海南岛东北部海岸极端波浪事件沉积记录
|
摘要
建立长时间尺度台风序列对于预测未来超强台风的活动规律具有重要科学和实践意义。历史上影响海南岛地区的台风十分频繁,但因缺少确切而详实的记载往往无法判断其是否为超强台风,因此迫切需要寻找千百年尺度的超强台风沉积记录。本文对海南岛东北部翁田镇沿海地区进行详细野外调查,选定白石堡海岸沙丘剖面为研究对象,在该沙丘剖面中识别出风暴越岸沉积和海滩岩巨砾沉积。根据沉积学分析和动力过程分析,这两种类型沉积极有可能是由历史上的台风事件形成,形成年代可能达到距今3 400 a;将该沉积层中的海滩岩巨砾与台风"威马逊"搬运的最大海滩岩巨砾进行对比,发现形成该沉积层海滩岩巨砾的台风事件强度应比台风"威马逊"更强,表明该区域历史上超强台风的存在,这对建立千百年尺度的台风序列有很重要的意义。同时,研究区岸外珊瑚岸礁发育良好,动力分析表明礁坪宽度对于波浪消减、海岸防护具有显著作用。然而,随着海南岛珊瑚岸礁日益衰亡、风暴强度逐渐加大和海面持续上升,未来海南岛地区的海岸极端风浪危害和海岸侵蚀形式威胁正日益加大,亟待加强海南岛珊瑚岸礁保护。
Identifying typhoon sequences on large time scales is of great scientific and practical significance to predict the super typhoon activities in the future. Although the high frequency of typhoon occurrence in Hainan Island in history is well known, it is difficult to determine the frequency of occurrence of the rare events like the Rammasun typhoon because of lack of detailed historical records. Here we use the sedimentary record, in combination with the information on the present-day events, i.e., the Rammasun typhoon, to define the typhoon intensity and identify the super typhoons that occurred in the past. A detailed field investigation was conducted in the coastal area near Wengtian Town, northeastern Hainan Island. We discovered storm beach-rock boulders and storm over-wash sediments interbedded within the coast dune sequence on the northeastern coast of Hainan Island. Base on laboratory and sediment dynamic analyses, we propose that the deposits were generated by super typhoon events, perhaps as early as 3 400 a BP. We find that the intensity of the typhoon that created these deposits was stronger than the Rammasun typhoon, which is of great significance to the reconstruction of typhoon sequences on millennial/centennial scales. Hydrodynamic analysis indicates that the wide reef flat in front of the beaches and coastal dunes plays a significant role in coast protection. Thus, the regional coral reef degeneration that is taking place now, together with likely intensified storms in response to climate change and future sea level rise, will become an enhanced risk of coastal erosion.
Identifying typhoon sequences on large time scales is of great scientific and practical significance to predict the super typhoon activities in the future. Although the high frequency of typhoon occurrence in Hainan Island in history is well known, it is difficult to determine the frequency of occurrence of the rare events like the Rammasun typhoon because of lack of detailed historical records. Here we use the sedimentary record, in combination with the information on the present-day events, i.e., the Rammasun typhoon, to define the typhoon intensity and identify the super typhoons that occurred in the past. A detailed field investigation was conducted in the coastal area near Wengtian Town, northeastern Hainan Island. We discovered storm beach-rock boulders and storm over-wash sediments interbedded within the coast dune sequence on the northeastern coast of Hainan Island. Base on laboratory and sediment dynamic analyses, we propose that the deposits were generated by super typhoon events, perhaps as early as 3 400 a BP. We find that the intensity of the typhoon that created these deposits was stronger than the Rammasun typhoon, which is of great significance to the reconstruction of typhoon sequences on millennial/centennial scales. Hydrodynamic analysis indicates that the wide reef flat in front of the beaches and coastal dunes plays a significant role in coast protection. Thus, the regional coral reef degeneration that is taking place now, together with likely intensified storms in response to climate change and future sea level rise, will become an enhanced risk of coastal erosion.
引文
[1] Diaz H F,Pulwary R S.Hurricanes:Climate and Socioeconomics Impacts[M].Berlin:Spring-Verlag,1997.
[2] Emanuel K.Increasing destructiveness of tropical cyclones over the past 30 years[J].Nature,2005,436(7051):686-688.
[3] Landsea C W.Meteorology:hurricanes and global warming[J].Nature,2005,438(7071):E11-E12.
[4] Donnelly J P,Woodruff J D.Intense hurricane activity over the past 5,000 years controlled by El Niňo and the West African monsoon[J].Nature,2007,447(7143):465-468.
[5] Vecchi G A,Villarini G.Next season’s hurricanes[J].Science,2014,343(6171):618-619.
[6] Stocker T,Qin D,Plattner G K,et al.Technical summary[M]//Stocker T,Qin D,Plattner G K,et al.Climate Change 2013:The Physical Science Basis.Contribution of Working Group I to the Fifth Assessment Report of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change.Cambridge,United Kingdom and New York,NY,USA:Cambridge University Press,2013:159-254.
[7] Huigen M G A,Jens I C.Socio-economic impact of super typhoon harurot in San Mariano,Isabela,the Philippines[J].World Development,2006,34(12):2116-2136.
[8] Mori N,Kato M,Kim S,et al.Local amplification of storm surge by super typhoon Haiyan in Leyte Gulf[J].Geophysical Research Letters,2014,41(14):5106-5113.
[9] 廖淦标,范代读.全球变暖是否导致台风增强:古风暴学研究进展与启示[J].科学通报,2008,53(13):1489-1502.Liu K,Fan Daidu.Perspectives on the linkage between typhoon activity and global warming from recent research advances in paleotempestology[J].Chinese Science Bulletin,2008,53(19):2907-2922.
[10] Zhou Liang,Gao Shu,Yang Yang,et al.Typhoon events recorded in coastal lagoon deposits,southeastern Hainan Island[J].Acta Oceanologica Sinica,2017,36(4):37-45.
[11] 周亮,高抒,杨阳,等.海南岛东南部海湾350年古风暴事件沉积与历史文献记录对比[J].海洋学报,2015,37(9):84-94.Zhou Liang,Gao Shu,Yang Yang,et al.Comparison of paleostorm events between sedimentary and historical archives:A 350 year record from southeastern Hainan Island coastal embayments[J].Haiyang Xuebao,2015,37(9):84-94.
[12] Donnelly J P,Roll S,Wengren M,et al.Sedimentary evidence of intense hurricane strikes from New Jersey[J].Geology,2001,29(7):615-618.
[13] Liu K,Fearn M L.Lake-sediment record of late Holocene hurricane activities from coastal Alabama[J].Geology,1993,21(9):793-796.
[14] Liu K,Fearn M L.Reconstruction of prehistoric landfall frequencies of catastrophic hurricanes in northwestern Florida from lake sediment records[J].Quaternary Research,2000,54(2):238-245.
[15] Hayne M O,Chappell J.Cyclone frequency during the last 5000 years at Curacoa Island,north Queensland,Australia[J].Palaeogeography,Palaeoclimatology,Palaeoecology,2001,168(3/4):207-219.
[16] Nott J,Hayne M.High frequency of ‘super-cyclones’ along the Great Barrier Reef over the past 5,000 years[J].Nature,2001,413(6855):508-512.
[17] Yu Kefu,Zhao Jianxin,Collerson K D,et al.Storm cycles in the last millennium recorded in Yongshu Reef,southern South China Sea[J].Palaeogeography,Palaeoclimatology,Palaeoecology,2004,210(1):89-100.
[18] Bourrouilh-Le Jan F G,Talandier J.Major high-energy events in a reef environment:tsunamis,hurricanes and tropical cyclones and their effects on the sedimentology and geomorphology of an atoll:Rangiroa,Tuamotu (SE Pacific)[J].Marine Geology,1985,37(3/4):263-272.
[19] Young R W,Bryant E A.Catastrophic wave erosion on the southeastern coast of Australia:Impact of the Lanai tsunamis ca.105 ka?[J].Geology,1992,20(3):199-202.
[20] Spiske M,B?r?cz Z,Bahlburg H.The role of porosity in discriminating between tsunami and hurricane emplacement of boulders—a case study from the Lesser Antilles,southern Caribbean[J].Earth and Planetary Science Letters,2008,268(3/4):384-396.
[21] Yu Kefu,Zhao Jianxin,Shi Qi,et al.Reconstruction of storm/tsunami records over the last 4000 years using transported coral blocks and lagoon sediments in the southern South China Sea[J].Quaternary International,2009,195(1/2):128-137.
[22] Ferrario F,Beck M W,Storlazzi C D,et al.The effectiveness of coral reefs for coastal hazard risk reduction and adaptation[J].Nature Communications,2014,5(5):3794.
[23] 邵超.海滩—珊瑚礁海岸侵蚀及适应性管理研究[D].厦门:国家海洋局第三海洋研究所,2016.Shao Chao.Study on coastal erosion of beach-coral system and its adaptive management[D].Xiamen:Third Institute of Oceanography,State Oceanic Administration,2016.
[24] 朱锁风.海南台风[M].北京:气象出版社,1994.Zhu Suofeng.Hainan Typhoon[M].Beijing:China Meteorological Press,1994.
[25] 郑艳,蔡亲波,程守长,等.超强台风“威马逊”(1409)强度和降水特征及其近海急剧加强原因[J].暴雨灾害,2014,33(4):333-341.Zheng Yan,Cai Qinbo,Cheng Shouchang,et al.Characteristics on intensity and precipitation of super typhoon Rammasun (1409) and reason why it rapidly intensified offshore[J].Torrential Rain and Disasters,2014,33(4):333-341.
[26] 刘蕾,陈茂钦,李煜,等.超强台风“威马逊”近海急剧加强特征及诊断分析[J].气象科技,2015,43(6):1149-1156.Liu Lei,Chen Maoqin,Li Yu,et al.Features and diagnostic analysis of rapid intensity change of super typhoon Rammasun over China offshore waters[J].Meteorological Science and Technology,2015,43(6):1149-1156.
[27] 陈寒松.海南省千年自然灾害史料集[M].海口:海南出版社,1995.Chen Hansong.Natural Disasters Historical Dataset of Hainan[M].Haikou:Hainan Publishing House,1995.
[28] 王颖.海南潮汐汊道港湾海岸[M].北京:中国环境科学出版社,1998.Wang Ying.Hainan Tidal Inlet Harbor Coast[M].Beijing:China Environmental Science Press,1998.
[29] 张明书,刘键,李浩,等.海南岛周缘珊瑚礁的基本特征和成礁时代[J].海洋地质与第四纪地质,1990,10(2):25-43.Zhang Mingshu,Liu Jian,Li Hao,et al.Basic characteristics and formation time of peripheral coral reefs in Hainan Island[J].Marine Geology & Quaternary Geology,1990,10(2):25-43.
[30] 吴正,吴克刚.海南岛东北部海岸沙丘的沉积构造特征及其发育模式[J].地理学报,1987,54(2):129-141.Wu Zheng,Wu Kegang.Sedimentary structure and developing model of coastal dunes along the northeastern coast of Hainan Island,China[J].Acta Geographica Sinica,1987,54(2):129-141.
[31] 屠佳雨,高抒,周亮,等.海南岛东部台风重现期及其时空分布特征[J].第四纪研究,2016,36(1):184-195.Tu Jiayu,Gao Shu,Zhou Liang,et al.Return periods and special-temporal distribution patterns of typhoons affecting in eastern Hainan Island[J].Quaternary Sciences,2016,36(1):184-195.
[32] 中华人民共和国国家统计局,中华人民共和国民政部.中国灾情报告[M].北京:中国统计出版社,1949-1995.National Statistics Bureau of the People's Republic of China,Ministry of Civil Affairs of the People's Republic of China.Report of the Damage Caused by Disaster in China[M].Beijing:China Statistics Press,1949-1995.
[33] 殷勇,朱大奎,Martini I P.探地雷达(GPR)在海南岛东北部海岸带调查中的应用[J].第四纪研究,2006,26(3):462-469.Yin Yong,Zhu Dakui,Martini I P.Application of ground-penetrating radar in coastal survey of northeastern Hainan Island[J].Quaternary Sciences,2006,26(3):462-469.
[34] 佚名.文昌市翁田镇:加强农村基础工作提高农民生活水平[J].今日海南,2010(10):52.Anonymous.Wengtian Town,Wenchang City:Strengthening basic work in rural areas,improving the living standards of farmers[J].Hainan Today Magazine,2010(10):52.
[35] 吴钟解,吴瑞,王道儒,等.海南岛东、南部珊瑚礁生态健康状况初步分析[J].热带作物学报,2011,32(1):122-130.Wu Zhongjie,Wu Rui,Wang Daoru,et al.A preminary study on the status of coral reef health in the southeast coastal regions of Hainan Island[J].Chinese Journal of Tropical Crops,2011,32(1):122-130.
[36] 吴钟解,陈石泉,陈敏,等.海南岛造礁石珊瑚资源初步调查与分析[J].海洋湖沼通报,2013(2):44-50.Wu Zhongjie,Chen Shiquan,Chen Min,et al.Preliminary survey and analysis of the resources of hermatypic corals in Hainan Island[J].Transactions of Oceanology and Limnology,2013(2):44-50.
[37] 蔡泽富,陈石泉,吴钟解,等.海南岛东北部沿岸造礁石珊瑚时空分布特征[J].海洋湖沼通报,2015(3):78-86.Cai Zefu,Chen Shiquan,Wu Zhongjie,et al.The spatial and temporal distribution characteristics of hermatypic corals in the coastal waters of northeastern Hainan Island[J].Transactions of Oceanology and Limnology,2015(3):78-86.
[38] Folk R L,Ward W C.Brazos River bar:a study in the significance of grain size parameters[J].Journal of Sedimentary Research,1957,27(1):3-26.
[39] Stuiver M K,Reimer P J,Braziunas T F.High precision radiocarbon age calibration for terrestrial and marine samples[J].Radiocarbon,1998,40(3):580-589.
[40] Mase H.Random wave runup height on gentle slope[J].Journal of Waterway,Port,Coastal,and Ocean Engineering,1989,115(5):649-661.
[41] Stockdon H F,Holman R A,Howd P A,et al.Empirical parameterization of setup,swash,and runup[J].Coastal Engineering,2006,53(7):573-588.
[42] Laudier N A,Thornton E B,Macmahan J.Measured and modeled wave overtopping on a natural beach[J].Coastal Engineering,2011,58(9):815-825.
[43] Sarpkaya T,Isaacson M,Wehausen J V.Mechanics of Wave Forces on Offshore Structures[M].New York:Van Nostrand Reinhold Company,1981:231-236.
[44] Nott J.Extremely high-energy wave deposits inside the Great Barrier Reef,Australia:determining the cause—tsunami or tropical cyclone[J].Marine Geology,1997,141(1/4):193-207.
[45] Nott J.Tsunami or storm waves?:Determining the origin of a spectacular field of wave emplaced boulders using numerical storm surge and wave models and hydrodynamic transport equations[J].Journal of Coastal Research,2003,19(2):348-356.
[46] Nott J.Waves,coastal boulder deposits and the importance of the pre-transport setting[J].Earth and Planetary Science Letters,2003,210(1/2):269-276.
[47] Massel S R,Done T J.Effects of cyclone waves on massive coral assemblages on the Great Barrier Reef:meteorology,hydrodynamics and demography[J].Coral Reefs,1993,12(3/4):153-166.
[48] Noormets R,Crook K A W,Felton E A.Sedimentology of rocky shorelines:3.:hydrodynamics of megaclast emplacement and transport on a shore platform,Oahu,Hawaii[J].Sedimentary Geology,2004,172(1/2):41-65.
[49] Nandasena N A K,Paris R,Tanaka N.Reassessment of hydrodynamic equations:Minimum flow velocity to initiate boulder transport by high energy events (storms,tsunamis)[J].Marine Geology,2011,281(1/4):70-84.
[50] Sunamura T,Horikawa K.Two-dimensional beach transformation due to waves[C]//Proceedings of the 14th Conference on Coastal Engineering.New York:American Society of Civil Engineers,1975.
[51] Collins J I.Probabilities of breaking wave characteristics[C]//12th International Conference on Coastal Engineering.Washington D C:American Society of Civil Engineers,1970:399-414.
[52] Lorang M S.Predicting threshold entrainment mass for a boulder beach[J].Journal of Coastal Research,2000,16(2):432-445.
[53] Lorang M S.A wave-competence approach to distinguish between boulder and megaclast deposits due to storm waves versus tsunamis[J].Marine Geology,2011,283(1/4):90-97.
[54] 毛龙江,张永战,许叶华,等.海南岛东部铜鼓岭岸段港湾岸滩沉积特征[J].地理科学,2008,28(5):677-682.Mai Longjiang,Zhang Yongzhan,Xu Yehua,et al.Sedimentatary characteristics of rocky embayment coast in Tongguling in east of Hainan Island[J].Scientia Geographica Sinica,2008,28(5):677-682.
[55] 张仲英,刘瑞华.海南岛沿海的全新世[J].地理科学,1987,7(2):129-138.Zhang Zhongying,Liu Ruihua.The Holocene along the coast of Hainan Island[J].Scientia Geographica Sinica,1987,7(2):129-138.
[56] 尹洪强.基于SWAN模式下南海台风浪的推算[D].大连:大连理工大学,2014.Yin Hongqiang.Typhoon wave forecast in the south sea by SWAN model[D].Dalian:Dalian University of Technology,2014.
[57] 苗庆生.南海台风浪场特征的计算与分析[D].青岛:中国海洋大学,2011.Miao Qingsheng.Calculation and analysis of typhoon wave in South China Sea[D].Qingdao:Ocean University of China,2011.
[58] 赵希涛,沙庆安,冯文科.海南岛全新世海滩岩[J].地质科学,1978,13(2):163-173.Zhao Xitao,Sha Qing’an,Feng Wenke.Holocene beachrocks at Hainan Island[J].Chinese Journal of Geology,1978,13(2):163-173.
[59] 龚昊,陈沈良,钟小菁,等.海南岛东北部海滩侵蚀与恢复对连续台风的复杂响应[J].海洋学报,2017,39(5):68-77.Gong Hao,Chen Shenliang,Zhong Xiaojing,et al.Complicated responses of beach erosion and restoration to consecutive typhoons along northeastern Hainan Island,China[J].Haiyang Xuebao,2017,39(5):68-77.
[60] Noji M,Imamura F,Shuto N.Numerical simulation of movement of large rocks transported by tsunamis[C]//Proceedings of IUGG/IOC International Tsunami Symposium.Wakayama,Japan,1993:189-197.
[61] 王道儒,李元超,兰建新,等.海南岛东海岸长圮海域珊瑚分布与波能的关系[J].热带海洋学报,2011,30(2):18-25.Wang Daoru,Li Yuanchao,Lan Jianxin,et al.Distribution of coral species in Changqi seashore of Hainan Island and its relationship with wave energy[J].Journal of Tropical Oceanography,2011,30(2):18-25.
[62] Egashira K,Fukuda I,Kishira Y,et al.Field measurement of the wave deformation on the reef[J].Proceedings of the Coastal Engineering,1985,32:90-94.
[63] Horikawa K.Coastal Engineering[M].Tokyo:University of Tokyo Press,1991.
[64] Goto K,Okada K,Imamura F.Characteristics and hydrodynamics of boulders transported by storm waves at Kudaka Island,Japan[J].Marine Geology,2009,262(1/4):14-24.
[65] 陈光兴.海南岛的台风与暴潮[J].水文,1992(5):52-55.Chen Guangxing.Typhoon and storm of Hainan Island[J].Hydrology,1992(5):52-55.
[66] 侯京明,于福江,原野,等.影响我国的重大台风风暴潮时空分布[J].海洋通报,2011,30(5):535-539.Hou Jingming,Yu Fujiang,Yuan Ye,et al.Spatial and temporal distribution of red tropical storm surge disasters in China[J].Marine Science Bulletin,2011,30(5):535-539.
[67] 石海莹,李文欢,吕宇波,等.海南省2014年两次特大风暴潮比较分析[J].海洋预报,2015,32(4):75-82.Shi Haiying,Li Wenhuan,Lv Yubo,et al.Comparative analysis of two severe storm surge of Hainan Province in 2014[J].Marine Forecasts,2015,32(4):75-82.
[68] 马经广,杨武志.台风“海鸥”与“威马逊”风暴增水的差异分析[J].广东水利水电,2015(3):20-24.Ma Jingguang,Yang Wuzhi.Difference analysis of storm surge between typhoon Kalmaegi and Rammasum[J].Guangdong Water Resources and Hydropower,2015(3):20-24.
[69] Lau A Y A,Switzer A D,Dominey-Howes D,et al.Written records of historical tsunamis in the northeastern South China Sea-challenges associated with developing a new integrated database[J].Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences,2010,10(9):1793-1806.
[70] Mak S,Chan L S.Historical tsunamis in South China[J].Natural Hazards,2007,43(1):147-164.
[71] Ferrari R,Figueira W F,Pratchett M S,et al.3D photogrammetry quantifies growth and external erosion of individual coral colonies and skeletons[J].Scientific Reports,2017,7(1):16737.
[2] Emanuel K.Increasing destructiveness of tropical cyclones over the past 30 years[J].Nature,2005,436(7051):686-688.
[3] Landsea C W.Meteorology:hurricanes and global warming[J].Nature,2005,438(7071):E11-E12.
[4] Donnelly J P,Woodruff J D.Intense hurricane activity over the past 5,000 years controlled by El Niňo and the West African monsoon[J].Nature,2007,447(7143):465-468.
[5] Vecchi G A,Villarini G.Next season’s hurricanes[J].Science,2014,343(6171):618-619.
[6] Stocker T,Qin D,Plattner G K,et al.Technical summary[M]//Stocker T,Qin D,Plattner G K,et al.Climate Change 2013:The Physical Science Basis.Contribution of Working Group I to the Fifth Assessment Report of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change.Cambridge,United Kingdom and New York,NY,USA:Cambridge University Press,2013:159-254.
[7] Huigen M G A,Jens I C.Socio-economic impact of super typhoon harurot in San Mariano,Isabela,the Philippines[J].World Development,2006,34(12):2116-2136.
[8] Mori N,Kato M,Kim S,et al.Local amplification of storm surge by super typhoon Haiyan in Leyte Gulf[J].Geophysical Research Letters,2014,41(14):5106-5113.
[9] 廖淦标,范代读.全球变暖是否导致台风增强:古风暴学研究进展与启示[J].科学通报,2008,53(13):1489-1502.Liu K,Fan Daidu.Perspectives on the linkage between typhoon activity and global warming from recent research advances in paleotempestology[J].Chinese Science Bulletin,2008,53(19):2907-2922.
[10] Zhou Liang,Gao Shu,Yang Yang,et al.Typhoon events recorded in coastal lagoon deposits,southeastern Hainan Island[J].Acta Oceanologica Sinica,2017,36(4):37-45.
[11] 周亮,高抒,杨阳,等.海南岛东南部海湾350年古风暴事件沉积与历史文献记录对比[J].海洋学报,2015,37(9):84-94.Zhou Liang,Gao Shu,Yang Yang,et al.Comparison of paleostorm events between sedimentary and historical archives:A 350 year record from southeastern Hainan Island coastal embayments[J].Haiyang Xuebao,2015,37(9):84-94.
[12] Donnelly J P,Roll S,Wengren M,et al.Sedimentary evidence of intense hurricane strikes from New Jersey[J].Geology,2001,29(7):615-618.
[13] Liu K,Fearn M L.Lake-sediment record of late Holocene hurricane activities from coastal Alabama[J].Geology,1993,21(9):793-796.
[14] Liu K,Fearn M L.Reconstruction of prehistoric landfall frequencies of catastrophic hurricanes in northwestern Florida from lake sediment records[J].Quaternary Research,2000,54(2):238-245.
[15] Hayne M O,Chappell J.Cyclone frequency during the last 5000 years at Curacoa Island,north Queensland,Australia[J].Palaeogeography,Palaeoclimatology,Palaeoecology,2001,168(3/4):207-219.
[16] Nott J,Hayne M.High frequency of ‘super-cyclones’ along the Great Barrier Reef over the past 5,000 years[J].Nature,2001,413(6855):508-512.
[17] Yu Kefu,Zhao Jianxin,Collerson K D,et al.Storm cycles in the last millennium recorded in Yongshu Reef,southern South China Sea[J].Palaeogeography,Palaeoclimatology,Palaeoecology,2004,210(1):89-100.
[18] Bourrouilh-Le Jan F G,Talandier J.Major high-energy events in a reef environment:tsunamis,hurricanes and tropical cyclones and their effects on the sedimentology and geomorphology of an atoll:Rangiroa,Tuamotu (SE Pacific)[J].Marine Geology,1985,37(3/4):263-272.
[19] Young R W,Bryant E A.Catastrophic wave erosion on the southeastern coast of Australia:Impact of the Lanai tsunamis ca.105 ka?[J].Geology,1992,20(3):199-202.
[20] Spiske M,B?r?cz Z,Bahlburg H.The role of porosity in discriminating between tsunami and hurricane emplacement of boulders—a case study from the Lesser Antilles,southern Caribbean[J].Earth and Planetary Science Letters,2008,268(3/4):384-396.
[21] Yu Kefu,Zhao Jianxin,Shi Qi,et al.Reconstruction of storm/tsunami records over the last 4000 years using transported coral blocks and lagoon sediments in the southern South China Sea[J].Quaternary International,2009,195(1/2):128-137.
[22] Ferrario F,Beck M W,Storlazzi C D,et al.The effectiveness of coral reefs for coastal hazard risk reduction and adaptation[J].Nature Communications,2014,5(5):3794.
[23] 邵超.海滩—珊瑚礁海岸侵蚀及适应性管理研究[D].厦门:国家海洋局第三海洋研究所,2016.Shao Chao.Study on coastal erosion of beach-coral system and its adaptive management[D].Xiamen:Third Institute of Oceanography,State Oceanic Administration,2016.
[24] 朱锁风.海南台风[M].北京:气象出版社,1994.Zhu Suofeng.Hainan Typhoon[M].Beijing:China Meteorological Press,1994.
[25] 郑艳,蔡亲波,程守长,等.超强台风“威马逊”(1409)强度和降水特征及其近海急剧加强原因[J].暴雨灾害,2014,33(4):333-341.Zheng Yan,Cai Qinbo,Cheng Shouchang,et al.Characteristics on intensity and precipitation of super typhoon Rammasun (1409) and reason why it rapidly intensified offshore[J].Torrential Rain and Disasters,2014,33(4):333-341.
[26] 刘蕾,陈茂钦,李煜,等.超强台风“威马逊”近海急剧加强特征及诊断分析[J].气象科技,2015,43(6):1149-1156.Liu Lei,Chen Maoqin,Li Yu,et al.Features and diagnostic analysis of rapid intensity change of super typhoon Rammasun over China offshore waters[J].Meteorological Science and Technology,2015,43(6):1149-1156.
[27] 陈寒松.海南省千年自然灾害史料集[M].海口:海南出版社,1995.Chen Hansong.Natural Disasters Historical Dataset of Hainan[M].Haikou:Hainan Publishing House,1995.
[28] 王颖.海南潮汐汊道港湾海岸[M].北京:中国环境科学出版社,1998.Wang Ying.Hainan Tidal Inlet Harbor Coast[M].Beijing:China Environmental Science Press,1998.
[29] 张明书,刘键,李浩,等.海南岛周缘珊瑚礁的基本特征和成礁时代[J].海洋地质与第四纪地质,1990,10(2):25-43.Zhang Mingshu,Liu Jian,Li Hao,et al.Basic characteristics and formation time of peripheral coral reefs in Hainan Island[J].Marine Geology & Quaternary Geology,1990,10(2):25-43.
[30] 吴正,吴克刚.海南岛东北部海岸沙丘的沉积构造特征及其发育模式[J].地理学报,1987,54(2):129-141.Wu Zheng,Wu Kegang.Sedimentary structure and developing model of coastal dunes along the northeastern coast of Hainan Island,China[J].Acta Geographica Sinica,1987,54(2):129-141.
[31] 屠佳雨,高抒,周亮,等.海南岛东部台风重现期及其时空分布特征[J].第四纪研究,2016,36(1):184-195.Tu Jiayu,Gao Shu,Zhou Liang,et al.Return periods and special-temporal distribution patterns of typhoons affecting in eastern Hainan Island[J].Quaternary Sciences,2016,36(1):184-195.
[32] 中华人民共和国国家统计局,中华人民共和国民政部.中国灾情报告[M].北京:中国统计出版社,1949-1995.National Statistics Bureau of the People's Republic of China,Ministry of Civil Affairs of the People's Republic of China.Report of the Damage Caused by Disaster in China[M].Beijing:China Statistics Press,1949-1995.
[33] 殷勇,朱大奎,Martini I P.探地雷达(GPR)在海南岛东北部海岸带调查中的应用[J].第四纪研究,2006,26(3):462-469.Yin Yong,Zhu Dakui,Martini I P.Application of ground-penetrating radar in coastal survey of northeastern Hainan Island[J].Quaternary Sciences,2006,26(3):462-469.
[34] 佚名.文昌市翁田镇:加强农村基础工作提高农民生活水平[J].今日海南,2010(10):52.Anonymous.Wengtian Town,Wenchang City:Strengthening basic work in rural areas,improving the living standards of farmers[J].Hainan Today Magazine,2010(10):52.
[35] 吴钟解,吴瑞,王道儒,等.海南岛东、南部珊瑚礁生态健康状况初步分析[J].热带作物学报,2011,32(1):122-130.Wu Zhongjie,Wu Rui,Wang Daoru,et al.A preminary study on the status of coral reef health in the southeast coastal regions of Hainan Island[J].Chinese Journal of Tropical Crops,2011,32(1):122-130.
[36] 吴钟解,陈石泉,陈敏,等.海南岛造礁石珊瑚资源初步调查与分析[J].海洋湖沼通报,2013(2):44-50.Wu Zhongjie,Chen Shiquan,Chen Min,et al.Preliminary survey and analysis of the resources of hermatypic corals in Hainan Island[J].Transactions of Oceanology and Limnology,2013(2):44-50.
[37] 蔡泽富,陈石泉,吴钟解,等.海南岛东北部沿岸造礁石珊瑚时空分布特征[J].海洋湖沼通报,2015(3):78-86.Cai Zefu,Chen Shiquan,Wu Zhongjie,et al.The spatial and temporal distribution characteristics of hermatypic corals in the coastal waters of northeastern Hainan Island[J].Transactions of Oceanology and Limnology,2015(3):78-86.
[38] Folk R L,Ward W C.Brazos River bar:a study in the significance of grain size parameters[J].Journal of Sedimentary Research,1957,27(1):3-26.
[39] Stuiver M K,Reimer P J,Braziunas T F.High precision radiocarbon age calibration for terrestrial and marine samples[J].Radiocarbon,1998,40(3):580-589.
[40] Mase H.Random wave runup height on gentle slope[J].Journal of Waterway,Port,Coastal,and Ocean Engineering,1989,115(5):649-661.
[41] Stockdon H F,Holman R A,Howd P A,et al.Empirical parameterization of setup,swash,and runup[J].Coastal Engineering,2006,53(7):573-588.
[42] Laudier N A,Thornton E B,Macmahan J.Measured and modeled wave overtopping on a natural beach[J].Coastal Engineering,2011,58(9):815-825.
[43] Sarpkaya T,Isaacson M,Wehausen J V.Mechanics of Wave Forces on Offshore Structures[M].New York:Van Nostrand Reinhold Company,1981:231-236.
[44] Nott J.Extremely high-energy wave deposits inside the Great Barrier Reef,Australia:determining the cause—tsunami or tropical cyclone[J].Marine Geology,1997,141(1/4):193-207.
[45] Nott J.Tsunami or storm waves?:Determining the origin of a spectacular field of wave emplaced boulders using numerical storm surge and wave models and hydrodynamic transport equations[J].Journal of Coastal Research,2003,19(2):348-356.
[46] Nott J.Waves,coastal boulder deposits and the importance of the pre-transport setting[J].Earth and Planetary Science Letters,2003,210(1/2):269-276.
[47] Massel S R,Done T J.Effects of cyclone waves on massive coral assemblages on the Great Barrier Reef:meteorology,hydrodynamics and demography[J].Coral Reefs,1993,12(3/4):153-166.
[48] Noormets R,Crook K A W,Felton E A.Sedimentology of rocky shorelines:3.:hydrodynamics of megaclast emplacement and transport on a shore platform,Oahu,Hawaii[J].Sedimentary Geology,2004,172(1/2):41-65.
[49] Nandasena N A K,Paris R,Tanaka N.Reassessment of hydrodynamic equations:Minimum flow velocity to initiate boulder transport by high energy events (storms,tsunamis)[J].Marine Geology,2011,281(1/4):70-84.
[50] Sunamura T,Horikawa K.Two-dimensional beach transformation due to waves[C]//Proceedings of the 14th Conference on Coastal Engineering.New York:American Society of Civil Engineers,1975.
[51] Collins J I.Probabilities of breaking wave characteristics[C]//12th International Conference on Coastal Engineering.Washington D C:American Society of Civil Engineers,1970:399-414.
[52] Lorang M S.Predicting threshold entrainment mass for a boulder beach[J].Journal of Coastal Research,2000,16(2):432-445.
[53] Lorang M S.A wave-competence approach to distinguish between boulder and megaclast deposits due to storm waves versus tsunamis[J].Marine Geology,2011,283(1/4):90-97.
[54] 毛龙江,张永战,许叶华,等.海南岛东部铜鼓岭岸段港湾岸滩沉积特征[J].地理科学,2008,28(5):677-682.Mai Longjiang,Zhang Yongzhan,Xu Yehua,et al.Sedimentatary characteristics of rocky embayment coast in Tongguling in east of Hainan Island[J].Scientia Geographica Sinica,2008,28(5):677-682.
[55] 张仲英,刘瑞华.海南岛沿海的全新世[J].地理科学,1987,7(2):129-138.Zhang Zhongying,Liu Ruihua.The Holocene along the coast of Hainan Island[J].Scientia Geographica Sinica,1987,7(2):129-138.
[56] 尹洪强.基于SWAN模式下南海台风浪的推算[D].大连:大连理工大学,2014.Yin Hongqiang.Typhoon wave forecast in the south sea by SWAN model[D].Dalian:Dalian University of Technology,2014.
[57] 苗庆生.南海台风浪场特征的计算与分析[D].青岛:中国海洋大学,2011.Miao Qingsheng.Calculation and analysis of typhoon wave in South China Sea[D].Qingdao:Ocean University of China,2011.
[58] 赵希涛,沙庆安,冯文科.海南岛全新世海滩岩[J].地质科学,1978,13(2):163-173.Zhao Xitao,Sha Qing’an,Feng Wenke.Holocene beachrocks at Hainan Island[J].Chinese Journal of Geology,1978,13(2):163-173.
[59] 龚昊,陈沈良,钟小菁,等.海南岛东北部海滩侵蚀与恢复对连续台风的复杂响应[J].海洋学报,2017,39(5):68-77.Gong Hao,Chen Shenliang,Zhong Xiaojing,et al.Complicated responses of beach erosion and restoration to consecutive typhoons along northeastern Hainan Island,China[J].Haiyang Xuebao,2017,39(5):68-77.
[60] Noji M,Imamura F,Shuto N.Numerical simulation of movement of large rocks transported by tsunamis[C]//Proceedings of IUGG/IOC International Tsunami Symposium.Wakayama,Japan,1993:189-197.
[61] 王道儒,李元超,兰建新,等.海南岛东海岸长圮海域珊瑚分布与波能的关系[J].热带海洋学报,2011,30(2):18-25.Wang Daoru,Li Yuanchao,Lan Jianxin,et al.Distribution of coral species in Changqi seashore of Hainan Island and its relationship with wave energy[J].Journal of Tropical Oceanography,2011,30(2):18-25.
[62] Egashira K,Fukuda I,Kishira Y,et al.Field measurement of the wave deformation on the reef[J].Proceedings of the Coastal Engineering,1985,32:90-94.
[63] Horikawa K.Coastal Engineering[M].Tokyo:University of Tokyo Press,1991.
[64] Goto K,Okada K,Imamura F.Characteristics and hydrodynamics of boulders transported by storm waves at Kudaka Island,Japan[J].Marine Geology,2009,262(1/4):14-24.
[65] 陈光兴.海南岛的台风与暴潮[J].水文,1992(5):52-55.Chen Guangxing.Typhoon and storm of Hainan Island[J].Hydrology,1992(5):52-55.
[66] 侯京明,于福江,原野,等.影响我国的重大台风风暴潮时空分布[J].海洋通报,2011,30(5):535-539.Hou Jingming,Yu Fujiang,Yuan Ye,et al.Spatial and temporal distribution of red tropical storm surge disasters in China[J].Marine Science Bulletin,2011,30(5):535-539.
[67] 石海莹,李文欢,吕宇波,等.海南省2014年两次特大风暴潮比较分析[J].海洋预报,2015,32(4):75-82.Shi Haiying,Li Wenhuan,Lv Yubo,et al.Comparative analysis of two severe storm surge of Hainan Province in 2014[J].Marine Forecasts,2015,32(4):75-82.
[68] 马经广,杨武志.台风“海鸥”与“威马逊”风暴增水的差异分析[J].广东水利水电,2015(3):20-24.Ma Jingguang,Yang Wuzhi.Difference analysis of storm surge between typhoon Kalmaegi and Rammasum[J].Guangdong Water Resources and Hydropower,2015(3):20-24.
[69] Lau A Y A,Switzer A D,Dominey-Howes D,et al.Written records of historical tsunamis in the northeastern South China Sea-challenges associated with developing a new integrated database[J].Natural Hazards and Earth System Sciences,2010,10(9):1793-1806.
[70] Mak S,Chan L S.Historical tsunamis in South China[J].Natural Hazards,2007,43(1):147-164.
[71] Ferrari R,Figueira W F,Pratchett M S,et al.3D photogrammetry quantifies growth and external erosion of individual coral colonies and skeletons[J].Scientific Reports,2017,7(1):16737.