防缩免烫羊绒衬衣面料的开发
|
摘要
制备14.6 tex羊绒/亚麻/形状记忆聚酯纤维混纺纱,将其与涤纶网络丝或自身进行交织,其后,在后处理环节对其进行热定形处理和非热定形处理,得到2种类型的羊绒混纺织物。并对2种类型织物的折皱回复角、缩水率及织物风格进行了表征。经测试发现,经过热定形处理的织物在缩水率方面有显著改善,尤其是纬二重织物,其经纬向的缩水率分别为0.01%及0.20%;经过热定形处理的纬二重织物的折皱回复角较大,达到293°;经织物风格测试发现,纬二重织物折皱回复率较大;贡缎织物更加挺括、柔软、平滑。
The 14.6 tex cashmere/linen/memory polyester fiber blended yarn was prepared and interwoven with the polyester network silk or itself. After that, the 2 types of cashmere blended fabric were obtained by heat setting and non-thermal setting in the post processing link. The crease recovery angle, shrinkage rate and fabric style of the two types of fabrics were also characterized. It was found that the shrinkage of the fabric treated by thermal shape was improved significantly, especially the weft double fabric, the shrinkage of the warp and weft was 0.01% and 0.2%, the wrinkle recovery angle of the weft double fabric was 293 degree, and the weft double fabric was wrinkled back well after the fabric style test. The satin fabric is more stiff, soft and smooth.
The 14.6 tex cashmere/linen/memory polyester fiber blended yarn was prepared and interwoven with the polyester network silk or itself. After that, the 2 types of cashmere blended fabric were obtained by heat setting and non-thermal setting in the post processing link. The crease recovery angle, shrinkage rate and fabric style of the two types of fabrics were also characterized. It was found that the shrinkage of the fabric treated by thermal shape was improved significantly, especially the weft double fabric, the shrinkage of the warp and weft was 0.01% and 0.2%, the wrinkle recovery angle of the weft double fabric was 293 degree, and the weft double fabric was wrinkled back well after the fabric style test. The satin fabric is more stiff, soft and smooth.
引文
[1] 马海, 吴桂芳, 李志东, 等. 山羊绒纤维鉴别技术的现状与发展趋势[J]. 毛纺科技, 2017, 45(3): 5-9.
[2] 王可, 马倩, 宁方刚. 羊毛的臭氧防毡缩机理研究[J]. 山东纺织科技, 2011, 52(4): 1-4.
[3] 杨俊文. 精纺轻薄型纯毛织物抗皱免烫整理研究[D]. 西安:西安工程大学, 2005.
[4] 杨俊文, 贺江平, 危想平. 有机硅树脂在精纺纯毛织物防缩整理中的应用[J]. 上海纺织科技, 2005, 32(2): 9-11.
[5] 汪邦海, 朱若英. 冷冻处理对羊毛织物改性的研究[J]. 毛纺科技, 2013, 41(7): 44-48.
[6] 宁方刚. 羊毛的臭氧防毡缩处理效果及机理表征[D]. 上海:东华大学, 2010.
[7] 李小美. 亚麻/绢丝混纺纱及其织物的性能研究[J]. 纺织导报, 2013(6): 114-115.
[8] 田俊莹. 多种纤维混纺织物的研究:亚麻落麻/涤纶混纺织物的开发与研究[D]. 天津:天津工业大学, 2001.
[9] 周洪英. 一种新型形状记忆功能面料问世[J]. 功能材料信息, 2007(1): 63-63.
[10] 硝烟. 褶皱的新视角:记忆面料[J]. 江苏纺织(A版), 2007(8): 24-26.
[11] 朱强. 亚麻及亚麻/棉混纺针织产品的前处理工艺与性能研究[D]. 上海:东华大学, 2006.
[12] 赵海龙. 半细羊毛/细旦涤纶纤维混纺精纺薄花呢开发研究[D]. 西安:西安工程大学, 2006.
[13] 陈莉, 张明立. 亚麻/棉转杯纺混纺纱的生产实践[J]. 毛纺科技, 2009, 37(4): 30-32.
[2] 王可, 马倩, 宁方刚. 羊毛的臭氧防毡缩机理研究[J]. 山东纺织科技, 2011, 52(4): 1-4.
[3] 杨俊文. 精纺轻薄型纯毛织物抗皱免烫整理研究[D]. 西安:西安工程大学, 2005.
[4] 杨俊文, 贺江平, 危想平. 有机硅树脂在精纺纯毛织物防缩整理中的应用[J]. 上海纺织科技, 2005, 32(2): 9-11.
[5] 汪邦海, 朱若英. 冷冻处理对羊毛织物改性的研究[J]. 毛纺科技, 2013, 41(7): 44-48.
[6] 宁方刚. 羊毛的臭氧防毡缩处理效果及机理表征[D]. 上海:东华大学, 2010.
[7] 李小美. 亚麻/绢丝混纺纱及其织物的性能研究[J]. 纺织导报, 2013(6): 114-115.
[8] 田俊莹. 多种纤维混纺织物的研究:亚麻落麻/涤纶混纺织物的开发与研究[D]. 天津:天津工业大学, 2001.
[9] 周洪英. 一种新型形状记忆功能面料问世[J]. 功能材料信息, 2007(1): 63-63.
[10] 硝烟. 褶皱的新视角:记忆面料[J]. 江苏纺织(A版), 2007(8): 24-26.
[11] 朱强. 亚麻及亚麻/棉混纺针织产品的前处理工艺与性能研究[D]. 上海:东华大学, 2006.
[12] 赵海龙. 半细羊毛/细旦涤纶纤维混纺精纺薄花呢开发研究[D]. 西安:西安工程大学, 2006.
[13] 陈莉, 张明立. 亚麻/棉转杯纺混纺纱的生产实践[J]. 毛纺科技, 2009, 37(4): 30-32.