薄丝织物缝纫平整度与织物结构及性能的相关性研究
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摘要
织物缝纫平整度评价及预测是控制服装缝制外观质量的关键,其核心是：建立准确、全面的缝纫平整度客观评价指标体系；建立织物结构及性能与缝纫平整度主客观评价的关系模型体系。本课题选取有典型代表性的薄丝织物为研究对象,以适合实际应用为前提,通过实验测试和统计分析,对缝纫平整度客观评价方法,织物结构参数、物理力学性能及其与缝纫平整度主客观评价指标的相关性展开研究,建立缝纫平整度客观评价指标体系,确定对缎纹、平纹丝织物缝纫外观质量起关键影响的织物结构参数及物理力学性能指标。在本课题研究基础上的“薄型丝织物缝纫外观质量预测及工艺生成系统研究”已获得浙江省服装工程技术研究中心开放基金资助,项目处于研究中。课题主要研究内容及成果如下：
1)构建基于尺寸变化的薄丝织物缝纫平整度客观评价指标体系
分析织物缝纫中产生的缝缩率相同而缩皱程度不同现象产生的原因,针对缝缩形成机理,提出不屈曲收缩率、边缘离面屈曲率及缝迹离面屈曲率等三个用于评价织物缝纫平整度的新客观指标,构建基于尺寸变化的薄丝织物缝纫平整度客观评价指标体系。
2)薄丝织物缝纫平整度的主客观评价与分析
选取30种生产常用、有代表性的薄丝织物,测定织物缝纫平整度主、客观评价值。运用多种统计方法,分析经纬向缝纫平整度指标间的关系和差异,探讨缝纫平整度主、客观评价指标间的相关性。采用广义差分法,消除纬向缝迹离面屈曲率对纬向缝纫平整度主观评级值模型中自相关问题,建立薄丝织物缝纫平整度主、客观评价指标间关系模型。研究发现,同种织物的经、纬向缝纫平整度评价指标间为正线性关系,经向缝纫缩皱程度比纬向严重,且平纹试样的缝纫平整度主客观评价指标的经、纬向差异更明显；缝条边缘离面屈曲率倒数及缝迹离面屈曲率与织物缝纫平整度主观评级值关系密切,其中前者与经向缝纫平整度主观评级值呈显著正相关,后者与经向平纹试样及纬向试样缝纫平整度主观评级值为显著负相关。
3)薄丝织物结构参数和物理力学性能的测试与分析
测试30种试样的结构参数及物理、力学性能,比较相同纱向两类组织织物结构及性能差异,分析经纬纱向织物结构参数及力学性能的关系和差异,探讨织物结构参数、物理、力学性能间的相关性,并建立3类指标间关系图。研究发现,平纹试样的经向延伸率的离散程度明显高于缎纹试样,但面密度、紧、密度均值明显低于缎纹；织物经向密度、紧度显著高于纬向,缎纹经纬向差异更大,且缎纹试样的经向弯曲刚度、成型性均显著高于纬向；织物结构参数、物理、力学性能间存在多重共线性。
4)薄丝织物结构参数及物理力学性能与经向缝纫平整度主客观评价的相关性
通过相关分析、Loess趋势分析、回归分析刷选出对缎纹试样、平纹试样和全体试样经向缝纫平整度主客观评价起关键影响作用的结构、性能指标；分析经向延伸率、经向弯曲刚度与经向缝缩率之间二次函数关系形成机理；通过路径分析,探讨经向延伸率、经向弯曲刚度与经向缝纫平整度主观评级值相关性强、弱差异产生的的原因,建立平纹织物结构和性能对经向缝纫平整度主观评级值影响的路径图；建立织物结构和性能对经向缝纫平整度主客观评价的关系模型和关系图。结果表明：就缎纹试样而言,对经向缝缩率、经向缝迹离面屈曲率有显著影响的织物性能为经向弯曲刚度、剪切刚度,经纬向紧度比值与经向缝条边缘离面屈曲率及缝纫平整度主观评级值为强正线性相关；就平纹试样而言,对经向缝缩率、经向缝迹离面屈曲率有显著影响的织物性能为经向弯曲刚度、延伸率,且经向延伸率通过与经向缝迹离面屈曲率的非线性关系间接作用于缝纫平整度主观评级值,同时对主观评价产生直接正向作用；纬向紧、密度低,经向成型性及延伸率高的织物,经向缝纫时产生的不屈曲收缩率大。
5)薄丝织物物理力学性能与斜向缝纫平整度客观评价的相关性测试织物厚度、面密度及45度斜向力学性能,测定斜向缝纫平整度主客观评价,用相关分析、回归分析进行数据处理,结果表明：薄丝织物45度斜向缝纫平整度主观评级值都为5级,缝条整体伸长,斜向不屈曲收缩率和缝纫收缩率(缝纫伸长率负数)相近；斜向弯曲刚度、成型性、剪切刚度和斜向延伸率组成的第一主成分,以及面密度为主体的第二主成分对斜向缝迹离面屈曲率有显著影响；斜向成型性小于0.25mm左右、弯曲刚度小于1uN.m左右的薄丝织物,随着上述两个性能的增加,斜向缝纫伸长率快速递减；斜向成型性大于0.25mm左右、弯曲刚度大于1uN.m左右的薄丝织物,随着上述两个性能的增加,斜向缝纫伸长率在大约0%～2.5%区域内波动或缓慢降低。
本课题的主要创新点如下：
1)构建基于尺寸变化的薄丝织物缝纫平整度客观评价指标体系,该体系由不屈曲收缩率、边缘离面屈曲率、缝迹离面屈曲率等三个新的客观评价指标及缝缩率组成,具有较好的析因能力,在表征织物缝纫外观平整度上更全面、准确。
2)构建薄丝织物结构、性能与经向缝纫平整度主客观评价关系模型体系,确定对经向缝纫平整度主客观评价起关键影响的织物结构、性能指标。
3)建立平纹薄丝织物结构和性能对经向缝纫平整度主观评价影响的路径图,确定织物结构和性能对缝纫平整度主观评价的直接和间接作用。
课题研究结果可为薄丝织物缝纫外观质量的评价提供新的思路和方法,对于合理选择薄丝绸服装织物,准确制定缝制工艺提供有价值的参考,亦可为薄丝织物缝皱影响机制提供理论依据,填补了按组织结构对织物缝纫平整度进行细分化研究的空白。
Evaluation and prediction of seam smoothness is the key technology to control the quality of garment sewing appearance quality. The core content includes establishing an accurate and comprehensive seam smoothness evaluation system, and building relation model system between fabric structure, performance and seam smoothness evaluation. Thin silk fabrics is selected as the research object, through experimental testing and statistical analysis, research of seam smoothness objective evaluation method, fabric structure, performance, and its correlation with the objective and subjective evaluation of seam smoothness is conducted. The seam smoothness objective evaluation index system is established, the fabric structure, performance which has significant impact on the seam appearance quality of satin, plain silk fabric is discovered, and the relational model is established. Based on the study of this issue, the project named prediction of seam pucker in thin silk fabric and development of sewing parameters design system is being funded by the Opening Foundation of Zhejiang Provincial Research Center of Clothing Engineering Technology and is being study. The main research content and findings are as follows:
1) Establishing seam smoothness objective evaluation system of thin silk fabrics based on the dimensional changes
The reasons for the differences between seam smoothness subjective evaluation and seam shrinkage rate is analyzed. Based on seam shrinkage formation mechanism, three new objective evaluation indexes, including no buckling seam shrinkage rate, seam edge buckling rate, and seam line buckling rate, are proposed. Thus the seam smoothness objective evaluation system of thin silk fabric is established.
2) Objective and subjective evaluation and analysis of seam smoothness of thin silk fabrics
Thirty kinds of garment production representative thin silk fabrics are selected. Subjective and objective evaluation value of seam smoothness is obtained through sewing experiment. Using a variety of statistical methods, the differences of seam smoothness evaluation between warp and weft samples are examined, the relationship between subjective and objective seam smoothness evaluation is analyzed. The generalized difference method is applied to eliminate the self related issues in the regression model of no buckling seam shrinkage rate of weft direction to the seam smoothness of subjective rating value. The relation model between seam smoothness subjective and objective evaluation is established. The results indicate that significant positive linear correlation lies between the warp and weft seam smoothness evaluation of the same fabric, warp seam pucker is more serious than weft. The reciprocal of seam edge buckling rate shows significant positive linear correlation with seam smoothness subjective evaluation, and seam line buckling rate shows significant negative linear correlation with seam smoothness subjective evaluation of weft samples and warp plain samples.
3) Testing and analysis of the structure and properties of thin silk fabrics
Structural parameters, physical and mechanical properties of thin silk fabric sample are tested. The difference of structure parameters, properties between satin and plain samples with same yarn direction is compared. The relationship and difference between warp and weft structural parameters and mechanical properties are analyzed. The correlation among structural parameters, physical and mechanical properties is discussed and the relationship diagram of three types of properties is drawn. The results indicate that the degree of dispersion of the warp plain sample elongation is significantly higher than the satin sample, while its weight, weave tightness and density of the satin sample are significantly lower than plain sample. The warp weave tightness and density are significantly higher than weft. The warp bending rigidity and formability of satin sample are significantly higher than the weft. Structural parameters, physical and mechanical properties show multicollinearity.
4) Correlation between fabric structural parameters, physical and warp mechanical properties and seam smoothness evaluation of thin silk fabrics
Correlation analysis, loess trend analysis and regression analysis is used to select the fabric indexes closely related to the subjective and objective evaluation of warp seam smoothness. The mechanism of quadratic function relationship between warp extensibility, warp bending rigidity and warp seam shrinkage rate is analyzed. Reasons arising the different correlation degree with warp seam smoothness subjective rating value between warp extensibility and warp bending rigidity are discussed. The roadmap of impact from plain fabric structure and performance on warp seam subjective evaluation is built. The relation models and relation diagrams between fabric structure, performance and warp seam evaluations are developed. The results show that
As satin sample is concerned, warp bending rigidity, shearing rigidity and tightness ratio of warp and weft have significant impact on warp seam shrinkage and seam bending rate, meanwhile, shearing rigidity and tightness ratio of warp and weft show high positive linear correlate with seam edge bending rate. As plain sample is concerned, warp extensibility and warp bending rigidity have significant impact on warp seam shrinkage and seam bending rate. Furthermore, warp extensibility, which has indirect impact on subjective evaluation of seam smoothness through the nonlinear relation with warp seam bending rate, also show direct impact on subjective evaluation. Meanwhile, fabric with lower weft density and tightness, or higher formability and extensibility show larger no buckling seam shrinkage rate.
5) Correlation between the physical and mechanical properties and oblique seam smoothness objective evaluation of thin silk fabrics
Fabric thickness, weight and oblique mechanic properties are measured, oblique seam smoothness evaluation are tested. The data are processed with correlation analysis and regression analysis. The results show that45degree seam smoothness subjective rate of thin silk fabric is5degree, fabric stripes are extended, and oblique no bucking shrinkage rate and seam shrinkage rate (the negative of seam elongation rate) are very similar. The first principal component composed of oblique bending rigidity; formability, shearing rigidity and extensibility, and the second principal component mainly composed of weight have significant impact on oblique seam buckling rate. For the thin silk fabric with oblique formability lower than0.25mm and bending rigidity lower than luN.m, the oblique seam elongation rate decrease rapidly following with increasing of these two properties, on the other hand, for those with oblique formability higher than0.25mm and bending rigidity higher than luN.m, it decreasing very slowly from approximately2.5%to0%, or fluxes in this area.
The main innovations of the topics are as follows:
1) Seam smoothness objective evaluation system of thin silk fabrics based on the dimensional changes is established. The system composed of three new objective evaluation indexes, including no buckling seam shrinkage rate, seam edge buckling rate, and seam line buckling rate, shows good factorial ability, more comprehensive and accurate to feature the seam appearance quality.
2) The relationship model system of fabric structure, performance and warp seam smoothness evaluation is established. The fabric structure, performance index which has significant impact on seam smoothness evaluation is determined.
3) The roadmap of impact from plain fabric structure and performance on warp seam subjective evaluation is built. The direct and indirect impact of fabric structure and performance on seam smoothness subjective evaluation is discovered.
Research results can provide new ideals and methods of evaluating seam appearance quality, offer valuable reference for a reasonable choice of thin silk apparel fabrics, accurate formulation the sewing process, and provide theoretical base for seam pucker formation mechanism of thin silk fabric. Furthermore, the study can fill the blank of segmentation research on seam smoothness according to texture variation of fabric.
1)构建基于尺寸变化的薄丝织物缝纫平整度客观评价指标体系
分析织物缝纫中产生的缝缩率相同而缩皱程度不同现象产生的原因,针对缝缩形成机理,提出不屈曲收缩率、边缘离面屈曲率及缝迹离面屈曲率等三个用于评价织物缝纫平整度的新客观指标,构建基于尺寸变化的薄丝织物缝纫平整度客观评价指标体系。
2)薄丝织物缝纫平整度的主客观评价与分析
选取30种生产常用、有代表性的薄丝织物,测定织物缝纫平整度主、客观评价值。运用多种统计方法,分析经纬向缝纫平整度指标间的关系和差异,探讨缝纫平整度主、客观评价指标间的相关性。采用广义差分法,消除纬向缝迹离面屈曲率对纬向缝纫平整度主观评级值模型中自相关问题,建立薄丝织物缝纫平整度主、客观评价指标间关系模型。研究发现,同种织物的经、纬向缝纫平整度评价指标间为正线性关系,经向缝纫缩皱程度比纬向严重,且平纹试样的缝纫平整度主客观评价指标的经、纬向差异更明显；缝条边缘离面屈曲率倒数及缝迹离面屈曲率与织物缝纫平整度主观评级值关系密切,其中前者与经向缝纫平整度主观评级值呈显著正相关,后者与经向平纹试样及纬向试样缝纫平整度主观评级值为显著负相关。
3)薄丝织物结构参数和物理力学性能的测试与分析
测试30种试样的结构参数及物理、力学性能,比较相同纱向两类组织织物结构及性能差异,分析经纬纱向织物结构参数及力学性能的关系和差异,探讨织物结构参数、物理、力学性能间的相关性,并建立3类指标间关系图。研究发现,平纹试样的经向延伸率的离散程度明显高于缎纹试样,但面密度、紧、密度均值明显低于缎纹；织物经向密度、紧度显著高于纬向,缎纹经纬向差异更大,且缎纹试样的经向弯曲刚度、成型性均显著高于纬向；织物结构参数、物理、力学性能间存在多重共线性。
4)薄丝织物结构参数及物理力学性能与经向缝纫平整度主客观评价的相关性
通过相关分析、Loess趋势分析、回归分析刷选出对缎纹试样、平纹试样和全体试样经向缝纫平整度主客观评价起关键影响作用的结构、性能指标；分析经向延伸率、经向弯曲刚度与经向缝缩率之间二次函数关系形成机理；通过路径分析,探讨经向延伸率、经向弯曲刚度与经向缝纫平整度主观评级值相关性强、弱差异产生的的原因,建立平纹织物结构和性能对经向缝纫平整度主观评级值影响的路径图；建立织物结构和性能对经向缝纫平整度主客观评价的关系模型和关系图。结果表明：就缎纹试样而言,对经向缝缩率、经向缝迹离面屈曲率有显著影响的织物性能为经向弯曲刚度、剪切刚度,经纬向紧度比值与经向缝条边缘离面屈曲率及缝纫平整度主观评级值为强正线性相关；就平纹试样而言,对经向缝缩率、经向缝迹离面屈曲率有显著影响的织物性能为经向弯曲刚度、延伸率,且经向延伸率通过与经向缝迹离面屈曲率的非线性关系间接作用于缝纫平整度主观评级值,同时对主观评价产生直接正向作用；纬向紧、密度低,经向成型性及延伸率高的织物,经向缝纫时产生的不屈曲收缩率大。
5)薄丝织物物理力学性能与斜向缝纫平整度客观评价的相关性测试织物厚度、面密度及45度斜向力学性能,测定斜向缝纫平整度主客观评价,用相关分析、回归分析进行数据处理,结果表明：薄丝织物45度斜向缝纫平整度主观评级值都为5级,缝条整体伸长,斜向不屈曲收缩率和缝纫收缩率(缝纫伸长率负数)相近；斜向弯曲刚度、成型性、剪切刚度和斜向延伸率组成的第一主成分,以及面密度为主体的第二主成分对斜向缝迹离面屈曲率有显著影响；斜向成型性小于0.25mm左右、弯曲刚度小于1uN.m左右的薄丝织物,随着上述两个性能的增加,斜向缝纫伸长率快速递减；斜向成型性大于0.25mm左右、弯曲刚度大于1uN.m左右的薄丝织物,随着上述两个性能的增加,斜向缝纫伸长率在大约0%～2.5%区域内波动或缓慢降低。
本课题的主要创新点如下：
1)构建基于尺寸变化的薄丝织物缝纫平整度客观评价指标体系,该体系由不屈曲收缩率、边缘离面屈曲率、缝迹离面屈曲率等三个新的客观评价指标及缝缩率组成,具有较好的析因能力,在表征织物缝纫外观平整度上更全面、准确。
2)构建薄丝织物结构、性能与经向缝纫平整度主客观评价关系模型体系,确定对经向缝纫平整度主客观评价起关键影响的织物结构、性能指标。
3)建立平纹薄丝织物结构和性能对经向缝纫平整度主观评价影响的路径图,确定织物结构和性能对缝纫平整度主观评价的直接和间接作用。
课题研究结果可为薄丝织物缝纫外观质量的评价提供新的思路和方法,对于合理选择薄丝绸服装织物,准确制定缝制工艺提供有价值的参考,亦可为薄丝织物缝皱影响机制提供理论依据,填补了按组织结构对织物缝纫平整度进行细分化研究的空白。
Evaluation and prediction of seam smoothness is the key technology to control the quality of garment sewing appearance quality. The core content includes establishing an accurate and comprehensive seam smoothness evaluation system, and building relation model system between fabric structure, performance and seam smoothness evaluation. Thin silk fabrics is selected as the research object, through experimental testing and statistical analysis, research of seam smoothness objective evaluation method, fabric structure, performance, and its correlation with the objective and subjective evaluation of seam smoothness is conducted. The seam smoothness objective evaluation index system is established, the fabric structure, performance which has significant impact on the seam appearance quality of satin, plain silk fabric is discovered, and the relational model is established. Based on the study of this issue, the project named prediction of seam pucker in thin silk fabric and development of sewing parameters design system is being funded by the Opening Foundation of Zhejiang Provincial Research Center of Clothing Engineering Technology and is being study. The main research content and findings are as follows:
1) Establishing seam smoothness objective evaluation system of thin silk fabrics based on the dimensional changes
The reasons for the differences between seam smoothness subjective evaluation and seam shrinkage rate is analyzed. Based on seam shrinkage formation mechanism, three new objective evaluation indexes, including no buckling seam shrinkage rate, seam edge buckling rate, and seam line buckling rate, are proposed. Thus the seam smoothness objective evaluation system of thin silk fabric is established.
2) Objective and subjective evaluation and analysis of seam smoothness of thin silk fabrics
Thirty kinds of garment production representative thin silk fabrics are selected. Subjective and objective evaluation value of seam smoothness is obtained through sewing experiment. Using a variety of statistical methods, the differences of seam smoothness evaluation between warp and weft samples are examined, the relationship between subjective and objective seam smoothness evaluation is analyzed. The generalized difference method is applied to eliminate the self related issues in the regression model of no buckling seam shrinkage rate of weft direction to the seam smoothness of subjective rating value. The relation model between seam smoothness subjective and objective evaluation is established. The results indicate that significant positive linear correlation lies between the warp and weft seam smoothness evaluation of the same fabric, warp seam pucker is more serious than weft. The reciprocal of seam edge buckling rate shows significant positive linear correlation with seam smoothness subjective evaluation, and seam line buckling rate shows significant negative linear correlation with seam smoothness subjective evaluation of weft samples and warp plain samples.
3) Testing and analysis of the structure and properties of thin silk fabrics
Structural parameters, physical and mechanical properties of thin silk fabric sample are tested. The difference of structure parameters, properties between satin and plain samples with same yarn direction is compared. The relationship and difference between warp and weft structural parameters and mechanical properties are analyzed. The correlation among structural parameters, physical and mechanical properties is discussed and the relationship diagram of three types of properties is drawn. The results indicate that the degree of dispersion of the warp plain sample elongation is significantly higher than the satin sample, while its weight, weave tightness and density of the satin sample are significantly lower than plain sample. The warp weave tightness and density are significantly higher than weft. The warp bending rigidity and formability of satin sample are significantly higher than the weft. Structural parameters, physical and mechanical properties show multicollinearity.
4) Correlation between fabric structural parameters, physical and warp mechanical properties and seam smoothness evaluation of thin silk fabrics
Correlation analysis, loess trend analysis and regression analysis is used to select the fabric indexes closely related to the subjective and objective evaluation of warp seam smoothness. The mechanism of quadratic function relationship between warp extensibility, warp bending rigidity and warp seam shrinkage rate is analyzed. Reasons arising the different correlation degree with warp seam smoothness subjective rating value between warp extensibility and warp bending rigidity are discussed. The roadmap of impact from plain fabric structure and performance on warp seam subjective evaluation is built. The relation models and relation diagrams between fabric structure, performance and warp seam evaluations are developed. The results show that
As satin sample is concerned, warp bending rigidity, shearing rigidity and tightness ratio of warp and weft have significant impact on warp seam shrinkage and seam bending rate, meanwhile, shearing rigidity and tightness ratio of warp and weft show high positive linear correlate with seam edge bending rate. As plain sample is concerned, warp extensibility and warp bending rigidity have significant impact on warp seam shrinkage and seam bending rate. Furthermore, warp extensibility, which has indirect impact on subjective evaluation of seam smoothness through the nonlinear relation with warp seam bending rate, also show direct impact on subjective evaluation. Meanwhile, fabric with lower weft density and tightness, or higher formability and extensibility show larger no buckling seam shrinkage rate.
5) Correlation between the physical and mechanical properties and oblique seam smoothness objective evaluation of thin silk fabrics
Fabric thickness, weight and oblique mechanic properties are measured, oblique seam smoothness evaluation are tested. The data are processed with correlation analysis and regression analysis. The results show that45degree seam smoothness subjective rate of thin silk fabric is5degree, fabric stripes are extended, and oblique no bucking shrinkage rate and seam shrinkage rate (the negative of seam elongation rate) are very similar. The first principal component composed of oblique bending rigidity; formability, shearing rigidity and extensibility, and the second principal component mainly composed of weight have significant impact on oblique seam buckling rate. For the thin silk fabric with oblique formability lower than0.25mm and bending rigidity lower than luN.m, the oblique seam elongation rate decrease rapidly following with increasing of these two properties, on the other hand, for those with oblique formability higher than0.25mm and bending rigidity higher than luN.m, it decreasing very slowly from approximately2.5%to0%, or fluxes in this area.
The main innovations of the topics are as follows:
1) Seam smoothness objective evaluation system of thin silk fabrics based on the dimensional changes is established. The system composed of three new objective evaluation indexes, including no buckling seam shrinkage rate, seam edge buckling rate, and seam line buckling rate, shows good factorial ability, more comprehensive and accurate to feature the seam appearance quality.
2) The relationship model system of fabric structure, performance and warp seam smoothness evaluation is established. The fabric structure, performance index which has significant impact on seam smoothness evaluation is determined.
3) The roadmap of impact from plain fabric structure and performance on warp seam subjective evaluation is built. The direct and indirect impact of fabric structure and performance on seam smoothness subjective evaluation is discovered.
Research results can provide new ideals and methods of evaluating seam appearance quality, offer valuable reference for a reasonable choice of thin silk apparel fabrics, accurate formulation the sewing process, and provide theoretical base for seam pucker formation mechanism of thin silk fabric. Furthermore, the study can fill the blank of segmentation research on seam smoothness according to texture variation of fabric.
引文
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