印尼爪哇岛南岸波浪双峰谱特征分析
|
摘要
印度洋北岸的波浪来自于几千公里以外的风浪传播变化,波向集中、周期长、强度大。实测波浪进行统计时波周期经常呈现混合浪的特征,季节性变化比较大,雨季周期长、旱季周期短。根据2010年2月～2011年12月在印尼爪哇岛南岸中部的实测波浪资料,对波浪谱进行分析研究。通过对各月份内逐日的波浪过程进行能量谱分析,得出印尼面向印度洋的爪哇岛南岸存在2种波浪结合的双峰谱特征,雨季低频涌浪能量大,旱季低频涌浪和高频波浪能量相当。
The wave of the north shore of the Indian Ocean is generated by the wind wave propagation from thousands of miles away,with the characteristics of concentrated wind direction,long wave period and high intensity. When the wave was measured,the period characteristic of mixed wave often occurred,including large seasonal variation,long rainy season period and short dry season period. According to the measured wave data during February 2010 to December 2011 in the middle of southern bank of the Indonesian island of Java,the wave spectrum was analyzed. On the daily analysis of wave energy spectrum in each month,the spectrum characteristic was obtained that 2 kinds of wave were combined into double-peaked wave at the south bank of the island of Java.The low frequency surge takes more energy in the rainy season,while the low frequency surge and high frequency wave take almost equal amount of energy.
The wave of the north shore of the Indian Ocean is generated by the wind wave propagation from thousands of miles away,with the characteristics of concentrated wind direction,long wave period and high intensity. When the wave was measured,the period characteristic of mixed wave often occurred,including large seasonal variation,long rainy season period and short dry season period. According to the measured wave data during February 2010 to December 2011 in the middle of southern bank of the Indonesian island of Java,the wave spectrum was analyzed. On the daily analysis of wave energy spectrum in each month,the spectrum characteristic was obtained that 2 kinds of wave were combined into double-peaked wave at the south bank of the island of Java.The low frequency surge takes more energy in the rainy season,while the low frequency surge and high frequency wave take almost equal amount of energy.
引文
[1]隋世峰.规则海浪谱和海浪谱的叠加分析方法[J].热带海洋,1984,3(3):1-9.SUI S F.The regular wave spectrum and an analytical method of supreposition of wave spectra[J].Tropic Oceanology,1984,3(3):1-9.
[2]黄培基,胡泽建.胶州湾双峰海浪频谱的表示[J].海洋学报,1988,10(5):531-537.
[3]陈雪英,黄培基,胡泽建.胶州湾双峰谱型波浪的统计特征[J].黄渤海海洋,1994,12(2):1-8.CHEN X Y,HUANG P J,HU Z J.The Statistical Characteristics of Sea Waves with Double-peaked Spectra in Jiaozhou Bay[J].Journal of Oceanography of Huanghai Bohai Seas,1994,12(2):1-8.
[4]管长龙,张大错,关世义.双峰海浪频谱的一种表示[J].海洋与湖沼,1996,27(2):151-156.
[5]陈雪英,胡泽建.双峰谱型海浪波高与周期的联合分布[J].黄渤海海洋,1997,15(4):8-12.CHEN X Y,HU Z J.Joint Distribution of Wave Heights and Periods of Sea Waves With Double-Peaked Spectra[J].Journal of Oceanograpgy of Huanghai&Bohai Seas,1997,15(4):8-12.
[6]赵栋梁,臧小红.海浪双峰方向分布的一种物理解释[J].海洋与湖沼,2000,31(1):60-64.ZHAO D L,ZANG X H.Physical Explanation of Bimodal Directional Distribution of Ocean Waves[J].Oceanologia Et Limnologia Sinica,2000,31(1):60-64.
[7]潘玉萍,葛苏放,沙文钰,等.由模拟波面分析双峰谱型海浪的统计特征[J].海洋学报,2009,31(4):13-20.PAN Y P,GE S F,SHA W Y,et al.An analysis on the statistical characteristic of sea waves with double-peaked spectrum[J].Acta Oceanologica Sinica,2009,31(4):13-20.
[8]梅勇,宋帅,周林.北印度洋-南海海域海浪场、风场的年际变化特征分析[J].海洋预报,2010,27(5):27-33.MEI Y,SONG S,ZHOU L.Annual variation characteristics of wave fields and wind fields over the North Indian Ocean and South China Sea[J].Marine Forecasts,2010,27(5):27-33.
[9]尹兵,于中华.南海-印度洋风、浪、海温等海洋水文要素统计分析[J].科技信息,2013,2(1):408-409.
[10]张弦,刘金芳,张学宏,等.南印度洋海浪场时空特征分析[J].海洋通报,2003,22(2):25-31.ZHANG X,LIU J F,ZHANG X H,et al.Annual Variation Analysis of Sea Wave Field in the South Indian Ocean[J].Marine Science Bulletin,2003,22(2):25-31.
[11]刘金芳,梁玉清,江伟,等.北太平洋风场和海浪场特点分析[J].海洋通报,2002,21(3):65-69.
[12]郑崇伟,林刚,孙岩,等.近45年太平洋海浪特征分析[J].热带海洋学报,2012,31(6):6-12.ZHENG C W,LIN G,SUN Y,et al.Analysis of wave characteristics in the Pacific Ocean during the last 45 years[J].Journal of Tropical Oceanography,2012,31(6):6-12.
[13]封有德,冯先导.以色列Ashdod港水文波浪特性及防波堤临时防护研究[J].水道港口,2017,38(4):357-360.FENG Y D,FENG X D.Hydrologic characteristics of Israel Ashdod Port and temporary protection of breakwater[J].Journal of Waterway and Harbor,2017,38(4):357-360.
[14]周加杰,曹兵,李汉渤.印尼爪哇岛面临印度洋海域波浪特性及防波堤施工技术分析[J].中国港湾建设,2014(4):18-20.ZHOU J J,CAO B,LI H B.Analysis of wave characteristics facing Indian Ocean sea area and breakwater construction technical for Java inland,Indonesia[J].China Harbour Engineering,2014(4):18-20.
[2]黄培基,胡泽建.胶州湾双峰海浪频谱的表示[J].海洋学报,1988,10(5):531-537.
[3]陈雪英,黄培基,胡泽建.胶州湾双峰谱型波浪的统计特征[J].黄渤海海洋,1994,12(2):1-8.CHEN X Y,HUANG P J,HU Z J.The Statistical Characteristics of Sea Waves with Double-peaked Spectra in Jiaozhou Bay[J].Journal of Oceanography of Huanghai Bohai Seas,1994,12(2):1-8.
[4]管长龙,张大错,关世义.双峰海浪频谱的一种表示[J].海洋与湖沼,1996,27(2):151-156.
[5]陈雪英,胡泽建.双峰谱型海浪波高与周期的联合分布[J].黄渤海海洋,1997,15(4):8-12.CHEN X Y,HU Z J.Joint Distribution of Wave Heights and Periods of Sea Waves With Double-Peaked Spectra[J].Journal of Oceanograpgy of Huanghai&Bohai Seas,1997,15(4):8-12.
[6]赵栋梁,臧小红.海浪双峰方向分布的一种物理解释[J].海洋与湖沼,2000,31(1):60-64.ZHAO D L,ZANG X H.Physical Explanation of Bimodal Directional Distribution of Ocean Waves[J].Oceanologia Et Limnologia Sinica,2000,31(1):60-64.
[7]潘玉萍,葛苏放,沙文钰,等.由模拟波面分析双峰谱型海浪的统计特征[J].海洋学报,2009,31(4):13-20.PAN Y P,GE S F,SHA W Y,et al.An analysis on the statistical characteristic of sea waves with double-peaked spectrum[J].Acta Oceanologica Sinica,2009,31(4):13-20.
[8]梅勇,宋帅,周林.北印度洋-南海海域海浪场、风场的年际变化特征分析[J].海洋预报,2010,27(5):27-33.MEI Y,SONG S,ZHOU L.Annual variation characteristics of wave fields and wind fields over the North Indian Ocean and South China Sea[J].Marine Forecasts,2010,27(5):27-33.
[9]尹兵,于中华.南海-印度洋风、浪、海温等海洋水文要素统计分析[J].科技信息,2013,2(1):408-409.
[10]张弦,刘金芳,张学宏,等.南印度洋海浪场时空特征分析[J].海洋通报,2003,22(2):25-31.ZHANG X,LIU J F,ZHANG X H,et al.Annual Variation Analysis of Sea Wave Field in the South Indian Ocean[J].Marine Science Bulletin,2003,22(2):25-31.
[11]刘金芳,梁玉清,江伟,等.北太平洋风场和海浪场特点分析[J].海洋通报,2002,21(3):65-69.
[12]郑崇伟,林刚,孙岩,等.近45年太平洋海浪特征分析[J].热带海洋学报,2012,31(6):6-12.ZHENG C W,LIN G,SUN Y,et al.Analysis of wave characteristics in the Pacific Ocean during the last 45 years[J].Journal of Tropical Oceanography,2012,31(6):6-12.
[13]封有德,冯先导.以色列Ashdod港水文波浪特性及防波堤临时防护研究[J].水道港口,2017,38(4):357-360.FENG Y D,FENG X D.Hydrologic characteristics of Israel Ashdod Port and temporary protection of breakwater[J].Journal of Waterway and Harbor,2017,38(4):357-360.
[14]周加杰,曹兵,李汉渤.印尼爪哇岛面临印度洋海域波浪特性及防波堤施工技术分析[J].中国港湾建设,2014(4):18-20.ZHOU J J,CAO B,LI H B.Analysis of wave characteristics facing Indian Ocean sea area and breakwater construction technical for Java inland,Indonesia[J].China Harbour Engineering,2014(4):18-20.