织物弯曲性与悬垂性测试新方法
|
摘要
织物弯曲性和悬垂性是影响服装外观的重要性能,其测试目前是分开进行的,文章旨在寻找可将其合二为一的方法。首先测试25块织物的弯曲长度和悬垂系数,然后用自行设计的M形测试法提取新的指标,并将其与弯曲长度和悬垂系数进行对比。研究表明:新方法中的指标均与弯曲长度具有较好的相关性,相关性由大到小依次是柔悬系数、横向投影宽度和纵向投影高度,且柔悬系数与悬垂系数也具有较好的相关性。新方法可同时测试织物弯曲性和悬垂性,即利用1块试样可得到2组数据,且可表达织物在任意一个方向上的悬垂性,尤其适合风衣、休闲裤等有方向性要求的织物。
Fabric bending and draping behaviors are important properties that influence apparel appearance, and until now they are tested separately. This paper aims to find out a method that can combine them into one. First of all, the bending length and draping coefficients of 25 fabrics were tested. Then the self-designed M-shaped method was used to obtain the new indexes which were compared with bending length and draping coefficients. Results showed that the indexes gained by the new method all had good correlations with the bending length, and the correlations from large to small were soft & draping coefficient, horizontal projection width, and vertical projection height. Moreover, the soft & draping coefficient also had a good correlation with the draping coefficient. Thus, the new method can test fabric bending & draping behaviors. In other words, 2 groups of data can be gained by one sample. In addition, the new method could express the fabric draping performance in any direction, especially suitable for wind coat, slacks and other fabrics which have specific requirements.
Fabric bending and draping behaviors are important properties that influence apparel appearance, and until now they are tested separately. This paper aims to find out a method that can combine them into one. First of all, the bending length and draping coefficients of 25 fabrics were tested. Then the self-designed M-shaped method was used to obtain the new indexes which were compared with bending length and draping coefficients. Results showed that the indexes gained by the new method all had good correlations with the bending length, and the correlations from large to small were soft & draping coefficient, horizontal projection width, and vertical projection height. Moreover, the soft & draping coefficient also had a good correlation with the draping coefficient. Thus, the new method can test fabric bending & draping behaviors. In other words, 2 groups of data can be gained by one sample. In addition, the new method could express the fabric draping performance in any direction, especially suitable for wind coat, slacks and other fabrics which have specific requirements.
引文
[1]LIN H, STYLIOS G K. Prediction of post-buckling deformation in fabric drape [J]. Journal of the Textile Institute, 2009, 100(1): 35-43.
[2]FARAJIKHAH S, MADANIPOUR K, SAHARKHIZ S, et al. Shadow moiré aided 3-D reconstruction of fabric drape [J]. Fibers and Polymers, 2012, 13(7): 928-935.
[3]刘成霞, 周澳. 利用十字交叉法测试织物弯曲悬垂性[J]. 纺织学报, 2018, 39(6): 42-46.LIU Chengxia, ZHOU Ao. Measurement of fabric bending and draping properties using crossing method [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2018, 39(6): 42-46.
[4]何琦辉, 王正伟. 利用织物实际弯曲形态测试其弯曲性质的算法[J]. 纺织学报, 2006, 27(12):52-58.HE Qihui, WANG Zhengwei. Arithmetic of bending property of the fabric based on its actual bending shape [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2006, 27(12): 52-58.
[5]刘成霞, 罗秋霞, 施美琴. 织物多方向硬挺度测试方法研究[J]. 现代纺织技术, 2015, 23(2): 56-59.LIU Chengxia, LUO Qiuxia, SHI Meiqin. Study on the measuring method of multi-directional fabric stiffness[J]. Advanced Textile Technology, 2015, 23(2): 56-59.
[6]石风俊, 胡金莲. 织物的弯曲性能[J]. 纺织学报, 2005, 26(3): 15-18.SHI Fengjun, HU Jinlian. Bending behavior of woven fabrics [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2005, 26(3): 15-18.
[7]倪红, 潘永惠. 基于BP神经网络的织物斜向弯曲性能的预测[J]. 纺织学报, 2009, 30(2): 48-51.NI Hong, PAN Yonghui. Prediction of fabric diagonal bending rigidity by BP neural network [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2009, 30(2): 48-51.
[8]刘成霞, 韩永华, 张才前. 基于图像处理的织物弯曲性能测试方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2013, 34(7): 52-56.LIU Chengxia, HAN Yonghua, ZHANG Caiqian. Test method for fabric bending behavior based on image processing[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2013, 34(7): 52-56.
[9]王鹏程, 刘基宏. 基于3D扫描技术的织物悬垂性测试方法[J]. 丝绸, 2018, 55(6): 25-30.WANG Pengcheng, LIU Jihong. Method of fabric drape test based on 3D scanning technology [J]. Journal of Silk, 2018, 55(6): 25-30.
[10]韩剑虹, 周衡书, 武世锋, 等. 基于三维人体形态的织物立体悬垂测试方法与表征[J]. 纺织学报, 2018, 39(1): 39-44.HAN Jianhong, ZHOU Hengshu, WU Shifeng, et al. Test method and characterization of 3-D drape for fabrics based on human body form [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2018, 39(1): 39-44.
[2]FARAJIKHAH S, MADANIPOUR K, SAHARKHIZ S, et al. Shadow moiré aided 3-D reconstruction of fabric drape [J]. Fibers and Polymers, 2012, 13(7): 928-935.
[3]刘成霞, 周澳. 利用十字交叉法测试织物弯曲悬垂性[J]. 纺织学报, 2018, 39(6): 42-46.LIU Chengxia, ZHOU Ao. Measurement of fabric bending and draping properties using crossing method [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2018, 39(6): 42-46.
[4]何琦辉, 王正伟. 利用织物实际弯曲形态测试其弯曲性质的算法[J]. 纺织学报, 2006, 27(12):52-58.HE Qihui, WANG Zhengwei. Arithmetic of bending property of the fabric based on its actual bending shape [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2006, 27(12): 52-58.
[5]刘成霞, 罗秋霞, 施美琴. 织物多方向硬挺度测试方法研究[J]. 现代纺织技术, 2015, 23(2): 56-59.LIU Chengxia, LUO Qiuxia, SHI Meiqin. Study on the measuring method of multi-directional fabric stiffness[J]. Advanced Textile Technology, 2015, 23(2): 56-59.
[6]石风俊, 胡金莲. 织物的弯曲性能[J]. 纺织学报, 2005, 26(3): 15-18.SHI Fengjun, HU Jinlian. Bending behavior of woven fabrics [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2005, 26(3): 15-18.
[7]倪红, 潘永惠. 基于BP神经网络的织物斜向弯曲性能的预测[J]. 纺织学报, 2009, 30(2): 48-51.NI Hong, PAN Yonghui. Prediction of fabric diagonal bending rigidity by BP neural network [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2009, 30(2): 48-51.
[8]刘成霞, 韩永华, 张才前. 基于图像处理的织物弯曲性能测试方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2013, 34(7): 52-56.LIU Chengxia, HAN Yonghua, ZHANG Caiqian. Test method for fabric bending behavior based on image processing[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2013, 34(7): 52-56.
[9]王鹏程, 刘基宏. 基于3D扫描技术的织物悬垂性测试方法[J]. 丝绸, 2018, 55(6): 25-30.WANG Pengcheng, LIU Jihong. Method of fabric drape test based on 3D scanning technology [J]. Journal of Silk, 2018, 55(6): 25-30.
[10]韩剑虹, 周衡书, 武世锋, 等. 基于三维人体形态的织物立体悬垂测试方法与表征[J]. 纺织学报, 2018, 39(1): 39-44.HAN Jianhong, ZHOU Hengshu, WU Shifeng, et al. Test method and characterization of 3-D drape for fabrics based on human body form [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2018, 39(1): 39-44.