新型羊毛精纺面料抗皱性能和力学性能研究
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摘要
采用KES风格仪对几种新型羊毛精纺面料进行测试,通过对面料折皱回复性能和基本力学性能测试分析发现,对于抗皱面料,由于采用强捻纱,织物表面比较光洁,摩擦因数较低;织物面密度和经纬密度较低,比较轻薄,弯曲刚度较低;采用平纹组织,织物的剪切刚度较高,剪切滞后量较小,因而抵抗剪切变形的能力强,容易回复,具有较好的压缩回弹性,因此,该抗皱面料具有较好的抗皱性能。对于对照面料,由于采用斜纹组织,经纬纱线之间相对滑移容易,因此急弹性回复角略高于抗皱面料,但缓弹性回复角略低于抗皱面料。对于暖感面料,由于经过特殊后整理工艺,其具有手感温和,压缩比功较高,压缩功回复率较低的特点,且布面丰满,不光滑,所以表面摩擦因数较大。对于冷感面料,由于进行了抗紫外线整理,因此织物表面的摩擦因数较高、表面粗糙。通过比对为织造适合不同需求的羊毛面料提供参考。
Wrinkle recovery rate and basic mechanical properties of several novel wool worsted fabrics were tested and analyzed with KES. Because of strong twisted yarn adopted, wrinkle recovery fabric has a clean surface and low friction coefficient. Secondly, due to the lower weight per square meter and warp/weft density, the fabric is thinner and bending rigidity of wrinkle recovery fabric is lower. Thirdly, by using the plain weave, wrinkle recovery fabric has a high shearing rigidity and smaller shearing lag, which brings the fabric with good shear deformation resistivity and recover. Besides, wrinkle recovery fabric has better compression resilience. As a result, the fabric has good anti-crease property. The immediate elastic recovery angle of contrast fabric is better than that of anti-crease fabric, because twill weave was used in this fabric and it is easily for yarns to slip. However, delayed elastic recovery angle of contrast fabric is lower than that of anti-crease fabric. Because of special finishing process, warm feeling fabric has a higher thickness, higher compression ratio work, lower compression work recovery rate; its surface is full, so the surface friction coefficient is larger and its surface is not smooth. Therefore, this fabric has a warm feeling and has the same name. After anti-ultraviolet radiation finish, the friction coefficient of cold feeling fabric is higher which indicates a rough surface.
Wrinkle recovery rate and basic mechanical properties of several novel wool worsted fabrics were tested and analyzed with KES. Because of strong twisted yarn adopted, wrinkle recovery fabric has a clean surface and low friction coefficient. Secondly, due to the lower weight per square meter and warp/weft density, the fabric is thinner and bending rigidity of wrinkle recovery fabric is lower. Thirdly, by using the plain weave, wrinkle recovery fabric has a high shearing rigidity and smaller shearing lag, which brings the fabric with good shear deformation resistivity and recover. Besides, wrinkle recovery fabric has better compression resilience. As a result, the fabric has good anti-crease property. The immediate elastic recovery angle of contrast fabric is better than that of anti-crease fabric, because twill weave was used in this fabric and it is easily for yarns to slip. However, delayed elastic recovery angle of contrast fabric is lower than that of anti-crease fabric. Because of special finishing process, warm feeling fabric has a higher thickness, higher compression ratio work, lower compression work recovery rate; its surface is full, so the surface friction coefficient is larger and its surface is not smooth. Therefore, this fabric has a warm feeling and has the same name. After anti-ultraviolet radiation finish, the friction coefficient of cold feeling fabric is higher which indicates a rough surface.
引文
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[3] 何新杰. 丝素整理剂的制备及性能对羊毛面料抗皱性能的影响[J].毛纺科技, 2000,28(3):30-32.
[4] 王鸿博,虞学锋,洪剑寒,等. 羊毛面料的生物抗皱整理[J]. 毛纺科技, 2006,34(4):16-19.
[5] 王懽,叶润德,邹鄂湘.羊毛服装抗皱整理的机理研究[J].纺织导报,1996(4):61-62.
[6] 钟雨晴,郑鑫,易凯,等.偶联剂对羊毛面料抗皱性能的影响[C]//全国针织技术交流会论文集,天津:天津市针织技术研究所:2014.
[7] 杨俊文.精纺轻薄型纯毛织物抗皱免烫整理研究[D]. 西安:西安工程大学, 2005.
[8] 姚薇薇,王建萍.氨纶弹性针织物加工与性能研究[J].浙江纺织服装职业技术学院学报,2011(3):1-6.
[9] 欧奕,赵俐.织物性能及缝纫工艺对雪纺织物缝口强度的影响[J].国际纺织导报,2013(11):53-56.
[10] 刘琳.织物组织结构与性能关系的研究[J].中国纤检,2008(9):43-46.
[11] 齐萌,赵金龙,沈兰萍,等.PTT抗折皱织物的开发及服用性能测试[J].合成纤维,2013(7):50-52.
[12] 金胜男.聚马来酸的合成及其在真丝抗皱整理中的应用[D].苏州:苏州大学,2009.
[13] 任鹏贞.弹性聚酯纤维及与毛交织织物的性能研究[D].上海:东华大学,2011.
[14] 龚协辉,翁云菊,范德炘.苎麻织物机械性能研究[J].中国纺织大学学报,1993(3):78-84.
[15] 刘婷婷.PTT形状记忆长丝织物的开发与性能研究[D].西安:西安工程大学,2014.