灵芝美容护肤作用机制及其在化妆品行业中的发展现状
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摘要
通过对不同产地、不同生长条件以及不同种属和部位灵芝成分的综述,阐明了不同条件下灵芝成分的差异性;概述了灵芝的美容护肤机制,总结了现阶段含灵芝的化妆品品牌及成分,并分析了市场中灵芝化妆品的开发缺陷以及技术上的不足,旨在为灵芝在化妆品中的应用提供一定的理论基础。
The differences of components of Ganoderma lucidum from different origins, different growth conditions, different species and parts were summarized. The molecular mechanisms and the cosmetic brands and ingredients containing Ganoderma lucidum at the current stage were outlined in this review. Then, we pointed out its development defects and technical deficiencies in the market through the above analysis. This review aims to lay a certain theoretical foundation for the application of Ganoderma lucidum in cosmetics.
The differences of components of Ganoderma lucidum from different origins, different growth conditions, different species and parts were summarized. The molecular mechanisms and the cosmetic brands and ingredients containing Ganoderma lucidum at the current stage were outlined in this review. Then, we pointed out its development defects and technical deficiencies in the market through the above analysis. This review aims to lay a certain theoretical foundation for the application of Ganoderma lucidum in cosmetics.
引文
[1]Taofiq O,Heleno S A,Calhelha R C,et al.The potential of Ganoderma lucidum extracts as bioactive ingredients in topical formulations,beyond its nutritional benefits[J].Food and Chemical Toxicology,2017,108:139-147.
[2]Chiu Huifang,Fu Huiyu,Lu Yanying,et al.Triterpenoids and polysaccharide peptides-enriched Ganoderma lucidum:a randomized,double-blind placebo-controlled crossover study of its antioxidation and hepatoprotective efficacy in healthy volunteers[J].Pharmaceutical Biology,2017,55(1):1041-1046.
[3]Bishop K S,Kao C H J,Xu Y,et al.From 2000 years of Ganoderma lucidum to recent developments in nutraceuticals[J].Phytochemistry,2015,114:56-65.
[4]Wang Jue,Cao Bin,Zhao Haiping,et al.Emerging roles of in antiaging[J].Aging and Disease,2017,8(6):691-707.
[5]Zhang Feng,Wang Zhifen.Analysis of the influence of environmental factors on the formation of authentic herbs[J].Modern Chinese Medicine Research and Practice,2009(5):24-25.
[6]Lai Lijuan,Deng Zulei,Ge Dezhou,et al.Determination of adenosine in Ganoderma lucidum from different areas by HPLC[J].Strait Pharmaceutical Journal,2017,29(8):54-56.
[7]Huang Shengquan.Extraction,separation,structure analysis and biological activity of Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharide[D].Guangzhou:South China University of Technology,2010.
[8]Li Jingjing,Liu Jingjing,Si Jinping,et al.Analysis of oil composition in different parts of chitosan[J].China Journal of Chinese Materia Medica,2015,40(14):2814-2819.
[9]Ding Ping,Zhang Danyan,Xu Honghua.Determination of ganoderic acid B in Ganoderma lucidum by RP-HPLC[J].Chinese Traditional and Herbal Drugs,2001,32(4):310-312.
[10]Hu Binjie,Jing Zhongjian,Hao Xicai.Determination of polysaccharide content in different parts of Ganoderma lucidum[J].Food Research and Development,2007,28(6):129-131.
[11]Yuan Xuejun,Chen Zhongyin,Chen Guangzhou,et al.Effects of different parts and particle size on medicinal components of Ganoderma lucidum tea[J].Chinese Edible Fungi,2013,32(3):54-55.
[12]Chen Linghua,Cheng Zuxin,Xu Ming.Study on the differences of polysaccharides in 53 varieties of Ganoderma lucidum fruit body[J].Natural Science Journal of Harbin Normal University,2017,33(3):86-91.
[13]Yang Ge.Study on amino acids of Ganoderma lucidum[J].Amino Acids and Biologic Resources,1994(4):12-14.
[14]Guo Jinying,Zhu Youyou,Liu Guiqiao,et al.Comparative analysis of main active ingredients and nutrients in different varieties of Ganoderma lucidum[J].Northern Horticulture,2017(17):177-180.
[15]Feng Huiqin,Yang Mingjun,Yang Xiaotong,et al.Determination of total triterpenoic acid in extracts of Ganoderma lucidum and fruiting bodies in different parts[J].Journal of Shanghai Normal University(Natural Sciences Edition),2013,42(2):192-196.
[16]Lee H,Cha H J.Poria cocos Wolf extracts represses pigmentation in vitro and in vivo[J].Cellular and Molecular Biology,2018,64(5):80-84.
[17]Draelos Z D.The science behind skin care:Moisturizers[J].Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology,2018,17(2):138-144.
[18]Wang Lixia,Qian Jia,Zhao Linan,et al.Effects of volatile oil from ginger on the murine B16 melanoma cells and its mechanism[J].Food&Function,2018,9(2):1058-1069.
[19]Zhao Dan,Xu Danni,Wang Dongdong,et al.Composition testing of white Ganoderma lucidum fermentation broth and evaluation of its whitening and anti-aging effects[J].China Surfactant Detergent&Cosmetics,2016,46(4):226-230.
[20]Hyde K D,Bahkali A H,Moslem M A.Fungi-an unusual source for cosmetics[J].Fungal Diversity,2010,43(1):1-9.
[21]Kim J W,Kim H I,Kim J H,et al.Effects of ganodermanondiol,a new melanogenesis inhibitor from the medicinal mushroom Ganoderma lucidum[J].International Journal of Molecular Sciences,2016,17(11):1798.
[22]Harding C R,Long S,Richardson J,et al.The cornified cell envelope:an important marker of stratum corneum maturation in healthy and dry skin[J].International Journal of Cosmetic Science,2003,25(4):157-167.
[23]Liu Min,Zhang Yun,Cui Yan.Polysaccharides:a novel cosmetic moisturizer[J].China Laundry Industry,2010(1):69-71.
[24]Hua Yanglin,Zhang Miao,Li Jun,et al.Fermentation optimization and moisturizing performance evaluation of Ganoderma lucidum extract[J].Biomass Chemical Engineering,2016,50(5):22-28.
[25]Zhong Liuyan.Study on fermentation process of Ganoderma lucidum extract and evaluation of moisturizing function of fermentation product[D].Guangzhou:South China Agricultural University,2016.
[26]Zhang Cuili,Fu Lina,Yang Xiaoyun,et al.Research progress on the relationship between reactive oxygen species and cell senescence[J].Guangzhou Chemical Industry and Technology,2015,43(19):5-7.
[27]Liochev S.Reactive oxygen species and the free radical theory of aging[J].Free Radical Biology and Medicine,2013,60(10):1-4.
[28]Smina T P,Joseph J,Janardhanan K K.Ganoderma lucidum total triterpenes preventγ-radiation induced oxidative stress in swiss albino mice in vivo[J].Redox Report Communications in Free Radical Research,2016,21(6):254-261.
[29]Wang Jue,Cao Bin,Zhao Haiping,et al.Emerging roles of Ganoderma lucidum in anti-aging[J].Aging&Disease,2017,8(6):691.
[30]Zhang Zhijun,Li Shufen,Wei Xuesheng,et al.Antioxidant activity of ganoderma lucidum polysaccharide in vitro[J].Chemical and Biological Engineering of China,2011,28(3):63-65.
[31]Lin Xiao,Pan Wenjia.Anti-aging effect of Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharides[J].Journal of Liaoning University of Chinese Medicine,2009(9):174-175.
[32]Li Xiang.Experimental study on the retardation of skin aging caused by Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharides[D].Zhanjiang:Guangdong Medical College,2009.
[33]Xie Shaoqiong,Liao Wanqing.Study on the expression of senescence-associated genes in keratinocytes of Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharides[G]//Suzhou:2006 China Integrative Medicine Conference,2006.
[34]Wei Xiaodong,Deng Lianrui,Zhang Huidan,et al.Effect of Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharide on anti-H2O2-induced HDF cell senescence and its mechanism[J].Chinese Gerontology,2009,29(11):1347-1349.
[35]Zhong Dandan,Wang Hongkai,Liu Ming,et al.Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharide peptide prevents renal ischemia reperfusion injury via counteracting oxidative stress[J].Chinese Journal of Pharmacology and Toxicology,2015,5:72-73.
[36]Qian Ruizhe,Yang Shichun,Zhang Guoping,et al.Preliminary observation on the effect of Ganoderma lucidum skin cream on blood perfusion and water content in skin microcirculation[J].Chinese Journal of Microcirculation,1998(3):140-142.
[37]Yang Hongmei,Wang Li,Chen Jie,et al.Experimental study on hemorheology of hemorrhagic shock in rabbits with Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharide[J].Chinese Journal of Traditional Chinese Medicine,2004,22(5):914-915.
[38]Qian Ruizhe,Sun Ning,Jin Huiming,et al.Effects of Ganoderma lucidum on proliferation and apoptosis of cultured microvascular endothelial cells in vitro[J].Chinese Journal of Microcirculation,2002,6(2):72-74.
[39]Sacchidanand S A,Lahiri K,Godse K,et al.Synchronizing pharmacotherapy in acne with review of clinical care[J].Indian Journal of Dermatology,2017,62(4):341-357.
[40]Fujita R,Liu J,Shimizu K,et al.Anti-androgenic activities of Ganoderma lucidum[J].Journal of Ethnopharmacology,2005,102(1):107.
[41]Liu J,Shimizu K,Konishi F,et al.The anti-androgen effect of ganoderol B isolated from the fruiting body of Ganoderma lucidum[J].Bioorganic&Medicinal Chemistry,2007,38(43):4966-4972.
[42]Zhang Yansong,Li Wenjuan,Tang Xiaofang,et al.Effect of polysaccharides from Ganoderma lucidum on the in vivo antiinflammatory activity and expression of mannose receptor[J].Food Science,2017,38(13):167-173.
[43]Chen Yusheng,Chen Quansheng.Anti-inflammatory and hepatoprotective activity of Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharide on CCl4-induced acute liver injury in mice[J].Food Science,2017,38(17):210-215.
[44]Taofiq O,Martins A,Barreiro M F,et al.Anti-inflammatory potential of mushroom extracts and isolated metabolites[J].Trends in Food Science&Technology,2016,50:193-210.
[45]Powell M.The use of Ganoderma lucidum(Reishi)in the management of histamine-mediated allergic responses[J].Townsend Letter,2006,111:135-149.
[46]Kohda H,Tokumoto W,Sakamoto K,et al.The biologically active constituents of Ganoderma lucidum(Fr.)Karst.histamine releaseinhibitory triterpenes[J].Chemical&Pharmaceutical Bulletin,1985,33(4):1367-1374.
[47]Tasaka K,Akagi M,Miyoshi K,et al.Anti-allergic constituents in the culture medium of Ganoderma lucidum.(I).Inhibitory effect of oleic acid on histamine release[J].Agents&Actions,1988,23:153.
[48]Zhao Chengping,Feng Cuiping,Chang Xiaomin.Study on the antimicrobial activity of Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharide[J].Edible Mushroom,2012(2):60-61.
[2]Chiu Huifang,Fu Huiyu,Lu Yanying,et al.Triterpenoids and polysaccharide peptides-enriched Ganoderma lucidum:a randomized,double-blind placebo-controlled crossover study of its antioxidation and hepatoprotective efficacy in healthy volunteers[J].Pharmaceutical Biology,2017,55(1):1041-1046.
[3]Bishop K S,Kao C H J,Xu Y,et al.From 2000 years of Ganoderma lucidum to recent developments in nutraceuticals[J].Phytochemistry,2015,114:56-65.
[4]Wang Jue,Cao Bin,Zhao Haiping,et al.Emerging roles of in antiaging[J].Aging and Disease,2017,8(6):691-707.
[5]Zhang Feng,Wang Zhifen.Analysis of the influence of environmental factors on the formation of authentic herbs[J].Modern Chinese Medicine Research and Practice,2009(5):24-25.
[6]Lai Lijuan,Deng Zulei,Ge Dezhou,et al.Determination of adenosine in Ganoderma lucidum from different areas by HPLC[J].Strait Pharmaceutical Journal,2017,29(8):54-56.
[7]Huang Shengquan.Extraction,separation,structure analysis and biological activity of Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharide[D].Guangzhou:South China University of Technology,2010.
[8]Li Jingjing,Liu Jingjing,Si Jinping,et al.Analysis of oil composition in different parts of chitosan[J].China Journal of Chinese Materia Medica,2015,40(14):2814-2819.
[9]Ding Ping,Zhang Danyan,Xu Honghua.Determination of ganoderic acid B in Ganoderma lucidum by RP-HPLC[J].Chinese Traditional and Herbal Drugs,2001,32(4):310-312.
[10]Hu Binjie,Jing Zhongjian,Hao Xicai.Determination of polysaccharide content in different parts of Ganoderma lucidum[J].Food Research and Development,2007,28(6):129-131.
[11]Yuan Xuejun,Chen Zhongyin,Chen Guangzhou,et al.Effects of different parts and particle size on medicinal components of Ganoderma lucidum tea[J].Chinese Edible Fungi,2013,32(3):54-55.
[12]Chen Linghua,Cheng Zuxin,Xu Ming.Study on the differences of polysaccharides in 53 varieties of Ganoderma lucidum fruit body[J].Natural Science Journal of Harbin Normal University,2017,33(3):86-91.
[13]Yang Ge.Study on amino acids of Ganoderma lucidum[J].Amino Acids and Biologic Resources,1994(4):12-14.
[14]Guo Jinying,Zhu Youyou,Liu Guiqiao,et al.Comparative analysis of main active ingredients and nutrients in different varieties of Ganoderma lucidum[J].Northern Horticulture,2017(17):177-180.
[15]Feng Huiqin,Yang Mingjun,Yang Xiaotong,et al.Determination of total triterpenoic acid in extracts of Ganoderma lucidum and fruiting bodies in different parts[J].Journal of Shanghai Normal University(Natural Sciences Edition),2013,42(2):192-196.
[16]Lee H,Cha H J.Poria cocos Wolf extracts represses pigmentation in vitro and in vivo[J].Cellular and Molecular Biology,2018,64(5):80-84.
[17]Draelos Z D.The science behind skin care:Moisturizers[J].Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology,2018,17(2):138-144.
[18]Wang Lixia,Qian Jia,Zhao Linan,et al.Effects of volatile oil from ginger on the murine B16 melanoma cells and its mechanism[J].Food&Function,2018,9(2):1058-1069.
[19]Zhao Dan,Xu Danni,Wang Dongdong,et al.Composition testing of white Ganoderma lucidum fermentation broth and evaluation of its whitening and anti-aging effects[J].China Surfactant Detergent&Cosmetics,2016,46(4):226-230.
[20]Hyde K D,Bahkali A H,Moslem M A.Fungi-an unusual source for cosmetics[J].Fungal Diversity,2010,43(1):1-9.
[21]Kim J W,Kim H I,Kim J H,et al.Effects of ganodermanondiol,a new melanogenesis inhibitor from the medicinal mushroom Ganoderma lucidum[J].International Journal of Molecular Sciences,2016,17(11):1798.
[22]Harding C R,Long S,Richardson J,et al.The cornified cell envelope:an important marker of stratum corneum maturation in healthy and dry skin[J].International Journal of Cosmetic Science,2003,25(4):157-167.
[23]Liu Min,Zhang Yun,Cui Yan.Polysaccharides:a novel cosmetic moisturizer[J].China Laundry Industry,2010(1):69-71.
[24]Hua Yanglin,Zhang Miao,Li Jun,et al.Fermentation optimization and moisturizing performance evaluation of Ganoderma lucidum extract[J].Biomass Chemical Engineering,2016,50(5):22-28.
[25]Zhong Liuyan.Study on fermentation process of Ganoderma lucidum extract and evaluation of moisturizing function of fermentation product[D].Guangzhou:South China Agricultural University,2016.
[26]Zhang Cuili,Fu Lina,Yang Xiaoyun,et al.Research progress on the relationship between reactive oxygen species and cell senescence[J].Guangzhou Chemical Industry and Technology,2015,43(19):5-7.
[27]Liochev S.Reactive oxygen species and the free radical theory of aging[J].Free Radical Biology and Medicine,2013,60(10):1-4.
[28]Smina T P,Joseph J,Janardhanan K K.Ganoderma lucidum total triterpenes preventγ-radiation induced oxidative stress in swiss albino mice in vivo[J].Redox Report Communications in Free Radical Research,2016,21(6):254-261.
[29]Wang Jue,Cao Bin,Zhao Haiping,et al.Emerging roles of Ganoderma lucidum in anti-aging[J].Aging&Disease,2017,8(6):691.
[30]Zhang Zhijun,Li Shufen,Wei Xuesheng,et al.Antioxidant activity of ganoderma lucidum polysaccharide in vitro[J].Chemical and Biological Engineering of China,2011,28(3):63-65.
[31]Lin Xiao,Pan Wenjia.Anti-aging effect of Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharides[J].Journal of Liaoning University of Chinese Medicine,2009(9):174-175.
[32]Li Xiang.Experimental study on the retardation of skin aging caused by Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharides[D].Zhanjiang:Guangdong Medical College,2009.
[33]Xie Shaoqiong,Liao Wanqing.Study on the expression of senescence-associated genes in keratinocytes of Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharides[G]//Suzhou:2006 China Integrative Medicine Conference,2006.
[34]Wei Xiaodong,Deng Lianrui,Zhang Huidan,et al.Effect of Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharide on anti-H2O2-induced HDF cell senescence and its mechanism[J].Chinese Gerontology,2009,29(11):1347-1349.
[35]Zhong Dandan,Wang Hongkai,Liu Ming,et al.Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharide peptide prevents renal ischemia reperfusion injury via counteracting oxidative stress[J].Chinese Journal of Pharmacology and Toxicology,2015,5:72-73.
[36]Qian Ruizhe,Yang Shichun,Zhang Guoping,et al.Preliminary observation on the effect of Ganoderma lucidum skin cream on blood perfusion and water content in skin microcirculation[J].Chinese Journal of Microcirculation,1998(3):140-142.
[37]Yang Hongmei,Wang Li,Chen Jie,et al.Experimental study on hemorheology of hemorrhagic shock in rabbits with Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharide[J].Chinese Journal of Traditional Chinese Medicine,2004,22(5):914-915.
[38]Qian Ruizhe,Sun Ning,Jin Huiming,et al.Effects of Ganoderma lucidum on proliferation and apoptosis of cultured microvascular endothelial cells in vitro[J].Chinese Journal of Microcirculation,2002,6(2):72-74.
[39]Sacchidanand S A,Lahiri K,Godse K,et al.Synchronizing pharmacotherapy in acne with review of clinical care[J].Indian Journal of Dermatology,2017,62(4):341-357.
[40]Fujita R,Liu J,Shimizu K,et al.Anti-androgenic activities of Ganoderma lucidum[J].Journal of Ethnopharmacology,2005,102(1):107.
[41]Liu J,Shimizu K,Konishi F,et al.The anti-androgen effect of ganoderol B isolated from the fruiting body of Ganoderma lucidum[J].Bioorganic&Medicinal Chemistry,2007,38(43):4966-4972.
[42]Zhang Yansong,Li Wenjuan,Tang Xiaofang,et al.Effect of polysaccharides from Ganoderma lucidum on the in vivo antiinflammatory activity and expression of mannose receptor[J].Food Science,2017,38(13):167-173.
[43]Chen Yusheng,Chen Quansheng.Anti-inflammatory and hepatoprotective activity of Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharide on CCl4-induced acute liver injury in mice[J].Food Science,2017,38(17):210-215.
[44]Taofiq O,Martins A,Barreiro M F,et al.Anti-inflammatory potential of mushroom extracts and isolated metabolites[J].Trends in Food Science&Technology,2016,50:193-210.
[45]Powell M.The use of Ganoderma lucidum(Reishi)in the management of histamine-mediated allergic responses[J].Townsend Letter,2006,111:135-149.
[46]Kohda H,Tokumoto W,Sakamoto K,et al.The biologically active constituents of Ganoderma lucidum(Fr.)Karst.histamine releaseinhibitory triterpenes[J].Chemical&Pharmaceutical Bulletin,1985,33(4):1367-1374.
[47]Tasaka K,Akagi M,Miyoshi K,et al.Anti-allergic constituents in the culture medium of Ganoderma lucidum.(I).Inhibitory effect of oleic acid on histamine release[J].Agents&Actions,1988,23:153.
[48]Zhao Chengping,Feng Cuiping,Chang Xiaomin.Study on the antimicrobial activity of Ganoderma lucidum polysaccharide[J].Edible Mushroom,2012(2):60-61.