大洋中涌浪对风浪能量的影响
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摘要
由于涌浪与风浪在特征物理参量及成长、衰亡上的显著不同,区分风涌浪以及研究涌浪对风浪的影响尤为重要。本文使用2013年及2015年大洋中的WaMoSⅡ测波雷达观测数据,研究了涌浪对风浪能量的影响。由于测波雷达仅使用了9s的有效周期作为谱分离判据,其所得风浪有效波高显著高于PM谱充分成长关系给出的波高。因此本文结合2D法与1D法,加入风速、风浪夹角、波龄等要素给出新的判据,重新对风、涌浪进行了分离。通过对比不同的波龄判据,发现当波龄取1.5时,所得结果与PM谱吻合良好。以Toba-3/2定律为基础,研究了不同类型涌浪对风浪能量的影响。发现三种类型涌浪存在时,风浪能量及有效波高整体上都有所增加,其中尤其以反向涌浪存在时增加最多。
There are significant differences in characteristic physical parameters,growth and decline between swell and wind waves.It is particularly important to identify wind-wave from swell and study the influence of swell on wind waves.This paper uses the WaMoSII wave radar data in the ocean of 2013 and 2015 to study the impact of swell on wind waves.The significant wave height of radar is markedly higher than the wave height given by the fully developed relationship of the PM spectrum due to using the single parameter of significant period of 9 sas spectrum partitioning criteria.Therefore,the criteria combining 2 Dwave spectrum partitioning technique with 1 D partitioning technique,adding new parameters such as wind speed,wind wave angle,wave age was used to separate wind-wavefrom swell.By comparing different wave age criteria,it was found that when the wave age is 1.5,the result agrees well with the PM spectrum.According to the Sugihara et al.(2007)classification method,the influence of swell on wind wave energy was studied based on Toba-3/2 law.The wave energy and significant wave height increased as a whole in three types of swell,with the most significant increase in the presence of countering swell.
There are significant differences in characteristic physical parameters,growth and decline between swell and wind waves.It is particularly important to identify wind-wave from swell and study the influence of swell on wind waves.This paper uses the WaMoSII wave radar data in the ocean of 2013 and 2015 to study the impact of swell on wind waves.The significant wave height of radar is markedly higher than the wave height given by the fully developed relationship of the PM spectrum due to using the single parameter of significant period of 9 sas spectrum partitioning criteria.Therefore,the criteria combining 2 Dwave spectrum partitioning technique with 1 D partitioning technique,adding new parameters such as wind speed,wind wave angle,wave age was used to separate wind-wavefrom swell.By comparing different wave age criteria,it was found that when the wave age is 1.5,the result agrees well with the PM spectrum.According to the Sugihara et al.(2007)classification method,the influence of swell on wind wave energy was studied based on Toba-3/2 law.The wave energy and significant wave height increased as a whole in three types of swell,with the most significant increase in the presence of countering swell.
引文
[1]Kahma K K,Donelan M A,Drennan W M,et al.Evidence of energy and momentum flux from swell to wind[J].J Phys Oceanogr,2016,46(7):2143-2156.
[2]王涛.涌浪成长与消衰过程的初步探讨[J].海洋与湖沼,1964,6(4):331-348.Wang T A.Preliminary study of the process of grawth and decay of swells[J].Oceanologia Et Limnologia Sinica,1964,6(4):331-348.
[3]Longuet-Higgins M S,Steward R W.Changes in the form of shortgravity waves on long waves and tidal currents[J].J Fluid Mech,1960,8:565-583.
[4]Phillips O M,Banner M L.Wave breaking in the presence of winddrift and swell[J].J Fluid Mech,1974,66:625-640.
[5]Hatori M,Tokuda M and TobaY.Experimental study onstrong interactions between regular waves and wind waves[J].J Oceanogr Soc Japan,1981,37:111-119.
[6]Dobson F,Perrie W,and Toulany B.On the deep-water fetchlaws for wind-generated surface gravity waves[J].Atmos-Ocean,1988,27(1):210-236.
[7]Mitsuyasu H.Wave Breaking in the Presence of Wind Drift and Opposed Swell[M].[s.1.]:Springer-Verlag,1992:147-153.
[8]Chu J S,Long S R and Phillips O M.Measurements of the interaction of wave groups with shorter wind-generatedwaves[J].J Fluid Mech,1992,245:191-210.
[9]Chen G and Belcher S E.Effects of long waves on wind-generated waves[J].J Phys Oceanogr,2000,30:2246-2256.
[10]Yue X Y,Zou X C,Liu S H,et al.Low frequency shift of wind waves induced by long waves based on experimental observation data[J].Marine Science Bulletin,2014,2(16):28-36.
[11]Hwang P A.Observations of swell influence on ocean surface roughness[J].Journal of Geophysical Research Oceans,2008,113:C12024.
[12]Garcia-Nava H,Ocampo-Torres F J,Hwang P A,et al.Reduction of wind stress due to swell at high wind conditions[J].J Geophys Res,2012,117,C00J11.
[13]Pierson W J and Moskowitz L.A Proposed Spectral Form of Fully Developed Wind seas Forecasting Ocean Waves by Means of Wave Spectra and Statistics[C].[s.1.]:U S Navy Hydr Office Pub,1964,603:284.
[14]汪炳祥,常瑞芳,王一飞.风浪与涌浪的划分判据[J].黄渤海海洋,1990,8(1):16-24.Wang B X,Chang R F,Wang Y F.Crieria of differentiating swell from wind waves[J].Journal of Oceanography of Huanghai and Bohai Seas.1990,8(1):16-24.
[15]郭佩芳,施平,王华.划分风浪与涌浪的一个新判据---海浪成份及其在南海的应用[J].青岛海洋大学学报(自然科学版),1997,27(2):131-137.Guo P F,Shi P,Wang H,A new criterion between wind wave and swell wave by mixed wave composition factors and its application to the South China Sea[J].Periodical of Ocean University of Qingdao,1997,27(2):131-137.
[16]Li S Q,ZHAO D L.Comparisons on partitioning techniques to identify wind-wave and swell[J].Acta Oceanologic Sinica,2012,34(2):23-29.
[17]Hanson J L,Phillips O M.Automated analysis of ocean surface directional wave spectra[J].Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology,2001,18(2):277-293.
[18]Toba Y.Local balance in the air-sea boundary processes.I.on the growth process of wind waves[J].J Oceanogr Soc Japan,1972,28:109-120.
[19]赵栋梁,自然海况下波浪特性的初步研究[J].青岛海洋大学学报(自然科学版),2002,32(6):853-858.Zhao D L,A preliminary study on the characteristics of ocean waves in natural conditions[J].Periodical of Ocean University of Qingdao,2002,32(6):853-858.
[20]Yelland M,Taylor P K.Wind stress measurements from the open ocean[J].Journal of Physical Oceanography,1996,26(4):541-558.
[21]Toffoli A,Loffredo L,Roy P L,et al.On the variability of sea drag in finite water depth[J].J Geophys Res:Oceans,2012,117(C11),DOI:10.1029/2011JC007857.
[22]Wu J.Wind-stress coefficients over sea surface near neutral conditions-A revisit[J].J Phys Oceanogr,1980,10(10):727-740.
[23]Sugihara Y,Tsumori H,Ohga T,et al.Variation of whitecap coverage with wave-field conditions[J].Journal of Marine Systems,2007,66:47-60.
[2]王涛.涌浪成长与消衰过程的初步探讨[J].海洋与湖沼,1964,6(4):331-348.Wang T A.Preliminary study of the process of grawth and decay of swells[J].Oceanologia Et Limnologia Sinica,1964,6(4):331-348.
[3]Longuet-Higgins M S,Steward R W.Changes in the form of shortgravity waves on long waves and tidal currents[J].J Fluid Mech,1960,8:565-583.
[4]Phillips O M,Banner M L.Wave breaking in the presence of winddrift and swell[J].J Fluid Mech,1974,66:625-640.
[5]Hatori M,Tokuda M and TobaY.Experimental study onstrong interactions between regular waves and wind waves[J].J Oceanogr Soc Japan,1981,37:111-119.
[6]Dobson F,Perrie W,and Toulany B.On the deep-water fetchlaws for wind-generated surface gravity waves[J].Atmos-Ocean,1988,27(1):210-236.
[7]Mitsuyasu H.Wave Breaking in the Presence of Wind Drift and Opposed Swell[M].[s.1.]:Springer-Verlag,1992:147-153.
[8]Chu J S,Long S R and Phillips O M.Measurements of the interaction of wave groups with shorter wind-generatedwaves[J].J Fluid Mech,1992,245:191-210.
[9]Chen G and Belcher S E.Effects of long waves on wind-generated waves[J].J Phys Oceanogr,2000,30:2246-2256.
[10]Yue X Y,Zou X C,Liu S H,et al.Low frequency shift of wind waves induced by long waves based on experimental observation data[J].Marine Science Bulletin,2014,2(16):28-36.
[11]Hwang P A.Observations of swell influence on ocean surface roughness[J].Journal of Geophysical Research Oceans,2008,113:C12024.
[12]Garcia-Nava H,Ocampo-Torres F J,Hwang P A,et al.Reduction of wind stress due to swell at high wind conditions[J].J Geophys Res,2012,117,C00J11.
[13]Pierson W J and Moskowitz L.A Proposed Spectral Form of Fully Developed Wind seas Forecasting Ocean Waves by Means of Wave Spectra and Statistics[C].[s.1.]:U S Navy Hydr Office Pub,1964,603:284.
[14]汪炳祥,常瑞芳,王一飞.风浪与涌浪的划分判据[J].黄渤海海洋,1990,8(1):16-24.Wang B X,Chang R F,Wang Y F.Crieria of differentiating swell from wind waves[J].Journal of Oceanography of Huanghai and Bohai Seas.1990,8(1):16-24.
[15]郭佩芳,施平,王华.划分风浪与涌浪的一个新判据---海浪成份及其在南海的应用[J].青岛海洋大学学报(自然科学版),1997,27(2):131-137.Guo P F,Shi P,Wang H,A new criterion between wind wave and swell wave by mixed wave composition factors and its application to the South China Sea[J].Periodical of Ocean University of Qingdao,1997,27(2):131-137.
[16]Li S Q,ZHAO D L.Comparisons on partitioning techniques to identify wind-wave and swell[J].Acta Oceanologic Sinica,2012,34(2):23-29.
[17]Hanson J L,Phillips O M.Automated analysis of ocean surface directional wave spectra[J].Journal of Atmospheric and Oceanic Technology,2001,18(2):277-293.
[18]Toba Y.Local balance in the air-sea boundary processes.I.on the growth process of wind waves[J].J Oceanogr Soc Japan,1972,28:109-120.
[19]赵栋梁,自然海况下波浪特性的初步研究[J].青岛海洋大学学报(自然科学版),2002,32(6):853-858.Zhao D L,A preliminary study on the characteristics of ocean waves in natural conditions[J].Periodical of Ocean University of Qingdao,2002,32(6):853-858.
[20]Yelland M,Taylor P K.Wind stress measurements from the open ocean[J].Journal of Physical Oceanography,1996,26(4):541-558.
[21]Toffoli A,Loffredo L,Roy P L,et al.On the variability of sea drag in finite water depth[J].J Geophys Res:Oceans,2012,117(C11),DOI:10.1029/2011JC007857.
[22]Wu J.Wind-stress coefficients over sea surface near neutral conditions-A revisit[J].J Phys Oceanogr,1980,10(10):727-740.
[23]Sugihara Y,Tsumori H,Ohga T,et al.Variation of whitecap coverage with wave-field conditions[J].Journal of Marine Systems,2007,66:47-60.