Kinematics of extreme waves in deep water
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摘要
The velocity profiles under crest of a total of 62 different steep wave events in deep water are measured in laboratory using particle image velocimetry. The waves take place in the leading unsteady part of a wave train, focusing wave fields and random wave series. Complementary fully nonlinear theoretical/numerical wave computations are performed. The experimental velocities have been put on a nondimensional form in the following way: from the wave record (at a fixed point) the (local) trough-to-trough period, TTT and the maximal elevation above mean water level, ηm of an individual steep wave event are identified. The local wavenumber, k and an estimate of the wave slope, are evaluated from ω2/(gk)=1+2, m

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