黔南水族“九阡青布”工艺调查及特色解析
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摘要
"九阡青布"解决了一般蓝靛染土布质地粗硬、容易掉色的问题,在西南蓝靛染面料中独具特色。文章对黔南水族"九阡青布"进行了深入的田野调查,从"九阡青布"的染制材料、染制过程和用途的角度,对工艺流程及其所蕴含的价值进行梳理和分析,发现"九阡青布"虽属蓝靛染的一种,但是独有的反复染制、捶打及木叶/稻田泥染黑工艺,造就了其色泽黑亮、质地柔软又固色耐洗的特色,形成了它与其他水族地区及周围其他民族蓝靛染面料所没有的独特魅力。
Jiuqian black fabric solves the problem of rough and hard homespun fabric dyed by ordinary indigo as well as fading, and it is unique among indigo dyed fabrics in the southwest. In view of dyeing material, dyeing process and use of Jiuqian black fabric, a thorough field investigation was conducted in this paper to clarify and analyze the whole process and value of dyed fabrics. It is found that Jiuqian black fabric belongs to a kind of indigo dye, but it is unique in repeated dyeing, beating and leaf/paddy field mud dyeing process which make the fabric glossy, soft, and washable. All the characteristics form the special charm of Jiuqian black fabric which other Shui areas and surrounding nationalities do not have.
Jiuqian black fabric solves the problem of rough and hard homespun fabric dyed by ordinary indigo as well as fading, and it is unique among indigo dyed fabrics in the southwest. In view of dyeing material, dyeing process and use of Jiuqian black fabric, a thorough field investigation was conducted in this paper to clarify and analyze the whole process and value of dyed fabrics. It is found that Jiuqian black fabric belongs to a kind of indigo dye, but it is unique in repeated dyeing, beating and leaf/paddy field mud dyeing process which make the fabric glossy, soft, and washable. All the characteristics form the special charm of Jiuqian black fabric which other Shui areas and surrounding nationalities do not have.
引文
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[4]潘瑶.水族豆浆染的文化价值及传承现状浅议[J].黔南民族师范学院学报,2013(3):47-49.PAN Yao.An initial study of cultural value and inheritance of soybean milk dyeing [J].Journal of the Qiannan Normal College for Nationalities,2013(3):47-49.
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[10]陈武勇,刘波,刘进,等.植物单宁与铁盐和氧化剂反应的变色规律[J].中国皮革,2003,32(7):12.CHEN Wuyong,LIU Bo,LIU Jin,et al.Color laws of vegetable tannin reacted with ferric salts and oxidizer [J].China Leather,2003,32(7):12.
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[12]贾秀玲.植物靛蓝染料染色及固色工艺研究[D].上海:东华大学,2012:6.JIA Xiuling.Research on Dyeing and Fixing Process of Plant Indigo Dye [D].Shanghai:Donghua University,2012:6.
[13]尹红.广西融水苗族服饰的文化生态研究[D].杭州:中国美术学院,2011:62-64.YIN Hong.A Cultural Ecology Study on Miao’s Costume of Rongshui,Guangxi Province [D].Hangzhou:China Academy of Art,2011:62-64.
[14]谭丽梅,苟锐.贵州肇兴侗布工艺特征探析[J].装饰,2018(5):87-89.TAN Limei,GOU Rui.Analysis on the technological characteristics of the Dong Cloth of Zhaoxing in Guizhou [J].ZHUANGSHI,2018(5):87-89.
[2]杨庭硕.百苗图抄本汇编[M].贵阳:贵州人民出版社,2004:341.YANG Tingshuo.Aboriginal Peoples of Guizhou Province in Pictures [M].Guiyang:Guizhou People’s Press,2004:341.
[3]刘春雨.贵州三都水族豆浆防染工艺及纹样寓意阐释[J].染整技术,2017,39(10):65-69.LIU Chunyu.Craftsmanship and explanation of pattern meaning of soybean-dyeing in Sandu Shui autonomous county of Guizhou [J].Textile Dyeing and Finishing Journal,2017,39(10):65-69.
[4]潘瑶.水族豆浆染的文化价值及传承现状浅议[J].黔南民族师范学院学报,2013(3):47-49.PAN Yao.An initial study of cultural value and inheritance of soybean milk dyeing [J].Journal of the Qiannan Normal College for Nationalities,2013(3):47-49.
[5]谭放炽.略谈贵州民族地区棉纺织业的发展[J].贵州民族研究:1989(3):120.TAN Fangzhi.A brief discussion on the development of cotton textile industry in guizhou ethnic areas [J].Guizhou Ethnic Studies,1989(3):120.
[6]何积全.水族民俗探幽[M].成都:四川民族出版社,1992:46.HE Jiquan.Exploration of Shui’s Folk Customs[M].Chengdu:Sichuan Nationalities Press,1992:46.
[7]三都水族自治县志编纂委员会.三都水族自治县志[M].贵阳:贵州人民出版社,1992:159.Annals Committee of Sandu Shui Autonomous County.County Annals of Sandu Shui Autonomous County [M].Guiyang:Guizhou People’s Publishing Press,1992:159.
[8]雷广正.三都水族自治县三洞乡水族社会调查[G]// 贵州省民族事务委员会,贵州省民族研究所.贵州“六山六水”民族调查资料选编:水族卷.贵阳:贵州民族出版社,2008:33.LEI Guangzheng.Social investigation of Shui in Sandong township of Sandu Shui autonomous county[G]//Ethnic Affairs Commission of Guizhou,Nationality Studies Institute of Guizhou.Guizhou “Six Mountains and Six Rivers” National Survey Data Compilation:Shui’s Volume.Guiyang:Guizhou National Press,2008:33.
[9]杨有义.板引村水族社会调查:节选[G]// 贵州省民族事务委员会,贵州省民族研究所.贵州“六山六水”民族调查资料选编:水族卷.贵阳:贵州民族出版社,2008:116.YANG Youyi.Social investigation of Shui in Bianyin Village [G]// Ethnic Affairs Commission of Guizhou,Nationality Studies Institute of Guizhou.Guizhou “Six Mountains and Six Rivers” National Survey Data Compilation :Shui’s Volume.Guiyang:Guizhou National Press,2008:116.
[10]陈武勇,刘波,刘进,等.植物单宁与铁盐和氧化剂反应的变色规律[J].中国皮革,2003,32(7):12.CHEN Wuyong,LIU Bo,LIU Jin,et al.Color laws of vegetable tannin reacted with ferric salts and oxidizer [J].China Leather,2003,32(7):12.
[11]杜燕孙.国产植物染料染色法[M].2版.上海:商务印书馆,1939:203-206.DU Yansun.Chinese Plant-Dye Dyeing [M].2nd Edi.Shanghai:Commercial Press,1939:203.
[12]贾秀玲.植物靛蓝染料染色及固色工艺研究[D].上海:东华大学,2012:6.JIA Xiuling.Research on Dyeing and Fixing Process of Plant Indigo Dye [D].Shanghai:Donghua University,2012:6.
[13]尹红.广西融水苗族服饰的文化生态研究[D].杭州:中国美术学院,2011:62-64.YIN Hong.A Cultural Ecology Study on Miao’s Costume of Rongshui,Guangxi Province [D].Hangzhou:China Academy of Art,2011:62-64.
[14]谭丽梅,苟锐.贵州肇兴侗布工艺特征探析[J].装饰,2018(5):87-89.TAN Limei,GOU Rui.Analysis on the technological characteristics of the Dong Cloth of Zhaoxing in Guizhou [J].ZHUANGSHI,2018(5):87-89.