基本花样小图在针织提花组织中的设计与应用
|
摘要
基于岛精服装设计系统SDS-ONE APPEX3,介绍基本花样小图的结构及功能线描绘,并根据针织提花组织的编织原理,分别设计了单面均匀提花、背床1+1拉网提花、全出针提花、芝麻点提花、双面空气层提花、翻针提花的基本花样小图,阐述其在针织提花组织中的设计与应用;此外,采用SIR122 SV12电脑横机编织8种针织提花织物小样,对比分析不同针织提花组织的性能特点,为羊毛衫提花组织的工艺设计与应用提供了一定的理论与技术支持。
Knitted jacquard stitch is an essential aspect of sweater design. Base on SHIMA SEIKI apparel design system SDS-ONE APPEX3,the composition and function of option line bar for package base pattern were introduced. In addition,according to the knitting theory of jacquard stitch,the package base pattern for float jacquard,double jacquard with1+1 float stitch backing,horizontally striped backing,birds eye backing,tubular jacquard and transfer jacquard were designed respectively. Furthermore,eight panels of different jacquard were knitted by SHIMA SEIKI SIR122 SV12 computer flat knitting machine.The structural characteristics and performances for each jacquard were analyzed,which can provide theoretical and technical support for knitted jacquard design of sweater.
Knitted jacquard stitch is an essential aspect of sweater design. Base on SHIMA SEIKI apparel design system SDS-ONE APPEX3,the composition and function of option line bar for package base pattern were introduced. In addition,according to the knitting theory of jacquard stitch,the package base pattern for float jacquard,double jacquard with1+1 float stitch backing,horizontally striped backing,birds eye backing,tubular jacquard and transfer jacquard were designed respectively. Furthermore,eight panels of different jacquard were knitted by SHIMA SEIKI SIR122 SV12 computer flat knitting machine.The structural characteristics and performances for each jacquard were analyzed,which can provide theoretical and technical support for knitted jacquard design of sweater.
引文
[1]沈雷,罗娟.点缀色对针织毛衫设计风格的影响[J].毛纺科技,2009,37(5):42-44.
[2]范友红.基于服装结构原理的针织毛衫板型优化探讨[D].上海:东华大学,2007.
[3]路丽莎,宋晓霞.分形图案在电脑提花针织面料上的应用[J].丝绸,2017,54(2):25-29.
[4]杜慧芳.全成型毛衫图案设计方法与应用研究[J].毛纺科技,2018,46(8):76-78.
[5]王薇,蒋高明,高梓越,等.纬编提花织物计算机辅助设计模型与算法[J].纺织学报,2018,39(3):161-166.
[6]范友红.羊毛衫提花与嵌花的设计与工艺[J].毛纺科技,2006,34(1):34-38.
[7]陈文焰.毛针织双面提花织物悬垂性的探讨[J].毛纺科技,2014,42(11):41-45.
[8]裘玉英,陈天里.电脑提花针织物组织结构设计及性能分析[J].丝绸,2013,50(2):35-38.
[9]吴秉坚.当代针织服装手册[M].香港:香港生产力促进局,2002:139-141.
[10]路丽莎,宋晓霞.摩洛哥瓷器图案在针织提花面料上的工艺实现[J].纺织导报,2016(6):108-110.
[2]范友红.基于服装结构原理的针织毛衫板型优化探讨[D].上海:东华大学,2007.
[3]路丽莎,宋晓霞.分形图案在电脑提花针织面料上的应用[J].丝绸,2017,54(2):25-29.
[4]杜慧芳.全成型毛衫图案设计方法与应用研究[J].毛纺科技,2018,46(8):76-78.
[5]王薇,蒋高明,高梓越,等.纬编提花织物计算机辅助设计模型与算法[J].纺织学报,2018,39(3):161-166.
[6]范友红.羊毛衫提花与嵌花的设计与工艺[J].毛纺科技,2006,34(1):34-38.
[7]陈文焰.毛针织双面提花织物悬垂性的探讨[J].毛纺科技,2014,42(11):41-45.
[8]裘玉英,陈天里.电脑提花针织物组织结构设计及性能分析[J].丝绸,2013,50(2):35-38.
[9]吴秉坚.当代针织服装手册[M].香港:香港生产力促进局,2002:139-141.
[10]路丽莎,宋晓霞.摩洛哥瓷器图案在针织提花面料上的工艺实现[J].纺织导报,2016(6):108-110.