女西装特征部位松量分布规则
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摘要
为通过探究人体与服装间的距离松量分布规律构建成衣样板生成规则,首先使用三维扫描仪对未穿着服装的人台进行扫描,获得人台基本数据。然后扫描穿着7件相同款式不同尺码的西装,获得7件服装点云数据。再将人台数据和服装数据进行叠加展示服装间的距离松量分布规律,并通过测量人台与服装间10个特征部位的截面环建立距离松量计算模型,进行给定松量和距离的松量转换。最后用三维曲线拟合方式以胸围曲线为例进行了样板增量的转化。结果表明:各部位距离松量回归方程的R~2值均大于0.9,验证了该预测模型的精确度;通过案例验证发现成衣胸围与人体净胸围之间存在-0.42 cm的误差,且在国内女装制作胸围标准误差范围内。
In order to realize the automatic generation of individualized pattern, the distribution rules of ease allowance between human body and garments were analyzed to establish the pattern generation rules. First the undressed standard mannequin was scanned by a 3-D body scanner to obtain the basic point-cloud data of the mannequin, and then seven suits with the same style and different ease allowance were scanned to obtain the point-cloud data of the suits. The distribution rules of the distance ease were demonstrated by adding the data of the suits and mannequin, and the mannequin-suit curves of ten characteristic positions were measured to build the calculative models between the distance ease and the ease allowance to realize the conversion between the ease allowance and the distance ease. The R~2 values of the regression models of the distance ease at all positions are all more than 0.9, verifying the accuracy of the models. Finally, the distance ease was converted into the pattern increments through curve simulation by taking the bust position as an example, and the example shows that the difference between the bust circumference of the garment and the body bust girth is-0.42 cm, which conforms to the standard error of the bust circumference of women′s suits in China.
In order to realize the automatic generation of individualized pattern, the distribution rules of ease allowance between human body and garments were analyzed to establish the pattern generation rules. First the undressed standard mannequin was scanned by a 3-D body scanner to obtain the basic point-cloud data of the mannequin, and then seven suits with the same style and different ease allowance were scanned to obtain the point-cloud data of the suits. The distribution rules of the distance ease were demonstrated by adding the data of the suits and mannequin, and the mannequin-suit curves of ten characteristic positions were measured to build the calculative models between the distance ease and the ease allowance to realize the conversion between the ease allowance and the distance ease. The R~2 values of the regression models of the distance ease at all positions are all more than 0.9, verifying the accuracy of the models. Finally, the distance ease was converted into the pattern increments through curve simulation by taking the bust position as an example, and the example shows that the difference between the bust circumference of the garment and the body bust girth is-0.42 cm, which conforms to the standard error of the bust circumference of women′s suits in China.
引文
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[11] LIN Y,XIONG H W,LUO S M,et al.The B-spline curve passing control points [J].Journal of Southern Yangtze University (Natural Science Edition),2003,2(6):553-556.
[2] SONG H K,ASHDOWN S P.Development of automated custom-made pants driven by body shape [J].Clothing and Textiles Research Journal,2012,30:315-329.
[3] 张鸿志,刘文玲.服装CAD度身打板方法的研究[J].东华大学学报(自然科学版),2004,30(1):93-96.ZHANG Hongzhi,LIU Wenling.Research of computer aided made to measure pattern design method[J].Journal of Donghua University (Natural Science Edition),2004,30(1):93-96.
[4] CHEN Y,ZENG X,HAPPIETTE M,et al.Optimisation of garment design using fuzzy logic and sensory evaluation techniques [J].Engineering Applications of Artificial Intelligence,2009,22(2):272-282.
[5] PETROVA A,ASHDOWN S P.Three-dimensional body scan data analysis:body size and shape dependence of ease values for pants′ fit[J].Clothing and Textiles Research Journal,2008,26(3):227-252.
[6] HIROKAWA T,MIYOSHI M.Relations between drafting factors of jacket pattern and wearing feeling of clothing:part 2:ease quantity and wearing feeling of clothing [J].Journal of the Japan Research Association for Textile End-uses,1997,38(4):218-226.
[7] 张爱萍,王云仪,姚仪.服装胸围截面上距离松量的分配关系[J].纺织学报,2012,33(6):76-80.ZHANG Aiping,WANG Yunyi,YAO Yi.Study on relationships between garment′s distance ease distribution at bust section [J].Journal of Textile Research,2012,33(6):76-80.
[8] 周燕芬,秦海涵.服装放松量对人体与服装空间关系的影响研究[J].中原工学院学报,2011,22(6):66-72.ZHOU Yanfen,QIN Haihan.The influence of ease allowance on spatial relationship between body and garment [J].Journal of Zhongyuan University of Technology,2011,22(6):66-72.
[9] 顾冰菲.个体化三维女上体人台构建及服装样板自动生成研究[D].苏州:苏州大学,2016:6.GU Bingfei.3D Virtual modeling of female upper body and automatic pattern generation[D].Suzhou:Soochow University,2016:6.
[10] MIYOSHI M,HIROKAWA T.Study on the method of measuring a vacant space distance in a worn jacket for clothing pattern design:using the three-dimensional measuring system [J].Journal of the Japan Research Association for Textile End-uses,2001,42(4):233-242.
[11] LIN Y,XIONG H W,LUO S M,et al.The B-spline curve passing control points [J].Journal of Southern Yangtze University (Natural Science Edition),2003,2(6):553-556.