鲜茧丝织物和干茧丝织物染色后性能研究
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摘要
为探究鲜茧丝织物和干茧丝织物染色后性能的差异,选用同一庄口的鲜茧丝和干茧丝为实验原料,在同种工艺条件下分别织造和染色。并对染色后鲜茧丝织物和干茧丝织物的K/S值、耐皂洗色牢度、耐摩擦色牢度、折皱回复性、透气透湿性等进行测试与分析。结果表明,两种织物的K/S值、染色牢度基本一致;经同种工艺染色后,鲜茧丝织物的悬垂性、柔软性、拉伸性能、透气透湿性略优于干茧丝织物,织物硬挺度、抗皱性略差于干茧丝织物。
To study the difference in properties between fresh cocoon silk fabrics and dried cocoon silk fabric after dyeing, we selected the fresh cocoons silk and dried cocoon silk from the same origin as experimental materials, and 2 groups of fabric samples were woven and dyed respectively under the same conditions. The K/S value, soaping color fastness, friction color fastness, wrinkle recovery, air permeability and moisture permeability of fresh cocoon silk fabrics and dried cocoon silk fabric after dyeing were tested and analyzed. The results show that the K/S value and color fastness of the two kinds of fabrics were basically same. After dyeing with the same process, the draping, softness, tensile property and permeability of fresh cocoon silk fabric were slightly better than those of dried cocoon silk fabric, while the fabric stiffness and crease resistance were slightly worse than those of the dried cocoon silk fabric.
To study the difference in properties between fresh cocoon silk fabrics and dried cocoon silk fabric after dyeing, we selected the fresh cocoons silk and dried cocoon silk from the same origin as experimental materials, and 2 groups of fabric samples were woven and dyed respectively under the same conditions. The K/S value, soaping color fastness, friction color fastness, wrinkle recovery, air permeability and moisture permeability of fresh cocoon silk fabrics and dried cocoon silk fabric after dyeing were tested and analyzed. The results show that the K/S value and color fastness of the two kinds of fabrics were basically same. After dyeing with the same process, the draping, softness, tensile property and permeability of fresh cocoon silk fabric were slightly better than those of dried cocoon silk fabric, while the fabric stiffness and crease resistance were slightly worse than those of the dried cocoon silk fabric.
引文
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[2] 张国兵.鲜茧直接缫丝工艺的研究与探讨[J].轻纺工业与技术,2011(4):7-8.
[3] 陆春霞,廖森泰,祁广军,等.鲜茧缫丝蚕蛹的食用开发现状及应用前景分析[J].蚕业科学,2015(4):760-763.
[4] 桂仲争.蚕蛹资源的开发利用研究[J].蚕业科学,2017(4):537-545.
[5] 吕超目,顾晨,叶飞,等.鲜茧煮茧对提高鲜茧丝抱合性能的试验研究[J].中国纤检,2015(Z1):125-127.
[6] 黄继伟,洪基武,林海涛,等.鲜茧缫生丝与干茧缫生丝的性能对比[J].丝绸,2013(11):28-32.
[7] 章琪超,江文斌,傅雅琴.鲜茧生丝与干茧生丝的结构性能差异研究[J].现代纺织技术,2015(1):1-5.
[8] 吕超目.浸泡工艺对鲜茧丝品质的影响[D].杭州:浙江理工大学,2017.
[9] 陈树明,杨小芳.积极探讨鲜茧缫丝的系列配套技术[J].四川蚕业,2002(1):44-45.
[10] 杨莹莹,寿霜霜,欧阳微微,等.鲜茧丝与干茧丝织物性能研究[J].丝绸,2017(9):1-6.
[11] 朱忠强.鲜茧丝与干茧丝在梭织纬线上的使用比较[J].丝绸,2014(4):15-17.
[12] 王聪磊.鲜茧生丝的微量组分及焙烘影响初探[D].杭州:浙江理工大学,2017.
[13] 刘慧.改善缫丝工艺提高鲜茧生丝抱合稳定性的研究[D].杭州:浙江理工大学,2016.
[14] 王亚.织物柔软性的表征与评价[D].无锡:江南大学,2008.
[15] 杨礼直,钱镇海,钱永年,等.鲜茧处理方法对茧丝品质的影响[J].江苏丝绸,2000(6):1-5.
[16] 孙浪涛.超低温冷冻处理对桑蚕丝结构及性能影响研究[D].西安:西安工程大学,2013.