天然彩色棉产品抗紫外线处理的研究
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摘要
天然彩色棉是一种无需染色的纯天然纺织品原料，在自然生长中天然带有颜色，因此在纺织品生产加工中不残留任何有害化学物质，保持绿色产品的特性。天然彩色棉产品质地柔软，并有良好的吸湿透气性，色泽自然柔和，是理想的夏季服用面料，也适合于制作贴身内衣，儿童、妇女和老年人服装。天然彩色棉是近十几年兴起的新型纺织纤维，被广大纺织行业所看好，具有强大的市场竞争力和广阔的市场前景。因而天然彩色棉的性能研究和功能面料的开发具有重要的现实意义和社会使用价值。
本课题旨在研究天然彩色棉在特殊功能性面料上的开发和应用。因为天然彩色棉的各项特点使得它成为夏季服装的理想面料，而考虑到夏季强烈的日照和紫外线辐射对人体造成的伤害，因此有必要对天然彩色棉进行抗紫外线的处理，使彩色棉织物具有抗紫外线功能，减少对人体皮肤造成的各种危害。同时，根据各种纤维对紫外线的不同吸收率，可以发现彩色棉自身的抗紫外能力很低，处于众多纤维之下，因而就更加需要对彩色棉进行抗紫外线的处理。
为了对天然彩色棉进行抗紫外线处理，首先分析了彩色棉自身的一些特点，包括它的物理性能和化学性能。同时，也了解到目前抗紫外线处理的基本情况，以及所使用的抗紫外线材料和处理的方式；并且结合大量实验，分析影响天然彩色棉抗紫外线能力的各种因素，最后确定三个最主要的影响因素。根据这三个因素的相应实验，找到相对有利于提高彩色棉抗紫外线能力的三个条件和基本的处理工艺。
针对这条初步的工艺设想，为了能够更进一步地提高彩色棉的抗紫外线效果，因而采取正交实验设计和数据分析来求得一条最优工艺条件，并且进行再验证工作，从而说明了正交实验的准确性。最后，对正交处理的试样分别进行各项物理性能测试，分析它们在处理前后的性能变化，看其是否具有一般针织物的服用性。
在课题的最后重点研究了彩色棉织物抗紫外线指标的测试方法。针对目前常用的几种抗紫外线指标的测试方法，分析了测试原理和它
们之间存在的利弊。考虑到某些方法的测试价格过高，因此在课题中
试图寻找一种相对比较低成本和简易可行的测试方法。
受某些物质的感光性和遇光分解性能启发，找到了一条简易测试
法。并且根据这一原理不断地进行实验，逐步完善整个测试过程，做
到既简单方便又快速准确。最后利用色差的原理对简易测试追加了定
量评价功能，通过回归分析建立起色差值和紫外线透过率两个指标之
间的线性回归方程。同理，对此方程进行实验验证，再次证明了线性
回归方程的正确性。
通过一系列的实验和分析，最后对本课题做了总结性论述，同时
提出了课题中存在的一些不足和需要改进之处，也对课题的更进一步
研究做出了一些个人的展望。
The natural colored cotton is a kind of pure natural fabrics without dyeing, which color is produced naturally in growing. So it won't be received harmful function of chemical reagent while processing, and will keep characteristic of the green products. The natural colored cotton fibers touch softly, and have good function of ventilation and picking up moisture, The natural colored cotton have soft and natural color, being ideal summer wearing fabric, is suited to producing fabrics of underwear next to the skin, and clothing of Children and old people. The natural colored cotton is a new-type fiber rising in near decades, favored by the vast textile industry, and have strong market competitiveness and wide market prospects. Therefore characteristic research and development of special function of the natural colored cotton have important actual meaning and social use value.
The subject of the article aims at studying development and application of natural colored cotton on the special functional fabric. The characteristics of natural colored cotton make it become the ideal fabric in summer. However considering the injury to the human body caused by strong sunshine and ultraviolet radiation in summer, it is necessary to proceed resisting-ultraviolet treatment to the natural colored cotton, thus, make the colored cotton fabric have resisting-ultraviolet functions, reduce various kinds of danger to human skin. Besides, based on ultraviolet absorption rates, the ability of resisting-ultraviolet of colored cotton is very low, under numerous fibers. Therefore it is more important to precede resisting-ultraviolet treatment to the colored cotton further.
In order to precede resisting-ultraviolet treatment, at first analyzing some characteristics of colored cotton, including its physics performance and chemical property. Besides, learning about situations of resisting-ultraviolet ways at present, used material of resisting-ultraviolet and ways of treatment. Combining a large of experiments, many factors influenced of the resisting-ultraviolet ability of natural colored cotton was analyzed, and three main influences were found at last. According to the corresponding experiments of these three factors, three conditions and basic treatment technology were found which would improve the resisting-ultraviolet ability of colored cotton relatively.
Imagine to this preliminary technology, hoping to improve colored cotton to resist ultraviolet further, then adopt handing in experimental design and data analysis to try to achieve a piece of optimum process conditions, and go on verification experiment to prove the accuracy of experiment. At last, every sample treated in handing in experiment was tested every physics performance, and was analyzed the change of their performance around dealing with. On the base of wearable request of
knitting fabric, evaluating every physics performance..
In end of the article, the method of testing of the resisting-ultraviolet index of colored cotton was researched emphatically. Several kinds of daily methods of testing resisting-ultraviolet index at present were analyzed, including testing principle and their pros and cons. Consider that the price of test of some methods is too high, and then attempt to look for a kind of relatively cheap and feasible method of testing in the subject.
Inspired by the photo nasty and meeting of some materials, A simple and easy method was found. According to this principle, carry on experiment again and again, and perfect the course of test entirely, in order to make the method more simple, convenient and more accurate. At last another function of quantitative test was added to the simple and easily method according principle of color difference, through analyzing of return to equation, a linear between value of color difference and the rate of ultraviolet has been set up. Also, make verification experiment to prove exactness of the linear equation again.
Thought a series of experiments and analyses, at last a summing-up expression to this subject wa
本课题旨在研究天然彩色棉在特殊功能性面料上的开发和应用。因为天然彩色棉的各项特点使得它成为夏季服装的理想面料，而考虑到夏季强烈的日照和紫外线辐射对人体造成的伤害，因此有必要对天然彩色棉进行抗紫外线的处理，使彩色棉织物具有抗紫外线功能，减少对人体皮肤造成的各种危害。同时，根据各种纤维对紫外线的不同吸收率，可以发现彩色棉自身的抗紫外能力很低，处于众多纤维之下，因而就更加需要对彩色棉进行抗紫外线的处理。
为了对天然彩色棉进行抗紫外线处理，首先分析了彩色棉自身的一些特点，包括它的物理性能和化学性能。同时，也了解到目前抗紫外线处理的基本情况，以及所使用的抗紫外线材料和处理的方式；并且结合大量实验，分析影响天然彩色棉抗紫外线能力的各种因素，最后确定三个最主要的影响因素。根据这三个因素的相应实验，找到相对有利于提高彩色棉抗紫外线能力的三个条件和基本的处理工艺。
针对这条初步的工艺设想，为了能够更进一步地提高彩色棉的抗紫外线效果，因而采取正交实验设计和数据分析来求得一条最优工艺条件，并且进行再验证工作，从而说明了正交实验的准确性。最后，对正交处理的试样分别进行各项物理性能测试，分析它们在处理前后的性能变化，看其是否具有一般针织物的服用性。
在课题的最后重点研究了彩色棉织物抗紫外线指标的测试方法。针对目前常用的几种抗紫外线指标的测试方法，分析了测试原理和它
们之间存在的利弊。考虑到某些方法的测试价格过高，因此在课题中
试图寻找一种相对比较低成本和简易可行的测试方法。
受某些物质的感光性和遇光分解性能启发，找到了一条简易测试
法。并且根据这一原理不断地进行实验，逐步完善整个测试过程，做
到既简单方便又快速准确。最后利用色差的原理对简易测试追加了定
量评价功能，通过回归分析建立起色差值和紫外线透过率两个指标之
间的线性回归方程。同理，对此方程进行实验验证，再次证明了线性
回归方程的正确性。
通过一系列的实验和分析，最后对本课题做了总结性论述，同时
提出了课题中存在的一些不足和需要改进之处，也对课题的更进一步
研究做出了一些个人的展望。
The natural colored cotton is a kind of pure natural fabrics without dyeing, which color is produced naturally in growing. So it won't be received harmful function of chemical reagent while processing, and will keep characteristic of the green products. The natural colored cotton fibers touch softly, and have good function of ventilation and picking up moisture, The natural colored cotton have soft and natural color, being ideal summer wearing fabric, is suited to producing fabrics of underwear next to the skin, and clothing of Children and old people. The natural colored cotton is a new-type fiber rising in near decades, favored by the vast textile industry, and have strong market competitiveness and wide market prospects. Therefore characteristic research and development of special function of the natural colored cotton have important actual meaning and social use value.
The subject of the article aims at studying development and application of natural colored cotton on the special functional fabric. The characteristics of natural colored cotton make it become the ideal fabric in summer. However considering the injury to the human body caused by strong sunshine and ultraviolet radiation in summer, it is necessary to proceed resisting-ultraviolet treatment to the natural colored cotton, thus, make the colored cotton fabric have resisting-ultraviolet functions, reduce various kinds of danger to human skin. Besides, based on ultraviolet absorption rates, the ability of resisting-ultraviolet of colored cotton is very low, under numerous fibers. Therefore it is more important to precede resisting-ultraviolet treatment to the colored cotton further.
In order to precede resisting-ultraviolet treatment, at first analyzing some characteristics of colored cotton, including its physics performance and chemical property. Besides, learning about situations of resisting-ultraviolet ways at present, used material of resisting-ultraviolet and ways of treatment. Combining a large of experiments, many factors influenced of the resisting-ultraviolet ability of natural colored cotton was analyzed, and three main influences were found at last. According to the corresponding experiments of these three factors, three conditions and basic treatment technology were found which would improve the resisting-ultraviolet ability of colored cotton relatively.
Imagine to this preliminary technology, hoping to improve colored cotton to resist ultraviolet further, then adopt handing in experimental design and data analysis to try to achieve a piece of optimum process conditions, and go on verification experiment to prove the accuracy of experiment. At last, every sample treated in handing in experiment was tested every physics performance, and was analyzed the change of their performance around dealing with. On the base of wearable request of
knitting fabric, evaluating every physics performance..
In end of the article, the method of testing of the resisting-ultraviolet index of colored cotton was researched emphatically. Several kinds of daily methods of testing resisting-ultraviolet index at present were analyzed, including testing principle and their pros and cons. Consider that the price of test of some methods is too high, and then attempt to look for a kind of relatively cheap and feasible method of testing in the subject.
Inspired by the photo nasty and meeting of some materials, A simple and easy method was found. According to this principle, carry on experiment again and again, and perfect the course of test entirely, in order to make the method more simple, convenient and more accurate. At last another function of quantitative test was added to the simple and easily method according principle of color difference, through analyzing of return to equation, a linear between value of color difference and the rate of ultraviolet has been set up. Also, make verification experiment to prove exactness of the linear equation again.
Thought a series of experiments and analyses, at last a summing-up expression to this subject wa
引文
1．王耀辉 方雪柬．天然彩色棉花浅谈 陕西纺织．2001．4：25～26
1．周文龙．天然彩色棉的开发现状及对策．纺织导报．2001．5：106-1.8
2．胡伯涛．浅译天然彩色棉的色彩及其产品加工中的几个问题．棉纺织技术．2002．30(5)：265～268
3．杜雪亮 郭子阳．天然彩色棉纺纱技术的研究及开发。河南纺织技术．2000．21(1)：6～8
5．李建强 张一鸣．彩色棉结构性能测试分析．棉纺织技术．2002．30．(5)：269～272
6．周绍萁 安红林．一种简捷快速测定防紫外线织物整理效果的方法．印染．1996．22(11)：29～30
7．陈英．影响织物防紫外性能的因素．北京服装学院学报．2001．21．(2)：30～33
8．武秀阁等．防紫外线凉爽纤维的研究．合成纤维工业．1998．21．(4)：22～25
9．周绍萁 安红林．防紫外线织物．印染助剂．1999．16(5)：1～3
10．武绍学 商成杰．织物防紫外线整理的研究．纺织科学研究．2001．3：25～28
11．钟安华 邱佩琼 王东．抗紫外线辐射机理及其产品开发．印染助剂．2002．19(3)：43～45
12．黄联生．防紫外线纺织品．纺织导报．2001．1．146～148
13．瑞士科莱恩(原山德士)公司的功能性整理剂(一)．印染．1995．21．(10)：42～44
14．唐立 王意．国外医学．社会医学分册．1998．04
15．薛少林 阉玉霄．防紫外线纺织品的开发与应用．北京纺织．21．(4)：43～46
16．祖庸等．新型防晒剂——纳米二氧化钛．化工新型材料．1998．6：26～29
17．万震 刘嵩 王靖天．功能性陶瓷整理织物．染整技术．2000．22．(5)：13～15
18．汪苏南 张曙生．可溶性光敏还原染料对抗紫外线整理织物的测定．印染．1995．21．(9)：27～29
19．UV(紫外线)屏蔽整理．印染译丛．1999．6：42～45
20.M. Fossel, U. Gassan等．阳光防护整理剂索拉特(Solartex)的实践．国际纺织导报．1997．3：70～72
21.Leary-RH. Coloured cotton. Textile-Asia. 2000; 31(1): 42-43
22.Chavan-RB. Eco-fibres and Eco-frindly textiles. Colourage-.1999: 46(SUPPLEMENT): 35～40
23.Algaba-I; Riva-A. In vitro measurement of the ultraviolet protection factor of apparel textiles. Coloration-Technology. 2002; 118(2): 52～58
24.Veatch-KD; Gatewood-BW. Influence of light exposure on the UV protection of direct, reactive, acid, and disperse dyes on cotton and nylon fabrics. AATCC-Teview. 2002; 2(2): 47～51
25.Breiner-U; Bever-PM. Lumaxx-A new polyamide with inherent light resistance. Chemical-Fibers-International. 2001; 51 (6): 413～416
26.Sekar-N. Dyestuffs containing built-in UV stabilizer units-An update. Colourage-. 2001; 48(4): 56～58
27.Rupp-J; Bohringer-A; Yonenaga-A; Hilded-J. Textiles for protection against harmful ultraviolet radiation. International-Textile-Bulletin. 2001; 47(6): 8～20
28. Protection from ultraviolet radiation. Advances-in-Textiles-Technology. 2001; -(MAR): 7
29.Haerri-HP; Haenzi-D; Donze-J-J. Application of UV absorbers for sun-protective fabrics. Melliand-International. 2001; 7(1): 59-62
30.Lennox-Kerr-P. Textiles today function differently. ATA-Journal. 2000; 11(5): 26～33
31．杨汉滨 郭圣新．彩色棉针织产品的研究与开发．山东纺织科技．1999．5：4～5
32．潭娴．抗紫外线辐射效果与纺织品特性的关系．纺织科学研究．2002．1：23～26
33．用氧化锌涂层织物得到的抗菌、脱臭和紫外线吸收材料．印染译丛．1995．6：47～53
34．俞行 刘艾平．纺织专用功能纳米材料及其应用．纺织科学研究．2001．3：1～7
35．酒金婷 李春霞等．纳米氧化锌在水中的分散行为及其应用．印染．2002．1：1～3
36．邱方初 黄建春．天然彩色棉针织纱的开发和生产．山东纺织科技．2000．5：16～17
37．张莉．防紫外线纤维的开发及应用．合成纤维．1999．28(5)：53～54
38．张莉．抗紫外线涤纶低弹丝工艺探讨．聚酯工业．2000．13(1)：32～34
39．徐朴 叶栾梁．防紫外辐射机理及产品研究．棉纺织技术．1999．27(7)：389～394
40．陈晋美 刘瑛．纺织品防紫外线性能的评价方式和研究．检验检疫科学．2002．12(1)：22～25
41．抗紫外辐射整理．北京纺织．1998．19(6)：42～43
42．董振礼 郑宝海等 测色及电子计算机配色 36～54
43．徐海松．计算机测色与配色新技术．58～67
1．周文龙．天然彩色棉的开发现状及对策．纺织导报．2001．5：106-1.8
2．胡伯涛．浅译天然彩色棉的色彩及其产品加工中的几个问题．棉纺织技术．2002．30(5)：265～268
3．杜雪亮 郭子阳．天然彩色棉纺纱技术的研究及开发。河南纺织技术．2000．21(1)：6～8
5．李建强 张一鸣．彩色棉结构性能测试分析．棉纺织技术．2002．30．(5)：269～272
6．周绍萁 安红林．一种简捷快速测定防紫外线织物整理效果的方法．印染．1996．22(11)：29～30
7．陈英．影响织物防紫外性能的因素．北京服装学院学报．2001．21．(2)：30～33
8．武秀阁等．防紫外线凉爽纤维的研究．合成纤维工业．1998．21．(4)：22～25
9．周绍萁 安红林．防紫外线织物．印染助剂．1999．16(5)：1～3
10．武绍学 商成杰．织物防紫外线整理的研究．纺织科学研究．2001．3：25～28
11．钟安华 邱佩琼 王东．抗紫外线辐射机理及其产品开发．印染助剂．2002．19(3)：43～45
12．黄联生．防紫外线纺织品．纺织导报．2001．1．146～148
13．瑞士科莱恩(原山德士)公司的功能性整理剂(一)．印染．1995．21．(10)：42～44
14．唐立 王意．国外医学．社会医学分册．1998．04
15．薛少林 阉玉霄．防紫外线纺织品的开发与应用．北京纺织．21．(4)：43～46
16．祖庸等．新型防晒剂——纳米二氧化钛．化工新型材料．1998．6：26～29
17．万震 刘嵩 王靖天．功能性陶瓷整理织物．染整技术．2000．22．(5)：13～15
18．汪苏南 张曙生．可溶性光敏还原染料对抗紫外线整理织物的测定．印染．1995．21．(9)：27～29
19．UV(紫外线)屏蔽整理．印染译丛．1999．6：42～45
20.M. Fossel, U. Gassan等．阳光防护整理剂索拉特(Solartex)的实践．国际纺织导报．1997．3：70～72
21.Leary-RH. Coloured cotton. Textile-Asia. 2000; 31(1): 42-43
22.Chavan-RB. Eco-fibres and Eco-frindly textiles. Colourage-.1999: 46(SUPPLEMENT): 35～40
23.Algaba-I; Riva-A. In vitro measurement of the ultraviolet protection factor of apparel textiles. Coloration-Technology. 2002; 118(2): 52～58
24.Veatch-KD; Gatewood-BW. Influence of light exposure on the UV protection of direct, reactive, acid, and disperse dyes on cotton and nylon fabrics. AATCC-Teview. 2002; 2(2): 47～51
25.Breiner-U; Bever-PM. Lumaxx-A new polyamide with inherent light resistance. Chemical-Fibers-International. 2001; 51 (6): 413～416
26.Sekar-N. Dyestuffs containing built-in UV stabilizer units-An update. Colourage-. 2001; 48(4): 56～58
27.Rupp-J; Bohringer-A; Yonenaga-A; Hilded-J. Textiles for protection against harmful ultraviolet radiation. International-Textile-Bulletin. 2001; 47(6): 8～20
28. Protection from ultraviolet radiation. Advances-in-Textiles-Technology. 2001; -(MAR): 7
29.Haerri-HP; Haenzi-D; Donze-J-J. Application of UV absorbers for sun-protective fabrics. Melliand-International. 2001; 7(1): 59-62
30.Lennox-Kerr-P. Textiles today function differently. ATA-Journal. 2000; 11(5): 26～33
31．杨汉滨 郭圣新．彩色棉针织产品的研究与开发．山东纺织科技．1999．5：4～5
32．潭娴．抗紫外线辐射效果与纺织品特性的关系．纺织科学研究．2002．1：23～26
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