Wine is not Coca-Cola: marketization and taste in alternative food networks

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• 作者：Anna Krzywoszynska
• 关键词：Marketization ; Taste ; Ecological embeddedness ; Alternative food networks ; Uncertainty ; Wine
• 刊名：Agriculture and Human Values
• 出版年：2015
• 出版时间：September 2015
• 年：2015
• 卷：32
• 期：3
• 页码：491-503
• 全文大小：463 KB
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• 作者单位：Anna Krzywoszynska (1)
  
  1. Department of Geography, Durham University, Durham, County Durham, DH1 3LE, UK
  
• 刊物主题：Ethics; Agricultural Economics; Veterinary Medicine; History; Evolutionary Biology;
• 出版者：Springer Netherlands
• ISSN：1572-8366

文摘

This paper engages with the question: how can the marketization of ecologically embedded edibles be enabled in alternative food networks? The challenge lies in the fact that ecologically embedded edibles, grown and made through primarily ecological rather than industrial processes, and using artisan, traditional, and quality practices, show variable and uncertain characteristics. The characteristics, or qualities, of ecologically embedded edibles vary both geographically and in time, challenging the creation of stable market networks. How can ecologically embedded wines be sold when there is no certainty about their qualities? In this article I propose that certainty around qualities is not as crucial an element of transactions as some authors suggest, and I draw on the case study of ecologically embedded wines to extract wider lessons of relevance to marketization of foods and drinks in alternative food networks. I suggest that an understanding of taste not as a fixed and unchangeable quality of people and things, but as a relational and reflexive activity between eaters and edibles, can offer a way of valuing uncertainty around product characteristics. Through a cultivation of a 鈥渢aste for uncertainty鈥?consumers鈥?bodies can become enrolled in supporting artisan, quality, and traditional production through their taste buds. Some pitfalls and limitations of this approach are considered in the conclusion.