基于缩率差异的纬向曲线织物优化设计
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摘要
为解决常规曲线织物需要特殊钢筘和打纬机构的难题,从不同组织、色块的配合、色纱的排列等方面研究了纬向曲线织物的曲线效应形成的机制,并通过试织小样,运用正交试验对纬向曲线织物的基本参数与工艺因素的关系进行了系统的分析和优化设计。试验证明组织和纬密对弯曲率具有重要影响。试验确定优化工艺为A1B1C3,即组织为平纹,筘号为157.5筘/10 cm、纬密为295根/10 cm时,可获得最大的弯曲率,其曲线效果最好,实现了新颖独特的自然纬向曲线效果,可用于各类棉型、丝型、毛型织物设计。
In order to solve the problem that weaving normal curve fabric needs special mechanical equipment,the curve effect forming mechanism of weft-curve fabric was studied from the aspects of different weaves,color area matching and the arrangement of color yarn. The relationship of fundamental parameters and process factors was analyzed and optimally designed by orthogonal test and weaving of fabrics. It has been proved that weave and weft density have great influence on the curving rate. The optimum process is A1B1C3,i. e. under conditions of plain weave,reed number of 157. 5 /10 cm and weft density of 295 /10 cm,the maximum curving rate is obtained,and the curve effect is optimized,thereby realizing unique natural weft effect. The result can be used in the design of various cotton,silk and wool fabrics.
In order to solve the problem that weaving normal curve fabric needs special mechanical equipment,the curve effect forming mechanism of weft-curve fabric was studied from the aspects of different weaves,color area matching and the arrangement of color yarn. The relationship of fundamental parameters and process factors was analyzed and optimally designed by orthogonal test and weaving of fabrics. It has been proved that weave and weft density have great influence on the curving rate. The optimum process is A1B1C3,i. e. under conditions of plain weave,reed number of 157. 5 /10 cm and weft density of 295 /10 cm,the maximum curving rate is obtained,and the curve effect is optimized,thereby realizing unique natural weft effect. The result can be used in the design of various cotton,silk and wool fabrics.
引文
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[2]张国辉.弧形织物的生产原理[J].上海纺织科技,2010,38(2):2-4.ZHANG Guohui.The forming principle of curved fabric[J].Shanghai Textile Science&Technology,2010,38(2):2-4.
[3]眭建华.纺织品创新设计的方向思维法[J].纺织学报,2013,34(2):86-90.SUI Jianhua.Directional thinking method for innovative design of textile[J].Journal of Textile Research,2013,34(2):86-90.
[4]陈春侠.竹棉弧形色织提花织物的开发[J].化纤与纺织技术,2011,40(12):13-15.CHEN Chunxia.Development of dyed and curved dobby fabricmade of bamboo and cotton yarns[J].Chemical Fiber&Textile Technology,2011,40(12):13-15.
[5]赵磊.棉/粘胶经纱曲线柔软织物的生产实践[J].上海纺织科技,2013,41(9):25-26.ZHAO Lei.The production practice of cotton/viscose warp curve soft fabrics[J].Shanghai Textile Science&Technology,2013,41(9):25-26.
[6]陈倩,眭建华.结构与工艺因素对机织物织缩率的影响[J].苏州大学学报:工科版,2011,31(1):73-75.CHEN Qian,SUI Jianhua.Influence of structure and technological factors on shrinkage of woven fabric[J].Journal of Soohow University:Engineering Science Edition,2011,31(1):73-75.
[7]眭建华,陈思霞,莫靖昱.不同紧度组织配置的织物区域扩约问题研究[J].棉纺织技术,2012,40(2):69-71.SUI Jianhua,CHEN Sixia,MO Jingyu.Research of fabric zone sphincter in different tightness weave configuration[J].Cotton Textile Technology,2012,40(2):69-71.
[8]胡秦萍,眭建华.实现机织物纱线曲折纹理效应的方法探讨[J].现代丝绸科学与技术,2010(6):3-4.HU Qinping,SUI Jianhua.Discussion of the method to realize the woven yarns'tortuous effect[J].Modern Silk Science and Technology,2010(6):3-4.
[9]眭建华,顾萍,周洋,等.织物条状模纹的研究及其组合设计[J].纺织学报,2006,27(3):36-39.SUI Jianhua,GU Ping,ZHOU Yang,et al.Study and combinatorial design of linear color-weave effects of fabric[J].Journal of Textile Research,2006,27(3):36-39.
[10]蔡陛霞,荆妙蕾.织物结构与设计[M].4版.北京:中国纺织出版社,2008:93-106.CAI Bixia,JING Miaolei.Fabric Structure and Design[M].4th ed.Beijing:China Textile&Apparel Press,2008:93-106.