湖南通道侗族织锦技艺调查
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摘要
文章结合文献和田野调查,对湖南通道侗族自治县的侗族织锦技艺(以下简称通道侗锦)的基本类型与制作工序进行了详细梳理与总结。通道侗锦按颜色可分为素锦和彩锦,按用途可分为日用锦、寿锦、法锦等,根据织造工具不同可分为机织锦和手工编织花带,根据构图方式可分为大花锦和小花锦;侗锦有斜织机和木梳式手工编织两种织造方式,其中斜织机织锦有十三道主要工序,每一道工序都没有图谱,仅靠织娘口耳相传。通道侗锦是侗族传统生活方式的重要组成部分,丰富多彩的纹样是侗族民间信仰的符号化表征,它的保护与传承需要唤醒当地织娘的文化自觉,营造良好的整体文化生态;同时还必须在传统与创新之间不断调试,既实现对技艺及其文化内涵的坚守与保护,同时又能实现创新和传承。
Basing on the literature researches and fieldworks,this paper classifies and summarizes the basic types and production processes of the Dong Brocade crafts in Tongdao of Hunan Province. They are always divided into the plain brocade and the colorful one by the color. They are also classified as the daily brocade,the longevity brocade,the lord brocade and so on by function. Moreover,they also can be classified according to weaving tools as the machine and hand woven ones,and the big brocade and the floret brocade by the composition. There are two ways of making. One is made by the oblique loom and the other by a special kind of wooden comb. The process of making by oblique loom is very complex and includes thirteen steps.There are no any textbooks or atlas for women weaver during the whole process,and they always teach others orally. It concludes Dong Brocade constitutes an important part of traditional lifestyle of Dong people. The colorful patterns are the symbolic representation of Dong people's cultural tradition and beliefs. Waking up the local people's cultural consciousness and crea-ting a good cultural environment are the most important things for the protection and inheritance for the Dong Brocade. Meanwhile,we should maintain the right balances between tradition and innovation. It means we should try our best to achieve the aim of guarding and protecting for this hand-made technology when we strive for technological innovation.
Basing on the literature researches and fieldworks,this paper classifies and summarizes the basic types and production processes of the Dong Brocade crafts in Tongdao of Hunan Province. They are always divided into the plain brocade and the colorful one by the color. They are also classified as the daily brocade,the longevity brocade,the lord brocade and so on by function. Moreover,they also can be classified according to weaving tools as the machine and hand woven ones,and the big brocade and the floret brocade by the composition. There are two ways of making. One is made by the oblique loom and the other by a special kind of wooden comb. The process of making by oblique loom is very complex and includes thirteen steps.There are no any textbooks or atlas for women weaver during the whole process,and they always teach others orally. It concludes Dong Brocade constitutes an important part of traditional lifestyle of Dong people. The colorful patterns are the symbolic representation of Dong people's cultural tradition and beliefs. Waking up the local people's cultural consciousness and crea-ting a good cultural environment are the most important things for the protection and inheritance for the Dong Brocade. Meanwhile,we should maintain the right balances between tradition and innovation. It means we should try our best to achieve the aim of guarding and protecting for this hand-made technology when we strive for technological innovation.
引文
[1]通道侗族自治县概况编写组.通道侗族自治县概况[M].长沙:湖南人民出版社,1986.
[2]王彦.侗族织绣[M].昆明:云南大学出版社,2006.
[3]吴传仪.侗锦浅析[J].民族论坛,1992(03):79-81.
[4]吴景军.湖南通道侗锦国家级非物质文化遗产申报书[R].湖南通道:湖南通道县文化局,2007.
[5]林良斌,吴炳升主编,服饰大观[M].北京:中国国际文艺出版社,2008.
[6]蔡荭.侗锦艺术特色初探[J].广西民族研究,2004(02):77-81.
[7]左汉中,湖南民间美术全集——民间织锦[M].湖南美术出版社,1994.
[8]任玉凤.对女红的技术史研究的启示——评《遮蔽的美丽——中国女红文化》[J].中国科技史杂志,2008(01):101-105.
[9]张柏如.侗族服饰艺术探秘:下[M].北京:北京汉声出版社,1994.
(1)欧瑞凡:土生土长的湖南通道县侗族人,曾任通道县文化局纪检组长,2008年开始负责侗锦织艺、侗族芦笙、侗戏等非遗项目的申报和传承工作。2009年初,通道侗族自治县成立了呀啰耶侗锦织艺发展有限公司,欧瑞凡任总经理,并辞去通道县文化局的职务,踏上了侗锦织艺的开发与传承之路。2012年2月,呀啰耶侗锦织艺发展有限公司被国家文化部授予“国家级非物质文化遗产生产性保护示范基地”。呀啰耶侗锦品牌也多次在国际平台上亮相,引起社会广泛关注。
(2)张朵朵:湖南大学艺术设计学院副教授,从事传统刺绣工艺研究,关注侗锦和花瑶。
(1)源自2014年4月12日在通道县牙屯堡镇传承人家里对侗锦国家级传承人粟田梅的访谈记录。
(2)黄颖:湖南大学设计艺术学院硕士研究生,从事少数民族织锦研究。
[2]王彦.侗族织绣[M].昆明:云南大学出版社,2006.
[3]吴传仪.侗锦浅析[J].民族论坛,1992(03):79-81.
[4]吴景军.湖南通道侗锦国家级非物质文化遗产申报书[R].湖南通道:湖南通道县文化局,2007.
[5]林良斌,吴炳升主编,服饰大观[M].北京:中国国际文艺出版社,2008.
[6]蔡荭.侗锦艺术特色初探[J].广西民族研究,2004(02):77-81.
[7]左汉中,湖南民间美术全集——民间织锦[M].湖南美术出版社,1994.
[8]任玉凤.对女红的技术史研究的启示——评《遮蔽的美丽——中国女红文化》[J].中国科技史杂志,2008(01):101-105.
[9]张柏如.侗族服饰艺术探秘:下[M].北京:北京汉声出版社,1994.
(1)欧瑞凡:土生土长的湖南通道县侗族人,曾任通道县文化局纪检组长,2008年开始负责侗锦织艺、侗族芦笙、侗戏等非遗项目的申报和传承工作。2009年初,通道侗族自治县成立了呀啰耶侗锦织艺发展有限公司,欧瑞凡任总经理,并辞去通道县文化局的职务,踏上了侗锦织艺的开发与传承之路。2012年2月,呀啰耶侗锦织艺发展有限公司被国家文化部授予“国家级非物质文化遗产生产性保护示范基地”。呀啰耶侗锦品牌也多次在国际平台上亮相,引起社会广泛关注。
(2)张朵朵:湖南大学艺术设计学院副教授,从事传统刺绣工艺研究,关注侗锦和花瑶。
(1)源自2014年4月12日在通道县牙屯堡镇传承人家里对侗锦国家级传承人粟田梅的访谈记录。
(2)黄颖:湖南大学设计艺术学院硕士研究生,从事少数民族织锦研究。