台湾布农族服装特征研究
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摘要
借鉴民族服饰元素,梳理台湾布农族传统服装的艺术特征及文化内涵。以台湾少数民族布农族服装形制为研究对象,从自然环境、气候因素、汉服元素、保守思想及其他民族影响等5个方面分析服装形制形成的影响因素,阐述布农族服装的实用功能、成年标志、审美意识、崇拜信仰、崇尚自然、部落认同等文化内涵。并结合布农族服饰典型图片,运用归纳分析法,得出布农族男女服装的形制特征。
The Taiwan Bunun traditional clothing art characteristics and cultural connotations are scrutinized to promote the inheritance and development of minority costume culture, with reference to the elements of national costume. Taking the clothing form of Bunun ethnic minorities in Taiwan as the research object, this paper conducts a research based on the theoretical research methods of folk culture. Using the inductive analysis method and the typical pictures of Bunun costumes, the shape characteristics of Bunun men′s and women′s clothing are obtained. The influencing factors of garment shape formation are analyzed from five aspects:natural environment, climate, Han clothing element,conservative thought and other national influence. This paper expounds the practical functions, adult signs, aesthetic consciousness, worship beliefs, worship of nature, tribal identity and other cultural connotations of Bunun clothing.
The Taiwan Bunun traditional clothing art characteristics and cultural connotations are scrutinized to promote the inheritance and development of minority costume culture, with reference to the elements of national costume. Taking the clothing form of Bunun ethnic minorities in Taiwan as the research object, this paper conducts a research based on the theoretical research methods of folk culture. Using the inductive analysis method and the typical pictures of Bunun costumes, the shape characteristics of Bunun men′s and women′s clothing are obtained. The influencing factors of garment shape formation are analyzed from five aspects:natural environment, climate, Han clothing element,conservative thought and other national influence. This paper expounds the practical functions, adult signs, aesthetic consciousness, worship beliefs, worship of nature, tribal identity and other cultural connotations of Bunun clothing.
引文
[1] 李树义.台湾少数民族——布农[M].北京:台海出版社,2008:109-112.LI S Y.Taiwan′s ethnic minorities:Bunun[M].Beijing:Taihai Press,2008:109-112.(in Chinese)
[2] 杨梅.台湾少数民族概论[M].北京:民族出版社,2009:184-186.YANG M.Introduction to Taiwan ethnic minorities[M].Beijing:Minorities Press,2009:184-186.(in Chinese)
[3] 和立勇.闽台传统服饰习俗文化遗产资源调查[M].厦门:厦门大学出版社,2014:224-226.HE L Y.Investigation on cultural heritage resources of traditional clothing customs in Fujian and Taiwan[M].Xiamen:Xiamen University Press,2014:224-226.(in Chinese)
[4] 张羞月.台湾原住民服饰中的菱形纹样研究[D].苏州:苏州大学,2014:31-42.ZHANG X Y.Studies on the diamond pattern in Taiwanese Aboriginal costumes[D].Suzhou:Soochow University,2014:31-42.(in Chinese)
[5] 李莎莉.台湾原住民之衣饰文化[M].台北:南天书局,1998:163-186.LI S L.Taiwanese aboriginal garment culture[M].Taibei:Smc Publishing Inc,1998:163-186.(in Chinese)
[6] 童春发.高砂春秋-台湾原住民之文化艺术[M].台北:立虹出版社,1985:206-207.TONG C F.Gaosha spring and autumn:Taiwanese aboriginal culture and art[M].Taibei:Lihong Press,1985:206-207.(in Chinese)
[7] 远腾宽哉.台湾原住民写真照片[M].台北:博扬文化,2012:70-75.MINORI Hirokazu.Taiwanese aboriginal photo[M].Taipei:Boyang Culture,2012:70-75.(in Chinese)
[8] 罗麦瑞.织杼声起——台湾原住民服饰传承与创新图录[M].台北:行政院原住民委员会,2011:83-85.LUO M R.The Sound of weaving:Taiwan′s aboriginal costume inheritance and innovation map[M].Taibei:Executive Yuan Aboriginal Committee,2011:83-85.(in Chinese)
[9] 高业荣.台湾原住民的艺术[M].台北:东华书局,1997:76-78.GAO Y R.The art of Taiwanese aborigines[M].Taipei:Donghua Book Bureau,1997:76-78.(in Chinese)
[10] 施翠峰.台湾原住民身体装饰与服饰[M].台北:国立历史博物馆,2004:116-124.SHI C F.Taiwanese aboriginal body decoration and clothing[M].Taibei:National Museum of History,2004:116-124.(in Chinese)
[11] 何绵山.漫淡台湾原住民服饰形制及特点[J].甘肃民族研究,2005(3/4):106-112.HE M S.Diffuse Taiwan native costume shape and characteristics[J].Gansu National Research,2005(3/4):106-112.(in Chinese)
[12] 姜莉芳.台湾南岛语民族服饰沿革和形制初探[J].青海民族研究,2008(1):159-163.JIANG L F.The preliminary research on evolution and pattern of raiment of Taiwanese austronesian nationalities[J].Nationalities Research In Qinghai,2008(1):159-163.(in Chinese)
[13] 佐山融吉.临时台湾旧惯调查会第一部蕃族调查报告书[M].台北:南天书局,1996:105-108.SASHAN R J.The first fan-ethnic investigation report of the temporary Taiwanese old survey meeting[M].Taibei:Smc Publishing Inc,1996:105-108.(in Chinese)
[14] 古野清人.高砂族的祭仪生活[M].台北:南天书局,1996:156-158.FURUNO Kiyoto.The cult life of aborigines[M].Taipei:Smc Publishing Inc,1996:156-158.(in Chinese)
[15] 宫本延人.台湾的原住民族[M].台中:晨星出版社,1992:129-133.Miyamoto Nobuto.Taiwan′s indigenous peoples[M].Taizhong:Morningstar Press,1992,10:129-133.(in Chinese)
[16] 徐强.台湾排湾族服饰纹样的文化内涵解读[J].纺织学报,2016(12):111-116.XU Q.Interpretation of the Taiwan Paiwan tribe clothing patterns cultural connotation [J].Journal of Textile Research,2016(12):111-116.(in Chinese)
[17] 李然.台湾布农族研究综述[J].广西民族学院学报(哲学社会科学版),2006(S1):37-42.LI R.The research reviewed of Bunun[J].Journal of Guanxi University For Nationalities,2006(S1):37-42.(in Chinese)
[18] 徐强.台湾鲁凯族的服饰纹样[J].丝绸,2017(8):70-77.XU Q.Taiwanese Rukai costumes[J].Silk,2017(8):70-77.(in Chinese)
[19] 陈述巧.布农族制品服饰认同关系之研究[D].台北:成功大学艺术研究所,2005:16-34.CHEN S Q.Study on the relationship between clothes identity of Bunun products[D].Taibei:Cheng Kung University Institute of Arts,2005:16-34.(in Chinese)
[20] 徐强,刘洋.台湾排湾族头饰特征及文化内涵[J].民族学刊,2017,8(1):70-74.XU Q,LIU Y.A research of Taiwan Paiwan Tribe headwear artistic characteristics[J].Journal of Ethnology,2017,8(1):70-74.(in Chinese)
[2] 杨梅.台湾少数民族概论[M].北京:民族出版社,2009:184-186.YANG M.Introduction to Taiwan ethnic minorities[M].Beijing:Minorities Press,2009:184-186.(in Chinese)
[3] 和立勇.闽台传统服饰习俗文化遗产资源调查[M].厦门:厦门大学出版社,2014:224-226.HE L Y.Investigation on cultural heritage resources of traditional clothing customs in Fujian and Taiwan[M].Xiamen:Xiamen University Press,2014:224-226.(in Chinese)
[4] 张羞月.台湾原住民服饰中的菱形纹样研究[D].苏州:苏州大学,2014:31-42.ZHANG X Y.Studies on the diamond pattern in Taiwanese Aboriginal costumes[D].Suzhou:Soochow University,2014:31-42.(in Chinese)
[5] 李莎莉.台湾原住民之衣饰文化[M].台北:南天书局,1998:163-186.LI S L.Taiwanese aboriginal garment culture[M].Taibei:Smc Publishing Inc,1998:163-186.(in Chinese)
[6] 童春发.高砂春秋-台湾原住民之文化艺术[M].台北:立虹出版社,1985:206-207.TONG C F.Gaosha spring and autumn:Taiwanese aboriginal culture and art[M].Taibei:Lihong Press,1985:206-207.(in Chinese)
[7] 远腾宽哉.台湾原住民写真照片[M].台北:博扬文化,2012:70-75.MINORI Hirokazu.Taiwanese aboriginal photo[M].Taipei:Boyang Culture,2012:70-75.(in Chinese)
[8] 罗麦瑞.织杼声起——台湾原住民服饰传承与创新图录[M].台北:行政院原住民委员会,2011:83-85.LUO M R.The Sound of weaving:Taiwan′s aboriginal costume inheritance and innovation map[M].Taibei:Executive Yuan Aboriginal Committee,2011:83-85.(in Chinese)
[9] 高业荣.台湾原住民的艺术[M].台北:东华书局,1997:76-78.GAO Y R.The art of Taiwanese aborigines[M].Taipei:Donghua Book Bureau,1997:76-78.(in Chinese)
[10] 施翠峰.台湾原住民身体装饰与服饰[M].台北:国立历史博物馆,2004:116-124.SHI C F.Taiwanese aboriginal body decoration and clothing[M].Taibei:National Museum of History,2004:116-124.(in Chinese)
[11] 何绵山.漫淡台湾原住民服饰形制及特点[J].甘肃民族研究,2005(3/4):106-112.HE M S.Diffuse Taiwan native costume shape and characteristics[J].Gansu National Research,2005(3/4):106-112.(in Chinese)
[12] 姜莉芳.台湾南岛语民族服饰沿革和形制初探[J].青海民族研究,2008(1):159-163.JIANG L F.The preliminary research on evolution and pattern of raiment of Taiwanese austronesian nationalities[J].Nationalities Research In Qinghai,2008(1):159-163.(in Chinese)
[13] 佐山融吉.临时台湾旧惯调查会第一部蕃族调查报告书[M].台北:南天书局,1996:105-108.SASHAN R J.The first fan-ethnic investigation report of the temporary Taiwanese old survey meeting[M].Taibei:Smc Publishing Inc,1996:105-108.(in Chinese)
[14] 古野清人.高砂族的祭仪生活[M].台北:南天书局,1996:156-158.FURUNO Kiyoto.The cult life of aborigines[M].Taipei:Smc Publishing Inc,1996:156-158.(in Chinese)
[15] 宫本延人.台湾的原住民族[M].台中:晨星出版社,1992:129-133.Miyamoto Nobuto.Taiwan′s indigenous peoples[M].Taizhong:Morningstar Press,1992,10:129-133.(in Chinese)
[16] 徐强.台湾排湾族服饰纹样的文化内涵解读[J].纺织学报,2016(12):111-116.XU Q.Interpretation of the Taiwan Paiwan tribe clothing patterns cultural connotation [J].Journal of Textile Research,2016(12):111-116.(in Chinese)
[17] 李然.台湾布农族研究综述[J].广西民族学院学报(哲学社会科学版),2006(S1):37-42.LI R.The research reviewed of Bunun[J].Journal of Guanxi University For Nationalities,2006(S1):37-42.(in Chinese)
[18] 徐强.台湾鲁凯族的服饰纹样[J].丝绸,2017(8):70-77.XU Q.Taiwanese Rukai costumes[J].Silk,2017(8):70-77.(in Chinese)
[19] 陈述巧.布农族制品服饰认同关系之研究[D].台北:成功大学艺术研究所,2005:16-34.CHEN S Q.Study on the relationship between clothes identity of Bunun products[D].Taibei:Cheng Kung University Institute of Arts,2005:16-34.(in Chinese)
[20] 徐强,刘洋.台湾排湾族头饰特征及文化内涵[J].民族学刊,2017,8(1):70-74.XU Q,LIU Y.A research of Taiwan Paiwan Tribe headwear artistic characteristics[J].Journal of Ethnology,2017,8(1):70-74.(in Chinese)