珠宝首饰在质量监督领域的现状分析——以新国标GB/T33541-2017为例
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  • 英文篇名:Analysis of Current Situation of Gem and Jewelry in Quality Supervision and Inspection
  • 作者:王志麟
  • 英文作者:WANG Zhilin;Henan Province Gold and Precious Metal Testing Centre;
  • 关键词:珠宝首饰 ; 质量监督 ; 国家标准 ; 珠宝企业 ; 珠宝质检机构
  • 英文关键词:jewelry;;quality supervision;;national standard;;jewelry company;;gem bab
  • 中文刊名:BSHB
  • 英文刊名:Journal of Gems & Gemmology
  • 机构:河南省黄金贵金属产品质量监督检验中心;
  • 出版日期:2017-09-15
  • 出版单位:宝石和宝石学杂志
  • 年:2017
  • 期:v.19
  • 语种:中文;
  • 页:BSHB2017S1012
  • 页数:5
  • CN:S1
  • ISSN:42-1438/TS
  • 分类号:52-56
摘要
通过解读2017年10月即将实施的国家标准《珠宝玉石及贵金属产品抽样检验合格判定准则》(GB/T33541-2017),介绍了目前市场上常见珠宝产品主要存在的质量问题,指出了珠宝企业和珠宝质检机构应当采取的相应对策。珠宝首饰的质量监督存在着无产品标准、无强制标准、无国家级抽查实施规范等问题,新国标的出台良好地解决了绝大多数痛点。新国标的判定原则是根据珠宝及贵金属产品的重要特性和不符合程度,将珠宝首饰的合格情况明确定义为三大类,即:A类不合格、B类不合格、C类不合格。其中贵金属材料及含量、有害元素、珠宝玉石定名为重要质量特性(Ⅰ类);珠宝玉石品质等级、贵金属质量、珠宝玉石质量为较重要质量特性(Ⅱ类);外观质量、标识为次要质量特性(Ⅲ类)。通常地,凡是出现Ⅰ类特性中不符合的,一律判为A类不合格,即严重不合格;在Ⅱ类特性中出现不符合的,判为B类不合格,有严重不符合或多项不符合的,将升至A类不合格。具体地,如黄金首饰纯度不足,实测金含量(900‰)小于标称值(990‰),判为A类不合格;将"合成碳硅石"定名为"钻石",判为A类不合格。如标识中仅缺了一项"厂家名称",可判为C类不合格,当出现"未注明宝石材质""未注明贵金属材料及纯度""商业名称含混不清"等严重不符合的情况时,可从C类不合格升级判定为B类不合格。我国珠宝市场上质量问题主要体现在珠宝玉石名称命名不规范、贵金属纯度不足、贵金属印记不全、标签标识缺项等,其中珠宝玉石名称和标签、印记不合格较为普遍。珠宝企业需要对标签不合格引起重视,可以考虑成立有关质量部门,进行内部质量培训,聘请相关珠宝质量专家,或与珠宝质检机构签订技术服务协议等。珠宝质检机构需要重视监督抽查程序不规范、检验方法不准确、样品保管不妥当及交接手续不全等方面的问题,如在使用X射线荧光法时受表面镀层影响,造成了结果的误判。同时提出了"互联网+质检"模式,为未来质量监督在珠宝电商领域应用提供了一些思路。
        This article explains the new national standards:Qualified Judgement Criteria of Sampling Inspection for Gems and Precious Metal Products(GB/T 33541-2017),which is going to be valid in October 2017.And the criteria introduces the existing quality problems of common gem products in the market,indicating the specific details that gem companies need to rectify.Meanwhile,the article introduces the main disqualified factors in supervision and inspection of gemstones,indicating possible risks and suggested solutions for gem lab when they are working at the supervision and inspection task.The principals of new national standards are based on main features and inconformity degree of gems and precious metal grading,which are classified into three degrees as disqualification grade A,disqualification grade B,disqualification grade C.The most severe quality problems mainly are incorrect nomenclature of gemstones,harmful elements and lack fineness of precious metal(category I);gems' quality grading and weight of precious metal are also important characters(categoryⅡ);shortage of precious metal stamp and label of jewelry are less important quality problems(categoryⅢ).Commonly,if one is out of accord with category I,it will be judged as disqualification grade A,i.e.fairly disqualification.If one is out of accord with category Ⅱ,it will be judged as disqualification grade B.If there exists severe disqualifications or it appears disqualifications in several categories of grade B,it will be regarded as grade A.Specifically,precious metal lack fineness,for example,whose measured value(900‰)is less than metal stamp value(990‰),or a synthetic moissanite,who is named diamond,are regarded as disqualification grade A.If the label only lack the name of manufacturers,this product will be regarded as disqualification grade C.If there happens some severe problems,like no label about gems' material description,no metal material and fineness description,or confusing nomenclature,these products will be grading from grade C to grade B.The main problems showed in Chinese market are incorrect nomenclature of gemstones,lack fineness of precious metal,shortage of precious metal stamp and label of jewelry.Especially,it is pretty common in the incorrect nomenclature of gemstones,shortage of precious metal stamp and label of jewelry.Jewelry company needs to focus on label disqualification.It is considerable to establish quality supervision department,to training stuff and invited some experts in jewelry quality inspection,or cooperate with gem lab,which need to supervise sampling inspection,testing methods,sample keeping and handing over procedure.For instance,sometimes misjudgment happens because the coating layer on samples.Moreover,Internet adds quality testing give ways in future jewelry e-commerce quality supervision area.
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