《论语》中的纺织服饰考辨
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摘要
《论语》蕴含着丰富的纺织服饰信息,但纺织服饰史学界很多解释出于礼仪角度来审视,对于技术和纺织服饰文化的角度的检审相当缺乏,导致一些错误的解释盛行。通过文献研究和结合相关的纺织服饰考古,研究认为:《论语·八佾篇》"绘事后素"中"素"乃后素、绘通绣;《论语·公冶长篇》中"束带立于朝"是束大带立于朝,示官宦。同时裘非华夏乃至汉族的鄙夷之物,而是其推崇之物,皆因未对"旃裘"作出正确的解读。黼冕、缊袍分别代指帝王、贫却不困之士的礼服;《论语·雍也篇》中"质"与"文"分别指代衣物上的地组织和花组织,不宜做过多的引申;《论语·子罕篇》中麻冕用工、用时多于丝冕,皆因古人对冕的织物密度的三十升布标准要求所致。此外,纺织度量与中国丧服礼制有着密切关系;君子穿衣搭配都有一定之规,无一不体现中国古代颜色观、礼制,但又不失其家居性。
The Analects of Confucius contains abundant information on textiles and costumes. The explanations made in the circle of historical science of textiles and costumes were out of politeness in most cases,and reviews from the angle of technology and textile and costume culture were seldom made. Thus,misinterpretations prevail. Based on literature research and the related archaeology of textiles and costumes,it is found in this study that the"su"of"hui shi hou su"in Ba Yi of the Analects of Confucius referred to "hou su" and "hui"was equivalent to embroidery; "a man in belt standing in royal court"in Gong Ye Chang of the Analects of Confucius was a high-ranking eunuch in decent belt; Qiu( fur coat) never was inferior goods in Huaxia and even the Han nationality,but fancy goods,which has been being misunderstood; "Fu Mian"and "Yun Pao"referred to emperors and poor scholars respectively;"Zhi"and"Wen"in Yong Ye of the Analects of Confucius referred to ground texture and pattern texture of clothing respectively,and it is inappropriate to make extension too much; according to Zi Han of the Analects of Confucius,the labor and time spent on making hemp crowns were mainly consumed by silk crowns making,because the fabric count of crowns was required to reach 30 "shengs"in ancient times; besides,textile measurement is closely related to Chinese mourning apparel etiquette; decent people followed certain rules in dressing,which all reflect the views on color and etiquette in ancient China,without prejudice to the leisure style.
The Analects of Confucius contains abundant information on textiles and costumes. The explanations made in the circle of historical science of textiles and costumes were out of politeness in most cases,and reviews from the angle of technology and textile and costume culture were seldom made. Thus,misinterpretations prevail. Based on literature research and the related archaeology of textiles and costumes,it is found in this study that the"su"of"hui shi hou su"in Ba Yi of the Analects of Confucius referred to "hou su" and "hui"was equivalent to embroidery; "a man in belt standing in royal court"in Gong Ye Chang of the Analects of Confucius was a high-ranking eunuch in decent belt; Qiu( fur coat) never was inferior goods in Huaxia and even the Han nationality,but fancy goods,which has been being misunderstood; "Fu Mian"and "Yun Pao"referred to emperors and poor scholars respectively;"Zhi"and"Wen"in Yong Ye of the Analects of Confucius referred to ground texture and pattern texture of clothing respectively,and it is inappropriate to make extension too much; according to Zi Han of the Analects of Confucius,the labor and time spent on making hemp crowns were mainly consumed by silk crowns making,because the fabric count of crowns was required to reach 30 "shengs"in ancient times; besides,textile measurement is closely related to Chinese mourning apparel etiquette; decent people followed certain rules in dressing,which all reflect the views on color and etiquette in ancient China,without prejudice to the leisure style.
引文
[1]温梦.论语通译[M].北京:光明日报出版社,2009:17.WEN Meng.Translation of the Analects of Confucius[M].Beijing:Guangming Daily Press,2009:17.
[2]曹振宇,曹秋玲,王业宏,等.中国纺织科技史[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2012:39.CAO Zhenyu,CAO Qiuling,WANG Yehong,et al.History of Textile Science and Technology in China[M].Shanghai:Donghua University Press,2012:39.
[3]赵翰生.《考工记》“设色之工”研究的回顾与思考[J].服饰导刊,2017,6(3):4-13.ZHAO Hansheng.Retrospection and reflection on the study of the work of setting colors in Records of Manufacturing[J].Fashion Guide,2017,6(3):4-13.
[4]许慎.说文解字4[M].段玉裁,注.北京:中国戏剧出版社,2013:1795,1812,1850.XU Shen.Shuo Wen Jie Zi 4[M].DUAN Yucai note.Beijing:China Theatre Press,2013:1795,1812,1850.
[5]金波,秦侠.论语[M].上海:上海科学技术文献出版社,2006:93.JIN Bo,QIN Xia.Analects[M].Shanghai:Shanghai Scientific and Technological Literature Press,2006:93.
[6]李芽.中国古代男子朝服中的腰饰[J].服饰导刊,2016,5(4):8-14.LI Ya.Study on men’s waist ornament in ancient China[J].Fashion Guide,2016,5(4):8-14.
[7]史游.急就篇[M].杨月英,注.北京:中华书局,2014:80.SHI You.Emergency Article for Child Literacy[M].YANGYueying note.Beijing:Zhonghua Book Company,2014:80.
[8]孙诒让.周礼正义一[M].北京:中华书局,2013:491-496.SUN Yirang.Comments on Zhou Li 1[M].Beijing:Zhonghua Book Company,2013:491-496.
[9]李然,杨焄.二十四孝图说[M].上海:上海大学出版社,2006:38.LI Ran,YANG Xun.Illustration of the Twenty-Four Filial Exemplars[M].Shanghai:Shanghai University Press,2006:38.
[10]许慎.说文解字2[M].段玉裁,注.北京:中国戏剧出版社,2013:784.XU Shen.Shuo Wen Jie Zi 2[M].DUAN Yucai note.Beijing:China Theatre Press,2013:784.
[11]许慎.说文解字3[M].段玉裁,注.北京:中国戏剧出版社,2013:1184.XU Shen.Shuo Wen Jie Zi 3[M].DUAN Yucai note.Beijing:China Theatre Press,2013:1184.
[12]李强,李斌,李建强.基于曶鼎铭文“匹马束丝”的纺织度量考辨[J].丝绸,2015,52(4):58-62.LI Qiang,LI Bin,LI Jianqiang.Study on measurement of textile based on inscriptions of Hu Ding[J].Journal of Silk,2015,52(4):58-62.
[13]李强,杨锋,李斌.基于中国古代纺织服饰史研究的孝文化考辨[J].湖北工程学院学报,2015,35(4):26-30.LI Qiang,YANG Feng,LI Bin.A textual research on filial piety culture based on the study of the history of textile and clothing in ancient China[J].Journal of Hubei Engineering University,2015,35(4):26-30.
[14]李强,李斌,杨小明.中国古代手摇纺车的历史变迁:基于刘仙洲先生《手摇纺车图》的考证[J].丝绸,2011,48(10):41-46.LI Qiang,LI Bin,YANG Xiaoming.Study on the changes of hand spinning wheel in Ancient China:based on a copy of the mural painting collected by Liu Xianzhou[J].Journal of Silk,2011,48(10):41-46.
[2]曹振宇,曹秋玲,王业宏,等.中国纺织科技史[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2012:39.CAO Zhenyu,CAO Qiuling,WANG Yehong,et al.History of Textile Science and Technology in China[M].Shanghai:Donghua University Press,2012:39.
[3]赵翰生.《考工记》“设色之工”研究的回顾与思考[J].服饰导刊,2017,6(3):4-13.ZHAO Hansheng.Retrospection and reflection on the study of the work of setting colors in Records of Manufacturing[J].Fashion Guide,2017,6(3):4-13.
[4]许慎.说文解字4[M].段玉裁,注.北京:中国戏剧出版社,2013:1795,1812,1850.XU Shen.Shuo Wen Jie Zi 4[M].DUAN Yucai note.Beijing:China Theatre Press,2013:1795,1812,1850.
[5]金波,秦侠.论语[M].上海:上海科学技术文献出版社,2006:93.JIN Bo,QIN Xia.Analects[M].Shanghai:Shanghai Scientific and Technological Literature Press,2006:93.
[6]李芽.中国古代男子朝服中的腰饰[J].服饰导刊,2016,5(4):8-14.LI Ya.Study on men’s waist ornament in ancient China[J].Fashion Guide,2016,5(4):8-14.
[7]史游.急就篇[M].杨月英,注.北京:中华书局,2014:80.SHI You.Emergency Article for Child Literacy[M].YANGYueying note.Beijing:Zhonghua Book Company,2014:80.
[8]孙诒让.周礼正义一[M].北京:中华书局,2013:491-496.SUN Yirang.Comments on Zhou Li 1[M].Beijing:Zhonghua Book Company,2013:491-496.
[9]李然,杨焄.二十四孝图说[M].上海:上海大学出版社,2006:38.LI Ran,YANG Xun.Illustration of the Twenty-Four Filial Exemplars[M].Shanghai:Shanghai University Press,2006:38.
[10]许慎.说文解字2[M].段玉裁,注.北京:中国戏剧出版社,2013:784.XU Shen.Shuo Wen Jie Zi 2[M].DUAN Yucai note.Beijing:China Theatre Press,2013:784.
[11]许慎.说文解字3[M].段玉裁,注.北京:中国戏剧出版社,2013:1184.XU Shen.Shuo Wen Jie Zi 3[M].DUAN Yucai note.Beijing:China Theatre Press,2013:1184.
[12]李强,李斌,李建强.基于曶鼎铭文“匹马束丝”的纺织度量考辨[J].丝绸,2015,52(4):58-62.LI Qiang,LI Bin,LI Jianqiang.Study on measurement of textile based on inscriptions of Hu Ding[J].Journal of Silk,2015,52(4):58-62.
[13]李强,杨锋,李斌.基于中国古代纺织服饰史研究的孝文化考辨[J].湖北工程学院学报,2015,35(4):26-30.LI Qiang,YANG Feng,LI Bin.A textual research on filial piety culture based on the study of the history of textile and clothing in ancient China[J].Journal of Hubei Engineering University,2015,35(4):26-30.
[14]李强,李斌,杨小明.中国古代手摇纺车的历史变迁:基于刘仙洲先生《手摇纺车图》的考证[J].丝绸,2011,48(10):41-46.LI Qiang,LI Bin,YANG Xiaoming.Study on the changes of hand spinning wheel in Ancient China:based on a copy of the mural painting collected by Liu Xianzhou[J].Journal of Silk,2011,48(10):41-46.