红花在丝麻上的染色性能分析与应用研究
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摘要
采用红花进行直接染色与同浴媒染染色,对红花红色素在丝、麻纤维织物上的染色性能做对比分析。结果表明:采用直接染色法时,用柠檬酸配制的红花染液呈亮红色,用醋配制的红花染液呈橙红色,但色牢度较差;采用媒染法染色可明显提高织物的色泽与光泽;不同媒染剂的染色效果不同,色相也会产生变化,颜色多样。植物染色织物可用于现代时尚服装与服饰设计,设计者在创作过程中应整合染色性能、传统工艺及设计理念,通过创新设计不断发扬中华优秀文化与传统手工艺。
The dyeing performance of safflower red pigment in silk and hemp fiber was compared and analyzedby direct dyeing and mordant dyeing. The results showed that the safflower dyeing solution prepared with citric acid was bright red, and the safflower dyeing solution prepared with vinegar was orange-red. However the color fastness of the fabric was poor when it was dyed by direct dyeing method. Using mordant dyeing method can significantly improve the fabric color and luster. Various mordants resulted in different dyeing effects with all kinds colors, and the hue changed.Plant dyed fabrics can be used in modern fashion apparel and apparel design. Designers should integrate dyeing performance, traditional craftsmanship and design concepts in the creative process, and continue to promote Chinese excellent culture and traditional crafts through innovative design.
The dyeing performance of safflower red pigment in silk and hemp fiber was compared and analyzedby direct dyeing and mordant dyeing. The results showed that the safflower dyeing solution prepared with citric acid was bright red, and the safflower dyeing solution prepared with vinegar was orange-red. However the color fastness of the fabric was poor when it was dyed by direct dyeing method. Using mordant dyeing method can significantly improve the fabric color and luster. Various mordants resulted in different dyeing effects with all kinds colors, and the hue changed.Plant dyed fabrics can be used in modern fashion apparel and apparel design. Designers should integrate dyeing performance, traditional craftsmanship and design concepts in the creative process, and continue to promote Chinese excellent culture and traditional crafts through innovative design.
引文
[1]崔岩,刘元凤,郑嵘.蜀锦的红花染色工艺研究[J].丝绸,2016,53(10):25-26.
[2]吕丽华,吴坚,叶方.天然植物染料红花用于丝织物染色性能研究[J].染整技术,2009,31(9):1-2.
[3]余志成.红花色素的稳定性及在真丝上的染色性能研究[J].丝绸,2003(3):20-21.
[4]郑楠琪,郑俊刚,沈佳丽,等.红花檵木叶天然染料提取及真丝绸染色性能研究[J].浙江树人大学学报,2013,13(3):44-48.
[5]崔岩,刘元风,郑嵘.蜀锦的红花染色工艺研究[J].丝绸,2016,53(10):25-26.
[6]楚艳.本真色彩道法自然——初探传统草木染技术在现代服装设计中的应用[J].艺术设计研究,2012(4):10-11.
[7]李维贤.古代茶叶染色的试验研究(待续)[J].印染助剂,2017(8):9-13.
[2]吕丽华,吴坚,叶方.天然植物染料红花用于丝织物染色性能研究[J].染整技术,2009,31(9):1-2.
[3]余志成.红花色素的稳定性及在真丝上的染色性能研究[J].丝绸,2003(3):20-21.
[4]郑楠琪,郑俊刚,沈佳丽,等.红花檵木叶天然染料提取及真丝绸染色性能研究[J].浙江树人大学学报,2013,13(3):44-48.
[5]崔岩,刘元风,郑嵘.蜀锦的红花染色工艺研究[J].丝绸,2016,53(10):25-26.
[6]楚艳.本真色彩道法自然——初探传统草木染技术在现代服装设计中的应用[J].艺术设计研究,2012(4):10-11.
[7]李维贤.古代茶叶染色的试验研究(待续)[J].印染助剂,2017(8):9-13.