管窥三十年来的服色文化研究
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摘要
由于古代中国染色技术的限制,稀有的颜色被少数权贵阶级独享,因此,服色被封建统治者作为区分尊卑贵贱的政治符号。随着阶级社会的消亡,近现代社会服色渐转变为强调自我的个性标签,但是国人意识里传统色彩审美呈现隐性状态。越来越多的本土设计师运用传统服色文化创新设计,面对全球化进程外来文化对民族文化的冲击,服色文化的理论研究还不够。文章对近三十年来服色文化的著作和论文进行梳理和分类,依据研究视角分为服色制度、服色审美、民族服色、服色颜色词、地理服色、传统染色技艺六个方面,指出研究现状之不足,对今后研究提出展望。此举为研究当前服饰色彩经济、探索服饰色彩品牌打下基础,从而传承中国传统服饰色彩文化之精华。
Due to the limitation of dyeing technology in ancient China, rare colors were exclusively enjoyed by a few influential official classes. Therefore, clothing color was used as a political symbol by feudal rulers to distinguish nobility and inferiority. With the disappearance of class society, costume color in modern society has gradually changed into a personality label emphasizing oneself, but the traditional color aesthetics in Chinese consciousness presents a recessive state. More and more local designers use traditional color culture for design innovation. Facing the impact of foreign culture on national culture in the process of globalization, the theoretical study of costume color culture is not enough. This study collated and classified the works and papers of the color culture in the last thirty years. According to the research perspective, the study of colors was divided into six aspects: costume color system, aesthetic taste of costume color, national costume color, costume color word, geographical costume color and traditional dyeing technique. The paper points out the deficiency of the research status and the prospect of future research. This paper lays a foundation for studying the current color economy of clothing, exploring clothing color brand, and inheriting the essence of color culture of traditional Chinese costume.
Due to the limitation of dyeing technology in ancient China, rare colors were exclusively enjoyed by a few influential official classes. Therefore, clothing color was used as a political symbol by feudal rulers to distinguish nobility and inferiority. With the disappearance of class society, costume color in modern society has gradually changed into a personality label emphasizing oneself, but the traditional color aesthetics in Chinese consciousness presents a recessive state. More and more local designers use traditional color culture for design innovation. Facing the impact of foreign culture on national culture in the process of globalization, the theoretical study of costume color culture is not enough. This study collated and classified the works and papers of the color culture in the last thirty years. According to the research perspective, the study of colors was divided into six aspects: costume color system, aesthetic taste of costume color, national costume color, costume color word, geographical costume color and traditional dyeing technique. The paper points out the deficiency of the research status and the prospect of future research. This paper lays a foundation for studying the current color economy of clothing, exploring clothing color brand, and inheriting the essence of color culture of traditional Chinese costume.
引文
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[22]宋金英, 刘国联. “阴阳五行”对先秦服饰色彩的影响[J]. 管子学刊, 2010(1): 88-91.SONG Jinying, LIU Guolian. The influence of Yin Yang and five elements on the color of Pre-Qin costume [J]. Guan Zi Journal, 2010(1): 88-91.
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[2]阎步克. 官阶与服等[M]. 上海: 复旦大学出版社, 2010: 107.YAN Buke. Rank and Service [M]. Shanghai: Fudan University Press, 2010: 107.
[3]罗竹风.汉语大词典6[M]. 上海: 汉语大词典出版社, 1990: 1199.LUO Zhufeng. Chinese Dictionary 6 [M]. Shanghai: Chinese Dictionary Publishing House, 1990: 1199.
[4]苏舆. 春秋繁露义证[M]. 钟哲, 校. 北京: 中华书局, 1992: 185.SU Yu. The Evidence of the Spring and Autumn Period [M]. Annotated by ZHONG Zhe. Beijing: Zhonghua Book Company, 1992: 185.
[5]杨英. 曹魏“改正朔、易服色”考[J]. 史学月刊, 2015(10): 47.YANG Ying. A study of royal calendar and clothing colors reform in the Cao Wei dynasty[J]. Journal of Historical Science, 2015(10): 47.
[6]陈彦青. 观念之色:中国传统色彩研究[M]. 北京: 北京大学出版社, 2015: 7.CHEN Yanqing. The Color of Perception: Research on Chinese Traditional Color [M]. Beijing: Peking University Press, 2015: 7.
[7]冯玲玲. 民族文化的时尚代言:中国服饰的国际化走向[J]. 江西社会科学, 2015,35(8): 236.FENG Lingling. Fashion language of national culture: internationalization of Chinese apparel [J]. Jiangxi Social Sciences, 2015,35(8): 236.
[8]中国科学技术协会. 色彩学学科发展报告[M]. 北京: 中国科学技术出版社, 2012: 19.China Association of Science and Technology. Report on the Development of Color Science [M]. Beijing: China Science and Technology Press, 2012: 19.
[9]李应强. 中国服装色彩史论[M]. 台北: 台北南天书局, 1993: 2.LI Yingqiang. Chinese Clothing Color History Theory [M]. Taipei: Taipei South Tianshu bookstore, 1993: 2.
[10]邵旻. 明代宫廷服饰色彩研究[M]. 上海: 东华大学出版社, 2017: 1.SHAO Min. Study on the Color of Court Costumes in Ming Dynasty [M]. Shanghai: Donghua University Press, 2017: 1.
[11]沈从文. 中国古代服饰研究[M]. 北京: 商务印书馆, 2015: 567, 610, 616.SHEN Congwen. Study on Ancient Chinese Clothing [M]. Beijing: The Commercial Press, 2015: 567, 610, 616.
[12]张志春. 中国服饰文化[M]. 2版.北京: 中国纺织出版社, 2009: 21.ZHANG Zhichun. Chinese Costume Culture [M].2 Edi. Beijing: China Textile Publishing House, 2009: 21.
[13]崔荣荣, 张竞琼. 近代汉族民间服饰全集[M]. 北京: 中国轻工业出版社, 2009: 151.CUI Rongrong, ZHANG Jingqiong. Modern Han Nationality Folk Costume Collection [M]. Beijing: China Light Industry Press, 2009: 151.
[14]陈鹏.汉初服色“外黑内赤”考[J]. 史学月刊, 2015(4): 17.CHEN Peng. A research on the ritual color of the early Han dynasty [J]. Journal of Historical Science, 2015(4): 17.
[15]包铭新, 崔圭顺. 唐代礼官服色考:兼论《步辇图》的服色问题[J]. 故宫博物院院刊, 2006(5): 113.BAO Mingxin, CHOI Kyusoon. A study of the colour of the garments of Tang dynasty ritual officials: the case of Bunian Tu in the collection of the Gugong [J]. Palace Museum Journal, 2006(5): 113.
[16]赵静. 清代《钦定服色肩舆永例》略考[J]. 黑河学刊, 2011(8): 20.ZHAO Jing. A research on the clothing system compiled and published by imperial order of the Qing dynasty [J]. Heihe Journal, 2011(8): 20.
[17]袁利. 汉代丝织品色彩研究[D]. 杭州: 浙江理工大学, 2014.YUAN Li. The Study on Silk Color of Han Dynasty in China [D]. Hangzhou: Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, 2014.
[18]朱芸. 唐宋时期服饰色彩的研究[D]. 西安: 陕西师范大学, 2010.ZHU Yun. Study on the Color of Clothing in Tang and Song Dynasties [D]. Xi’an: Shanxi Normal University, 2010.
[19]陈鹏. 三统说与汉晋服色[J]. 史林, 2017(4): 36.CHEN Peng. The three orthodoxies and orthodox clothing color in Han and Jin dynasties [J]. Historical Review, 2017(4): 36.
[20]李正君. 魏晋故事: 西晋德制的确立与正朔服色问题[J]. 史林, 2017(2): 42.LI Zhengjun. Questions in relation to the selection of the beginning day of new calendar and predominant color of clothes [J]. Historical Review, 2017(2): 42.
[21]杨英. 汉魏经学变迁与曹魏正朔、服色改易[M]//殷宪.北朝史研究.北京: 商务印书馆, 2004: 10-11.YANG Ying. The Changes of Confucian Classics in the Han and Wei Dynasties and the Change of New Calendar and Predominant Color of Clothes[M]// YIN Xian. A Study on the History of the Northern Dynasty. Beijing: The Commercial Press, 2004: 10-11.
[22]宋金英, 刘国联. “阴阳五行”对先秦服饰色彩的影响[J]. 管子学刊, 2010(1): 88-91.SONG Jinying, LIU Guolian. The influence of Yin Yang and five elements on the color of Pre-Qin costume [J]. Guan Zi Journal, 2010(1): 88-91.
[23]杉本正年, 樊一. 中国古代的服色及其思想背景[J]. 成都大学学报(社会科学版), 1995(4): 21-25.SHANENB Zhengnian, FAN Yi. Ancient Chinese clothing and its ideological background [J]. Journal of Chengdu University (Social Science), 1995(4): 21-25.
[24]林朝阳. 中国古代服色的审美意识[J]. 东华大学学报(社会科学版), 2005(3): 21-25.LIN Chaoyang. Aesthetic consciousness of ancient Chinese clothing [J]. Journal of Donghu University (Socail Science), 2005(3): 21-25.
[25]杨凤飞. 中国传统服饰色彩的历史演绎与价值内涵[J]. 装饰, 2005(12): 52.YANG Fengfei. Historical evolution and value connotation of Chinese traditional dress adornment color [J].ZHUANGSHI, 2005(12): 52.
[26]杨芳, 李莉婷. 当代中国人对传统青蓝色彩的心理认知与情感价值回归[C]// 传统色彩与现代应用:海峡两岸传统色彩与现代应用学术研讨会论文集. 北京: 社科智库电子音像出版社, 2010: 148-154.YANG Fang, LI Liting. The contemporary Chinese people’s psychological cognition and emotional value return to the traditional blue color[C]// Traditional Colors and Modern Application: A Collection of Academic Symposium on Traditional Color and Modern Application on both Sides of the Taiwan Straits. Beijing: Electronic Audio and Video Publishing House of Social Science Think Tank, 2010: 148-154.
[27]李蕊. 浅析满族服色色彩特点与服装设计应用[C]//传统色彩与现代应用:海峡两岸传统色彩与现代应用学术研讨会论文集. 北京: 社科智库电子音像出版社, 2010.LI Rui. Analysis of color characteristics and clothing design application of Manchu[C]// Traditional Color and Modern Application: A Collection of Academic Symposium on Traditional Color and Modern Application on both Sides of the Taiwan Straits. Beijing: Electronic Audio and Video Publishing House of Social Science Think Tank, 2010.
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