下的截面:胸围、腰围和臀围截面。分析研究得到胸围线以上截面人体与服装之间的距离松量较小,受服装放松量的影响不大,研究这些截面没法找寻影响服装廓体松量的主要因素。而胸围线以下的截面受服装放松量的影响很大,从而将其作为特征截面进行研究,分析影响服装廓体松量的主要因素。
计算与分析特征截面人体不同角度的距离松量,总结了人体与同一款式不同放松量服装之间距离松量的分怖关系,表明距离松量不是随服装放松量均匀变化的,而是有一定的变化规律,并根据特定角度拟合了距离松量与放松量之间变化规律的曲线方程。
距离松量在不同的特征截面其变化规律不同,在胸围截面:距离松量在人体的后背处θ=120°～135°较小,在人体的胸高点处θ=240°最小,人体后面的距离松量基本大于前面的量,距离松量主要集中在θ=150°～210°之间。由于胳膊的原因,形成了波幅分别处于θ=165°和θ=195°,波谷处于θ=180°的波形图形;在腰围截面:距离松量不是均匀分布的,人体侧面部位即θ=165°～210°的量最大。在臀围截面:距离松量在后中心处θ=90°、人体的侧面θ=150°～195°以及前中心处θ=270°的量较少,在人体前面距离松量大于后面的量,且最大量集中在实验服前、后片公主线处,形成以公主线位置为波幅的波浪形状。
计算与分析特征截面人体与不同放松量服装间面积松量,其变化规律与距离松量相同,但更能表述细节的变化:对于胸围截面,侧面面积松量与服装胸围放松量存在线性关系;对于腰围截面,前、后面积松量总和以及侧面面积松量分别与服装腰围放松量存在一元二次回归关系,并可以将侧面面积松量占总面积松量70%的比例作为评价服装廓体外观效果很好的面积指标;对于臀围截面,面积松量主要集中在人体前面。
(2)影响服装廓体松量的主要相关因素的确定
测试31种面料的17种物理力学性能,采用聚类方法将其分为6类,从6类中分别挑选1种作为样衣的面料;在10件实验服的平面纸样中选择6个作为样衣样版,分别用选定的6种面料制作36件样衣。对36件样衣进行三维扫描,获取人台和样衣的点云数据,计算特征截面计算廓体松量,分析廓体松量由于面料物理力学性能不同和规格不同所导致的分怖规律变化。采用逐步回归得出影响不同截面、不同角度距离松量和面积松量的最主要因素。
胸截面各角度的距离松量受面料力学性能影响不大,在165°和195°波幅处是随着△B而呈线性变化,△B越大,距离松量越大。由于胸部和肩胛骨的隆起,人体前面和后面部分在胸截面与服装的面积松量相对是固定不变的,不受△B和面料物理力学性能的影响。影响人体侧面部分面积松量的主要因素为△B、1gw以及lg2HB,其中影响因素最大的是△B。
腰截面各角度距离松量受△B和△W影响较大,而受面料物理力学性能影响较小。影响人体后面和侧面部分面积松量的最主要因素是△W,而影响人体前面部分面积松量的最主要因素是△W和lg2HG5。
臀截面90°～120°的距离松量主要受2HG和F的影响,225°～270°主要受lg2HB的影响。影响人体后面部分面积松量最主要因素是2HG,影响人体侧面部分的最主要因素是△H和1gw,影响人体前面部分的最主要因素是面料的△H、2HG和F。
胸部、腰部前分割线处于人体角度变化不大,臀部位置的角度变化也是有规律的,臀部前分割线角度和G、2HG及1gw相关性较为显著,而与其他性能无相关性,特别是与△B、△W、△H无关。通过逐步回归影响臀部前分割线的最主要因素是1gw(面料重量)。
(3)服装着装廓体外观效果的客观评价与预测模型的提出
通过Friedman检验7名专家对服装着装廓体外观效果的主观评价具有一致性;设定腰围侧面面积占据总面积比例区间对服装进行客观外观效果评价,通过Spearman秩位相关系数检验法得出主观评价与客观评价的一致性,即将腰围侧面面积占总腰围面积比例区间作为检验服装着装廓体外观效果的客观指标是可行的。
对同规格、同面料的服装着装客观效果值与其相对应标准值的差值进行分析,服装放松量是影响服装着装廓体外观效果的主要因素,当服装的放松量达到一定程度时,面料力学性能对服装外观效果影响较小,只要根据具有很好外观效果样版制作的样衣,不会因为面料力学性能不同而对服装外观效果有很大的改变。然而,服装放松量越小,则面料力学性能对服装外观效果的影响越大,若要取得较好的外观效果则需要选择2HG较小的面料。同时因为服装放松量小,服装与人体之间的空隙小,则需要根据人体形状对样衣进行补正,从而修改样版,使得具有不同力学性能的服装都具有很好的着装外观效果。
建立了着装廓体外观客观效果值的多元回归模型和BP神经网络模型,通过预测检验,神经网络预测的值比多元回归预测的值与实测值更接近,说明神经网络预测模型比多元回归预测模型更精确。
根据OpenGL软件曲面显示的原理将点数据显示为曲面形状,从而显示人台和服装三维虚拟着装廓体外观图像,由于面料力学性能不一致,所以着装廓体外观效果有很大的区别。
构建了可视化的虚拟着装廓体外观效果预测系统,可以根据已知的面料物理力学性能、成品规格对服装着装廓体的外观效果进行评判,得到相应服装着装廓体外观效果的信息:①、着装廓体外观效果值;②、着装廓体外观效果评判结果以及样衣试穿、样版修改的必要性判别;③、最接近的三维虚拟着装廓体外观效果图。通过检验样衣对系统进行了检验,证实了预测系统具有一定的可靠性。
Although the relation between human body and garment is complex and vague,it is the basic study of garment fitting,three-dimensional virtual and fireproof garment security.This paper confirmed the basis of the theory of an objective evaluation for the virtual garment profile appearance from the engineering point of view based on the garment fitting,comfort and study of the combined relationship between material mechanical properties and garment ease capacity.The main works and approach in the study can be outlined as following.
(1) Establishing mathematical algorithms of the ease between the body and the garment
Dot cloud data of variety of sections or geometry algorithm of curve data was captured by using [TC]~2 scanner and body surface data points re-sampling methods.This paper obtained the coordinates of required characteristic section by use of re-sampling method(Conformal method), then established algorithm models of distance between body and garment both in normal and radial directions by using least squares and cubic polynomial approximation to fit curves of different sections,and confirmed the normal distance as the distance between human body and garment.Meanwhile,in accordance with the even arc-length the algorithm model of area ease was built.This paper used VB programming language to get distance ease and area ease with any angle, and defined these distance ease and area ease between body and garment as the garment profile ease.
By calculating the normal and radial distance between body and garment at any random body sections angle,this paper found that the normal distance was more reasonable for body and garment ease than the radial distance.This was mainly because normal distance was the shortest from body to garment and it is the normal offset value in 3D virtual garment..
According to the important part spec of garment plane cartography,characteristic sections of human body and garment were obtained,and sections above bust line were:shoulder width,bust width and back width section,sections under bust line were bust-full,waist-full and hip-full section.Analysis showed that distance between sections above bust line and garment was much shorter and less affected by garment ease,and research on these sections rarely helped to look for the main factors affecting the garment profile ease.On the contrary,sections under bust line were influenced by garment ease,and this paper studied these sections and analyzed main factors affecting the garment profile ease.
This paper calculated and analyzed the distance ease of characteristic sections with different body angles,summed up the distance ease distribution relation between body and variety clothing sizes within the same garment style.The study showed that change of distance ease had certain change rules rather than evenly following the garment ease change,curve equation of change rules between distance ease and garment ease was been fitted according to certain angle.
Distance ease in different sections had different change rules,for bust-full section,distance ease were smaller in back whenθwas from 120°to 135°,and the smallest in bust point whenθwas 240°.Distance ease in the back was bigger than in the front basically,and the most of the distance ease existed whenθwas between 150°to 210°.Because of arms,wave figure had amplitude whenθwas 165°or 195°,trough whenθwas 135°.As for waist-full section,distance ease distributed unevenly and got the biggest in the side whenθwas from 165°to 210°.In hip-full section, distance ease was much smaller in back whenθwas 90°and in the side whenθwas from 150°to 195°.In the front center whenθwas 270°,the distance ease was bigger than in back and besides. The most of the distance ease was in the princess line and formed a wave figure which had amplitude of the princess line position.
By calculating and analyzing the area ease between body and garment with different clothing size,we found its change rule was similar with the distance ease,but was more useful for showing the details' change.For bust-full section,there was linear relation between area ease in the side and garment ease,and for waist-full section,there was quadratic equation between clothing sizes and area ease in the side,and summation area ease including the front and back.Besides,the proportion of area ease in the side took 70%of the total area ease could be used as area evaluation of garment-profile appearance.As for hip-full section,area ease was mainly in the front.
(2) Ascertaining the main correlation factors which affect the garment-profile ease
Seventeen mechanical properties of 31 different material had been tested,these material were classified as 6 species by using Cluster analysis,and one fabric of each species was selected as the sample coat fabric.Six patterns were selected as the sample jackets patterns from ten experimental patterns,so 36 jackets were made using the 6 selected material.By scanning these 36 sample jackets,we got the dot cloud data of model and sample jackets,obtained characteristic section, calculated garment-profile ease,analyzed the change of garment-profile ease distribution rule caused by different material mechanical properties and specs.The primary factors which affected different sections,distance ease and area ease in different angles were obtained by using step-by-step regression.
Distance ease in bust section with different angle was almost not affected by material mechanical properties,whenθwas between 165°and 195°,distance ease was in a linear change along with the change of△B,the bigger△B was,the bigger distance ease was.Bust section area ease were comparatively invariable in the front and back of human body due to the chest and scapular bone,and it also did not affected by△B and material mechanical properties.△B,lgw and lg2HB were main factors which affected the area ease in the side of body..
Distance ease in waist section within different angle was significantly affected by△B and△W,little affected by material mechanical properties.△W was the main factor which affected the area ease in the back and side of human body while△W and lg2HB5 were the main factors witch affected the area ease in the front of human body.
Distance ease in hip section was significantly affected by 2HG and F whenθwas between 90°and 120°,and affected by lg2HB whenθwas between 225°and 270°.2HG was the main factor to affect the area ease in the back of human body;△H and lgw were the main factors to affect the area ease in the side of human body and△H,2HG and F were to the front.
The angles in front bust and waist partition lines changed slightly while angles in hip had an orderly change.The partition lines in front of hip had significant correlation with G,2HG and lgw, and no correlation with other factors especially with△B,△W and△H.The primary factor to affect partition lines in front of hip was established as lgw(fabric weight) by using step-by-step regression.
(3) Establishing the objective evaluation method for the virtual garment-profile appearance and prediction system
Through Friedman,we found that the subjective evaluation of 7 experts to the jackets profile appearance were accordant.We made an objective evaluation to jackets according to set proportion of side waist area and total waist area,and we found the consistency between subjective evaluation and objective evaluation though Spearman rank correlation coefficient test method.Thus,we confirmed that it was feasible to take the proportion of side waist area and total waist area as an objective evaluation of testing wearing garment profile appearance.
By analyzing objective effect of jackets in the same specs and made of the same material,we found garment ease is the main factor affecting the wearing garment profile appearance.When the ease get a certain degree,material mechanical properties had little effect to the wearing garment profile appearance,and it would not affect the wearing garment profile appearance.However, material mechanical properties affected garment appearance increasingly when the garment ease was getting smaller.Fabric having smaller 2HG obtained a better appearance.Meanwhile,smaller ease brought smaller space between garment and body,so we adjusted sample jackets according to body figure and reformed patterns to make jackets with different mechanical properties have a good wearing appearance.
This paper established multiple regression model and BP neural network model about the objective evaluation of garment profile appearance.From the predictive test,we found that neural network predicted values were much closer to the measured values than the multiple regression predicted values.This showed that that neural network prediction model is more precise than the multiple regression prediction models.
According to the OpenGL software surface display theory,dot data was been showed as the shape of the surface,so pictures of manikin and the virtual three-dimensional jackets profile appearance had been saw,but with different fabric mechanical properties,the jackets profile appearance appeared differently.
We had constructed a visualization predict system of virtual garment wearing profile appearance,and this system can judge garment wearing profile appearance based on the known fabric mechanical properties and garment specs.That system could also collect information about the certain garment wearing profile appearance:①the garment wearing profile appearance value.②judgment of garment wearing profile appearance,sample garment try-on and judgment of pattern reform necessity.③pictures which was mostly close to the three-dimensional virtual garment profile appearance.The reliability of this predicting system was been proved through testing jacket.
(1)人体与服装廓体松量的数学算法的建立
分析了使用[TC]~2扫描仪作为实验手段,获取各种截面的点云数据或曲线数据的几何算法,以及利用人体表面数据点的重新采样方法。采用重新采样法(等角法)获取所需特征截面的坐标点,并读取这些点的坐标值。利用最小二乘法和三次多项式分段拟合不同部位截面的曲线,建立人体与服装间法线距离和射线距离的算法模型。通过计算人体截面任意角度人体与服装间的法线距离和射线距离,讨论了人体与服装松量用法线距离指标比射线距离指标更合理,从而确定法线距离为人体与服装之间的距离松量。同时根据弧长等分建立面积的算法模型,用VB语言编写程序,以读取人体任意角度的距离松量和面积松量,并将人体与服装之间的距离松量和面积松量定义为服装廓体松量。
根据服装平面制图的关键部位规格确定截取人体与服装的特征截面,胸围线以上的截面:肩宽、胸宽和背宽截面;胸围线以下的截面:胸围、腰围和臀围截面。分析研究得到胸围线以上截面人体与服装之间的距离松量较小,受服装放松量的影响不大,研究这些截面没法找寻影响服装廓体松量的主要因素。而胸围线以下的截面受服装放松量的影响很大,从而将其作为特征截面进行研究,分析影响服装廓体松量的主要因素。
计算与分析特征截面人体不同角度的距离松量,总结了人体与同一款式不同放松量服装之间距离松量的分怖关系,表明距离松量不是随服装放松量均匀变化的,而是有一定的变化规律,并根据特定角度拟合了距离松量与放松量之间变化规律的曲线方程。
距离松量在不同的特征截面其变化规律不同,在胸围截面:距离松量在人体的后背处θ=120°～135°较小,在人体的胸高点处θ=240°最小,人体后面的距离松量基本大于前面的量,距离松量主要集中在θ=150°～210°之间。由于胳膊的原因,形成了波幅分别处于θ=165°和θ=195°,波谷处于θ=180°的波形图形;在腰围截面:距离松量不是均匀分布的,人体侧面部位即θ=165°～210°的量最大。在臀围截面:距离松量在后中心处θ=90°、人体的侧面θ=150°～195°以及前中心处θ=270°的量较少,在人体前面距离松量大于后面的量,且最大量集中在实验服前、后片公主线处,形成以公主线位置为波幅的波浪形状。
计算与分析特征截面人体与不同放松量服装间面积松量,其变化规律与距离松量相同,但更能表述细节的变化:对于胸围截面,侧面面积松量与服装胸围放松量存在线性关系;对于腰围截面,前、后面积松量总和以及侧面面积松量分别与服装腰围放松量存在一元二次回归关系,并可以将侧面面积松量占总面积松量70%的比例作为评价服装廓体外观效果很好的面积指标;对于臀围截面,面积松量主要集中在人体前面。
(2)影响服装廓体松量的主要相关因素的确定
测试31种面料的17种物理力学性能,采用聚类方法将其分为6类,从6类中分别挑选1种作为样衣的面料;在10件实验服的平面纸样中选择6个作为样衣样版,分别用选定的6种面料制作36件样衣。对36件样衣进行三维扫描,获取人台和样衣的点云数据,计算特征截面计算廓体松量,分析廓体松量由于面料物理力学性能不同和规格不同所导致的分怖规律变化。采用逐步回归得出影响不同截面、不同角度距离松量和面积松量的最主要因素。
胸截面各角度的距离松量受面料力学性能影响不大,在165°和195°波幅处是随着△B而呈线性变化,△B越大,距离松量越大。由于胸部和肩胛骨的隆起,人体前面和后面部分在胸截面与服装的面积松量相对是固定不变的,不受△B和面料物理力学性能的影响。影响人体侧面部分面积松量的主要因素为△B、1gw以及lg2HB,其中影响因素最大的是△B。
腰截面各角度距离松量受△B和△W影响较大,而受面料物理力学性能影响较小。影响人体后面和侧面部分面积松量的最主要因素是△W,而影响人体前面部分面积松量的最主要因素是△W和lg2HG5。
臀截面90°～120°的距离松量主要受2HG和F的影响,225°～270°主要受lg2HB的影响。影响人体后面部分面积松量最主要因素是2HG,影响人体侧面部分的最主要因素是△H和1gw,影响人体前面部分的最主要因素是面料的△H、2HG和F。
胸部、腰部前分割线处于人体角度变化不大,臀部位置的角度变化也是有规律的,臀部前分割线角度和G、2HG及1gw相关性较为显著,而与其他性能无相关性,特别是与△B、△W、△H无关。通过逐步回归影响臀部前分割线的最主要因素是1gw(面料重量)。
(3)服装着装廓体外观效果的客观评价与预测模型的提出
通过Friedman检验7名专家对服装着装廓体外观效果的主观评价具有一致性;设定腰围侧面面积占据总面积比例区间对服装进行客观外观效果评价,通过Spearman秩位相关系数检验法得出主观评价与客观评价的一致性,即将腰围侧面面积占总腰围面积比例区间作为检验服装着装廓体外观效果的客观指标是可行的。
对同规格、同面料的服装着装客观效果值与其相对应标准值的差值进行分析,服装放松量是影响服装着装廓体外观效果的主要因素,当服装的放松量达到一定程度时,面料力学性能对服装外观效果影响较小,只要根据具有很好外观效果样版制作的样衣,不会因为面料力学性能不同而对服装外观效果有很大的改变。然而,服装放松量越小,则面料力学性能对服装外观效果的影响越大,若要取得较好的外观效果则需要选择2HG较小的面料。同时因为服装放松量小,服装与人体之间的空隙小,则需要根据人体形状对样衣进行补正,从而修改样版,使得具有不同力学性能的服装都具有很好的着装外观效果。
建立了着装廓体外观客观效果值的多元回归模型和BP神经网络模型,通过预测检验,神经网络预测的值比多元回归预测的值与实测值更接近,说明神经网络预测模型比多元回归预测模型更精确。
根据OpenGL软件曲面显示的原理将点数据显示为曲面形状,从而显示人台和服装三维虚拟着装廓体外观图像,由于面料力学性能不一致,所以着装廓体外观效果有很大的区别。
构建了可视化的虚拟着装廓体外观效果预测系统,可以根据已知的面料物理力学性能、成品规格对服装着装廓体的外观效果进行评判,得到相应服装着装廓体外观效果的信息:①、着装廓体外观效果值;②、着装廓体外观效果评判结果以及样衣试穿、样版修改的必要性判别;③、最接近的三维虚拟着装廓体外观效果图。通过检验样衣对系统进行了检验,证实了预测系统具有一定的可靠性。
Although the relation between human body and garment is complex and vague,it is the basic study of garment fitting,three-dimensional virtual and fireproof garment security.This paper confirmed the basis of the theory of an objective evaluation for the virtual garment profile appearance from the engineering point of view based on the garment fitting,comfort and study of the combined relationship between material mechanical properties and garment ease capacity.The main works and approach in the study can be outlined as following.
(1) Establishing mathematical algorithms of the ease between the body and the garment
Dot cloud data of variety of sections or geometry algorithm of curve data was captured by using [TC]~2 scanner and body surface data points re-sampling methods.This paper obtained the coordinates of required characteristic section by use of re-sampling method(Conformal method), then established algorithm models of distance between body and garment both in normal and radial directions by using least squares and cubic polynomial approximation to fit curves of different sections,and confirmed the normal distance as the distance between human body and garment.Meanwhile,in accordance with the even arc-length the algorithm model of area ease was built.This paper used VB programming language to get distance ease and area ease with any angle, and defined these distance ease and area ease between body and garment as the garment profile ease.
By calculating the normal and radial distance between body and garment at any random body sections angle,this paper found that the normal distance was more reasonable for body and garment ease than the radial distance.This was mainly because normal distance was the shortest from body to garment and it is the normal offset value in 3D virtual garment..
According to the important part spec of garment plane cartography,characteristic sections of human body and garment were obtained,and sections above bust line were:shoulder width,bust width and back width section,sections under bust line were bust-full,waist-full and hip-full section.Analysis showed that distance between sections above bust line and garment was much shorter and less affected by garment ease,and research on these sections rarely helped to look for the main factors affecting the garment profile ease.On the contrary,sections under bust line were influenced by garment ease,and this paper studied these sections and analyzed main factors affecting the garment profile ease.
This paper calculated and analyzed the distance ease of characteristic sections with different body angles,summed up the distance ease distribution relation between body and variety clothing sizes within the same garment style.The study showed that change of distance ease had certain change rules rather than evenly following the garment ease change,curve equation of change rules between distance ease and garment ease was been fitted according to certain angle.
Distance ease in different sections had different change rules,for bust-full section,distance ease were smaller in back whenθwas from 120°to 135°,and the smallest in bust point whenθwas 240°.Distance ease in the back was bigger than in the front basically,and the most of the distance ease existed whenθwas between 150°to 210°.Because of arms,wave figure had amplitude whenθwas 165°or 195°,trough whenθwas 135°.As for waist-full section,distance ease distributed unevenly and got the biggest in the side whenθwas from 165°to 210°.In hip-full section, distance ease was much smaller in back whenθwas 90°and in the side whenθwas from 150°to 195°.In the front center whenθwas 270°,the distance ease was bigger than in back and besides. The most of the distance ease was in the princess line and formed a wave figure which had amplitude of the princess line position.
By calculating and analyzing the area ease between body and garment with different clothing size,we found its change rule was similar with the distance ease,but was more useful for showing the details' change.For bust-full section,there was linear relation between area ease in the side and garment ease,and for waist-full section,there was quadratic equation between clothing sizes and area ease in the side,and summation area ease including the front and back.Besides,the proportion of area ease in the side took 70%of the total area ease could be used as area evaluation of garment-profile appearance.As for hip-full section,area ease was mainly in the front.
(2) Ascertaining the main correlation factors which affect the garment-profile ease
Seventeen mechanical properties of 31 different material had been tested,these material were classified as 6 species by using Cluster analysis,and one fabric of each species was selected as the sample coat fabric.Six patterns were selected as the sample jackets patterns from ten experimental patterns,so 36 jackets were made using the 6 selected material.By scanning these 36 sample jackets,we got the dot cloud data of model and sample jackets,obtained characteristic section, calculated garment-profile ease,analyzed the change of garment-profile ease distribution rule caused by different material mechanical properties and specs.The primary factors which affected different sections,distance ease and area ease in different angles were obtained by using step-by-step regression.
Distance ease in bust section with different angle was almost not affected by material mechanical properties,whenθwas between 165°and 195°,distance ease was in a linear change along with the change of△B,the bigger△B was,the bigger distance ease was.Bust section area ease were comparatively invariable in the front and back of human body due to the chest and scapular bone,and it also did not affected by△B and material mechanical properties.△B,lgw and lg2HB were main factors which affected the area ease in the side of body..
Distance ease in waist section within different angle was significantly affected by△B and△W,little affected by material mechanical properties.△W was the main factor which affected the area ease in the back and side of human body while△W and lg2HB5 were the main factors witch affected the area ease in the front of human body.
Distance ease in hip section was significantly affected by 2HG and F whenθwas between 90°and 120°,and affected by lg2HB whenθwas between 225°and 270°.2HG was the main factor to affect the area ease in the back of human body;△H and lgw were the main factors to affect the area ease in the side of human body and△H,2HG and F were to the front.
The angles in front bust and waist partition lines changed slightly while angles in hip had an orderly change.The partition lines in front of hip had significant correlation with G,2HG and lgw, and no correlation with other factors especially with△B,△W and△H.The primary factor to affect partition lines in front of hip was established as lgw(fabric weight) by using step-by-step regression.
(3) Establishing the objective evaluation method for the virtual garment-profile appearance and prediction system
Through Friedman,we found that the subjective evaluation of 7 experts to the jackets profile appearance were accordant.We made an objective evaluation to jackets according to set proportion of side waist area and total waist area,and we found the consistency between subjective evaluation and objective evaluation though Spearman rank correlation coefficient test method.Thus,we confirmed that it was feasible to take the proportion of side waist area and total waist area as an objective evaluation of testing wearing garment profile appearance.
By analyzing objective effect of jackets in the same specs and made of the same material,we found garment ease is the main factor affecting the wearing garment profile appearance.When the ease get a certain degree,material mechanical properties had little effect to the wearing garment profile appearance,and it would not affect the wearing garment profile appearance.However, material mechanical properties affected garment appearance increasingly when the garment ease was getting smaller.Fabric having smaller 2HG obtained a better appearance.Meanwhile,smaller ease brought smaller space between garment and body,so we adjusted sample jackets according to body figure and reformed patterns to make jackets with different mechanical properties have a good wearing appearance.
This paper established multiple regression model and BP neural network model about the objective evaluation of garment profile appearance.From the predictive test,we found that neural network predicted values were much closer to the measured values than the multiple regression predicted values.This showed that that neural network prediction model is more precise than the multiple regression prediction models.
According to the OpenGL software surface display theory,dot data was been showed as the shape of the surface,so pictures of manikin and the virtual three-dimensional jackets profile appearance had been saw,but with different fabric mechanical properties,the jackets profile appearance appeared differently.
We had constructed a visualization predict system of virtual garment wearing profile appearance,and this system can judge garment wearing profile appearance based on the known fabric mechanical properties and garment specs.That system could also collect information about the certain garment wearing profile appearance:①the garment wearing profile appearance value.②judgment of garment wearing profile appearance,sample garment try-on and judgment of pattern reform necessity.③pictures which was mostly close to the three-dimensional virtual garment profile appearance.The reliability of this predicting system was been proved through testing jacket.
引文
[1]Loker S Z.Ashdown S.,Schoenfelder K.Size-specific analysis of body scan data to improve apparel fit[J].Journal of Textile and Apparel,Technology and Management,2005,3(4):1-15.
[2]Ashdown S,Loker S.Use of Body Scan Data to Design Sizing Systems Based on Target Markets[J].National Textile Center Annual Report,2001,11:1-5.
[3]Kohn I.L.,Ashdown S.P.,Using Video Capture and Image Analysis to Quantify Apparel Fit[J],Textile Res.J.1998,68(1):17-26
[4]Wang Z.,Newton E.,Ng R.and Zhang W.,Ease distribution in relation to the X-line style jacket.Part 1:Development of a mathematical model[J].The Textile Institute,2006,3(97):247-256
[5]杨允出,基于体形分析的女性虚拟人台建立与服装原型样版定制研究[D],东华大学博士论文,2007
[6]Xu J.,3D virtual garment technology and its development[J],Shanghai Texi.Tech.,2002,30(6):56-59.
[7]Diss J.M.S.,and Gamito M.N.,A discretised linear elastic model for cloth buckling and drape[J],Textile Res.J.,2000,70(4):285-297.
[8]Rudomin I.,Simulating Cloth Using a Mixed Geometric-Physical Method[D],Doctoral dissertation,Department of computer and Information Science,University of Pennsylvania,1990
[9]Xu B.,Huang Y.,Yu W.and Chen T.,Body scanning and modeling for custom fit garments[J],J.Textile and Apparel,Technology and Management,2002,2(2):1-4
[10]Zhang R.Y.and Li R.Q.,3D Data's Picking up and Garment Key Points Getting in Garment CAD[J],J.of China Textile University,200,26(3):48-50.(in Chinese)
[11]Barker R.L.and Hamouda H.,Modeling Heat and Moisture Transport in Firefighter Protective Clothing during Flash Fire Exposure[C],National Textile Center Research Briefs -Management Systems Competency:.June 2004
[12]Song G.W.,Clothing Air Gap layers and Thermal Protective Performance in Single Layer Garment[J].Journal of industrial textile,2007,36(3):193-205
[13]中泽 愈著,袁观洛译,人体与服装[M],中国纺织出版社,1996年第1版第1次:8
[14]Person E A,Standardization of industrial garment fit[J],Industrial Launderer,Oct.,1980,31:81-89
[15]Fan J,Yu W,Hunter L,Clothing appearance and fit:Science and Technology[M],HongKong:Pubished by Woodhead publishing limited,2004
[16]Patorski K,Handbook of the moire Fringe Technique[J],Amsterdam,New York,Elsevier,1993,220-253
[17]Suda N and Takahashi T,Evaluation of drapability by moire topography[J],J Japan Res Asso Tex End Uses,1983,24:209-214
[18]Matsuoka H,Niwa M and Nages S,Evaluation methods for bagging oe garment[J],J Japan Res Assoc Text End-Uses,1984,25:502～509
[19]Matsuoka H,Niwa M and Nagae S,On evaluation methods for wrinkling for using moire topography[J],Japan Res Assoc Text End-Uses,1984,25:34～42
[20]Tanaka M and Doi S,Classification of partial body shape by moire topography[J],Japan Res Assoc Text End-Uses,1982,23:255～261
[21]Tomita A,and Nakaho Y.,An experiment on the ease of the pants(part 1)[J],Japan Res Assoc Text End-Uses,1989,30:133～141
[22]Tomita A,Kazuyo I and Nakaho Y,An experiment on basic dress pattern for aged women,Part 2:The characteristics of the arm form for drawing the flat pattern of the sleeve[J],Japan Res Assoc Text End-Uses,1992,33:434～441
[23]Yu W M,Ng K P,Yan M C and Gu H B,Body scanner,Chinese patent no.ZL01269653.6,granted on 2 October,2002
[24]Yu W M,The effect of polyurethane properties and moulding conditions on the shape characteristic of brassiere cups[D],PhD Thesis,The University of Laads,UK,April,1996
[25]Yu W M,Harlock S C,Leaf G A V and Yeung K W,Instrumental design for capturing three-dimensional moire image[J],Int J Cloth Sci Technol,1997,9(4):301～310
[26]Yu W M,Harlock S C,Leaf G A V and Yeung K W,Enhancement of fringe visibility for three-dimensional moire measure[C],Proc 78th Textile Inst World Conf,23～26 May 1997,2:361～370
[27]Yu W M,Harlock S C,Leaf G A V and Yeung K W,Contour measurements of mould brassiere cups using a shadow moire technique[C],Proc Third Asian Text Conf,Hong Kong,1995,1:300～308
[28]Yu W M,Yeung K W and Lam Y L,Assessment of garment fit[C],Proc of the HKITA and CTES Conf on Hand-in-Hand Marching into 21 Century,Shanghai,China,April 1998,125～129
[29]Pirodda L,Shadow and projection moire techniques for absolute or relative mapping of surface shape[J],Opti Eng,1982,21:640～649
[30]Akiyama T.,Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan,1996,49(60):52～55
[31]Ng R,Cchan C K,Pong T Y and Au R,Objective measurement of the‘fit’of an apparel[C],Proc 77~(th) Text Inst World Conf,May,1996,Tampere,Finland
[32]Miyoshi M.,and Hirokawa T.,Study on the method of a vacant space distance in a worn jacket for clothing pattern design[J],Japan Res Assoc Text End-Uses,2001,42:233~241
[33]Wang Z.H,Study on the relation between garment style and ease distribution[J],Journal of Donghua University,2004,6(21):31-37
[34]Mullet K.K.,The Effects of Shoulder Position on Four Sleeve/Bodice Structures[D],PhD Thesis,Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University,1991
[35]Ng R,Chart C K,Pong T Y and Au R,Shape reconstruction using linear measurement[J],J China Text University(English Edition),1995,12:30-35
[36]Taya Y,Shibuya A and Nakajima T,Evaluation method of clothing fitness with body—Part 1:Evaluation index of clothing fitness[J],J Text Math Soc Japan,1995,48(2):48-55
[37]Taya Y,Shibuya A and Nakajima T,Evaluation method of clothing fitness with body—Part 2:Application of symmetrized dot pattern to the visual characterization of clothing wave form[J],J Text Mach Soc Japan,1995,48(6):51-60
[38]Taya Y,Shibuya A and Nakajima T,'Evaluation method of clothing fitness with body—Part 3:Evaluation by cross-sectional shape of clothing[J],J Text Mach Soe Japan,1995,48(9):225-234
[39]Taya Y,Shibuya A and Nakajima T,Evaluation method of clothing fitness with body—Part 4:Evaluation by waveform spacing between body and clothing[J],J Text Mach Soc Japan,1995,48(11):41-49
[40]Taya Y,Slaibuya A and Nakajima T,Evaluation method of clothing fitness with body—Part 5:Application of wavelet transform to analysis of clothing waveforms[J],J Text Math Soc Japan,1996,49(6):41-49
[41]Taya Y,Shibuya A and Nakajima T,Evaluation method of clothing fitness with body—Part 6:Evaluation of clothing waveforms by wavelet transform[J],J Text Mach Soc Japan,1996,49(6):46-58
[42]Wang Z.H.,Newton E.,Ng R..and Zhang W.Ease distribution in relation to the X-line style jacket.Partl:Application to pattern alteration[J],The Textile Institute,2006,3(97):257-264
[43]Loker S.Z,Ashdown S.,Schoenfelder K.,Size-specific analysis of body scan data to improve apparel fit,Journal of Textile and Apparel[J],Technology and Management,2005,3(4):1-15
[44]Makabe H.,and Momota,H.,The relation between the change inthe upper limb motion and the clothing pattern[J],Japan ResAssoc TextEnd-Uses,1991,32:34-42
[45]Hirokawa T.,and Miyoshi M.,Relations between drafting factors of jacket pattern and wearing feeling of clothing[J],Japan Res Assoc Text End-Uses,1997,38:218-226
[46]Ono K.,Pattern Making[M],Bunka Publishing Bureau,Tokyo,1997
[47]Salim M,Ibrahim,A Psychological scale for fabric stiffness[J].Journal of Textile Institute,1985,76:41-42
[48]吴济宏,于伟东,针织面料压迫舒适性的评价回顾[J],武汉科技学院学报.2006,3(19):1-4
[49]Elizbath M Crowther,Hand of weft knit fabric[J],Textile Res J,1992,62:200-211
[50]Kazuya,Haruko Makable,Sensory Assessment Assessed[J],Textile Asia,1997,21:144-147
[51]Noriko Ito,Haruko Makabe.Effects of clothing pressure Exerted on a Trunk on Heart rate,Blood pressure,Skin Blood Flow and Respiratory Function[J].J Text Math Soe Japan,1995,36:102-108
[52]Ayako Inamura,The buffering action of hygroscopic clothing[J],Text Res J,1995,34:814-816
[53]Wang S W,Prediction of clothing sensory comfort using Neural Networks and Fuzzy logic[D],Doctor Thesis,UK,2002
[54]Denton M J,Fit,Stretch and comfort[C],3rd shirley International Seminar,Text Corn,Manchester,England,1970:15-17
[55]王小兵,姚穆,体育防护用品的压力舒适性及运动功能性探讨[J],西北纺织工学院学报,2001,15(2):22-25
[56]王小兵,服装穿着接触压力舒适的研究[D],西北纺织工学院硕士论文,1998
[57]陈东升,刘丽杰,男子西装的服装压对舒适性评价的研究:服装压与舒适性的关系[J],长春工业大学学报,2002,23(8):131-135
[58]由芳,张欣,紧身服的宽裕量及弹性模量与服装压感的关系[J],西北纺织工学院学报,2000,6(14):133-137
[59]张文斌,胡晓俐,裤装穿着拘束感的相关因子分析[J],中国纺织大学学报,2000,4(26):91-95
[60]丛杉,基于面料物理特征的牛仔裤合体性和穿着舒适性预测判别[D],东华大学博士论文,2007
[61]Yu W,Fan JT,Qian XM and Tao XM,Development of a mannequin for garment pressure evaluation[C],Proc Text Edu Res.:Strategies for the New Millennium,1st AUTEX Conference, Portugal,26-29 June,2001,1:452-457
[62]Watkins P.,Analysis of Stretch Garments[C],Proceedings of the 80~(th) World Conference of the Textile Institute,16-19,April,2000.Manchester,UK
[63]Pechoux B.L.and Ghosh T.K.,Apparel sizing and fit[J],Text Progr,The textile Institute,Manchester,UK,32(1),31
[64]NIMC,Evaluation of size fitness of garments,www.aist.go.ip/NIMC/overview/v17.html
[65]Zhang X.,Yeung K.W.and Li Y.,Numeral simulation of 3-D dynamic garment pressure[J],Text Res J 2002,72(3):245-252.
[66]日本纤维机械学会,布の風合い[M],大阪:纤维机械学会,1972
[67]川端,風合い評價の標準化と解析(第2版)[M],大阪:纤维机械学会,1980
[68]川端季雄,风格的标准化及分析[M],日本大阪:日本纤维机械学会,1980
[69]Lloyd D.W.,The Analysis of Complex Fabric Deformation in Mechanics of Flexible Fibre Assemblies[M],Sijthoff & Noordhoff Inl'l Publishers B.B.,1980,:311-342
[70]Kawabata S.& Niwa M.,Fabric performance in clothing and clothing manufacture[J].J Text Inst,1989,80:19-49
[71]潘宁,织物触觉风格的客观评价[D],中国纺织大学博士论文,1985
[72]Pan N.,Yen K.C.,Zhao S.J.,A new approach to the objective measurement of fabrics handle from mechanics properties-Part Ⅰ[J].Textile,Res.J.1988,58(8):438-443
[73]Pan N.,Yen K.C.,Zhao S.J.et al,A new approach to the objective measurement of fabrics handle from mechanics properties—Part Ⅱ[J].Textile,Res.J,1988,58(8):531-537
[74]徐一耿,织物结构力学理论发展的现状、问题和对策[J],力学与实践,1996,18(1):9-12
[75]Amirbayat J.and Hearle J.W.S.,The Anatomy of Bucking of Textile Fabrics:Drape and Conformavility[J],J.Text.Inst.,1989,80:51-69
[76]Brown P.R.,Buchanan D.R.,and Clapp T.G.,Large-Deflection Bending of Woven Fabric for Automated Material Handling[J],J.Text.Inst.,1990,81:1-14
[77]Clapp T.G.and Peng H.,Buckling of Woven Fabric,Part Ⅰ:Effect of Fabric Weight[J],Textile Res.J.,1990,60:228-234;
[78]Clapp T.G.and Peng H.,Buckling of Woven Fabric,Part Ⅱ:Effect of Weight Frictional Couple[J],Textile Res.J.,1990,60:285-292
[79]钟跃崎,织物变形形态的可视化模拟技术研究[D],东华大学:博士论文,200l
[80]纪峰,织物悬垂性静动态视觉仿真及效果评价[D],东华大学:博士论文,2005
[81]Ji F.Li R.Q.Qiu Y.P.,Three-dimensional Garment Simulation Based on a mass-spring system[J],Textile Res.J.2006,76(1):12-17
[82]Kawabata S.& Niwa M.,Tailoring process control[J],J Text Inst,1992,83:361-373
[83]王府梅,织物风格设计系统的基础研究[D],奈良女子大学博士学位论文,1996
[84]陈东升,织物物理力学性能及其风格关系的基础研究[D],中国纺织大学博士论文,1997
[85]燕飞,织物与纱线弯曲性能研究[D],东华大学硕士论文,1999
[86]徐光标,精纺毛型织物弯曲和剪切性能研究[D],东华大学硕士论文,2002
[87]Wang E M.Xu G.B.Xu B.G.,Perdition of the sheafing rigidity of woven fabric[J].Textile Res.J.,2004(10)
[88]庄鄂,织物表面摩擦性能的预测研究[D],东华大学硕士论文,200l
[891吴小琴,织物压缩性能的研究[D],东华大学硕士论文,2001
[90]Hearle J.W.S.,For Composites:Virtrtual Reality and Fabric Mechanics[J],Textile Horizons,April,1995:12-15
[9l]董孚云,织物结构力学中几个问题研究的进展[J],纺织基础科学学报,1991,4(1):64-70
[92]Fan J.,Newton E.,and Au R.,Predicting garment drape with a Fuzzy-Neural Network[J],Textile Res.J.,2001,7(71):605-608
[93]Park S W,Hwang Y G,Kang B C.Applying fuzzy logic and neural networks to total hand evaluation of knitted fabrics[J].Textile Res.J.2001,70(8):675-681
[94]Jai S.S.,Objective evaluation model of visual elegance of swirl skirts Partl Regression method[J],J Text Mach See Japan,2003,1(56):51-56,10(16):51-56
[95]Lai S.S.,Objective evaluation model of visual elegance of swirl skirts Part2 Neural Network method[J],J Text Math See Japan,2003,7(57):57-61
[96]Sidabraite V.,Masteikaite V.,A preliminary study for evaluation of skirt asymmetric drape[J],International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology,2002,5(14):286-298
[97]Wang Z.H.Ng R.,Newton E.and Zhang W.B.,Modeling of Cross-sectional Shape for Women's Jacket Design[J],Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan,2007,4(63):87-96
[98]章永红,袁观洛,张怀珠,织物性能与服装外观优劣的判别分析[J],纺织学报,2002,1(23):76-78
[99]倪红,大波浪斜裙的裙摆下垂问题研究[J],丝绸,2003,2:44-46
[100]巴桂玲,服装特殊结构的立体构成与影响因素分析[D],东华大学硕士学位论文,2007
[101]唐虹,基于面料物理力学性能的半紧身裙造型风格特征主客观评价与预测[D],东华大学博士论文,2008年
[1]Gazzuolo E,Delong M,Lohr S,La Bat K and Bye EEE,Predicting garment pattern dimensions form photographic and anthropometric data[J],Appl Ergon,1992,23(3):161～171
[2]Pirodda L,Principil e applicazioni di un metodo foto-grammetrico garment basato sull impiego del moire[J],Rivista di Ingegneria,1969,12:913～923
[3]Paquette S,3D Scanning in apparel design and human engineering[J],IEEE Computer Graph Appl,1996,16(5) 11～15
[4]Crawford F J,Electro-Optical Sensor Overview[J],IEEE AES System Magazine,1998,10:17～24
[5]Waack G F,An Introduction to Stereo Photo Technology and Practical Suggestion for Stereo Photography[EB],http://www.Stereoscopy.com/ A.Klein,1985
[6]Tae J K and Sung M K,Optimized Garment Pattern Generation Based on Three-Dimensional Anthropometric Measurement[J],Int.J Cloth Science Technology,2000,12(4).240-245
[7]Mckinnon L and Istook C L,The effects of subject respiration and foot positioning on the data integrity of scanned measurements[J],J Fashion Marketing and Management,2002,6(2):103～121
[8]Bougourd J P,Dekker L.Ross P G and Ward J P,A Comparison of Women's Sizing by 3D Electronic Scanning and Traditional Anthropometry[J],J Text Inst,2000,91(2) 163～173
[9]Daanen H A M and Jeroen-wan-de-Water G,Whole body scanner,Displays,1998,19 111～120
[10]Brunsman M A,Daanen H M and Robinette K M,Optimal postures and positioning for human body scanning[P],Proc.Int.Conf Recent Advances in 3-D Digital Imaging and Modeling (Cat.No.97TB100134),Los Alamitos,CA,USA and Ottawa,Ontario,Canada,IEEE Computer Soc Press,1997
[11]Daanen H A M,Brunsman M A and Robinette K M,Reducing movement artifacts in whole body scanning[P],Proc Int Conf Recent Advances in 3D Digital Imaging and Modeling(Cat.No.97TB100134),Los Alamitos,CA,USA and Ottawa,Ontario,Canada,IEEE Comput Soc Press,1997
[12]Corner B and Hu A.,Effect of sway on image fidelity in whole body digitizing[J],The International Society for Optical Engineering,1998,33(13):90-99
[13]Simmons K P.,Body measurement techniques:a comparison of three-dimensional body scanning and physical anthropometric methods[D],PHD Thesis,College of Textiles,North Carolina State University,2001
[14]Geisen G R,Automatic detection,identification,and registration of anatomical landmarks form 3D laser digitizer body segment scans[C],IEEE 17~(th) Annual Conf 1995,Scan Jose,CA,USA,Engineering in Medicine and Biology Society,1995
[15]Lewark E A and Nurre J H,Automated fudicial labeling on human body data[J],The International Society for Optical Engineering,1998,33(13):82-89
[16]李惠敏,面向电子化量身订制服装E-MTM三维人体测量数据库的研究与实现[D],东华大学硕士论文,2005
[17]赛博科技工作室,VRML与Java编程技术[M],北京:人民邮电出版社,2002
[18]夏明,基于MTM的男上装样版快速生成系统研究[D],东华大学硕士论文,2005年
[19]杨允出,基于体形分析的女性虚拟人台建立与服装原型样版定制研究[D],东华大学博士论文,2007年
[20]读取DXF格式文件,网址:http://www.qqgb.com/VC/VCJQ/,2007
[21]Douros T.,Dekker I.,Buxton B.,Reconstruction of the surface of the human body from 3D scanner data using B-splines[J],SPIE proceedings,1999,1(36):40-45
[1]Wang Z.H,Study on the relation between garment style and ease distribution[J],Journal of Donghua University,2004,6(21):31-37
[2]Miyoshi M.,Hirokawa T,Study on the Method of a Vacant Space Distance in a Worn Jacket for Clothing Pattern Design[J],Journal of the Japan research association for textile end-uses,200142(4):233-241
[3]Ng R,Cchan C K,Pong T Y and Au R,Objective measurement of the 'fit' of an apparel[C],Proc 77~(th) Text Inst World Conf,May,1996,Tampere,Finland
[4]Mullet K.K.,The Effects of Shoulder Position on Four Sleeve/Bodice Structures[D],PhD Thesis,Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University,1991
[5]Wang Z.,Newton E.,Ng R.and Zhang W.,Ease distribution in relation to the X-line style jacket.Part 1:Development of a mathematical model[J].The Textile Institute,2006,3(97):247-256
[6]王霄 等,逆向工程技术及其应用[M],化学工业出版社,2004
[7]朱心雄 等,自由曲线曲面造型技术[M],北京:清华大学出版社,1990
[8]付世波,袁修干,基于B样条曲面的人体模型的建立[J],计算机学报,1998,21(12):1131-1135
[9]吴晓燕,基于NURBS的三维人体自由曲面造型技术研究及开发[D],北京服装学院硕士学位论文,2002
[10]李红燕,基于人体特征线的人台曲面分片拟合造型研究[D],北京服装学院硕士学位论文,2004
[11]周华,构造裂缝的评价与软件设计[D],成都理工大学硕士论文,2006
[12]何光渝主编,Java常用数值算法集(1CD)[M],科学出版社,2002
[13]颜何生,二元三点拉格朗日插值法在水能计算中的应用[J],中国科技信息,2005,13:92-95
[14]刘爱奎,段奇,杜世田,插值曲线区域控制的加权有理插值方法[J],计算机辅助设计与图形学学报,2007,7(12):497-501
[15]欧阳峥峥 等主编,数据库应用技术——Visual Basic及其应用系统开发[M],中国水利水电出版社,2005
[16](日本)文化服装学院编、张祖芳等译,服饰造型讲座 1·服饰造型基础tM],上海:东华大学出版社,2005
[17]张文斌 等主编,服装结构设计[M],北京:中国纺织出版社,2006
[18]冯翼 等主编,服装技术手册[M],上海:上海科学技术文献出版社,2005
[19]李峰,等主编,excel2007图解入门与实例应用[M],北京:中国铁道出版社,2008
[20]徐继红,张文斌,肖平,人体与服装特征曲面间面积松量的分怖关系[J],纺织学报,2008,5(29):102-106
[21]庄楚强 等主编,应用数理统计基础[M],广州:华南理工大学出版社,2002
[1]王府梅 服装面料的性能设计[M],东华大学出版社,2005
[2]川端季雄,风格的标准化及其分析,第2版,大阪:日本纤维机械学会,1980
[3]CSIRO Australia,Fast Instruction Manual,1994.
[4]绫田雅子,织物的力学性能与服装的外观轮廓特征的研究[D],日本国立奈良女子大学博士论文,1995
[5]Ayada M,Miki M and Niwa M.International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology.1991,3(3):18-27.
[6]Kawabata S,Niwa M.International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology.1992,4(5):34-44.
[7]Niwa M,Wang F and Kawabata S.Fabric Hand and the optimum Silhouette Design for Ladies Dress.第21回纤维工学讨论会论文集,日本大阪,日本纤维机械学会,1992,122-127
[8]Niwa M,Wang F.An Analysis of The Quality Assessment of Ladies Garment Fabric.第一届西安国际毛纺织讨论会论文集,中国纺织工程学会,1994,266-280
[9]于伟东 等主编,纺织材料学(普通高等教育十五国家级规划教材)[M],北京:中国纺织出版社,2006
[10]余建英 等,数据统计分析与SPSS应用[M],北京:人民邮电出版社,2005
[11]张文彤 等主编,SPSS11统计分析教程(基础篇)[M],北京:北京希望电子出版社,2002
[12]张文彤 等主编,SPSS11统计分析教程(高级篇)[M],北京:北京希望电子出版社,2002
[13]范金城,梅长林,数据分析[M],北京:科学出版社,2002
[14]Fan Jin-tu,Clothing Appearance and Fit,2004上海国际服装文化节国际服装论坛论文集,2004,134-139
[15]Charlie C.L.,Wang et al.Virtual human modeling from photographs for garment industry[J],Computer-Aided Design,2003,35:577-589.
[16]Sul I.H.,Kang T.J.Improvemet of drape simulation speed using constrained fabric collision [J],International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 2004,1/2(16):43-50.
[17]Wang Z.H,Study on the relation between garment style and ease distribution[J],Journal of Donghua University,2004,6(21):31-37
[18]Loker S.Z,Ashdown S.,Schoenfelder K.,Size-specific analysis of body scan data to improve apparel fit,Journal of Textile and Apparel[J],Technology and Management,2005,3(4):1-15
[19]Sidabraite V.,Masteikaite V.,A preliminary study for evaluation of skirt asymmetric drape[J],International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology,2002,5(14):286-298
[20]Lai S.S.,Objective evaluation model of visual elegance of swirl skirts Part1 Regression method[J],J Text Mach Soc Japan,2003,1(56):51-56,10(16):51-56.
[21]Lai S.S.,Objective evaluation model of visual elegance of swirl skirts Part2 Neural Network method[J],J Text Mach Soc Japan,2003,7(57):57-61.
[22]Taya Y,Shibuya A and Nakajima T,'Evaluation method of clothing fitness with body—Part 5:Application of wavelet transform to analysis of clothing waveforms'[J],J Text Mach Soc Japan,1996,49(6):41-49.
[23]Taya Y,Shibuya A and Nakajima T,'Evaluation method of clothing fitness with body—Part 6:Evaluation of clothing waveforms by wavelet transform'[J],J Text Mach Soc Japan,1996,49(6):46-58.
[24]巴桂玲 服装特殊结构的立体构成与影响因素分析[D],东华大学硕士学位论文,2007
[25]Park S.W.,Hwang Y.G.and Kang B.C.A fuzzy application to fabric hand evaluation(Ⅰ):applicationto double weft-knitted fabrics[J],J.Korean Fiber Soc.,1996 33:849-854
[26]Park S.W.,Hwang Y.G.and Kang B.C.A fuzzy application to fabric hand evaluation(Ⅲ):applicationto double weft-knitted fabrics[J],J.Korean Fiber Soc.,1998 35:119-124
[27]Park S.W.,Hwang Y.G.and Kang B.C.Studies on the mechanical properties and hand of double knitted fabric[J],J.Korean Fiber Sot.,1995 32:859-868
[28]Park S.W.,Hwang Y.G.,Measuring and fuzzy predicting total handle from selected mechanical properties of double weft-knitted fabrics[J],Textile Res.J.,1999 69:19-24
[29]Park S.W.,Hwang Y.G.and Kang B.C.A fuzzy application to fabrics hand evaluation(Ⅱ):application to polyester fabric in Korea[J],J.Korean Fiber Soc,1997 34:85-89
[30]Gong,R.H.Quality measurement of knitted apparel fabric[J],Textile Res.J.,1995,65:5449
[1]刘艳君,刘素英,毛针织服装风格综合评价中主因子的确定[J],毛纺科技,2005(7):5-8
[2]刘艳君,韩红爽,毛针织服装风格客观评价的研究[J],毛纺科技,2005(8):32-35
[3]杨淑霞,吕世森,乔艳芬,用电客户信用的主客观评价及分析[J],中国电力,2005,6(38):1-4
[4]林逸,张昕,施国标,汽车专项感觉主观评价试验方法综述[J],公路交通科技,2007,2(24):130-134
[5]聂静涛,群体多属性决策方法及其应用[J],南京航空航天大学学报,2006,4(38):524-528
[6]朱赤晖,李念平,文伟,室内空气品质主观评价的灰色关联分析[J],广州大学学报(自然科学版),2003,3(2):273-276
[7]王革辉,赵涛,织物刺痒感的主观评价研究[J],毛纺科技,2007,4:52-55
[8]李毅,纺织品热湿舒适性能测试方法研究[J],纺织学报,1983,12:5-9
[9]李亚娟,丁雪梅,辛洁,吸湿快干型服装穿着热湿舒适性主客观评价一致性研究[J],山东纺织科技,2006,6:48-51
[10]Shinoa Hiroyuki,Asamura Naoya,Tomori Naruyuki.Tactile feeling display based on selective stimulation to skin machanoreceptors[C].IEEE International Conference on Robotics and Automation V1 1998.IEEE,Piscataway,NJ,USA,98CH36146:680-683
[11]吴喜之 等著,非参数统计方法[M],中国统计出版社,1996
[12]王静龙 梁小筠编著,非参数统计分析(高等学校统计类系列教材)[M],高等教育出版社,2006
[13]高隽,人工神经网络原理及仿真实例[M],北京:机械工业出版社,2003
[14]郑君里 等著,人工神经网络[M],北京:高等教育出版社,1991
[15]Kohonen T.An introduction to neural computing[J],Neural Networks,1988,1:3-16
[16]Vangheluwe L.,Sieben G.,Boullart L.The classiflication of brain tumours by a topological map[C],Proceedings of the International Neural Network Conference 90 Paris 1990
[17]Fausett L.Fundamentals of Neural Networks:Architectures,Algorithms and Applications[D],Prentice Hall International,Inc.,NY,1994
[18]飞思科技产品研发中心编著,神经网络理论与MATLAB实现[M],北京:电子工业出版社,2005
[19]丛爽编著,面向MATLAB工具箱的神经网络理论与应用[M],北京:中国科学技术出版社,2003
[20]唐虹,基于面料物理力学性能的半紧身群造型风格特征主客观评价与预测[D],东华大学博士论文,2008
[21]Forti M.,Nistri P,Quincampoix M.Generalized neural network for unsmooth nonlinear programming problem[J].IEEE Trans,2004,51:1741-1754
[22]Chang Pei-Chann,Wang Yen-Wen,Liu Chen-Hao.Fuzzy back-propagation network for PCB sales forecasting[J].Advances in Natural Computation,2005,10(36):364-373
[23]Yongtae Do.Segmenting images of occluded humans using a probabilistic netural network[J].Intelligent Computing,2006,4(13):457-462
[24]曹建达 BP神经网络预测棉织物悬垂性能[J],上海纺织科技 2003,4(31):59-60
[25]梅兴波,顾伯洪,BP神经网络方法预测织物拉伸性能[J],东华大学学报(自然科学版),2001(3):64-67
[26]Sette S.,Boullart L.Fault detection and quality assessment in textiles by means of neural nets[J],International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology,1996,1(8):73-83
[27]Park S.W.,Hwang Y.G.and Kang B.C.Total handle evaluation from selected mechanical properties of knitted fabrics using neural network[J].International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology,2001,2(13):104-114
[28]Fan J.,Newton E.,and Au R.,Predicting garment drape with a Fuzzy-Neural Network[J],Textile Res.J.,2001,7(71):605-608
[29]赵玉成 杨静 许庆余,滚动轴承转子系统固有频率识别的BP神经网络法[J],应用力学学报,2008,1(25):146-149
[30]成玲,万振凯,张毅,BP神经网络在织物风格评价中的应用[J],天津工业大学学报,2001,20(3):41-43
[31]张瑞林,人工神经网络评价丝织物风格研究[J],纺织学报,2001,22(1):41-43
[32]张蕾,普杰信,范庆辉,基于遗传算法和BP网络的物体识别方法[J],计算机工程于设计,2008,7(29):1785-1788
[33]孙鸿文,陈庆官Bp神经网络识别服装面料成形性探讨[J],苏州大学学报(工科版),2005,1(25):60-63
[34]Tadashi K.,Abhijit S.Pandya recognition of X-ray images by using revised GMDH-type neural networks[J],Knowledge-Based Intelligent Information and Engineering Systems,2003,2774:849-855
[35]钟跃崎,织物变形形态的可视化模拟技术研究[D],东华大学博士论文,2001
[36]乔林等,0penGL程序设计[M],清华大学出版社,2000
[37]杨允出,基于体形分析的女性虚拟人台建立与服装原型样版定制研究[D],东华大学博士论文,2007
[38]高成英,三位虚拟服装造型与动态仿真技术研究[D],中山大学博士论文,2003
[39]Soo-Won Chae,Gyu-Min Lee,Volume triangulation from plannar cross sections[J],Computer &Structures,1999,72(1-3):93-108
[40]Hyungjun park,Kwangsoo kim,3-D shape reconstruction from 2-D cross-sections[J],Journal of Design and Manufacturing,1995,5:171-185
[41]Andrew E.,Johnson,Control of Polygonal Mesh Resolution for 3D Computer Vision[J],Graphical Models and Image Processing,1998
[42]Dave Shreiner,OpenGL参考手册(第三版)[M],北京:机械工业出版社,2000
[43]Mason Woo,Jackie Neider,OpenGL编程权威指南(第三版)[M],北京:中国电力出版社,2001
[44]陆永良,计算机虚拟现实环境三维服装设计[D],东华大学博士论文,2005
[45]张文斌,等编著,服装立体裁剪[M],北京:中国纺织出版社,1999
[46]范树林,等编著,文化服装讲座(产业篇)[M],北京:中国轻工业出版社,2004
[47]谢季坚,刘承平主编,模糊数学方法及其应用[M],武汉:华中科技大学出版社,2006
[48]Berkan R.C.and Trubatch S.L.Fuzzy Systems Design Principles:Building Fuzzy If-Then Rule Bases[C],IEEE Press,NY,1997
[49]涂向阳,高学平,模糊数学在海水入侵地下水水质评价中的应用[J],水利学报,2003,8(8):64-69
[50]谭炎,张凌燕,MATLAB与VB混合编程技术研究[J],微计算机信息(管控一体化),2006,5(22):246-247
[51]曾小勇,朱素芳,VB和MATLAB混合编程的实现与应用[J],计算机控制、监测与管理,2005,11:89-92
[52]雷长海,杨勇骥,孙巍巍,基于ActiveX技术实现Visual Basic对MATLAB调用的方法研究[J],医疗卫生设备,2007,11(28):75-79
[53]马丽芳,王爱侠,马占源,基于.NET班级学生信息管理的设计与实现[J],电脑知识与技术,2008,2:310-316
[54]教育部考试中心.二级教程——Access数据库程序设计[M],北京:高等教育出版社,2004
[55]王亚彬,贾云献、康建设,装备维修资源需求仿真系统的设计与实现[J],计算机仿真,2007,12(243):269-272
[2]Ashdown S,Loker S.Use of Body Scan Data to Design Sizing Systems Based on Target Markets[J].National Textile Center Annual Report,2001,11:1-5.
[3]Kohn I.L.,Ashdown S.P.,Using Video Capture and Image Analysis to Quantify Apparel Fit[J],Textile Res.J.1998,68(1):17-26
[4]Wang Z.,Newton E.,Ng R.and Zhang W.,Ease distribution in relation to the X-line style jacket.Part 1:Development of a mathematical model[J].The Textile Institute,2006,3(97):247-256
[5]杨允出,基于体形分析的女性虚拟人台建立与服装原型样版定制研究[D],东华大学博士论文,2007
[6]Xu J.,3D virtual garment technology and its development[J],Shanghai Texi.Tech.,2002,30(6):56-59.
[7]Diss J.M.S.,and Gamito M.N.,A discretised linear elastic model for cloth buckling and drape[J],Textile Res.J.,2000,70(4):285-297.
[8]Rudomin I.,Simulating Cloth Using a Mixed Geometric-Physical Method[D],Doctoral dissertation,Department of computer and Information Science,University of Pennsylvania,1990
[9]Xu B.,Huang Y.,Yu W.and Chen T.,Body scanning and modeling for custom fit garments[J],J.Textile and Apparel,Technology and Management,2002,2(2):1-4
[10]Zhang R.Y.and Li R.Q.,3D Data's Picking up and Garment Key Points Getting in Garment CAD[J],J.of China Textile University,200,26(3):48-50.(in Chinese)
[11]Barker R.L.and Hamouda H.,Modeling Heat and Moisture Transport in Firefighter Protective Clothing during Flash Fire Exposure[C],National Textile Center Research Briefs -Management Systems Competency:.June 2004
[12]Song G.W.,Clothing Air Gap layers and Thermal Protective Performance in Single Layer Garment[J].Journal of industrial textile,2007,36(3):193-205
[13]中泽 愈著,袁观洛译,人体与服装[M],中国纺织出版社,1996年第1版第1次:8
[14]Person E A,Standardization of industrial garment fit[J],Industrial Launderer,Oct.,1980,31:81-89
[15]Fan J,Yu W,Hunter L,Clothing appearance and fit:Science and Technology[M],HongKong:Pubished by Woodhead publishing limited,2004
[16]Patorski K,Handbook of the moire Fringe Technique[J],Amsterdam,New York,Elsevier,1993,220-253
[17]Suda N and Takahashi T,Evaluation of drapability by moire topography[J],J Japan Res Asso Tex End Uses,1983,24:209-214
[18]Matsuoka H,Niwa M and Nages S,Evaluation methods for bagging oe garment[J],J Japan Res Assoc Text End-Uses,1984,25:502～509
[19]Matsuoka H,Niwa M and Nagae S,On evaluation methods for wrinkling for using moire topography[J],Japan Res Assoc Text End-Uses,1984,25:34～42
[20]Tanaka M and Doi S,Classification of partial body shape by moire topography[J],Japan Res Assoc Text End-Uses,1982,23:255～261
[21]Tomita A,and Nakaho Y.,An experiment on the ease of the pants(part 1)[J],Japan Res Assoc Text End-Uses,1989,30:133～141
[22]Tomita A,Kazuyo I and Nakaho Y,An experiment on basic dress pattern for aged women,Part 2:The characteristics of the arm form for drawing the flat pattern of the sleeve[J],Japan Res Assoc Text End-Uses,1992,33:434～441
[23]Yu W M,Ng K P,Yan M C and Gu H B,Body scanner,Chinese patent no.ZL01269653.6,granted on 2 October,2002
[24]Yu W M,The effect of polyurethane properties and moulding conditions on the shape characteristic of brassiere cups[D],PhD Thesis,The University of Laads,UK,April,1996
[25]Yu W M,Harlock S C,Leaf G A V and Yeung K W,Instrumental design for capturing three-dimensional moire image[J],Int J Cloth Sci Technol,1997,9(4):301～310
[26]Yu W M,Harlock S C,Leaf G A V and Yeung K W,Enhancement of fringe visibility for three-dimensional moire measure[C],Proc 78th Textile Inst World Conf,23～26 May 1997,2:361～370
[27]Yu W M,Harlock S C,Leaf G A V and Yeung K W,Contour measurements of mould brassiere cups using a shadow moire technique[C],Proc Third Asian Text Conf,Hong Kong,1995,1:300～308
[28]Yu W M,Yeung K W and Lam Y L,Assessment of garment fit[C],Proc of the HKITA and CTES Conf on Hand-in-Hand Marching into 21 Century,Shanghai,China,April 1998,125～129
[29]Pirodda L,Shadow and projection moire techniques for absolute or relative mapping of surface shape[J],Opti Eng,1982,21:640～649
[30]Akiyama T.,Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan,1996,49(60):52～55
[31]Ng R,Cchan C K,Pong T Y and Au R,Objective measurement of the‘fit’of an apparel[C],Proc 77~(th) Text Inst World Conf,May,1996,Tampere,Finland
[32]Miyoshi M.,and Hirokawa T.,Study on the method of a vacant space distance in a worn jacket for clothing pattern design[J],Japan Res Assoc Text End-Uses,2001,42:233~241
[33]Wang Z.H,Study on the relation between garment style and ease distribution[J],Journal of Donghua University,2004,6(21):31-37
[34]Mullet K.K.,The Effects of Shoulder Position on Four Sleeve/Bodice Structures[D],PhD Thesis,Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University,1991
[35]Ng R,Chart C K,Pong T Y and Au R,Shape reconstruction using linear measurement[J],J China Text University(English Edition),1995,12:30-35
[36]Taya Y,Shibuya A and Nakajima T,Evaluation method of clothing fitness with body—Part 1:Evaluation index of clothing fitness[J],J Text Math Soc Japan,1995,48(2):48-55
[37]Taya Y,Shibuya A and Nakajima T,Evaluation method of clothing fitness with body—Part 2:Application of symmetrized dot pattern to the visual characterization of clothing wave form[J],J Text Mach Soc Japan,1995,48(6):51-60
[38]Taya Y,Shibuya A and Nakajima T,'Evaluation method of clothing fitness with body—Part 3:Evaluation by cross-sectional shape of clothing[J],J Text Mach Soe Japan,1995,48(9):225-234
[39]Taya Y,Shibuya A and Nakajima T,Evaluation method of clothing fitness with body—Part 4:Evaluation by waveform spacing between body and clothing[J],J Text Mach Soc Japan,1995,48(11):41-49
[40]Taya Y,Slaibuya A and Nakajima T,Evaluation method of clothing fitness with body—Part 5:Application of wavelet transform to analysis of clothing waveforms[J],J Text Math Soc Japan,1996,49(6):41-49
[41]Taya Y,Shibuya A and Nakajima T,Evaluation method of clothing fitness with body—Part 6:Evaluation of clothing waveforms by wavelet transform[J],J Text Mach Soc Japan,1996,49(6):46-58
[42]Wang Z.H.,Newton E.,Ng R..and Zhang W.Ease distribution in relation to the X-line style jacket.Partl:Application to pattern alteration[J],The Textile Institute,2006,3(97):257-264
[43]Loker S.Z,Ashdown S.,Schoenfelder K.,Size-specific analysis of body scan data to improve apparel fit,Journal of Textile and Apparel[J],Technology and Management,2005,3(4):1-15
[44]Makabe H.,and Momota,H.,The relation between the change inthe upper limb motion and the clothing pattern[J],Japan ResAssoc TextEnd-Uses,1991,32:34-42
[45]Hirokawa T.,and Miyoshi M.,Relations between drafting factors of jacket pattern and wearing feeling of clothing[J],Japan Res Assoc Text End-Uses,1997,38:218-226
[46]Ono K.,Pattern Making[M],Bunka Publishing Bureau,Tokyo,1997
[47]Salim M,Ibrahim,A Psychological scale for fabric stiffness[J].Journal of Textile Institute,1985,76:41-42
[48]吴济宏,于伟东,针织面料压迫舒适性的评价回顾[J],武汉科技学院学报.2006,3(19):1-4
[49]Elizbath M Crowther,Hand of weft knit fabric[J],Textile Res J,1992,62:200-211
[50]Kazuya,Haruko Makable,Sensory Assessment Assessed[J],Textile Asia,1997,21:144-147
[51]Noriko Ito,Haruko Makabe.Effects of clothing pressure Exerted on a Trunk on Heart rate,Blood pressure,Skin Blood Flow and Respiratory Function[J].J Text Math Soe Japan,1995,36:102-108
[52]Ayako Inamura,The buffering action of hygroscopic clothing[J],Text Res J,1995,34:814-816
[53]Wang S W,Prediction of clothing sensory comfort using Neural Networks and Fuzzy logic[D],Doctor Thesis,UK,2002
[54]Denton M J,Fit,Stretch and comfort[C],3rd shirley International Seminar,Text Corn,Manchester,England,1970:15-17
[55]王小兵,姚穆,体育防护用品的压力舒适性及运动功能性探讨[J],西北纺织工学院学报,2001,15(2):22-25
[56]王小兵,服装穿着接触压力舒适的研究[D],西北纺织工学院硕士论文,1998
[57]陈东升,刘丽杰,男子西装的服装压对舒适性评价的研究:服装压与舒适性的关系[J],长春工业大学学报,2002,23(8):131-135
[58]由芳,张欣,紧身服的宽裕量及弹性模量与服装压感的关系[J],西北纺织工学院学报,2000,6(14):133-137
[59]张文斌,胡晓俐,裤装穿着拘束感的相关因子分析[J],中国纺织大学学报,2000,4(26):91-95
[60]丛杉,基于面料物理特征的牛仔裤合体性和穿着舒适性预测判别[D],东华大学博士论文,2007
[61]Yu W,Fan JT,Qian XM and Tao XM,Development of a mannequin for garment pressure evaluation[C],Proc Text Edu Res.:Strategies for the New Millennium,1st AUTEX Conference, Portugal,26-29 June,2001,1:452-457
[62]Watkins P.,Analysis of Stretch Garments[C],Proceedings of the 80~(th) World Conference of the Textile Institute,16-19,April,2000.Manchester,UK
[63]Pechoux B.L.and Ghosh T.K.,Apparel sizing and fit[J],Text Progr,The textile Institute,Manchester,UK,32(1),31
[64]NIMC,Evaluation of size fitness of garments,www.aist.go.ip/NIMC/overview/v17.html
[65]Zhang X.,Yeung K.W.and Li Y.,Numeral simulation of 3-D dynamic garment pressure[J],Text Res J 2002,72(3):245-252.
[66]日本纤维机械学会,布の風合い[M],大阪:纤维机械学会,1972
[67]川端,風合い評價の標準化と解析(第2版)[M],大阪:纤维机械学会,1980
[68]川端季雄,风格的标准化及分析[M],日本大阪:日本纤维机械学会,1980
[69]Lloyd D.W.,The Analysis of Complex Fabric Deformation in Mechanics of Flexible Fibre Assemblies[M],Sijthoff & Noordhoff Inl'l Publishers B.B.,1980,:311-342
[70]Kawabata S.& Niwa M.,Fabric performance in clothing and clothing manufacture[J].J Text Inst,1989,80:19-49
[71]潘宁,织物触觉风格的客观评价[D],中国纺织大学博士论文,1985
[72]Pan N.,Yen K.C.,Zhao S.J.,A new approach to the objective measurement of fabrics handle from mechanics properties-Part Ⅰ[J].Textile,Res.J.1988,58(8):438-443
[73]Pan N.,Yen K.C.,Zhao S.J.et al,A new approach to the objective measurement of fabrics handle from mechanics properties—Part Ⅱ[J].Textile,Res.J,1988,58(8):531-537
[74]徐一耿,织物结构力学理论发展的现状、问题和对策[J],力学与实践,1996,18(1):9-12
[75]Amirbayat J.and Hearle J.W.S.,The Anatomy of Bucking of Textile Fabrics:Drape and Conformavility[J],J.Text.Inst.,1989,80:51-69
[76]Brown P.R.,Buchanan D.R.,and Clapp T.G.,Large-Deflection Bending of Woven Fabric for Automated Material Handling[J],J.Text.Inst.,1990,81:1-14
[77]Clapp T.G.and Peng H.,Buckling of Woven Fabric,Part Ⅰ:Effect of Fabric Weight[J],Textile Res.J.,1990,60:228-234;
[78]Clapp T.G.and Peng H.,Buckling of Woven Fabric,Part Ⅱ:Effect of Weight Frictional Couple[J],Textile Res.J.,1990,60:285-292
[79]钟跃崎,织物变形形态的可视化模拟技术研究[D],东华大学:博士论文,200l
[80]纪峰,织物悬垂性静动态视觉仿真及效果评价[D],东华大学:博士论文,2005
[81]Ji F.Li R.Q.Qiu Y.P.,Three-dimensional Garment Simulation Based on a mass-spring system[J],Textile Res.J.2006,76(1):12-17
[82]Kawabata S.& Niwa M.,Tailoring process control[J],J Text Inst,1992,83:361-373
[83]王府梅,织物风格设计系统的基础研究[D],奈良女子大学博士学位论文,1996
[84]陈东升,织物物理力学性能及其风格关系的基础研究[D],中国纺织大学博士论文,1997
[85]燕飞,织物与纱线弯曲性能研究[D],东华大学硕士论文,1999
[86]徐光标,精纺毛型织物弯曲和剪切性能研究[D],东华大学硕士论文,2002
[87]Wang E M.Xu G.B.Xu B.G.,Perdition of the sheafing rigidity of woven fabric[J].Textile Res.J.,2004(10)
[88]庄鄂,织物表面摩擦性能的预测研究[D],东华大学硕士论文,200l
[891吴小琴,织物压缩性能的研究[D],东华大学硕士论文,2001
[90]Hearle J.W.S.,For Composites:Virtrtual Reality and Fabric Mechanics[J],Textile Horizons,April,1995:12-15
[9l]董孚云,织物结构力学中几个问题研究的进展[J],纺织基础科学学报,1991,4(1):64-70
[92]Fan J.,Newton E.,and Au R.,Predicting garment drape with a Fuzzy-Neural Network[J],Textile Res.J.,2001,7(71):605-608
[93]Park S W,Hwang Y G,Kang B C.Applying fuzzy logic and neural networks to total hand evaluation of knitted fabrics[J].Textile Res.J.2001,70(8):675-681
[94]Jai S.S.,Objective evaluation model of visual elegance of swirl skirts Partl Regression method[J],J Text Mach See Japan,2003,1(56):51-56,10(16):51-56
[95]Lai S.S.,Objective evaluation model of visual elegance of swirl skirts Part2 Neural Network method[J],J Text Math See Japan,2003,7(57):57-61
[96]Sidabraite V.,Masteikaite V.,A preliminary study for evaluation of skirt asymmetric drape[J],International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology,2002,5(14):286-298
[97]Wang Z.H.Ng R.,Newton E.and Zhang W.B.,Modeling of Cross-sectional Shape for Women's Jacket Design[J],Journal of the Textile Machinery Society of Japan,2007,4(63):87-96
[98]章永红,袁观洛,张怀珠,织物性能与服装外观优劣的判别分析[J],纺织学报,2002,1(23):76-78
[99]倪红,大波浪斜裙的裙摆下垂问题研究[J],丝绸,2003,2:44-46
[100]巴桂玲,服装特殊结构的立体构成与影响因素分析[D],东华大学硕士学位论文,2007
[101]唐虹,基于面料物理力学性能的半紧身裙造型风格特征主客观评价与预测[D],东华大学博士论文,2008年
[1]Gazzuolo E,Delong M,Lohr S,La Bat K and Bye EEE,Predicting garment pattern dimensions form photographic and anthropometric data[J],Appl Ergon,1992,23(3):161～171
[2]Pirodda L,Principil e applicazioni di un metodo foto-grammetrico garment basato sull impiego del moire[J],Rivista di Ingegneria,1969,12:913～923
[3]Paquette S,3D Scanning in apparel design and human engineering[J],IEEE Computer Graph Appl,1996,16(5) 11～15
[4]Crawford F J,Electro-Optical Sensor Overview[J],IEEE AES System Magazine,1998,10:17～24
[5]Waack G F,An Introduction to Stereo Photo Technology and Practical Suggestion for Stereo Photography[EB],http://www.Stereoscopy.com/ A.Klein,1985
[6]Tae J K and Sung M K,Optimized Garment Pattern Generation Based on Three-Dimensional Anthropometric Measurement[J],Int.J Cloth Science Technology,2000,12(4).240-245
[7]Mckinnon L and Istook C L,The effects of subject respiration and foot positioning on the data integrity of scanned measurements[J],J Fashion Marketing and Management,2002,6(2):103～121
[8]Bougourd J P,Dekker L.Ross P G and Ward J P,A Comparison of Women's Sizing by 3D Electronic Scanning and Traditional Anthropometry[J],J Text Inst,2000,91(2) 163～173
[9]Daanen H A M and Jeroen-wan-de-Water G,Whole body scanner,Displays,1998,19 111～120
[10]Brunsman M A,Daanen H M and Robinette K M,Optimal postures and positioning for human body scanning[P],Proc.Int.Conf Recent Advances in 3-D Digital Imaging and Modeling (Cat.No.97TB100134),Los Alamitos,CA,USA and Ottawa,Ontario,Canada,IEEE Computer Soc Press,1997
[11]Daanen H A M,Brunsman M A and Robinette K M,Reducing movement artifacts in whole body scanning[P],Proc Int Conf Recent Advances in 3D Digital Imaging and Modeling(Cat.No.97TB100134),Los Alamitos,CA,USA and Ottawa,Ontario,Canada,IEEE Comput Soc Press,1997
[12]Corner B and Hu A.,Effect of sway on image fidelity in whole body digitizing[J],The International Society for Optical Engineering,1998,33(13):90-99
[13]Simmons K P.,Body measurement techniques:a comparison of three-dimensional body scanning and physical anthropometric methods[D],PHD Thesis,College of Textiles,North Carolina State University,2001
[14]Geisen G R,Automatic detection,identification,and registration of anatomical landmarks form 3D laser digitizer body segment scans[C],IEEE 17~(th) Annual Conf 1995,Scan Jose,CA,USA,Engineering in Medicine and Biology Society,1995
[15]Lewark E A and Nurre J H,Automated fudicial labeling on human body data[J],The International Society for Optical Engineering,1998,33(13):82-89
[16]李惠敏,面向电子化量身订制服装E-MTM三维人体测量数据库的研究与实现[D],东华大学硕士论文,2005
[17]赛博科技工作室,VRML与Java编程技术[M],北京:人民邮电出版社,2002
[18]夏明,基于MTM的男上装样版快速生成系统研究[D],东华大学硕士论文,2005年
[19]杨允出,基于体形分析的女性虚拟人台建立与服装原型样版定制研究[D],东华大学博士论文,2007年
[20]读取DXF格式文件,网址:http://www.qqgb.com/VC/VCJQ/,2007
[21]Douros T.,Dekker I.,Buxton B.,Reconstruction of the surface of the human body from 3D scanner data using B-splines[J],SPIE proceedings,1999,1(36):40-45
[1]Wang Z.H,Study on the relation between garment style and ease distribution[J],Journal of Donghua University,2004,6(21):31-37
[2]Miyoshi M.,Hirokawa T,Study on the Method of a Vacant Space Distance in a Worn Jacket for Clothing Pattern Design[J],Journal of the Japan research association for textile end-uses,200142(4):233-241
[3]Ng R,Cchan C K,Pong T Y and Au R,Objective measurement of the 'fit' of an apparel[C],Proc 77~(th) Text Inst World Conf,May,1996,Tampere,Finland
[4]Mullet K.K.,The Effects of Shoulder Position on Four Sleeve/Bodice Structures[D],PhD Thesis,Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University,1991
[5]Wang Z.,Newton E.,Ng R.and Zhang W.,Ease distribution in relation to the X-line style jacket.Part 1:Development of a mathematical model[J].The Textile Institute,2006,3(97):247-256
[6]王霄 等,逆向工程技术及其应用[M],化学工业出版社,2004
[7]朱心雄 等,自由曲线曲面造型技术[M],北京:清华大学出版社,1990
[8]付世波,袁修干,基于B样条曲面的人体模型的建立[J],计算机学报,1998,21(12):1131-1135
[9]吴晓燕,基于NURBS的三维人体自由曲面造型技术研究及开发[D],北京服装学院硕士学位论文,2002
[10]李红燕,基于人体特征线的人台曲面分片拟合造型研究[D],北京服装学院硕士学位论文,2004
[11]周华,构造裂缝的评价与软件设计[D],成都理工大学硕士论文,2006
[12]何光渝主编,Java常用数值算法集(1CD)[M],科学出版社,2002
[13]颜何生,二元三点拉格朗日插值法在水能计算中的应用[J],中国科技信息,2005,13:92-95
[14]刘爱奎,段奇,杜世田,插值曲线区域控制的加权有理插值方法[J],计算机辅助设计与图形学学报,2007,7(12):497-501
[15]欧阳峥峥 等主编,数据库应用技术——Visual Basic及其应用系统开发[M],中国水利水电出版社,2005
[16](日本)文化服装学院编、张祖芳等译,服饰造型讲座 1·服饰造型基础tM],上海:东华大学出版社,2005
[17]张文斌 等主编,服装结构设计[M],北京:中国纺织出版社,2006
[18]冯翼 等主编,服装技术手册[M],上海:上海科学技术文献出版社,2005
[19]李峰,等主编,excel2007图解入门与实例应用[M],北京:中国铁道出版社,2008
[20]徐继红,张文斌,肖平,人体与服装特征曲面间面积松量的分怖关系[J],纺织学报,2008,5(29):102-106
[21]庄楚强 等主编,应用数理统计基础[M],广州:华南理工大学出版社,2002
[1]王府梅 服装面料的性能设计[M],东华大学出版社,2005
[2]川端季雄,风格的标准化及其分析,第2版,大阪:日本纤维机械学会,1980
[3]CSIRO Australia,Fast Instruction Manual,1994.
[4]绫田雅子,织物的力学性能与服装的外观轮廓特征的研究[D],日本国立奈良女子大学博士论文,1995
[5]Ayada M,Miki M and Niwa M.International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology.1991,3(3):18-27.
[6]Kawabata S,Niwa M.International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology.1992,4(5):34-44.
[7]Niwa M,Wang F and Kawabata S.Fabric Hand and the optimum Silhouette Design for Ladies Dress.第21回纤维工学讨论会论文集,日本大阪,日本纤维机械学会,1992,122-127
[8]Niwa M,Wang F.An Analysis of The Quality Assessment of Ladies Garment Fabric.第一届西安国际毛纺织讨论会论文集,中国纺织工程学会,1994,266-280
[9]于伟东 等主编,纺织材料学(普通高等教育十五国家级规划教材)[M],北京:中国纺织出版社,2006
[10]余建英 等,数据统计分析与SPSS应用[M],北京:人民邮电出版社,2005
[11]张文彤 等主编,SPSS11统计分析教程(基础篇)[M],北京:北京希望电子出版社,2002
[12]张文彤 等主编,SPSS11统计分析教程(高级篇)[M],北京:北京希望电子出版社,2002
[13]范金城,梅长林,数据分析[M],北京:科学出版社,2002
[14]Fan Jin-tu,Clothing Appearance and Fit,2004上海国际服装文化节国际服装论坛论文集,2004,134-139
[15]Charlie C.L.,Wang et al.Virtual human modeling from photographs for garment industry[J],Computer-Aided Design,2003,35:577-589.
[16]Sul I.H.,Kang T.J.Improvemet of drape simulation speed using constrained fabric collision [J],International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology 2004,1/2(16):43-50.
[17]Wang Z.H,Study on the relation between garment style and ease distribution[J],Journal of Donghua University,2004,6(21):31-37
[18]Loker S.Z,Ashdown S.,Schoenfelder K.,Size-specific analysis of body scan data to improve apparel fit,Journal of Textile and Apparel[J],Technology and Management,2005,3(4):1-15
[19]Sidabraite V.,Masteikaite V.,A preliminary study for evaluation of skirt asymmetric drape[J],International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology,2002,5(14):286-298
[20]Lai S.S.,Objective evaluation model of visual elegance of swirl skirts Part1 Regression method[J],J Text Mach Soc Japan,2003,1(56):51-56,10(16):51-56.
[21]Lai S.S.,Objective evaluation model of visual elegance of swirl skirts Part2 Neural Network method[J],J Text Mach Soc Japan,2003,7(57):57-61.
[22]Taya Y,Shibuya A and Nakajima T,'Evaluation method of clothing fitness with body—Part 5:Application of wavelet transform to analysis of clothing waveforms'[J],J Text Mach Soc Japan,1996,49(6):41-49.
[23]Taya Y,Shibuya A and Nakajima T,'Evaluation method of clothing fitness with body—Part 6:Evaluation of clothing waveforms by wavelet transform'[J],J Text Mach Soc Japan,1996,49(6):46-58.
[24]巴桂玲 服装特殊结构的立体构成与影响因素分析[D],东华大学硕士学位论文,2007
[25]Park S.W.,Hwang Y.G.and Kang B.C.A fuzzy application to fabric hand evaluation(Ⅰ):applicationto double weft-knitted fabrics[J],J.Korean Fiber Soc.,1996 33:849-854
[26]Park S.W.,Hwang Y.G.and Kang B.C.A fuzzy application to fabric hand evaluation(Ⅲ):applicationto double weft-knitted fabrics[J],J.Korean Fiber Soc.,1998 35:119-124
[27]Park S.W.,Hwang Y.G.and Kang B.C.Studies on the mechanical properties and hand of double knitted fabric[J],J.Korean Fiber Sot.,1995 32:859-868
[28]Park S.W.,Hwang Y.G.,Measuring and fuzzy predicting total handle from selected mechanical properties of double weft-knitted fabrics[J],Textile Res.J.,1999 69:19-24
[29]Park S.W.,Hwang Y.G.and Kang B.C.A fuzzy application to fabrics hand evaluation(Ⅱ):application to polyester fabric in Korea[J],J.Korean Fiber Soc,1997 34:85-89
[30]Gong,R.H.Quality measurement of knitted apparel fabric[J],Textile Res.J.,1995,65:5449
[1]刘艳君,刘素英,毛针织服装风格综合评价中主因子的确定[J],毛纺科技,2005(7):5-8
[2]刘艳君,韩红爽,毛针织服装风格客观评价的研究[J],毛纺科技,2005(8):32-35
[3]杨淑霞,吕世森,乔艳芬,用电客户信用的主客观评价及分析[J],中国电力,2005,6(38):1-4
[4]林逸,张昕,施国标,汽车专项感觉主观评价试验方法综述[J],公路交通科技,2007,2(24):130-134
[5]聂静涛,群体多属性决策方法及其应用[J],南京航空航天大学学报,2006,4(38):524-528
[6]朱赤晖,李念平,文伟,室内空气品质主观评价的灰色关联分析[J],广州大学学报(自然科学版),2003,3(2):273-276
[7]王革辉,赵涛,织物刺痒感的主观评价研究[J],毛纺科技,2007,4:52-55
[8]李毅,纺织品热湿舒适性能测试方法研究[J],纺织学报,1983,12:5-9
[9]李亚娟,丁雪梅,辛洁,吸湿快干型服装穿着热湿舒适性主客观评价一致性研究[J],山东纺织科技,2006,6:48-51
[10]Shinoa Hiroyuki,Asamura Naoya,Tomori Naruyuki.Tactile feeling display based on selective stimulation to skin machanoreceptors[C].IEEE International Conference on Robotics and Automation V1 1998.IEEE,Piscataway,NJ,USA,98CH36146:680-683
[11]吴喜之 等著,非参数统计方法[M],中国统计出版社,1996
[12]王静龙 梁小筠编著,非参数统计分析(高等学校统计类系列教材)[M],高等教育出版社,2006
[13]高隽,人工神经网络原理及仿真实例[M],北京:机械工业出版社,2003
[14]郑君里 等著,人工神经网络[M],北京:高等教育出版社,1991
[15]Kohonen T.An introduction to neural computing[J],Neural Networks,1988,1:3-16
[16]Vangheluwe L.,Sieben G.,Boullart L.The classiflication of brain tumours by a topological map[C],Proceedings of the International Neural Network Conference 90 Paris 1990
[17]Fausett L.Fundamentals of Neural Networks:Architectures,Algorithms and Applications[D],Prentice Hall International,Inc.,NY,1994
[18]飞思科技产品研发中心编著,神经网络理论与MATLAB实现[M],北京:电子工业出版社,2005
[19]丛爽编著,面向MATLAB工具箱的神经网络理论与应用[M],北京:中国科学技术出版社,2003
[20]唐虹,基于面料物理力学性能的半紧身群造型风格特征主客观评价与预测[D],东华大学博士论文,2008
[21]Forti M.,Nistri P,Quincampoix M.Generalized neural network for unsmooth nonlinear programming problem[J].IEEE Trans,2004,51:1741-1754
[22]Chang Pei-Chann,Wang Yen-Wen,Liu Chen-Hao.Fuzzy back-propagation network for PCB sales forecasting[J].Advances in Natural Computation,2005,10(36):364-373
[23]Yongtae Do.Segmenting images of occluded humans using a probabilistic netural network[J].Intelligent Computing,2006,4(13):457-462
[24]曹建达 BP神经网络预测棉织物悬垂性能[J],上海纺织科技 2003,4(31):59-60
[25]梅兴波,顾伯洪,BP神经网络方法预测织物拉伸性能[J],东华大学学报(自然科学版),2001(3):64-67
[26]Sette S.,Boullart L.Fault detection and quality assessment in textiles by means of neural nets[J],International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology,1996,1(8):73-83
[27]Park S.W.,Hwang Y.G.and Kang B.C.Total handle evaluation from selected mechanical properties of knitted fabrics using neural network[J].International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology,2001,2(13):104-114
[28]Fan J.,Newton E.,and Au R.,Predicting garment drape with a Fuzzy-Neural Network[J],Textile Res.J.,2001,7(71):605-608
[29]赵玉成 杨静 许庆余,滚动轴承转子系统固有频率识别的BP神经网络法[J],应用力学学报,2008,1(25):146-149
[30]成玲,万振凯,张毅,BP神经网络在织物风格评价中的应用[J],天津工业大学学报,2001,20(3):41-43
[31]张瑞林,人工神经网络评价丝织物风格研究[J],纺织学报,2001,22(1):41-43
[32]张蕾,普杰信,范庆辉,基于遗传算法和BP网络的物体识别方法[J],计算机工程于设计,2008,7(29):1785-1788
[33]孙鸿文,陈庆官Bp神经网络识别服装面料成形性探讨[J],苏州大学学报(工科版),2005,1(25):60-63
[34]Tadashi K.,Abhijit S.Pandya recognition of X-ray images by using revised GMDH-type neural networks[J],Knowledge-Based Intelligent Information and Engineering Systems,2003,2774:849-855
[35]钟跃崎,织物变形形态的可视化模拟技术研究[D],东华大学博士论文,2001
[36]乔林等,0penGL程序设计[M],清华大学出版社,2000
[37]杨允出,基于体形分析的女性虚拟人台建立与服装原型样版定制研究[D],东华大学博士论文,2007
[38]高成英,三位虚拟服装造型与动态仿真技术研究[D],中山大学博士论文,2003
[39]Soo-Won Chae,Gyu-Min Lee,Volume triangulation from plannar cross sections[J],Computer &Structures,1999,72(1-3):93-108
[40]Hyungjun park,Kwangsoo kim,3-D shape reconstruction from 2-D cross-sections[J],Journal of Design and Manufacturing,1995,5:171-185
[41]Andrew E.,Johnson,Control of Polygonal Mesh Resolution for 3D Computer Vision[J],Graphical Models and Image Processing,1998
[42]Dave Shreiner,OpenGL参考手册(第三版)[M],北京:机械工业出版社,2000
[43]Mason Woo,Jackie Neider,OpenGL编程权威指南(第三版)[M],北京:中国电力出版社,2001
[44]陆永良,计算机虚拟现实环境三维服装设计[D],东华大学博士论文,2005
[45]张文斌,等编著,服装立体裁剪[M],北京:中国纺织出版社,1999
[46]范树林,等编著,文化服装讲座(产业篇)[M],北京:中国轻工业出版社,2004
[47]谢季坚,刘承平主编,模糊数学方法及其应用[M],武汉:华中科技大学出版社,2006
[48]Berkan R.C.and Trubatch S.L.Fuzzy Systems Design Principles:Building Fuzzy If-Then Rule Bases[C],IEEE Press,NY,1997
[49]涂向阳,高学平,模糊数学在海水入侵地下水水质评价中的应用[J],水利学报,2003,8(8):64-69
[50]谭炎,张凌燕,MATLAB与VB混合编程技术研究[J],微计算机信息(管控一体化),2006,5(22):246-247
[51]曾小勇,朱素芳,VB和MATLAB混合编程的实现与应用[J],计算机控制、监测与管理,2005,11:89-92
[52]雷长海,杨勇骥,孙巍巍,基于ActiveX技术实现Visual Basic对MATLAB调用的方法研究[J],医疗卫生设备,2007,11(28):75-79
[53]马丽芳,王爱侠,马占源,基于.NET班级学生信息管理的设计与实现[J],电脑知识与技术,2008,2:310-316
[54]教育部考试中心.二级教程——Access数据库程序设计[M],北京:高等教育出版社,2004
[55]王亚彬,贾云献、康建设,装备维修资源需求仿真系统的设计与实现[J],计算机仿真,2007,12(243):269-272