仿针织牛仔面料的开发及性能评价
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摘要
为获得兼具针织和机织牛仔面料优点的新型牛仔面料,从纱线的选择、织造、后整理等方面探讨了仿针织牛仔面料的开发。对比测试了仿针织牛仔面料、针织牛仔面料、纯棉机织牛仔面料等5种面料的拉伸断裂强力、撕破强力、色牢度等指标,并利用川端织物风格评价系统对牛仔面料的拉伸、剪切、弯曲、压缩、表面摩擦5项指标进行织物风格综合分析。结果表明,采用精梳纯棉纱作为经纱,涤纶长丝氨纶包芯纱作为纬纱,选择复合右斜纹组织,经特殊后整理工艺后生产的仿针织牛仔面料经向拉伸断裂强力高达685 N,撕破强力达59 N,粗犷挺括,柔软舒适,弹性和保型性俱佳,克服了针织牛仔面料和机织牛仔面料的风格缺陷。
In order to obtain a new denim fabric with advantages of both knitted denim fabric and woven denim fabric,the development of fake knitted denim fabric was discussed from the aspects of yarn selection,weaving and finishing,and the relevant mechanical indexes of fake knitted denim fabric,knitted denim fabric and cotton woven denim fabric were compared. Furthermore, the Kawabata evaluation system was employed to synthetically analyze mechanical properties including tensile,shear,bending,compression and friction of these fabrics. The results show that the fake knitted denim fabric which uses pure cotton combed yarn and polyester filament spandex core spun yarn as warp and weft yarn,with composite right-hand twill weave,has warp tensile strength of 685 N and tear strength of 59 N after special finishing. The fake knitted denim fabric overcomes the disadvantages of both weaving denim fabric and knitted denim fabric. The fabric is stiff,smooth and soft,and also has elasticity and shaperetention in handle.
In order to obtain a new denim fabric with advantages of both knitted denim fabric and woven denim fabric,the development of fake knitted denim fabric was discussed from the aspects of yarn selection,weaving and finishing,and the relevant mechanical indexes of fake knitted denim fabric,knitted denim fabric and cotton woven denim fabric were compared. Furthermore, the Kawabata evaluation system was employed to synthetically analyze mechanical properties including tensile,shear,bending,compression and friction of these fabrics. The results show that the fake knitted denim fabric which uses pure cotton combed yarn and polyester filament spandex core spun yarn as warp and weft yarn,with composite right-hand twill weave,has warp tensile strength of 685 N and tear strength of 59 N after special finishing. The fake knitted denim fabric overcomes the disadvantages of both weaving denim fabric and knitted denim fabric. The fabric is stiff,smooth and soft,and also has elasticity and shaperetention in handle.
引文
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[9]YANG R H,KAN C W,WONG W Y,et al.Comparative study of cellulase treatment on low stress mechanical properties of cotton denim fabric made by torque-free ring spun yarn[J].Fibers and Polymers,2013,14(4):669-675.
[10]王美芹,张帆,孙宏,等.基于KES系统的再生丝麻纤维纱与毛/涤混纺纱交织精纺面料风格分析[J].毛纺科技,2016,44(7):8-11.WANG Meiqin,ZHANG Fan,SUN Hong,et al.Style analysis of regenerated silk hemp fiber worsted fabric[J].Wool Textile Journal,2016,44(7):8-11.
[11]BAIG G A,CARR C M.Kawabata evaluation of PLAknitted fabric washed with various laundering formulations[J].The Journal of The Textile Institute,2015,106(2):111-118.
[12]周建萍,陈晟.KES织物风格仪测试指标的分析及应用[J].现代纺织技术,2005,14(6):37-40.ZHOU Jianping,CHEN Sheng.Analysis and application of testing index of KES fabric style instrument[J].Advanced Textile Technology,2005,14(6):37-40.
[2]吕治家,李德朝.纬二重仿针织牛仔面料的设计与生产[J].棉纺织技术,2015,43(11):43-46.L Zhijia,LI Dezhao.Design and production of double weft knitting-like jean fabric[J].Cotton Textile Technology,2015,43(11):43-46.
[3]陈瑶.球经机控制系统的研究[D].上海:上海交通大学,2006:2-4.CHEN Yao.Research on control system of ball warp machine[D].Shanghai:Shanghai Jiaotong University,2006:2-4.
[4]李永锋,欧天豪,李开玲.纯棉薄型靛蓝牛仔布浆染工艺[J].棉纺织技术,1999,27(2):45-46.LI Yongfeng,OU Tianhao,LI Kailing.Dyeing process of pure cotton light denim fabric[J].Cotton Textile Technology,1999,27(2):45-46.
[5]ROMBALDONI F,MONTARSOLO A,MAZZUCHETTI G.KES-F characterization and hand evaluation of oxygen plasma-treated wool fabrics dyed at temperature below the boil[J].Textile Research Journal,2010,80(14):1412-1421.
[6]周玲,傅佳佳,王鸿博,等.涤/棉/竹浆纤维混色混纺仿毛织物风格评价[J].纺织学报,2016,37(5):51-55.ZHOU Ling,FU Jiajia,WANG Hongbo,et al.Evaluation on style of polyester/cotton/bamboo pulp fiber blended and color mixtured wool-like fabrics[J].Journal of Textile Research,2016,37(5):51-55.
[7]荆妙蕾,孙晶.几种织物风格和服用性能的灰色近优评价[J].棉纺织技术,2015,43(8):72-76.JING Miaolei,SUN Jing.Grey premium evaluation of several kinds of fabric style and wearability[J].Cotton Textile Technology,2015,43(8):72-76.
[8]史春丽,缪旭红,刘伟峰,等.涤纶经编短绒仿棉织物与棉机织物性能对比[J].棉纺织技术,2014,42(8):5-8.SHI Chunli,MIAO Xuhong,LIU Weifeng,et al.Property contrast between polyester warp-knitting short pile cotton-like fabric and cotton woven fabric[J].Cotton Textile Technology,2014,42(8):5-8.
[9]YANG R H,KAN C W,WONG W Y,et al.Comparative study of cellulase treatment on low stress mechanical properties of cotton denim fabric made by torque-free ring spun yarn[J].Fibers and Polymers,2013,14(4):669-675.
[10]王美芹,张帆,孙宏,等.基于KES系统的再生丝麻纤维纱与毛/涤混纺纱交织精纺面料风格分析[J].毛纺科技,2016,44(7):8-11.WANG Meiqin,ZHANG Fan,SUN Hong,et al.Style analysis of regenerated silk hemp fiber worsted fabric[J].Wool Textile Journal,2016,44(7):8-11.
[11]BAIG G A,CARR C M.Kawabata evaluation of PLAknitted fabric washed with various laundering formulations[J].The Journal of The Textile Institute,2015,106(2):111-118.
[12]周建萍,陈晟.KES织物风格仪测试指标的分析及应用[J].现代纺织技术,2005,14(6):37-40.ZHOU Jianping,CHEN Sheng.Analysis and application of testing index of KES fabric style instrument[J].Advanced Textile Technology,2005,14(6):37-40.