天然植物美白活性成分的研究进展
摘要
随着人们对美白化妆品的安全性重视程度的提高,研究发现天然植物活性成分作为化妆品美白添加剂,具有温和、持久、安全性高等特性。文章在收集和整理相关资料的基础上,着重对黑色素的形成机制、美白机理、植物美白活性成分和功效进行较为全面的介绍,以期为今后试验提供一定的理论基础。
引文
[1]穆燕,魏海柳,李琳,等.白附子酪氨酸酶活性抑制成分的提取与分离[J].食品工业科技,2012,33(11):247-249.
[2]刘畅,莫思颖,张怡,等.20种植物醇提物美白作用的体外测试[J].日用化学工业,2013(6):450-452.
[3]Momtaz S,Mapunya B M,Houghton P J,et al.Tyrosinase inhibition by extracts and constituents of Sideroxylon inerme L.stem bark,used in South Africa for skin lightening[J].Journal of Ethnopharmacology,2008,119(3):507-512.
[4]张建友,方艳燕,吴晓琴,等.天然活性美白化妆品研究现状及发展前景[J].精细化工,2008,25(1):72-76.
[5]Hearing V J.Biogenesis of pigment granules:a sensitive way to regulate melanocyte function[J].Journal of Dermatological Science,2005,37(1):3-14.
[6]Sturm R A,Teasdale R D,Box N F.Human pigmentation genes:identification,structure and consequences of polymorphic variation[J].Gene,2001,277(1-2):49-62.
[7]焦晶晶,张英.植物类黄酮作为护肤因子在化妆品领域的研究进展[J].精细化工,2004,21(z1):98-102.
[8]王鹏,王勇刚,李素霞,等.美白活性原料的筛选及其特性研究[J].日用化学工业,2009,39(4):245-248.
[9]Seo S Y,And V K S,Sharma N.Mushroom Tyrosinase:Recent Prospects[J].Journal of Agricultural&Food Chemistry,2003,51(10):2837-2853.
[10]Chang T S.An updated review of tyrosinase inhibitors[J].International Journal of Molecular Sciences,2009,10(6):2440-2475.
[11]孙玥,张艳丽.植物提取物在化妆品中的功效及应用[J].日用化学品科学,2013,36(6):35-38.
[12]曾鸣,徐良.化妆品用植物提取物美白潜力评估的研究进展[J].日用化学工业,2013,43(5):382-385.
[13]Xie L P,Chen Q X,Huang H,et al.Inhibitory effects of some flavonoids on the activity of mushroom tyrosinase[J].Biochemistry Biokhimiia,2003,68(4):487-91.
[14]付建红,祁瑞,郑静,等.桑叶黄酮抑制酪氨酸酶活性的动力学研究[J].日用化学工业,2014,44(10):564-567.
[15]傅博强,李欢,王小如,等.甘草黄酮类化合物对酪氨酸酶单酚酶的抑制[J].天然产物研究与开发,2005,17(4):391-395.
[16]杨壮群,王正辉,屠军波,等.芦荟苦素与熊果苷对体外培养的黑素细胞协同影响的实验研究[J].中华整形外科杂志,2004,20(5):369-371.
[17]桂卉,唐婷,严航,等.葛根黄酮类物质美白作用的研究[J].日用化学工业,2013,43(4):290-293.
[18]潘维,罗增锋,刘锦梅.槐豆黄酮提取物对酪氨酸酶活性抑制作用的研究[J].现代农业科学,2008(8):12-13.
[19]Hakozaki T,Minwalla L,Zhuang J,et al.The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer[J].British Journal of Dermatology,2002,147(1):20-31.
[20]Sugimoto K,Nishimura T,Nomura K,et al.Inhibitory effects of alpha-arbutin on melanin synthesis in cultured human melanoma cells and a three-dimensional human skin model[J].Biological&Pharmaceutical Bulletin,2004,27(4):510.
[21]Nihei K I,Yamagiwa Y,Kamikawa T,et al.2-Hydroxy-4-isopropylbenzaldehyde,a potent partial tyrosinase inhibitor[J].Bioorganic&Medicinal Chemistry Letters,2004,14(3):681-683.
[22]宋康康,黄璜,陈清西,等.羟基甲氧基苯甲醛在化妆品中起增白作用的研究[J].日用化学工业,2004,34(1):65-68.
[23]Ohguchi K,Tanaka T,Ito T,et al.Inhibitory Effects of Resveratrol Derivatives from Dipterocarpaceae Plants on Tyrosinase Activity[J].Bioscience Biotechnology&Biochemistry,2003,67(7):1587-1589.
[24]Shimizu K,Yasutake S,Kondo R.A new stilbene with tyrosinase inhibitory activity from Chlorophora excelsa.[J].Chemical&Pharmaceutical Bulletin,2003,51(3):318-319.
[25]Ohguchi K,Tanaka T,Iliya I,et al.Gnetol as a potent tyrosinase inhibitor from genus Gnetum.[J].Bioscience Biotechnology&Biochemistry,2003,67(3):663-665.
[26]宋康康.抑制剂对酪氨酸酶的效应及其对黑色素生成调控的研究[D].厦门:厦门大学,2007.
[27]胡君姣,李琼,李想,等.祛斑化妆品研究进展及其功效评价[J].香料香精化妆品,2013(6):59-63.
[28]Rietjens I M,Boersma M G,Ld H,et al.The pro-oxidant chemistry of the natural antioxidants vitamin C,vitamin E,carotenoids and flavonoids[J].Environ Toxicol Pharmacol,2002,11(3):321-333.
[29]Son K H,Heo M Y.The evaluation of depigmenting efficacy in the skin for the development of new whitening agents in Korea.[J].International Journal of Cosmetic Science,2013,35(1):9-18.
[30]张建友,方艳燕,吴晓琴,等.天然活性美白化妆品研究现状及发展前景[J].精细化工,2008,25(1):72-76.
[31]Boissy R E,Marty V,Delong M A.Deoxy Arbutin:a novel reversible tyrosinase inhibitor with effective in vivo skin lightening potency.[J].Experimental Dermatology,2010,14(8):601-608.
[32]康琰琰,张美英,邢少璟,等.几种天然活性物对黑色素细胞毒性及美白功效的比较[J].日用化学工业,2005,35(6):361-363.
[33]陶丽莉,刘洋,吴金昊,等.化妆品美白功效评价方法研究进展[J].日用化学品科学,2015,38(3):15-21.
[34]Liang C H,Tzunghan C,Ding H Y.Inhibition of melanogensis by a novel origanoside from Origanum vulgare[J].Journal of Dermatological Science,2010,57(3):170-177.
[2]刘畅,莫思颖,张怡,等.20种植物醇提物美白作用的体外测试[J].日用化学工业,2013(6):450-452.
[3]Momtaz S,Mapunya B M,Houghton P J,et al.Tyrosinase inhibition by extracts and constituents of Sideroxylon inerme L.stem bark,used in South Africa for skin lightening[J].Journal of Ethnopharmacology,2008,119(3):507-512.
[4]张建友,方艳燕,吴晓琴,等.天然活性美白化妆品研究现状及发展前景[J].精细化工,2008,25(1):72-76.
[5]Hearing V J.Biogenesis of pigment granules:a sensitive way to regulate melanocyte function[J].Journal of Dermatological Science,2005,37(1):3-14.
[6]Sturm R A,Teasdale R D,Box N F.Human pigmentation genes:identification,structure and consequences of polymorphic variation[J].Gene,2001,277(1-2):49-62.
[7]焦晶晶,张英.植物类黄酮作为护肤因子在化妆品领域的研究进展[J].精细化工,2004,21(z1):98-102.
[8]王鹏,王勇刚,李素霞,等.美白活性原料的筛选及其特性研究[J].日用化学工业,2009,39(4):245-248.
[9]Seo S Y,And V K S,Sharma N.Mushroom Tyrosinase:Recent Prospects[J].Journal of Agricultural&Food Chemistry,2003,51(10):2837-2853.
[10]Chang T S.An updated review of tyrosinase inhibitors[J].International Journal of Molecular Sciences,2009,10(6):2440-2475.
[11]孙玥,张艳丽.植物提取物在化妆品中的功效及应用[J].日用化学品科学,2013,36(6):35-38.
[12]曾鸣,徐良.化妆品用植物提取物美白潜力评估的研究进展[J].日用化学工业,2013,43(5):382-385.
[13]Xie L P,Chen Q X,Huang H,et al.Inhibitory effects of some flavonoids on the activity of mushroom tyrosinase[J].Biochemistry Biokhimiia,2003,68(4):487-91.
[14]付建红,祁瑞,郑静,等.桑叶黄酮抑制酪氨酸酶活性的动力学研究[J].日用化学工业,2014,44(10):564-567.
[15]傅博强,李欢,王小如,等.甘草黄酮类化合物对酪氨酸酶单酚酶的抑制[J].天然产物研究与开发,2005,17(4):391-395.
[16]杨壮群,王正辉,屠军波,等.芦荟苦素与熊果苷对体外培养的黑素细胞协同影响的实验研究[J].中华整形外科杂志,2004,20(5):369-371.
[17]桂卉,唐婷,严航,等.葛根黄酮类物质美白作用的研究[J].日用化学工业,2013,43(4):290-293.
[18]潘维,罗增锋,刘锦梅.槐豆黄酮提取物对酪氨酸酶活性抑制作用的研究[J].现代农业科学,2008(8):12-13.
[19]Hakozaki T,Minwalla L,Zhuang J,et al.The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer[J].British Journal of Dermatology,2002,147(1):20-31.
[20]Sugimoto K,Nishimura T,Nomura K,et al.Inhibitory effects of alpha-arbutin on melanin synthesis in cultured human melanoma cells and a three-dimensional human skin model[J].Biological&Pharmaceutical Bulletin,2004,27(4):510.
[21]Nihei K I,Yamagiwa Y,Kamikawa T,et al.2-Hydroxy-4-isopropylbenzaldehyde,a potent partial tyrosinase inhibitor[J].Bioorganic&Medicinal Chemistry Letters,2004,14(3):681-683.
[22]宋康康,黄璜,陈清西,等.羟基甲氧基苯甲醛在化妆品中起增白作用的研究[J].日用化学工业,2004,34(1):65-68.
[23]Ohguchi K,Tanaka T,Ito T,et al.Inhibitory Effects of Resveratrol Derivatives from Dipterocarpaceae Plants on Tyrosinase Activity[J].Bioscience Biotechnology&Biochemistry,2003,67(7):1587-1589.
[24]Shimizu K,Yasutake S,Kondo R.A new stilbene with tyrosinase inhibitory activity from Chlorophora excelsa.[J].Chemical&Pharmaceutical Bulletin,2003,51(3):318-319.
[25]Ohguchi K,Tanaka T,Iliya I,et al.Gnetol as a potent tyrosinase inhibitor from genus Gnetum.[J].Bioscience Biotechnology&Biochemistry,2003,67(3):663-665.
[26]宋康康.抑制剂对酪氨酸酶的效应及其对黑色素生成调控的研究[D].厦门:厦门大学,2007.
[27]胡君姣,李琼,李想,等.祛斑化妆品研究进展及其功效评价[J].香料香精化妆品,2013(6):59-63.
[28]Rietjens I M,Boersma M G,Ld H,et al.The pro-oxidant chemistry of the natural antioxidants vitamin C,vitamin E,carotenoids and flavonoids[J].Environ Toxicol Pharmacol,2002,11(3):321-333.
[29]Son K H,Heo M Y.The evaluation of depigmenting efficacy in the skin for the development of new whitening agents in Korea.[J].International Journal of Cosmetic Science,2013,35(1):9-18.
[30]张建友,方艳燕,吴晓琴,等.天然活性美白化妆品研究现状及发展前景[J].精细化工,2008,25(1):72-76.
[31]Boissy R E,Marty V,Delong M A.Deoxy Arbutin:a novel reversible tyrosinase inhibitor with effective in vivo skin lightening potency.[J].Experimental Dermatology,2010,14(8):601-608.
[32]康琰琰,张美英,邢少璟,等.几种天然活性物对黑色素细胞毒性及美白功效的比较[J].日用化学工业,2005,35(6):361-363.
[33]陶丽莉,刘洋,吴金昊,等.化妆品美白功效评价方法研究进展[J].日用化学品科学,2015,38(3):15-21.
[34]Liang C H,Tzunghan C,Ding H Y.Inhibition of melanogensis by a novel origanoside from Origanum vulgare[J].Journal of Dermatological Science,2010,57(3):170-177.