外衣用棉经编织物结构设计与生产工艺
|
摘要
利用棉纱和经编技术的特性,针对棉纱的断裂强力和毛羽难以满足经编用纱要求的问题,提出了棉纱在经编中应用的关键技术;给出了从纺纱方法、整经及织造工艺过程中尝试采用的解决措施,选用集聚纺棉纱,在整经时加白油使棉纱毛羽贴伏以减小与成圈机件的摩擦,在分纱筘上将棉纱分为2层以减少纱线间摩擦,降低表观毛羽间的纠缠,最后从经编结构和工艺设计角度出发开发了2款棉经编外衣面料,利用棉纱作衬纬组织与前梳纱线形成闪避效应获得一面棉一面涤的双面效应,棉纱作成圈组织配合空穿形成斜纹效应。
On the basis of cotton yarn and warp knitting,aiming at the problem that the mechanical properties such as cotton yarn strength at break and hairs were difficult to meet with the technical requirements of warp knitting,the solution to solve the technical problems of cotton yarns in warp knitting at high speed were proposed. It presented the key technologies of cotton yarns used in the warp knitting and provided the technical solutions among yarn spinning method,beaming and knitting processes. The compact yarns were selected,and the white oil was added when beaming-warping that can make the yarn hairs lodging to decrease the friction between the yarn and the loop formation elements. The cotton yarns were divided into two layers which could cut down the hairs' tangling. Finally,two warp knitted outwear products using cotton yarns were developed from the perspective of the warp structure and process design.The two-sided effect is obtained with cotton yarn as the partial weft insertion. The reason is that the front knitting guide bar and the back laying-in guide bar with cotton yarn underlap in the same direction,and the inlay evaded the knitting bar underlaps and slipped through onto the technical back of the structure.Warp twill is designed with cotton yarn as looping structure,whose guide bar is part-threaded.
On the basis of cotton yarn and warp knitting,aiming at the problem that the mechanical properties such as cotton yarn strength at break and hairs were difficult to meet with the technical requirements of warp knitting,the solution to solve the technical problems of cotton yarns in warp knitting at high speed were proposed. It presented the key technologies of cotton yarns used in the warp knitting and provided the technical solutions among yarn spinning method,beaming and knitting processes. The compact yarns were selected,and the white oil was added when beaming-warping that can make the yarn hairs lodging to decrease the friction between the yarn and the loop formation elements. The cotton yarns were divided into two layers which could cut down the hairs' tangling. Finally,two warp knitted outwear products using cotton yarns were developed from the perspective of the warp structure and process design.The two-sided effect is obtained with cotton yarn as the partial weft insertion. The reason is that the front knitting guide bar and the back laying-in guide bar with cotton yarn underlap in the same direction,and the inlay evaded the knitting bar underlaps and slipped through onto the technical back of the structure.Warp twill is designed with cotton yarn as looping structure,whose guide bar is part-threaded.
引文
[1]ZHU G,MILITKY J,WANG Y,et al.Study on the wicking property of cotton fabric[J].Fibres&Textiles in Eastern Europe,2015,23(2):137-140.
[2]姜淑媛,陈志华.针织物与机织物舒适性的比较与研究[J].纺织学报,2004,25(2):87-88.JIANG Shuyuan,CHEN Zhihua.Comparison and research on comfort between knitted and woven fabrics[J].Journal of Textile Research,2004,25(2):87-88.
[3]YUKSEKKAYA M E.Fiber fly generation of 100%cotton yarns during warp preparation[J].Journal of the Textile Institute,2010,101(3):270-275.
[4]CELIK P,KADOGLU H.A research on yarn liveliness tendency of staple yarns[J].Tekstil Ve Konfeksiyon,2009,19(3):189-196.
[5]胡瑜,缪旭红.经编织造过程对短纤纱力学性能的影响[J].纺织学报,2016,37(7):55-60.HU Yu,MIAO Xuhong.Effect of warp knitting on mechanical properties of spun yarn[J].Journal of Textile Research,2016,37(7):55-60.
[6]王水,王敏其,关会成,等.高支精梳棉经编无缝服装的开发[J].针织工业,2014(3):1-3.WANG Shui,WANG Minqi,GUAN Huicheng,et al.High count combed cotton yarn warp knitted seamless garment product development[J].Knitting Industries,2014(3):1-3.
[7]陈静静,蒋高明.紧密纺纯棉经编产品的编织工艺探讨[J].针织工业,2005(8):1-3,68.CHEN Jingjing,JIANG Gaoming.Technology discussion of compact spinning cotton warp knitting products[J].Knitting Industries,2005(8):1-3,68.
[8]陈红霞,蒋高明.经编机经纱动态张力数字化测试[J].针织工业,2004(6):35-38.CHEN Hongxia,JIANG Gaoming.Warp knitting machine dynamic tension of warp digital test[J].Knitting Industries,2004(6):35-38.
[9]程隆棣,周志华.紧密纺纱技术与毛羽问题[J].棉纺织技术,2003,31(4):18-20.CHENG Longdi,ZHOU Zhihua.Technology of compact spinning and hairness problem[J].Cotton Textile Technology,2003,31(4):18-20.
[10]朱新卯,刘云霞.氨棉经编内衣面料的开发[J].针织工业,2007(1):23-25.ZHU Xinmao,LIU Yunxia.The development of spandex-cotton warp knitted underwear fabrics[J].Knitting Industries,2007(1):23-25.
[11]王英武,郭双星.1452型整经机断纱自停控制电路的改进[J].棉纺织技术,2004,32(11):32.WANG Yingwu,GUO Shuangxing.The improvement of control circuit of yarn breaking automatic stop device on type 1452 warping machine[J].Cotton Textile Technology,2004,32(11):32.
[2]姜淑媛,陈志华.针织物与机织物舒适性的比较与研究[J].纺织学报,2004,25(2):87-88.JIANG Shuyuan,CHEN Zhihua.Comparison and research on comfort between knitted and woven fabrics[J].Journal of Textile Research,2004,25(2):87-88.
[3]YUKSEKKAYA M E.Fiber fly generation of 100%cotton yarns during warp preparation[J].Journal of the Textile Institute,2010,101(3):270-275.
[4]CELIK P,KADOGLU H.A research on yarn liveliness tendency of staple yarns[J].Tekstil Ve Konfeksiyon,2009,19(3):189-196.
[5]胡瑜,缪旭红.经编织造过程对短纤纱力学性能的影响[J].纺织学报,2016,37(7):55-60.HU Yu,MIAO Xuhong.Effect of warp knitting on mechanical properties of spun yarn[J].Journal of Textile Research,2016,37(7):55-60.
[6]王水,王敏其,关会成,等.高支精梳棉经编无缝服装的开发[J].针织工业,2014(3):1-3.WANG Shui,WANG Minqi,GUAN Huicheng,et al.High count combed cotton yarn warp knitted seamless garment product development[J].Knitting Industries,2014(3):1-3.
[7]陈静静,蒋高明.紧密纺纯棉经编产品的编织工艺探讨[J].针织工业,2005(8):1-3,68.CHEN Jingjing,JIANG Gaoming.Technology discussion of compact spinning cotton warp knitting products[J].Knitting Industries,2005(8):1-3,68.
[8]陈红霞,蒋高明.经编机经纱动态张力数字化测试[J].针织工业,2004(6):35-38.CHEN Hongxia,JIANG Gaoming.Warp knitting machine dynamic tension of warp digital test[J].Knitting Industries,2004(6):35-38.
[9]程隆棣,周志华.紧密纺纱技术与毛羽问题[J].棉纺织技术,2003,31(4):18-20.CHENG Longdi,ZHOU Zhihua.Technology of compact spinning and hairness problem[J].Cotton Textile Technology,2003,31(4):18-20.
[10]朱新卯,刘云霞.氨棉经编内衣面料的开发[J].针织工业,2007(1):23-25.ZHU Xinmao,LIU Yunxia.The development of spandex-cotton warp knitted underwear fabrics[J].Knitting Industries,2007(1):23-25.
[11]王英武,郭双星.1452型整经机断纱自停控制电路的改进[J].棉纺织技术,2004,32(11):32.WANG Yingwu,GUO Shuangxing.The improvement of control circuit of yarn breaking automatic stop device on type 1452 warping machine[J].Cotton Textile Technology,2004,32(11):32.