论梭织面料性能与服装造型的关系

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英文题名：The Relation of Performance Woven Fabric and the Shape of Garment 作者：蒋孝锋 论文级别：硕士 学科专业名称：艺术设计学 中文关键词：梭织面料 ; 性能 ; 服装造型 英文关键词：woven fabric ; performance ; garment shape 学位年度：2003 导师：史林 学科代码：050404 学位授予单位：苏州大学 论文提交日期：2003-04-01

摘要

服装造型美和外观质量的优劣，很大程度上取决于对面料的选择和性能的认识。本文围绕梭织面料的性能与服装造型的关系这一主题进行了论述。
     论文首先分析了梭织面料的构成要素及其性能对服装造型效果的影响，在此基础上，对不同性能的面料及用这些面料制成同一结构的A字裙进行试验，然后采用主观评价方法对这些A字裙的造型效果作出了评判，通过数据分析，揭示出两者之间的关系，从实验上论证了理论的正确性。并提出服装的使用环境对其外观造型主观评价上的影响这一观点。论文最后还对几种典型的服装造型的梭织面料选择，以及不同质地面料适合的服装造型进行了描述。为服装造型设计的面料选择提供了思路。
The aesthetic shape and appearance of garment depend somewhat on the selection of fabrics and recognition of performance. In this paper, the relation of performance and the shape of garment was discussed.
    First, it was analyzed that how construction elements and performance of the woven fabrics influenced the shape of garment. Then, the experiments, in which various fabric and A-skirt made of them were used, were done. And the shape of these skirts were appraised by subjective evaluation. By analyzing data, the relation of them were discovered and the theory was proved. The view that the used environment of garment affected the subjective evaluation on appearance shape was given. At last, selecting woven fabric for some typical garments and selecting garment style for various fabrics were described, and some methods for selection of fabric during designing garment were given.

引文

1、吴卫刚，《服装裁剪与选料》，中国纺织出版社，2000
    2、吴世椿等，《服装艺术造型设计》，上海科学技术出版社，1991
    3、思励，《服装设计学》，中国纺织出版社，2000
    4、周丽娅等，《服装构成基础》，中国纺织出版社，2000
    5、潘建华，《服装人体工效学与服装设计》，中国轻工业出版社，2000
    6、濮微，《服装面料与辅料》，中国纺织出版社，1998
    7、刘静伟，《服装材料的认识选择与应用》，中国纺织出版社，1998
    8、周璐英，《现代服装材料学》，中国纺织出版社，2000
    9、丁杏子，《服装设计》，中国纺织出版社，2001
    10、王鸣，《服装款式设计大系》，辽宁科技出版社，2002