茶叶美容护肤作用机制及应用研究进展
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摘要
茶叶作为中国传统的美容护肤佳品,是目前使用最为广泛的植物化妆品原料。本文结合近年有关茶叶的研究工作文献,回顾了茶叶的美容护肤历史,综述茶叶在减肥降脂、美白、抗衰老、抑菌、保湿等美容护肤方面的研究进展,归纳总结了茶叶在国内外美容护肤中的应用现状,为研发具有美容护肤功效的产品提供理论依据。
As a traditional cosmetics and skin care product, tea is the most widely used raw material for botanical cosmetics currently. This article, connecting with the research literature on tea in recent years, reviews the history about cosmetology and skin care of tea, and summarizes the study advances in reducing weight of lipid-lowering, whitening,anti-aging, antibacterial, moisturizing and tea application status home and abroad. This article aims at providing theoretical basis for developing products with beauty and skin care benefits.
As a traditional cosmetics and skin care product, tea is the most widely used raw material for botanical cosmetics currently. This article, connecting with the research literature on tea in recent years, reviews the history about cosmetology and skin care of tea, and summarizes the study advances in reducing weight of lipid-lowering, whitening,anti-aging, antibacterial, moisturizing and tea application status home and abroad. This article aims at providing theoretical basis for developing products with beauty and skin care benefits.
引文
[1]谢艳君,孔维军,杨美华,等.化妆品中常用中草药原料研究进展[J].中国中药杂志,2015,40(20):3925-3931.
[2]杨嘉萌.植物提取物在化妆品中的应用及展望[J].日用化学工业,2013,43(4):313-316.
[3]吴迪,祁永华,张宁,等.水飞蓟宾防晒霜安全性评价[J].中国医药导报,2016,13(15):135-138.
[4] Park KW,Lee JE. Diets containing Sophora japonica L. prevent weight gain in high-fat diet-induced obesemice[J].Nutr Res,2009,29(11):819-824.
[5] Peng JF,Pei Q,Huang L,et al. Research progress of brick tea for weight loss effect and its influencing factors[J].Chinese Journal of Clinical Pharmacology,2013,29(12):961-964.
[6]苏静静,王雪青,宋文军,等.普洱茶茶色素对小鼠的预防肥胖作用[J].食品工业科技,2014,19(35):346-350.
[7]袁冬寅,龙军,龚志华,等.L-茶氨酸对α-淀粉酶和胰蛋白酶的抑制作用[J].食品与机械,2017,33(7):1-5.
[8] Gillbro JM,Olsson MJ. The melanogenesis andmechanisms of skin-lightening agents-existing andnew approaches[J].Int J Cosmet Sci,2011,33(3):210-221.
[9]叶希韵,朱萍亚.黑色素的合成与美白产品的研究进展[J].华东师范大学学报:自然科学版,2016(2):1-8.
[10] De Benedetto A,Kubo A,Beck LA. Skin barrier disruption:a re-quirement for allergen sensitization[J]. J Invest Dermatol,2012,132(2):949-963.
[11]张向娜,林勇,黄建安,等.茶叶提取物EGCG和GCG及ECG对B16细胞内黑色素生成的抑制作用[J].湖南农业大学学报,2017,43(4):405-410.
[12] Kim YC,Choi SY,Park EY. Anti-melanogenic effect of black,green,and white tea extracts in immortalized melanocytes[J]. J Vet Sci,2015,16(2):135-143.
[13] Dai ZJ,Wang BF,Lu WF,et al. Total flavonoids of Scutellaria barbata inhibit invasion of hepatocarcinoma via MMP/TIMP in vitro[J]. Molecules,2013,18(1):934-950.
[14]王瑞,陈波伟,杨晓萍,等.食物基质对模拟消化茶多酚含量及抗氧化活性的影响[J].华中农业大学学报,2017,36(6):105-112.
[15] Harman D. About“origin and evolution of the free radical theory of aging:a brief personal history,1954-2009”[J].Biogerontology,2009,10(6):773-781.
[16]游庭活,温露,刘凡.衰老机制及延缓衰老活性物质研究进展[J].天然产物研究与开发,2015,27(11):1985-1990.
[17]高璐,王滢,饶胜其,等.葡萄籽原花青素提取物对衰老模型小鼠抗氧化作用[J].食品科学,2014,35(23):253-256.
[18]赵欣,易若琨,孙鹏,等.苦丁茶黄酮提取物对D-半乳糖致小鼠衰老的改善作用[J].食品工业科技,2017,16(38):303-308.
[19]卢春毅,刘红,杨曦,等.金花茶对衰老大鼠的抗氧化和抗凋亡作用[J].中国老年学杂志,2015,35(1):172-173.
[20] Wang WX,Liu HY,Wang ZN,et al. Phytochemicals from Camellia nitidissima Chi inhibited the formation of advanced glycation end-products by scavenging methylglyoxal[J]. Food Chem,2016,205:204-211.
[21]王媛,荣华,初晓辉,等.普洱茶提取物及普洱茶多糖对人成纤维细胞抗衰老作用机制研究[J].云南农业大学学报,2015,30(2):219-227.
[22]焦晶晶,张英.植物类黄酮作为护肤因子在化妆品领域的研究进展[J].精细化工,2004,21(l):98-102.
[23] Chiou YS,Wu JC,Huang QR,et al. Metabolic and colonic microbiota transformation may enhance the bioactivities of dietary polyphenols[J]. J Funct Foods,2014,7(3):3-25.
[24] Anderson JC,Mccarthy RA,Paulin S,et al. Anti-staphylococcal activity and beta-lactam resistance attenuating capacity of structural analogues of(-)-epicatechin gallate[J]. Bioorg Med Chem Lett,2011,21(23):6996-7000.
[25] Lee LK,Foo KY. Recent advances on the beneficial use and health implications of Pu-Erh tea[J]. Food Research International,2013,53(2):619-628.
[26] Ohba M,Oka T,Ando T,et al. Antiviral effect of theaflavins against caliciviruses[J] J Antibiot(Tokyo),2017,70(4):443-447.
[27]高阳,赵生,许式强,等.龙井茶挥发油的旋转锥体柱提取及其应用研究[J].食品工业,2015,36(5):120-124.
[28] Li JY,Yan H,Du YL,et al. Effects of Different Mass Concentrations of Menthol on Transdermal Penetration of Catechins in vitro[J]. Journal of Southwest University,2013,35(12):145-152.
[29]梁慧玲,杨秀芳,张士康,等.茶黄素的应用、含茶黄素的护肤品:中国,ZL103083199A[P]. 2013-05-08.
[30]伍妍俊,汪小钢,宛晓春,等.甲基化EGCG的研究现状及展望[J].茶叶科学,2010,30(6):407-413.
[31]张思佳,黄璐,牟峰,等.绿茶多酚提取纯化工艺及药理作用[J].中国新药与临床杂志,2013,7(32):521-526.
[2]杨嘉萌.植物提取物在化妆品中的应用及展望[J].日用化学工业,2013,43(4):313-316.
[3]吴迪,祁永华,张宁,等.水飞蓟宾防晒霜安全性评价[J].中国医药导报,2016,13(15):135-138.
[4] Park KW,Lee JE. Diets containing Sophora japonica L. prevent weight gain in high-fat diet-induced obesemice[J].Nutr Res,2009,29(11):819-824.
[5] Peng JF,Pei Q,Huang L,et al. Research progress of brick tea for weight loss effect and its influencing factors[J].Chinese Journal of Clinical Pharmacology,2013,29(12):961-964.
[6]苏静静,王雪青,宋文军,等.普洱茶茶色素对小鼠的预防肥胖作用[J].食品工业科技,2014,19(35):346-350.
[7]袁冬寅,龙军,龚志华,等.L-茶氨酸对α-淀粉酶和胰蛋白酶的抑制作用[J].食品与机械,2017,33(7):1-5.
[8] Gillbro JM,Olsson MJ. The melanogenesis andmechanisms of skin-lightening agents-existing andnew approaches[J].Int J Cosmet Sci,2011,33(3):210-221.
[9]叶希韵,朱萍亚.黑色素的合成与美白产品的研究进展[J].华东师范大学学报:自然科学版,2016(2):1-8.
[10] De Benedetto A,Kubo A,Beck LA. Skin barrier disruption:a re-quirement for allergen sensitization[J]. J Invest Dermatol,2012,132(2):949-963.
[11]张向娜,林勇,黄建安,等.茶叶提取物EGCG和GCG及ECG对B16细胞内黑色素生成的抑制作用[J].湖南农业大学学报,2017,43(4):405-410.
[12] Kim YC,Choi SY,Park EY. Anti-melanogenic effect of black,green,and white tea extracts in immortalized melanocytes[J]. J Vet Sci,2015,16(2):135-143.
[13] Dai ZJ,Wang BF,Lu WF,et al. Total flavonoids of Scutellaria barbata inhibit invasion of hepatocarcinoma via MMP/TIMP in vitro[J]. Molecules,2013,18(1):934-950.
[14]王瑞,陈波伟,杨晓萍,等.食物基质对模拟消化茶多酚含量及抗氧化活性的影响[J].华中农业大学学报,2017,36(6):105-112.
[15] Harman D. About“origin and evolution of the free radical theory of aging:a brief personal history,1954-2009”[J].Biogerontology,2009,10(6):773-781.
[16]游庭活,温露,刘凡.衰老机制及延缓衰老活性物质研究进展[J].天然产物研究与开发,2015,27(11):1985-1990.
[17]高璐,王滢,饶胜其,等.葡萄籽原花青素提取物对衰老模型小鼠抗氧化作用[J].食品科学,2014,35(23):253-256.
[18]赵欣,易若琨,孙鹏,等.苦丁茶黄酮提取物对D-半乳糖致小鼠衰老的改善作用[J].食品工业科技,2017,16(38):303-308.
[19]卢春毅,刘红,杨曦,等.金花茶对衰老大鼠的抗氧化和抗凋亡作用[J].中国老年学杂志,2015,35(1):172-173.
[20] Wang WX,Liu HY,Wang ZN,et al. Phytochemicals from Camellia nitidissima Chi inhibited the formation of advanced glycation end-products by scavenging methylglyoxal[J]. Food Chem,2016,205:204-211.
[21]王媛,荣华,初晓辉,等.普洱茶提取物及普洱茶多糖对人成纤维细胞抗衰老作用机制研究[J].云南农业大学学报,2015,30(2):219-227.
[22]焦晶晶,张英.植物类黄酮作为护肤因子在化妆品领域的研究进展[J].精细化工,2004,21(l):98-102.
[23] Chiou YS,Wu JC,Huang QR,et al. Metabolic and colonic microbiota transformation may enhance the bioactivities of dietary polyphenols[J]. J Funct Foods,2014,7(3):3-25.
[24] Anderson JC,Mccarthy RA,Paulin S,et al. Anti-staphylococcal activity and beta-lactam resistance attenuating capacity of structural analogues of(-)-epicatechin gallate[J]. Bioorg Med Chem Lett,2011,21(23):6996-7000.
[25] Lee LK,Foo KY. Recent advances on the beneficial use and health implications of Pu-Erh tea[J]. Food Research International,2013,53(2):619-628.
[26] Ohba M,Oka T,Ando T,et al. Antiviral effect of theaflavins against caliciviruses[J] J Antibiot(Tokyo),2017,70(4):443-447.
[27]高阳,赵生,许式强,等.龙井茶挥发油的旋转锥体柱提取及其应用研究[J].食品工业,2015,36(5):120-124.
[28] Li JY,Yan H,Du YL,et al. Effects of Different Mass Concentrations of Menthol on Transdermal Penetration of Catechins in vitro[J]. Journal of Southwest University,2013,35(12):145-152.
[29]梁慧玲,杨秀芳,张士康,等.茶黄素的应用、含茶黄素的护肤品:中国,ZL103083199A[P]. 2013-05-08.
[30]伍妍俊,汪小钢,宛晓春,等.甲基化EGCG的研究现状及展望[J].茶叶科学,2010,30(6):407-413.
[31]张思佳,黄璐,牟峰,等.绿茶多酚提取纯化工艺及药理作用[J].中国新药与临床杂志,2013,7(32):521-526.