Identification of Yellow Dye Types in Pre-Columbian Andean Textiles
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A number of pre-Columbian textiles, most discovered innorthern Peru and dating to the Late Intermediate Period(ca. 1050-1200 AD), were analyzed by high-performanceliquid chromatography with diode array and mass spectrometric detection (LC-DAD-MS), after extraction of thedyes with formic acid and methanol. The focus of thiswork was yellow dyes, most of which are present asglycosides of flavonoids and related compounds, with theobjective of identifying the plants originally used fordyeing. Two major types of dyes were found in this set ofspecimens. The first type is characterized by the presenceof flavonol 3-O-sulfates (never before reported as beingpresent in dyes) and 3-O-glycosides; this type was probably derived from the plant Flaveria haumanii or a closerelative. The second type is characterized by the presenceof both chalcone (heretofore not reported in pre-Columbian textiles) and luteolin glycosides, though a specificplant source could not be identified. Two other yellow dyetypes appeared to be present, but there were not enoughexamples to allow conclusions to be drawn. Also presentin some extracts were various hydroxybenzoic acids,which appear to be oxidation products of the respectiveunsubstituted flavonol (3-hydroxyflavone) dyes. Most yellow dyes are synthesized in plants as glycosides (or otherderivatives), which are incorporated more or less intactinto textile fibers during dyeing. Extraction of thesederivatives and analysis by LC-DAD-MS yields distinctiveprofiles that, with appropriate plant reference materials,can aid in the identification of the original plant dyestuffs.

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