化妆品功效评价(Ⅺ)——体外试验技术在发用化妆品功效评价中的应用
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摘要
综述了针对头发纤维的生物物理学仪器分析技术和针对头皮的体外生物学模型在发用化妆品功效评价中的应用,为发用化妆品进行功效评价时体外方法的选择提供了参考和指导,并对目前发用化妆品体外评价技术的现状和发展趋势进行了总结和展望。
The biophysical instrumental analysis techniques for hair fibers and the in vitro biological models for scalp were introduced as in vitro techniques applied in the efficacy evaluation of hair cosmetics. The paper is estimated to provide reference and guidance for the selection of appropriate in vitro methods to evaluate the performance of various hair cosmetics. The current status and development trends of in vitro evaluation technology for hair cosmetics were summarized and prospected.
The biophysical instrumental analysis techniques for hair fibers and the in vitro biological models for scalp were introduced as in vitro techniques applied in the efficacy evaluation of hair cosmetics. The paper is estimated to provide reference and guidance for the selection of appropriate in vitro methods to evaluate the performance of various hair cosmetics. The current status and development trends of in vitro evaluation technology for hair cosmetics were summarized and prospected.
引文
[1]Antunes E, Cruz C F, Azoia N G, et al. Insights on the mechanical behavior of keratin fibrils[J]. International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 2016, 89:477-483.
[2]Ali N, Zohra R R, Qader S A, et al. Scanning electron microscopy analysis of hair index on Karachi’s population for social and professional appearance enhancement[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2015, 37(3):312-320.
[3]Thibaut S, De B E, Bernard B A, et al. Chronological ageing of human hair keratin fibres[J]. Int J Cosmet Sci, 2010, 32(6):422-434.
[4]Ahn H J, Lee W S. An ultrastuctural study of hair fiber damage and restoration following treatment with permanent hair dye[J].International Journal of Dermatology, 2010, 41(2):88-92.
[5]Fernández E, Martínezteipel B, Armengol R, et al. Efficacy of antioxidants in human hair[J]. Journal of Photochemistry&Photobiology B:Biology, 2012, 117:146-156.
[6]Richena M, Rezende C A. Morphological degradation of human hair cuticle due to simulated sunlight irradiation and washing[J]. Journal of Photochemistry&Photobiology B:Biology, 2016, 161:430-440.
[7]Kim M M. Effect of procyandin oligomers on oxidative hair damage[J]. Skin Research and Technology, 2011, 17(1):108-118.
[8]Chen N, Bhushan B. Morphological, nanomechanical and cellular structural characterization of human hair and conditioner distribution using torsional resonance mode with an atomic force microscope[J].Journal of Microscopy, 2010, 220(2):96-112.
[9]Smith J R, Tsibouklis J, Nevell T G, et al. AFM friction and adhesion mapping of the substructures of human hair cuticles[J]. Applied Surface Science, 2013, 285(21):638-644.
[10]Clifford C A, Sano N, Doyle P, et al. Nanomechanical measurements of hair as an example of micro-fibre analysis using atomic force microscopy nanoindentation[J]. Ultramicroscopy, 2012, 114(4):38-45.
[11]Velasco M V, Baby A R, Sarruf F D, et al. Prospective ultramorphological characterization of human hair by optical coherence tomography[J].Skin Research&Technology, 2010, 15(4):440-443.
[12]Camacho-BragadoGA,BaloochG,Dixon-ParksF,etal. Understanding breakage in curly hair[J]. British Journal of Dermatology, 2015, 173(2):10-16.
[13]Velasco M V R, Freitas A Z, Bedin V, et al. Optical coherence tomography to evaluate the effects of oxidative hair dye on the fiber[J]. Skin Research&Technology, 2016, 22(4):430-436.
[14]Tang Y, Smith G J. Spectroscopic investigation of human hair from Chinese subjects during UVA photoageing[J]. Spectroscopy and Spectral Analysis, 2016, 36(6):1783-1788.
[15]Dario M F, Baby A R, Velasco M V. Effects of solar radiation on hair and photoprotection[J]. Journal of Photochemistry&Photobiology B:Biology, 2015, 153:240-246.
[16]Pires-Oliveira R, Joekes I. UV-vis spectra as an alternative to the Lowry method for quantify hair damage induced by surfactants[J].Colloids&Surfaces B:Biointerfaces, 2014, 123:326-330.
[17]Estibalitz Fernández, Clara Barba, Cristina Alonso, et al. Photodamage determination of human hair[J]. Journal of Photochemistry&Photobiology B:Biology, 2012, 106(1):101-106.
[18]Miyamae Y, Yamakawa Y, Ozaki Y. Evaluation of physical properties of human hair by diffuse reflectance near-infrared spectroscopy[J].Applied Spectroscopy, 2007, 61(2):212.
[19]Mv F, Nn B, Ay C, et al. Photoinduced formation of thiols in human hair[J]. Journal of Photochemistry&Photobiology B:Biology,2016, 164:43-48.
[20]Kuzuhara A. Analysis of structural changes in permanent waved human hair using Raman spectroscopy[J]. Biopolymers, 2010,85(3):274-283.
[21]Kuzuhara A. Internal structural changes in keratin fibres resulting from combined hair waving and stress relaxation treatments:a Raman spectroscopic investigation[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2016, 38(2):201-209.
[22]Kuzuhara A, Fujiwara N, Hori T. Analysis of internal structure changes in black human hair keratin fibers with aging using Raman spectroscopy[J]. Biopolymers, 2010, 87(2/3):134-140.
[23]Akio Kuzuhara. Analysis of structural changes in bleached keratin fibers(black and white human hair)using Raman spectroscopy[J].Biopolymers, 2010, 81(6):506-514.
[24]Dario M F, Freire T B, Caso P, et al. Tryptophan and kynurenine determination in human hair by liquid chromatography[J]. Journal of Chromatography B:Analytical Technologies in the Biomedical&Life Sciences, 2017, 1065:59-62.
[25]Khumalo N P, Janet S, Freedom G, et al.‘Relaxers’ damage hair:evidence from amino acid analysis[J]. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2010, 62(3):409-410.
[26]Dyer J M, Bell F, Koehn H, et al. Redox proteomic evaluation of bleaching and alkali damage in human hair[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2013, 35(6):555-561.
[27]Tang Y, Dyer J M, Deb-Choudhury S, et al. Trace metal ions in hair from frequent hair dyers in China and the associated effects on photooxidative damage[J]. Journal of Photochemistry&Photobiology B:Biology, 2016, 156:35-40.
[28]Lima C R R D C, Machado L D B, Velasco M V R, et al. DSC measurements applied to hair studies[J]. Journal of Thermal Analysis&Calorimetry, 2018(1):1-9.
[29]Ali Kamal A, Magda Mohamed I, Mohamed Abdel-Nabi E R. Thermal analysis of some antidiabetic pharmaceutical compounds[J].Advanced Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 2013, 3(2):419-424.
[30]Zhou Y, Rigoletto R, Koelmel D, et al. The effect of various cosmetic pretreatments on protecting hair from thermal damage by hot flat ironing[J]. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2011, 62(2):265.
[31]Popescu C, Gummer C. DSC of human hair:a tool for claim support or incorrect data analysis?[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2016, 38(5):433-439.
[32]Yang Y, Wen Y, Wang B, et al. Structure and mechanical behavior of human hair[J]. Materials Science&Engineering C:Materials for Biological Applications, 2017, 73:152.
[33]Davis M G, Thomas J H, Velde S V D, et al. A novel cosmetic approach to treat thinning hair[J]. British Journal of Dermatology,2015, 165(S3):24-30.
[34]Liu Yan, Liu Yijun, Hu Jinlian, et al. Development of a smart, antiwater polyurethane polymer hair coating for style setting[J].International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2016, 38(3):305-311.
[35]Chevalier N R. Hair-on-hair static friction coefficient can be determined by tying a knot[J]. Colloids&Surfaces B:Biointerfaces,2017, 159:924.
[36]Dussaud A, Fieschi-Corso L. Influence of functionalized silicones on hair fiber-fiber interactions and on the relationship with the macroscopic behavior of hair assembly[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2010, 32(2):155-160.
[37]Da G R, Fran?§A-Stefoni S A, S?-Dias T C, et al. Protective effect of conditioner agents on hair treated with oxidative hair dye[J].J Cosmet Dermatol, 2018:1-6.
[38]Rho S-S, Park S-J, Hwang S-L, et al. The hair growth promoting effect of Asiasari radix extract and its molecular regulation[J].Journal of Dermatological Science, 2005, 38(2):89-97.
[39]Begum S, Lee M R, Gu L J, et al. Comparative hair restorer efficacy of medicinal herb on nude(Foxn1nu)mice[J]. Biomed Res Int,2014, 2014(6):319795.
[40]Woo H, Lee S, Kim S, et al. Effect of sinapic acid on hair growth promoting in human hair follicle dermal papilla cells via Akt activation[J]. Archives of Dermatological Research, 2017, 309(6):1-8.
[41]Liang D, Hao H, Xia L, et al. Treatment of MSCs with Wnt1aconditioned medium activates DP cells and promotes hair follicle regrowth[J]. Sci Rep, 2014, 4:5432.
[42]Sextius P, Betts R, Benkhalifa I, et al. Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract protects human foreskin melanocytes from oxidative stress in vitro and potentiates hair follicle pigmentation ex vivo[J]. Int J Cosmet Sci, 2017, 39(4):419-425.
[43]Soares R C, Camargo-Penna P H, Moraes V C S D, et al. Dysbiotic bacterial and fungal communities not restricted to clinically affected skin sites in dandruff[J]. Frontiers in Cellular&Infection Microbiology, 2016, 6:157.
[44]Turner G A, Matheson J R, G-Z L, et al. Enhanced efficacy and sensory properties of an anti-dandruff shampoo containing zinc pyrithione and climbazole[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2013, 35(1):78-83.
[45]Sathishkumar P, Preethi J, Vijayan R, et al. Anti-acne, antidandruff and anti-breast cancer efficacy of green synthesised silver nanoparticles using Coriandrum sativum leaf extract[J]. Journal of Photochemistry&Photobiology B:Biology, 2016, 163:69-76.
[46]Onlom C, Khanthawong S, Waranuch N, et al. In vitro antiMalassezia activity and potential use in anti-dandruff formulation of asparagus racemosus[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science,2014, 36(1):74-78.
[47]Park B M, Bak S S, Shin K O, et al. Promotion of hair growth by newly synthesized ceramide mimetic compound[J]. Biochemical&Biophysical Research Communications, 2017, 491(1):173-177.
[48]Richena M, Rezende C A. Effect of photodamage on the outermost cuticle layer of human hair[J]. J Photochem Photobiol B, 2015, 153:296-304.
[49]Ayako K, Tomoya T. Procyanidin B-3, isolated from barley and identified as a hair-growth stimulant, has the potential to counteract inhibitory regulation by TGF-beta1[J]. Experimental Dermatology,2010, 11(6):532-541.
[50]Schmidt-Rose T, Braren S, F?lster H, et al. Efficacy of a piroctone olamine/climbazol shampoo in comparison with a zinc pyrithione shampoo in subjects with moderate to severe dandruff[J].International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2011, 33(3):276-282.
[2]Ali N, Zohra R R, Qader S A, et al. Scanning electron microscopy analysis of hair index on Karachi’s population for social and professional appearance enhancement[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2015, 37(3):312-320.
[3]Thibaut S, De B E, Bernard B A, et al. Chronological ageing of human hair keratin fibres[J]. Int J Cosmet Sci, 2010, 32(6):422-434.
[4]Ahn H J, Lee W S. An ultrastuctural study of hair fiber damage and restoration following treatment with permanent hair dye[J].International Journal of Dermatology, 2010, 41(2):88-92.
[5]Fernández E, Martínezteipel B, Armengol R, et al. Efficacy of antioxidants in human hair[J]. Journal of Photochemistry&Photobiology B:Biology, 2012, 117:146-156.
[6]Richena M, Rezende C A. Morphological degradation of human hair cuticle due to simulated sunlight irradiation and washing[J]. Journal of Photochemistry&Photobiology B:Biology, 2016, 161:430-440.
[7]Kim M M. Effect of procyandin oligomers on oxidative hair damage[J]. Skin Research and Technology, 2011, 17(1):108-118.
[8]Chen N, Bhushan B. Morphological, nanomechanical and cellular structural characterization of human hair and conditioner distribution using torsional resonance mode with an atomic force microscope[J].Journal of Microscopy, 2010, 220(2):96-112.
[9]Smith J R, Tsibouklis J, Nevell T G, et al. AFM friction and adhesion mapping of the substructures of human hair cuticles[J]. Applied Surface Science, 2013, 285(21):638-644.
[10]Clifford C A, Sano N, Doyle P, et al. Nanomechanical measurements of hair as an example of micro-fibre analysis using atomic force microscopy nanoindentation[J]. Ultramicroscopy, 2012, 114(4):38-45.
[11]Velasco M V, Baby A R, Sarruf F D, et al. Prospective ultramorphological characterization of human hair by optical coherence tomography[J].Skin Research&Technology, 2010, 15(4):440-443.
[12]Camacho-BragadoGA,BaloochG,Dixon-ParksF,etal. Understanding breakage in curly hair[J]. British Journal of Dermatology, 2015, 173(2):10-16.
[13]Velasco M V R, Freitas A Z, Bedin V, et al. Optical coherence tomography to evaluate the effects of oxidative hair dye on the fiber[J]. Skin Research&Technology, 2016, 22(4):430-436.
[14]Tang Y, Smith G J. Spectroscopic investigation of human hair from Chinese subjects during UVA photoageing[J]. Spectroscopy and Spectral Analysis, 2016, 36(6):1783-1788.
[15]Dario M F, Baby A R, Velasco M V. Effects of solar radiation on hair and photoprotection[J]. Journal of Photochemistry&Photobiology B:Biology, 2015, 153:240-246.
[16]Pires-Oliveira R, Joekes I. UV-vis spectra as an alternative to the Lowry method for quantify hair damage induced by surfactants[J].Colloids&Surfaces B:Biointerfaces, 2014, 123:326-330.
[17]Estibalitz Fernández, Clara Barba, Cristina Alonso, et al. Photodamage determination of human hair[J]. Journal of Photochemistry&Photobiology B:Biology, 2012, 106(1):101-106.
[18]Miyamae Y, Yamakawa Y, Ozaki Y. Evaluation of physical properties of human hair by diffuse reflectance near-infrared spectroscopy[J].Applied Spectroscopy, 2007, 61(2):212.
[19]Mv F, Nn B, Ay C, et al. Photoinduced formation of thiols in human hair[J]. Journal of Photochemistry&Photobiology B:Biology,2016, 164:43-48.
[20]Kuzuhara A. Analysis of structural changes in permanent waved human hair using Raman spectroscopy[J]. Biopolymers, 2010,85(3):274-283.
[21]Kuzuhara A. Internal structural changes in keratin fibres resulting from combined hair waving and stress relaxation treatments:a Raman spectroscopic investigation[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2016, 38(2):201-209.
[22]Kuzuhara A, Fujiwara N, Hori T. Analysis of internal structure changes in black human hair keratin fibers with aging using Raman spectroscopy[J]. Biopolymers, 2010, 87(2/3):134-140.
[23]Akio Kuzuhara. Analysis of structural changes in bleached keratin fibers(black and white human hair)using Raman spectroscopy[J].Biopolymers, 2010, 81(6):506-514.
[24]Dario M F, Freire T B, Caso P, et al. Tryptophan and kynurenine determination in human hair by liquid chromatography[J]. Journal of Chromatography B:Analytical Technologies in the Biomedical&Life Sciences, 2017, 1065:59-62.
[25]Khumalo N P, Janet S, Freedom G, et al.‘Relaxers’ damage hair:evidence from amino acid analysis[J]. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 2010, 62(3):409-410.
[26]Dyer J M, Bell F, Koehn H, et al. Redox proteomic evaluation of bleaching and alkali damage in human hair[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2013, 35(6):555-561.
[27]Tang Y, Dyer J M, Deb-Choudhury S, et al. Trace metal ions in hair from frequent hair dyers in China and the associated effects on photooxidative damage[J]. Journal of Photochemistry&Photobiology B:Biology, 2016, 156:35-40.
[28]Lima C R R D C, Machado L D B, Velasco M V R, et al. DSC measurements applied to hair studies[J]. Journal of Thermal Analysis&Calorimetry, 2018(1):1-9.
[29]Ali Kamal A, Magda Mohamed I, Mohamed Abdel-Nabi E R. Thermal analysis of some antidiabetic pharmaceutical compounds[J].Advanced Pharmaceutical Bulletin, 2013, 3(2):419-424.
[30]Zhou Y, Rigoletto R, Koelmel D, et al. The effect of various cosmetic pretreatments on protecting hair from thermal damage by hot flat ironing[J]. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2011, 62(2):265.
[31]Popescu C, Gummer C. DSC of human hair:a tool for claim support or incorrect data analysis?[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2016, 38(5):433-439.
[32]Yang Y, Wen Y, Wang B, et al. Structure and mechanical behavior of human hair[J]. Materials Science&Engineering C:Materials for Biological Applications, 2017, 73:152.
[33]Davis M G, Thomas J H, Velde S V D, et al. A novel cosmetic approach to treat thinning hair[J]. British Journal of Dermatology,2015, 165(S3):24-30.
[34]Liu Yan, Liu Yijun, Hu Jinlian, et al. Development of a smart, antiwater polyurethane polymer hair coating for style setting[J].International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2016, 38(3):305-311.
[35]Chevalier N R. Hair-on-hair static friction coefficient can be determined by tying a knot[J]. Colloids&Surfaces B:Biointerfaces,2017, 159:924.
[36]Dussaud A, Fieschi-Corso L. Influence of functionalized silicones on hair fiber-fiber interactions and on the relationship with the macroscopic behavior of hair assembly[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2010, 32(2):155-160.
[37]Da G R, Fran?§A-Stefoni S A, S?-Dias T C, et al. Protective effect of conditioner agents on hair treated with oxidative hair dye[J].J Cosmet Dermatol, 2018:1-6.
[38]Rho S-S, Park S-J, Hwang S-L, et al. The hair growth promoting effect of Asiasari radix extract and its molecular regulation[J].Journal of Dermatological Science, 2005, 38(2):89-97.
[39]Begum S, Lee M R, Gu L J, et al. Comparative hair restorer efficacy of medicinal herb on nude(Foxn1nu)mice[J]. Biomed Res Int,2014, 2014(6):319795.
[40]Woo H, Lee S, Kim S, et al. Effect of sinapic acid on hair growth promoting in human hair follicle dermal papilla cells via Akt activation[J]. Archives of Dermatological Research, 2017, 309(6):1-8.
[41]Liang D, Hao H, Xia L, et al. Treatment of MSCs with Wnt1aconditioned medium activates DP cells and promotes hair follicle regrowth[J]. Sci Rep, 2014, 4:5432.
[42]Sextius P, Betts R, Benkhalifa I, et al. Polygonum multiflorum Radix extract protects human foreskin melanocytes from oxidative stress in vitro and potentiates hair follicle pigmentation ex vivo[J]. Int J Cosmet Sci, 2017, 39(4):419-425.
[43]Soares R C, Camargo-Penna P H, Moraes V C S D, et al. Dysbiotic bacterial and fungal communities not restricted to clinically affected skin sites in dandruff[J]. Frontiers in Cellular&Infection Microbiology, 2016, 6:157.
[44]Turner G A, Matheson J R, G-Z L, et al. Enhanced efficacy and sensory properties of an anti-dandruff shampoo containing zinc pyrithione and climbazole[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2013, 35(1):78-83.
[45]Sathishkumar P, Preethi J, Vijayan R, et al. Anti-acne, antidandruff and anti-breast cancer efficacy of green synthesised silver nanoparticles using Coriandrum sativum leaf extract[J]. Journal of Photochemistry&Photobiology B:Biology, 2016, 163:69-76.
[46]Onlom C, Khanthawong S, Waranuch N, et al. In vitro antiMalassezia activity and potential use in anti-dandruff formulation of asparagus racemosus[J]. International Journal of Cosmetic Science,2014, 36(1):74-78.
[47]Park B M, Bak S S, Shin K O, et al. Promotion of hair growth by newly synthesized ceramide mimetic compound[J]. Biochemical&Biophysical Research Communications, 2017, 491(1):173-177.
[48]Richena M, Rezende C A. Effect of photodamage on the outermost cuticle layer of human hair[J]. J Photochem Photobiol B, 2015, 153:296-304.
[49]Ayako K, Tomoya T. Procyanidin B-3, isolated from barley and identified as a hair-growth stimulant, has the potential to counteract inhibitory regulation by TGF-beta1[J]. Experimental Dermatology,2010, 11(6):532-541.
[50]Schmidt-Rose T, Braren S, F?lster H, et al. Efficacy of a piroctone olamine/climbazol shampoo in comparison with a zinc pyrithione shampoo in subjects with moderate to severe dandruff[J].International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2011, 33(3):276-282.