近代嘉兴民间女性劳作服饰形态及成因研究
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摘要
近代嘉兴地区民间女性劳作服饰是基于当地自然地域环境与稻作、桑蚕生产方式而自然演化的具有地方特色的服饰。文章从自然地理环境角度出发,注重史料考证和实地调研,从服饰种类与形制、细节、面料、色彩及纹样等方面研究近代嘉兴地区民间女性劳作服饰的形态特征,论述自然地理环境如气候条件、耕作环境、土地条件、生态环境对嘉兴地区民间女性劳作服饰形态特征的影响。研究表明,近代嘉兴地区民间女性劳作服饰形态特征与女性日常生产生活劳动实用功能密切相关,反映了江南"稻作文化"中女性生产生活习俗,体现了民间劳作服饰与自然环境融合的生态审美观。
Morphological characteristics of female folk labor clothing in modern Jiaxing area are based on the interactions between local environment,the rice culture,and silkworm cultivation. From the perspective of natural geographical environment, this article paid attention to historical data verification and field research, studied morphological characteristics of female folk labor clothing in modern Jiaxing from the aspects of costume type,shape,details,fabric,color and pattern,and discussed the effects of geographical environment such as climatic conditions,farming environment,land conditions and ecological environment on morphological characteristics of female folk labor clothing in modern Jiaxing. The research shows that morphological characteristics of female folk labor clothing in modern Jiaxing are closely related to practical functions of daily production and labor of the female,which reflects the customs of women's production and life in the "rice culture"of the south of the Yangtze River and also embodies the ecological aesthetic view of the integration of the folk labor dress and the natural environment.
Morphological characteristics of female folk labor clothing in modern Jiaxing area are based on the interactions between local environment,the rice culture,and silkworm cultivation. From the perspective of natural geographical environment, this article paid attention to historical data verification and field research, studied morphological characteristics of female folk labor clothing in modern Jiaxing from the aspects of costume type,shape,details,fabric,color and pattern,and discussed the effects of geographical environment such as climatic conditions,farming environment,land conditions and ecological environment on morphological characteristics of female folk labor clothing in modern Jiaxing. The research shows that morphological characteristics of female folk labor clothing in modern Jiaxing are closely related to practical functions of daily production and labor of the female,which reflects the customs of women's production and life in the "rice culture"of the south of the Yangtze River and also embodies the ecological aesthetic view of the integration of the folk labor dress and the natural environment.
引文
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[3]张觉民.嘉兴民间美术[M].上海:上海人民美术出版社,2004:131-139.ZHANG Jueming.Jiaxing Folk Art[M].Shanghai:Shanghai People’s Fine Arts Publishing House,2004:131-139.
[4]崔荣荣,张竞琼.近代汉族民间服饰全集[M].北京:中国轻工业出版社,2009:84.CUI Rongrong,ZHANG Jingqiong.The Complete Works of Han Chinese Clothing[M].Beijing:China Light Industry Press,2009:84.
[5]杨荣华.江南水乡文化名城嘉兴[M].杭州:浙江人民出版社,2001:2-6.YANG Ronghua.Jiangnan Water Culture City Jiaxing[M].Hangzhou:Zhejiang People’s Publishing House,2001:2-6.
[6]许桂香,司徒尚纪.我国服饰地理研究管窥与评价[J].热带地理,2007,27(5):477.XU Guixiang,SITU Shangji.A review of the study on dress geography in China[J].Tropical Geography,2007,27(5):477.
[7]刘文,凌冬梅.嘉兴桑蚕史[M].杭州:浙江工商大学出版社,2013:63.LIU Wen,LING Dongmei.Jiaxing Silkworm History[M].Hangzhou:Zhejiang Gongshang University Press,2013:63.
[8]浙江省平湖县县志编纂委员会.平湖县志[M].上海:上海人民出版社,1993:156.Zhejiang Province Pinghu County Annals Compilation Committee.Annals Pinghu County[M].Shanghai:Shanghai People’s Fine Arts Publishing House,1993:156.