民族服饰袖裆结构类型和文化探析
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摘要
袖裆结构多出现于现代服装结构中,在民族服饰中的研究甚少。文章采用标本研究、比较研究的方法,从服装结构角度对民族服饰的袖裆结构进行分析。通过对博物馆馆藏民族服饰实物标本的数据采集、整理、结构图测绘,发现民族服饰袖裆结构存在"袖裆开口"到"独立插片"再到"衣身或袖身相融"三种不同形态类型。民族地区的地理环境和民族服装结构的变化衍生袖裆结构类型的多样性。少数民族纺织技术在布幅宽度上的相对稳定,是民族服饰袖裆结构不同形态保存至今的重要因素。多样性的民族服饰袖裆结构体现着中华民族的"敬物尚俭"思想。
The sleeve crotch structure often appears in the modern clothing structure, but the research in the national dress is very less. In this paper, the methods of specimen research and comparative study were used to analyze the crotch structure of national costume from the angle of garment structure. By collecting, collating and mapping the samples of ethnic clothing collected in the museum, it is found that there are three kinds of different forms in the crotch structure of national costume, i.e. "crotch opening", "independent insertion" and "body or sleeve body fusion". The diversity of sleeve crotch structure derived from the variation of geographical environment and ethnic clothing structure in minority areas. The relative stability of textile technology of ethnic minorities in the width of cloth is an important factor for the preservation of the crotch structure of ethnic costume. The diversity of the crotch structure of national costume reflects the Chinese nation's thought of "respecting things and saving things".
The sleeve crotch structure often appears in the modern clothing structure, but the research in the national dress is very less. In this paper, the methods of specimen research and comparative study were used to analyze the crotch structure of national costume from the angle of garment structure. By collecting, collating and mapping the samples of ethnic clothing collected in the museum, it is found that there are three kinds of different forms in the crotch structure of national costume, i.e. "crotch opening", "independent insertion" and "body or sleeve body fusion". The diversity of sleeve crotch structure derived from the variation of geographical environment and ethnic clothing structure in minority areas. The relative stability of textile technology of ethnic minorities in the width of cloth is an important factor for the preservation of the crotch structure of ethnic costume. The diversity of the crotch structure of national costume reflects the Chinese nation's thought of "respecting things and saving things".
引文
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[10]陈果, 刘瑞璞. 藏袍腋下插角结构与先秦袍服小腰[J]. 纺织学报, 2017,38(8): 129-130.CHEN Guo, LIU Ruipu. Structures of outspread inserted pieces in Tibetan robes and gusset in Pre-Qin robes [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2017,38(8): 129-130.
[11]刘瑞璞, 陈洁静. 中华民族服饰图考(汉族编)[M]. 北京: 中国纺织出版社, 2013: 4.LIU Ruipu, CHEN Jiejing. Structural Textual Research of Chinese Ethnic Costume (Han) [M]. Beijing: China Textile and Apparel Press, 2013: 4.
[12]容观瓊. 关于结构功能分析:文化人类学方法论研究之六[J].广西民族学院学报(哲学社会科学版),1999(3): 14-16.RONG Guanqiong. Structural and functional analysis: a study of the methodology of cultural anthropology [J]. Journal of Guangxi University for Nationalities (Philosophy and Social Science Edition), 1999(3): 14-16.
[13]王祖望. 马林诺夫斯基的生平和学说[J]. 国外社会科学, 1980(6): 58-60.WANG Zuwang. Life and theory with Bronislaw Malinowski [J]. Social Sciences Abroad, 1980(6): 58-60.
[14]邓启耀. 中国传统刺绣工艺的多重文化遗产价值[J].重庆三峡学院学报, 2018,34(1): 47.DENG Qiyao. The multi-cultural heritage value of Chinese traditional embroidery craftsmanship [J]. Journal of Chongqing Three Gorges University, 2018,34(1): 47.
[15]张之恒. 中国考古学通论[M]. 南京: 南京大学出版社,1991(12): 156-157, 162.ZHANG Zhiheng. A General Discussion on Chinese Archaeology [M]. Nanjing: Nanjing University Press, 1991(12): 156-157, 162.
[2]刘瑞璞, 何鑫. 中华民族服饰结构图考(少数民族编)[M]. 北京: 中国纺织出版社,2013: 32, 54.LIU Ruipu, HE Xin. Structural Textual Research of Chinese Ethnic Costume (Minority)[M].Beijing: China Textile and Apparel Press, 2013:32,54.
[3]孙彦. 小腰考[J]. 考古, 2009(4): 58.SUN Yan. Textual criticism of XIAO YAO [J]. Archaeology, 2009(4): 58.
[4]沈从文.中国古代服饰研究[M]. 上海: 上海书店出版社, 2015: 104-105.SHEN Congwen. The Study of Ancient Chinese Dress [M]. Shanghai: Shanghai Bookstore Publishing House, 2015: 104-105.
[5]湖北省荆州地区博物馆. 江陵马山一号楚墓[M]. 北京: 文物出版社, 1985: 1, 95, 101, 19-20.Hubei Jingzhou Area Museum. The No.1 Chu Tomb at Jiangling Mashan [M]. Beijing: Cultural Relics Publishing House, 1985: 1, 95, 101, 19-20.
[6]彭浩. 楚人的纺织与服饰[M]. 武汉: 湖北教育出版社, 1996: 150-154.PENG Hao. Textile and Clothing of Chu People [M]. Wuhan: Hubei Education Press House, 1996: 150-154.
[7]贾玺增, 李当岐. 江陵马山一号楚墓出土上下连属式袍服研究[J]. 装饰, 2011(3): 78.JIA Xizeng, LI Dangqi. Research on a robe with upper and lower unearthed from the No.1 Chu Tomb at Jiangling Mashan [J].ZHUANGSHI, 2011(3): 78.
[8]刘瑞璞, 邵新艳, 马玲, 等. 古典华服结构研究: 清末民初典型袍服结构考据[M]. 北京: 光明日报出版社, 2009: 10-15.LIU Ruipu, SHAO Xinyan, MA Ling, et al. Classical Well-Dressed Structure Research: Qing Dynasty Structure Typical Robes Textual Research [M]. Beijing: Guangming Daily Press, 2009: 10-15.
[9]杨光明. 隆林苗族[M]. 南宁: 广西民族出版社, 2013: 36.YANG Guangming, Longlin Miao[M]. Nanning: Guangxi National Publishing House, 2013: 36.
[10]陈果, 刘瑞璞. 藏袍腋下插角结构与先秦袍服小腰[J]. 纺织学报, 2017,38(8): 129-130.CHEN Guo, LIU Ruipu. Structures of outspread inserted pieces in Tibetan robes and gusset in Pre-Qin robes [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2017,38(8): 129-130.
[11]刘瑞璞, 陈洁静. 中华民族服饰图考(汉族编)[M]. 北京: 中国纺织出版社, 2013: 4.LIU Ruipu, CHEN Jiejing. Structural Textual Research of Chinese Ethnic Costume (Han) [M]. Beijing: China Textile and Apparel Press, 2013: 4.
[12]容观瓊. 关于结构功能分析:文化人类学方法论研究之六[J].广西民族学院学报(哲学社会科学版),1999(3): 14-16.RONG Guanqiong. Structural and functional analysis: a study of the methodology of cultural anthropology [J]. Journal of Guangxi University for Nationalities (Philosophy and Social Science Edition), 1999(3): 14-16.
[13]王祖望. 马林诺夫斯基的生平和学说[J]. 国外社会科学, 1980(6): 58-60.WANG Zuwang. Life and theory with Bronislaw Malinowski [J]. Social Sciences Abroad, 1980(6): 58-60.
[14]邓启耀. 中国传统刺绣工艺的多重文化遗产价值[J].重庆三峡学院学报, 2018,34(1): 47.DENG Qiyao. The multi-cultural heritage value of Chinese traditional embroidery craftsmanship [J]. Journal of Chongqing Three Gorges University, 2018,34(1): 47.
[15]张之恒. 中国考古学通论[M]. 南京: 南京大学出版社,1991(12): 156-157, 162.ZHANG Zhiheng. A General Discussion on Chinese Archaeology [M]. Nanjing: Nanjing University Press, 1991(12): 156-157, 162.