近代汉族女装传统滚边的分类与制作工艺
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摘要
通过对江南大学民间服饰传习馆内收藏的女装实物资料的研究、整理,将近代汉族传统滚边装饰工艺分为单独滚边工艺和组合滚边工艺两大类别,并将典型的工艺制作步骤、针法等信息详细记录下来。在此基础上,分别总结出单独滚边工艺、滚滚组合、滚镶组合、滚嵌组合工艺各自的缝制特点,并进一步从装饰部位、类型、面料、演变等方面总结出滚边装饰规律;从裁剪、缝制等方面总结出滚边工艺技巧。物质的东西随着时间的推移,会逐渐消失,但信息却可以较好地保存延续。为有效地传承传统装饰工艺的精髓,对传统滚边工艺在现代服装设计中的传承提出了一些建议。
Through studying and sorting out the collections of women's apparel in the Folk Costumes Museum of Jiangnan University,the traditional piping process of the modern Han nationality is divided into two major categories:the individual piping process and the combination piping process,and a typical process of making steps,needling and other information are recorded in detail. Based on the above information,respective sewing features of the individual piping process,piping-piping combination,piping-inlay combination,piping-embedding combination are summed up,and the law of piping decoration is further summed up from the decoration parts,types,fabrics,evolution and other aspects. Besides,the craftsmanship skills of piping are summed up from cutting and sewing,etc. As time goes by,material things will gradually disappear,but the information can be well preserved. In order to effectively inherit the essence of the traditional decoration process,some suggestions are put forward for the inheritance strategy of the traditional piping process in modern clothing design.
Through studying and sorting out the collections of women's apparel in the Folk Costumes Museum of Jiangnan University,the traditional piping process of the modern Han nationality is divided into two major categories:the individual piping process and the combination piping process,and a typical process of making steps,needling and other information are recorded in detail. Based on the above information,respective sewing features of the individual piping process,piping-piping combination,piping-inlay combination,piping-embedding combination are summed up,and the law of piping decoration is further summed up from the decoration parts,types,fabrics,evolution and other aspects. Besides,the craftsmanship skills of piping are summed up from cutting and sewing,etc. As time goes by,material things will gradually disappear,but the information can be well preserved. In order to effectively inherit the essence of the traditional decoration process,some suggestions are put forward for the inheritance strategy of the traditional piping process in modern clothing design.
引文
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[9]陈研,张竞琼,李向军.近代旗袍的造型变革以及裁剪技术[J].纺织学报,2012,33(9):110-115.CHEN Yan,ZHANG Jingqiong,LI Xiangjun.Molding development of Chinese dress and its cutting technology[J].Journal of Textile Research,2012,33(9):110-115.
[10]刘建萍,单毓馥.滚边的设计方法及工艺研究[J].天津纺织科技,2004,42(1):44-48.LIU Jianping,SHAN Yufu.Design method of bound and its process study[J].Tianjin Textile Science&Technology,2004,42(1):44-48.
[11]穆慧玲,陈海鹏.服装设计与中国传统文化的传承[J].国际纺织导报,2008(2):75-76,78.MU Huiling,CHEN Haipeng.Clothing design and the transferring of Chinese traditional culture[J].Melliand China,2008(2):75-76,78.
[2]刘若琳.中式服装大襟结构研究[J].丝绸,2015,52(6):32-35.LIU Ruolin.Study on placket structure of Chinese clothing[J].Journal of Silk,2015,52(6):32-35.
[3]江群慧.滚边工艺及其在服装设计中的应用[J].浙江纺织职业技术学院学报,2012(1):30-33.JIANG Qunhui.Piping technique and its application in fashion design[J].Journal of Zhejiang Textile&Fashion Vocational College,2012(1):30-33.
[4]许平山,张竞琼,曾宪锋,等.近代民间肚兜形制及其手工修复针法[J].纺织学报,2016,37(3):132-137.XU Pingshan,ZHANG Jingqiong,ZENG Xianfeng,et al.Modern folk bellyband shape and manual repairing stitch[J].Journal of Textile Research,2016,37(3):132-137.
[5]张竞琼,宋倩.苏南水乡妇女服饰中的镶滚工艺[J].天津工业大学学报,2009,28(2):36-40.ZHANG Jingqiong,SONG Qian.Binding craft of women’s clothing of Sunan watery region[J].Journal of Tianjin Polytechnic University,2009,28(2):36-40.
[6]王小红.近代传统女装装饰工艺研究及其对现代女装设计的启示[D].无锡:江南大学,2009:7-9.WANG Xiaohong.Research on Decoration Craft of Traditional Dress in Modern Time&Implication for Modern Woman Design[D].Wuxi:Jiangnan University,2009:7-9.
[7]左花苹.装饰工艺在服装设计中的运用[J].美术教育研究,2012(8):70-71.ZUO Huaping.The application of decorative technology in costume design[J].Art Education Research,2012(8):70-71.
[8]崔荣荣,牛犁.明代以来汉族民间服饰变革与社会变迁(1368—1949年)[M].武汉:武汉理工大学出版社,2016:61-62.CUI Rongrong,NIU Li.The Change of Han People’s Costumes and Social Changes since the Ming Dynasty(1368-1949)[M].Wuhan:Wuhan University of Technology Press,2016:61-62.
[9]陈研,张竞琼,李向军.近代旗袍的造型变革以及裁剪技术[J].纺织学报,2012,33(9):110-115.CHEN Yan,ZHANG Jingqiong,LI Xiangjun.Molding development of Chinese dress and its cutting technology[J].Journal of Textile Research,2012,33(9):110-115.
[10]刘建萍,单毓馥.滚边的设计方法及工艺研究[J].天津纺织科技,2004,42(1):44-48.LIU Jianping,SHAN Yufu.Design method of bound and its process study[J].Tianjin Textile Science&Technology,2004,42(1):44-48.
[11]穆慧玲,陈海鹏.服装设计与中国传统文化的传承[J].国际纺织导报,2008(2):75-76,78.MU Huiling,CHEN Haipeng.Clothing design and the transferring of Chinese traditional culture[J].Melliand China,2008(2):75-76,78.