多效防护霜的处方优化
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摘要
目的研制一款具有防水、防晒、防水母蜇伤的多效防护霜,并对其处方进行优化,使其具有较好的防水性能和较高的防晒指数(SPF值),同时具有适宜的黏度和较好的稳定性。方法通过测定SPF值、关键波长和防水性能对处方中的成膜剂吡咯烷酮/十六烯共聚物(Antaron V-216)的质量分数进行优化。然后以黏度、离心稳定性和冻融稳定性为考察指标,使用星点设计-效应面法对多效防护霜中的两种乳化剂和氯化钙水溶液的质量分数进行优化。结果当成膜剂Antaron V-216质量分数为3%时,霜剂的SPF值提升较为显著。当乳化剂月桂基聚乙二醇/聚丙二醇-18/18二甲基硅氧烷(DC5200)质量分数为0.76%,乳化剂鲸蜡基聚乙二醇/聚丙二醇-10/1二甲基硅氧烷(EM180)质量分数为2.32%,氯化钙水溶液质量分数为44.86%时,霜剂具有适宜的黏度和较好的稳定性。结论经过优化的处方具有较高的防水性能和SPF值,黏度适宜,稳定性较好。
Objective To develop a multi-purpose protective cream with waterproof,sunscreen and jellyfish sting protection and optimize the formulation to provide good water resistance,high SPF,suitable viscosity and good stability.Methods The mass fraction of the film former VP/Hexadecene copolymer(Antaron V-216) in the formulation was optimized through the measurement of SPF value,critical wavelength and water resistance.Based on viscosity,centrifugal stability and freeze-thaw stability,the central composite design-response surface method was used to optimize the mass fraction of two emulsifiers and CaCl_2 aqueous solution in the cream.Results When the film former Antaron V-216 has a mass fraction of 3%,the SPF value of the cream is significantly increased.When the mass fraction of emulsifier lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 methicone(DC5200) is 0.76%,the mass fraction of emulsifier cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone(EM180) is 2.32% and the mass fraction of CaCl_2 aqueous solution is 44.86%,the cream has suitable viscosity and good stability.Conclusion The optimized formulation has high water resistance and SPF value,suitable viscosity and good stability.
Objective To develop a multi-purpose protective cream with waterproof,sunscreen and jellyfish sting protection and optimize the formulation to provide good water resistance,high SPF,suitable viscosity and good stability.Methods The mass fraction of the film former VP/Hexadecene copolymer(Antaron V-216) in the formulation was optimized through the measurement of SPF value,critical wavelength and water resistance.Based on viscosity,centrifugal stability and freeze-thaw stability,the central composite design-response surface method was used to optimize the mass fraction of two emulsifiers and CaCl_2 aqueous solution in the cream.Results When the film former Antaron V-216 has a mass fraction of 3%,the SPF value of the cream is significantly increased.When the mass fraction of emulsifier lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 methicone(DC5200) is 0.76%,the mass fraction of emulsifier cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone(EM180) is 2.32% and the mass fraction of CaCl_2 aqueous solution is 44.86%,the cream has suitable viscosity and good stability.Conclusion The optimized formulation has high water resistance and SPF value,suitable viscosity and good stability.
引文
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[3] 王伟新,王玉梅,平安,等.海上训练防晒霜的研制与效果评价[J].解放军药学学报,2004,20(1):40-42.
[4] BOULWARE D R.A randomized,controlled field trial for the prevention of jellyfish stings witha topical sting inhibitor[J].J Travel Med,2006,13(3):166-171.
[5] 张智.水母蜇伤皮肤防护剂研究[D].上海:第二军医大学,2010.
[6] LOTAN A.Method for inhibiting nematocyst discharge: US,US6406709[P].2002.
[7] 唐俊敏.油包水乳化体系的配方设计及生产工艺研究(待续)[J].日用化学品科学,2006,29(10):39-41.
[8] 唐俊敏.油包水乳化体系的配方设计及生产工艺研究(续前)[J].日用化学品科学,2006,29(11):34-37.
[9] 董银卯.化妆品配方设计7步[M].北京:化学工业出版社,2016.
[10] GASPAR L R,MAIA CAMPOS P M.Rheological behavior and the SPF of sunscreens[J].Int J Pharm,2003,250(1): 35-44.
[11] COUTEAU C,PAPARIS E,EL-BOURRY-ALAMI S,et al.Influence on SPF of the quantity of sunscreen product applied[J].Int J Pharm,2012,437(1-2): 250-252.
[12] OUYANG H.Evaluation of sunscreens using the critical wavelength test[J].Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology,2013,68(4):AB185.
[13] 常明泉,王刚,汪依林,等.派莎防晒霜体外抗水效能的测定[J].中国药房,2010(33): 3109-3110.
[14] HEINRICH U,TRONNIER H,KOCKOTT D,et al.Comparison of sun protection factors determined by an invivo,and different invitro,methodologies: a study with 58 different commercially available sunscreen products[J].Int J Cosmet Sci,2004,26(2):79-89.
[15] COLIPA In vitro UV protection method task force.COLIPA 2011:Method for in vitro determination of UVA protection[S].2011
[16] 李竹,苏瑾,周世伟,等.防晒化妆品防水功效评价参数研究[J].上海预防医学杂志,2008(09):423-426.
[17] 中国轻工业联合会.GB/T 29665-2013:护肤乳液[S].北京:中国标准出版社,2013.
[18] 侯晓军,唐菱,周芃,等.星点设计-效应面法优化硼酸乳膏基质配方及质量控制[J].中国药师,2016,19(5):879-883.
[19] 中国轻工业联合会.GB/T 13531.1-2008:化妆品通用检验方法 pH值的测定[S].北京:中国标准出版社,2008.
[20] 国家轻工业局行业管理司.QB/T2410-1998:防晒化妆品UVB区防晒效果的评价方法紫外吸光度法[S].北京:中国标准出版社,1998.