高效液相色谱-质谱联用技术鉴别清代小龙袍染料
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摘要
采用高效液相色谱-质谱联用技术对清代小龙袍进行染料检测。通过获得每种染料萃取物中各种色素成分的紫外吸收光谱图和多级质谱图,与已知染料标准品或相关的文献报道进行比对,成功鉴别出红花、黄檗、靛青、苏木、槐米和黄栌6种植物染料。黄檗套染红花可以得到红色,黄栌和槐米用来染黄色,靛青染各种蓝色,苏木与靛青套染得到天青色,槐米和黄檗同靛青套染分别得到两种绿色。文章的染料鉴别结果为清代宫廷色彩的复原提供了真实可靠的染料品种信息,同时,有助于文物保护工作者对该类纺织品文物采取科学合理的保存和展示方案。
Dye detection of small dragon robe in the Qing dynasty was conducted with high performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS). Six dyes were identified by comparing the UV-Vis spectrum and MSnspectra of pigment compositions in each dye extract with known standard dye substances or relevant literature reports,including safflower,Amur cork,indigo,sappan wood,buds of pagoda tree and young fustic. Safflower and Amur cork were used to dye red,buds of pagoda tree and young fustic were applied to dye yellow,all shades of blues were dyed with indigo,sappan wood and indigo produced light purple,buds of pagoda tree and young fustic with indigo produced two greens respectively. The results of dye analysis provide true and credible information about dye species for recovery of court colors in the Qing dynasty,and also help archaeological conservators take a scientific and reasonable program to preserve and exhibit historical textiles.
Dye detection of small dragon robe in the Qing dynasty was conducted with high performance liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS). Six dyes were identified by comparing the UV-Vis spectrum and MSnspectra of pigment compositions in each dye extract with known standard dye substances or relevant literature reports,including safflower,Amur cork,indigo,sappan wood,buds of pagoda tree and young fustic. Safflower and Amur cork were used to dye red,buds of pagoda tree and young fustic were applied to dye yellow,all shades of blues were dyed with indigo,sappan wood and indigo produced light purple,buds of pagoda tree and young fustic with indigo produced two greens respectively. The results of dye analysis provide true and credible information about dye species for recovery of court colors in the Qing dynasty,and also help archaeological conservators take a scientific and reasonable program to preserve and exhibit historical textiles.
引文
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[11]杨建军.染料红花古名辨析兼及番红花名称考[J].丝绸,2017,54(2):73-81.YANG Jianjun.Discrimination of the ancient dye name of safflower and saffron name research[J].Journal of Silk,2017,54(2):73-81.
[12]QU Jing,HU Youcai,WANG Yinghong,et al.Structural characterization of constituents with molecular diversity in fractions from Lysidice brevicalyx by liquid chromatography/diode-array detection/electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry and liquid chromatography/nuclear magnetic resonance[J].Rapid Communication in Mass Spectrometry,2008,22(6):755-765.
[13]VALIANOU Lemonia,STATHOPOULOU Konstantina,KARAPANAGIOTIS Ioannis,et al.Phytochemical analysis of young fustic(Cotinus coggygria heartwood)and identification of isolated colourants in historical textiles[J].Analytical and Bioanalytical Chemistry,2009,394:871-882.
[14]王业宏,刘剑,童永纪.清代织染局染色方法及色彩[J].历史档案,2011(2):125-127.WANG Yehong,LIU Jian,TONG Yongji.Dyeing methods and related colors used in Qing dynasty dyeing workshops[J].Historical Archives,2011(2):125-127.
[15]刘剑,王业宏,郭丹华.传统靛青染料的生产工艺[J].丝绸,2009(11):42-43,50.LIU Jian,WANG Yehong,GUO Danhua.The processing technique of traditional indigo dyes[J].Journal of Silk,2009(11):42-43,50.
[16]MANHITA Ana,SANTOS Vanda,VARGAS Helena,et al.Ageing of brazilwod dye in wool-a chromatographic and spectrometric study[J].Journal of Cultural Heritage,2013,14(6):471-479.
[2]WOUTERS Jan.High performance liquid chromatography of anthraquinones:analysis of plant and insect extracts and dyed textiles[J].Studies in Conservation,1985,30(3):119-128.
[3]上海市纺织科学研究院,上海市丝绸工业公司文物研究组.长沙马王堆一号汉墓出土纺织品的研究[M].北京:文物出版社,1980:97-100.The Archaeological Research Group of the Shanghai Textile Research Institut,The Shanghai Silk Industry Corporation.AStudy of the Textile Fabrics Unearthed from Han Tomb No.1at Ma-Wang-Tui in Changsha[M].Beijing:Culture Relics Press,1980:97-100.
[4]NAKAMURA Rikiya,TANAKA Yoko,OGATA Atsuhiko,et al.Dye analysis of Shosoin textiles using excitation-emission matrix fluorescence and ultraviolet-visible reflectance spectroscopic techniques[J].Analytical Chemistry,2009,81(14):5691-5698.
[5]POZZI Federica,LEONA Marco.Surface-enhanced Raman spectroscopy in art and archaeology[J].Journal of Raman Spectroscopy,2016,47(1):67-77.
[6]DEROO Cathy Selvius,ARMITAGE Ruth Ann.Direct identification of dyes in textiles by direct analysis in real time-time of flight mass spectrometry[J].Analytical Chemistry,2011,83(18):6924-6928.
[7]ZHANG Xian,BOYTNER Ran,CABRERA Jos Luis,et al.Identification of yellow dye type in pre-columbian andean textiles[J].Analytical Chemistry,2007,79(4):1575-1582.
[8]LIU Jian,ZHOU Yang,ZHAO Feng,et al.Identification of early synthetic dyes in historical Chinese textiles of late nineteenth century by high-high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with diode array detection and mass spectrometry[J].Coloration Technology,2016,132(2):177-185.
[9]WOUTERS Jan,GRZYWACZ Cecily,CLARO Ana.Markers for identification of faded safflower(Carthamus tinctorius L.)colorants by HPLC-PDA-MS[J].Studies in Conservation,2010,55(3):186-203.
[10]赵丰.红花在古代中国的传播,栽培和应用:中国古代染料植物研究之一[J].中国农史,1987(3):61-71.ZHAO Feng.The propagation,cultivation and application of safflower in ancient China:one of the studies on vegetable dyes in antiquity[J].Agricultural History of China,1987(3):61-71.
[11]杨建军.染料红花古名辨析兼及番红花名称考[J].丝绸,2017,54(2):73-81.YANG Jianjun.Discrimination of the ancient dye name of safflower and saffron name research[J].Journal of Silk,2017,54(2):73-81.
[12]QU Jing,HU Youcai,WANG Yinghong,et al.Structural characterization of constituents with molecular diversity in fractions from Lysidice brevicalyx by liquid chromatography/diode-array detection/electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry and liquid chromatography/nuclear magnetic resonance[J].Rapid Communication in Mass Spectrometry,2008,22(6):755-765.
[13]VALIANOU Lemonia,STATHOPOULOU Konstantina,KARAPANAGIOTIS Ioannis,et al.Phytochemical analysis of young fustic(Cotinus coggygria heartwood)and identification of isolated colourants in historical textiles[J].Analytical and Bioanalytical Chemistry,2009,394:871-882.
[14]王业宏,刘剑,童永纪.清代织染局染色方法及色彩[J].历史档案,2011(2):125-127.WANG Yehong,LIU Jian,TONG Yongji.Dyeing methods and related colors used in Qing dynasty dyeing workshops[J].Historical Archives,2011(2):125-127.
[15]刘剑,王业宏,郭丹华.传统靛青染料的生产工艺[J].丝绸,2009(11):42-43,50.LIU Jian,WANG Yehong,GUO Danhua.The processing technique of traditional indigo dyes[J].Journal of Silk,2009(11):42-43,50.
[16]MANHITA Ana,SANTOS Vanda,VARGAS Helena,et al.Ageing of brazilwod dye in wool-a chromatographic and spectrometric study[J].Journal of Cultural Heritage,2013,14(6):471-479.