栝楼籽油的提取、理化性质及其在化妆品中的应用
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摘要
研究了栝楼籽油的提取工艺、理化性质及其在化妆品中的应用。结果表明,最佳提取条件为:料液比1∶4 g/m L、提取时间为2 h、反应温度为60℃,得油率为66. 8%。栝楼籽油的理化性质:酸值0. 82mgKOH/g、皂化值190. 2 mgKOH/g、碘值132. 6 gI/l00 g;主要含有月桂酸:0. 4%、肉豆蔻酸:0. 2%、棕榈油酸7. 2%、硬脂酸3. 0%、油酸27. 0%、亚油酸32. 2%、栝楼酸23. 1%、花生酸0. 2%、二十碳一烯酸0. 2%、山嵛酸3. 0%、芥子酸0. 4%;角鲨烯:139. 8 mg/100g。其中不饱和脂肪酸酸90. 0%以上。将栝楼籽油制备美白化妆品,通过临床试验,结果显示其效果好,使用方便,安全可靠,无毒无副作用。它的生产工艺与传统化妆品相同,制备工艺简单可行,便于工业化生产。
The extraction process,physicochemical property of Trichosanthes kirilowii Maxim. seeds oil and its application in cosmetics were studied. The results showed that the optimal extraction conditions of Trichosanthes kirilowii Maxim. seeds oil were as follows: Liquid to material ratio is 1∶ 4 g/m L,extraction time is 2 h,reaction temperature is 60 ℃ and its yield of extraction is 66. 8%. The main physiochemical properties of the oil were acid value is0. 82 mgKOH/g,saponification value is 190. 2 mgKOH/g,iodine value is 132. 6 gI/100 g. Trichosanthes kirilowii Maxim. seeds oil mainly contained some fatty acids such as dodecanoic acid: 0. 4%,myristic acid: 0. 2%,palmitic acid: 7. 2%,Stearic acid: 3. 0%,oleic acid: 27. 0%,linoleic acid: 32. 2%,Trichosanthes kirilowii acid:23. 1%,arachidic acid: 0. 2%,docosanoic acid: 0. 2%,sinapinic acid: 0. 4% and Squalene: 139. 8 mg/100 g,and fatty acid in which unsaturated fatty acid content was more than 90. 0%. Trichosanthes kirilowii Maxim. seeds oil was applied in whitening cosmetics. The result showed that this kind of cosmetics is very effective,easy to use,safe and reliable,without any poison and side effect. Its technical skill of production is similar with traditional cosmetics,easy and practicable,which facilitates industrial production.
The extraction process,physicochemical property of Trichosanthes kirilowii Maxim. seeds oil and its application in cosmetics were studied. The results showed that the optimal extraction conditions of Trichosanthes kirilowii Maxim. seeds oil were as follows: Liquid to material ratio is 1∶ 4 g/m L,extraction time is 2 h,reaction temperature is 60 ℃ and its yield of extraction is 66. 8%. The main physiochemical properties of the oil were acid value is0. 82 mgKOH/g,saponification value is 190. 2 mgKOH/g,iodine value is 132. 6 gI/100 g. Trichosanthes kirilowii Maxim. seeds oil mainly contained some fatty acids such as dodecanoic acid: 0. 4%,myristic acid: 0. 2%,palmitic acid: 7. 2%,Stearic acid: 3. 0%,oleic acid: 27. 0%,linoleic acid: 32. 2%,Trichosanthes kirilowii acid:23. 1%,arachidic acid: 0. 2%,docosanoic acid: 0. 2%,sinapinic acid: 0. 4% and Squalene: 139. 8 mg/100 g,and fatty acid in which unsaturated fatty acid content was more than 90. 0%. Trichosanthes kirilowii Maxim. seeds oil was applied in whitening cosmetics. The result showed that this kind of cosmetics is very effective,easy to use,safe and reliable,without any poison and side effect. Its technical skill of production is similar with traditional cosmetics,easy and practicable,which facilitates industrial production.
引文
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[3]韦传宝,祁伟,刘昌利.栝楼籽仁油的特性和抗氧化剂的抗氧化作用[J].中国粮油学报,2009,24(3):92-94WEI Chuanbao,QI Wei,LIU Changli.Trchosanthes kiriowii maxim seed oil:properties and antioxidation effect of antioxidants added[J].Journal of the Chinese Cereals and Oils Association,2009,24(3):92-94
[4]刘纯友,马美湖,靳国锋,等.角鲨烯及其生物活性研究进展[J].中国食品学报,2015,15(5):147-156LIU Chunyou,MA Meihu,Jin Guofeng,et al.Research process on squnlene and bioactivities[J].Journal of Chinese Institute of Food Science and Technology,2015,15(5):147-156
[5]陈学兵,史宣明,赵抒娜,等.植物油中提取角鲨烯的研究进展[J].中国油脂,2013(11):72-75CHEN Xuebing,SHI Xuanming,ZHAO Shuna,et al.Progress of squalene extraction from vegetable oils[J].China Oils and Fats,2013(11):72-75
[6]雷茜茜,赵松林,陈卫军,等.角鲨烯和维生素E抗皮肤衰老作用的比较研究[J].食品工业科技[J].2013,34(13):91-93,98LEI Xixi,ZHAO Songlin,CHEN Weijun,et al.Comparative study on anti-aging effect of squalene and vitamin E to skin[J].Science and Technology of Food Industry,2013,34(13)91-93,98
[7]熊春兰,陈彭生,刘光斌,等.茶油的精制及其在化妆品中的应用[J].应用化工,2011,40(2):236-238XIONG Chunlan,CHEN Pengsheng,LIU Guang,et al.Tea seed oil refining and its application in cosmetics[J].Journal of Applied Chemical Engineering,2011,40(2):236-238
[8]唐冬雁,刘本才,等.化妆品配方设计与制备工艺[M].北京:化学工业出版社,2003TANG Dongyan,LIU Bencai.Formula design and preparation technology of cosmetics[M].Beijing:Chemical Industry Press,2003
[9]周亮,刘元发,金青哲,等.瓜蒌籽油理化性质及瓜蒌酸结构分析[J].食品科学,2007,28(11):116-118ZHOU Liang,LIU Yuanfa,JIN Qingzhe,et al.Analysis on physic-chemical properties of trichosanthes kirilowii seed oil and structure of trichosanic acid[J].Food Science,2007,28(11):116-118
[10]刘光斌,黄忠.一种含竹鼠油的化妆品配方及制备工艺:中国,201110344821.3[P].2013-07-03LIU Guangbin,HUANG Zhong.A formulation and preparation process of a cosmetic containing Rhizomyidae oil[P].China:201110344821.3,2013-07-03
[11]杨梅,李忠军,傅中.化妆品安全性与有效性评价[M].北京:化学工业出版社,2016YANG Mei,LI Zhongjun,FU Zhong.Evaluation of safety and efficacy of cosmetics[M].Beijing:Chemical Industry Press,2016.