植物药妆品的开发利用现状与进展
|
摘要
本文介绍了药妆品的概念,综述了药妆品中植物源活性成分及其提取、分离和纯化、植物药妆品生产工艺研究、植物药妆品的安全性和功效性评价等,并展望了植物药妆品的应用前景。
This paper introduces the concept of cosmeceuticals,botanical active ingredients in cosmeceuticals and its extraction,separation and purification. Meantime,the research of production process,safety and efficacy evaluation of herbal cosmetics as well as its potential application are also reviewed.
This paper introduces the concept of cosmeceuticals,botanical active ingredients in cosmeceuticals and its extraction,separation and purification. Meantime,the research of production process,safety and efficacy evaluation of herbal cosmetics as well as its potential application are also reviewed.
引文
[1]MILLIKAN L E.Cosmetology,cosmeceuticals:definitions and regulations[J].Clin Dermatol,2001,19(4):371-374.
[2]REED R.The definition of“cosmeceuticals”[J].J Soc Cosmet Chem,1962,13(2):103-106.
[3]CHOI C M,BERSON D S.Cosmeceuticals[J].Seminars in Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery,2006(25):163-168.
[4]KLIGMAN A.Cosmeceuticals as s third category[J].Cosmet Toilet,1998,113(2):33-40.
[5]王建新.化妆品植物原料手册[M].北京:化学工业出版社,2009:65-66.
[6]周玥,杨斌,姜蓉,等.人参皂苷Rg1延缓造血干细胞衰老及其相关机制[J].中华医学杂志,2012,90(48):3421-3425.
[7]王曦.黄芪甲苷对人皱纹与非皱纹皮肤成纤维细胞生物学特性的影响[D].成都:四川大学,2005.
[8]李建志,刘文丽,王亚贤.9种中草药抗菌作用研究[J].中医药学报,2012,40(1):45-46.
[9]李仲兴,王秀华,赵建宏,等.用新方法检测黄芩对280株临床菌株的体外抗菌效果观察[J].中国中医药信息杂志,2000,7(9):26-28.
[10]SAEWAN N,KOYSOMBOON N,CHANTRAPROMMA K.Anti-tyrosinase and anti-cancer activities of flavonoids from Blumea balsamifera DC[J].J Med Plan Res,2011,5(6):1018-1025.
[11]李红艳,刘艳杰,王倩,等.红花中酪氨酸酶抑制成分的快速筛选和分析[J].现代药物与临床,2013,28(2):170-174.
[12]何红梅,朱红霞,刘强,等.何首乌提取物对C57BL/6J小鼠毛囊生长和毛发生长周期的影响[J].中国实验方剂学杂志,2012,18(23):216-219.
[13]刘莉,陈育尧,张璐,等.人参提取物对C57小鼠生发作用的影响[J].中国实验方剂学杂志,2013,19(7):250-253.
[14]肖蕾,胡松青,李琳.中药有效成分提取分离技术研究进展[J].中药材,2002,11(25):826-82.
[15]尹永芹,沈志滨.中药化学成分提取分离方法的研究进展[J].中国药业,2012,21(2):19-21.
[16]周昊,彭国平.丹参的传统提取工艺与超临界CO2萃取-大孔树脂联用工艺的比较研究[J].中华中医药学刊,2007,25(4):736-738.
[17]董银卯,郑彦云,马中华.本草药妆品[M].北京:化学工业出版社,2010:60-63.
[18]陈志蓉,邳楠,何聪芬,等.仙人掌粉水提工艺优化[J].香精香料化妆品,2010(4):33-36.
[19]刘振丽,张秋海,欧兴长,等.超滤及醇沉对金银花中绿原酸的影响[J].中成药,1996,18(2):4-6.
[20]张婉萍.化妆品领域的市场、安全性和新技术发展趋势[J].香精香料化妆品,2012(6):45-48.
[21]孙洪涛,董建军,阚红玲,等.化妆品生产的质量控制[J].食品与药品,2005,7(4):63-64.
[22]孟宏.君臣佐使谴方的植物化妆品原则[C]//中华中医药学会·中华中医药学会中医美容分会2008年学术年会论文集.北京:中医美容,2008:42-43.
[23]孙凤娇,廖克俭,丛玉凤,等.黄芩苷防晒霜制备工艺的研究[J].日用化学工业,2009,39(4):257-259
[24]胡云年,正交法优选O/W型乳膏基质维生素E霜制备工艺[J].中国药业,2005,14(4):57-68.
[25]EPSTEIN H.Cosmeceutieals and polyphenols[J].Clin Dermatol,2009,27(5):475-478.
[26]熊习昆.3T3中性红摄取试验方法在皮肤光毒性效应中的应用研究[D].广州:中山大学,2005.
[27]INBRAJ J J,KUKIELCZALC B M,CHIGNELL C F.Phloxine B phototoxicity:a mechanistic study using HaCaT keratinocytes[J].Photochem Photobiol,2005,81(1):81-88.
[28]SKOLD M,BORJE A,HARAMBASIC E,et al.Contact allergens formed on air exposure of linalool.Identification and quantification of primary and secondary oxidation pmducts and the effect on skin sensitization[J].Chem Res Toxicol,2004,17(12):1697-1705.
[29]DUVAL C,SCHMIDT R,REGNIER M,et al.The use of reconstructed human skin to evaluate UV-induced modifications and sunscreen efficacy[J].Exp Dermatol,2003,(2):64-70.
[30]杨征,陈雅.伊柔美白霜的保湿性能评价[J].中国药业,2007,16(3):7.
[31]兰海龙,王正辉,杨壮群,等.芦荟苦素对黑素细胞与角质形成细胞混合培养模型中黑素合成的影响[J].中国美容医学,2007,16(3):310-313.
[32]张瑞瑞,徐学涛,颜秋萍,等.西藏红缨合耳菊中药美白霜的美白功效评价[J].光谱实验室,2012,29(3):1308-1310.
[2]REED R.The definition of“cosmeceuticals”[J].J Soc Cosmet Chem,1962,13(2):103-106.
[3]CHOI C M,BERSON D S.Cosmeceuticals[J].Seminars in Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery,2006(25):163-168.
[4]KLIGMAN A.Cosmeceuticals as s third category[J].Cosmet Toilet,1998,113(2):33-40.
[5]王建新.化妆品植物原料手册[M].北京:化学工业出版社,2009:65-66.
[6]周玥,杨斌,姜蓉,等.人参皂苷Rg1延缓造血干细胞衰老及其相关机制[J].中华医学杂志,2012,90(48):3421-3425.
[7]王曦.黄芪甲苷对人皱纹与非皱纹皮肤成纤维细胞生物学特性的影响[D].成都:四川大学,2005.
[8]李建志,刘文丽,王亚贤.9种中草药抗菌作用研究[J].中医药学报,2012,40(1):45-46.
[9]李仲兴,王秀华,赵建宏,等.用新方法检测黄芩对280株临床菌株的体外抗菌效果观察[J].中国中医药信息杂志,2000,7(9):26-28.
[10]SAEWAN N,KOYSOMBOON N,CHANTRAPROMMA K.Anti-tyrosinase and anti-cancer activities of flavonoids from Blumea balsamifera DC[J].J Med Plan Res,2011,5(6):1018-1025.
[11]李红艳,刘艳杰,王倩,等.红花中酪氨酸酶抑制成分的快速筛选和分析[J].现代药物与临床,2013,28(2):170-174.
[12]何红梅,朱红霞,刘强,等.何首乌提取物对C57BL/6J小鼠毛囊生长和毛发生长周期的影响[J].中国实验方剂学杂志,2012,18(23):216-219.
[13]刘莉,陈育尧,张璐,等.人参提取物对C57小鼠生发作用的影响[J].中国实验方剂学杂志,2013,19(7):250-253.
[14]肖蕾,胡松青,李琳.中药有效成分提取分离技术研究进展[J].中药材,2002,11(25):826-82.
[15]尹永芹,沈志滨.中药化学成分提取分离方法的研究进展[J].中国药业,2012,21(2):19-21.
[16]周昊,彭国平.丹参的传统提取工艺与超临界CO2萃取-大孔树脂联用工艺的比较研究[J].中华中医药学刊,2007,25(4):736-738.
[17]董银卯,郑彦云,马中华.本草药妆品[M].北京:化学工业出版社,2010:60-63.
[18]陈志蓉,邳楠,何聪芬,等.仙人掌粉水提工艺优化[J].香精香料化妆品,2010(4):33-36.
[19]刘振丽,张秋海,欧兴长,等.超滤及醇沉对金银花中绿原酸的影响[J].中成药,1996,18(2):4-6.
[20]张婉萍.化妆品领域的市场、安全性和新技术发展趋势[J].香精香料化妆品,2012(6):45-48.
[21]孙洪涛,董建军,阚红玲,等.化妆品生产的质量控制[J].食品与药品,2005,7(4):63-64.
[22]孟宏.君臣佐使谴方的植物化妆品原则[C]//中华中医药学会·中华中医药学会中医美容分会2008年学术年会论文集.北京:中医美容,2008:42-43.
[23]孙凤娇,廖克俭,丛玉凤,等.黄芩苷防晒霜制备工艺的研究[J].日用化学工业,2009,39(4):257-259
[24]胡云年,正交法优选O/W型乳膏基质维生素E霜制备工艺[J].中国药业,2005,14(4):57-68.
[25]EPSTEIN H.Cosmeceutieals and polyphenols[J].Clin Dermatol,2009,27(5):475-478.
[26]熊习昆.3T3中性红摄取试验方法在皮肤光毒性效应中的应用研究[D].广州:中山大学,2005.
[27]INBRAJ J J,KUKIELCZALC B M,CHIGNELL C F.Phloxine B phototoxicity:a mechanistic study using HaCaT keratinocytes[J].Photochem Photobiol,2005,81(1):81-88.
[28]SKOLD M,BORJE A,HARAMBASIC E,et al.Contact allergens formed on air exposure of linalool.Identification and quantification of primary and secondary oxidation pmducts and the effect on skin sensitization[J].Chem Res Toxicol,2004,17(12):1697-1705.
[29]DUVAL C,SCHMIDT R,REGNIER M,et al.The use of reconstructed human skin to evaluate UV-induced modifications and sunscreen efficacy[J].Exp Dermatol,2003,(2):64-70.
[30]杨征,陈雅.伊柔美白霜的保湿性能评价[J].中国药业,2007,16(3):7.
[31]兰海龙,王正辉,杨壮群,等.芦荟苦素对黑素细胞与角质形成细胞混合培养模型中黑素合成的影响[J].中国美容医学,2007,16(3):310-313.
[32]张瑞瑞,徐学涛,颜秋萍,等.西藏红缨合耳菊中药美白霜的美白功效评价[J].光谱实验室,2012,29(3):1308-1310.