云贵粤地区少数民族合裆裤的多元化构成
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摘要
合裆裤源于北方游牧民族,后流行于黄河流域南北各族,南方少数民族在继承传统合裆裤基本特征的同时,其形制特征发展不拘一格。文章以云南红河地区的彝族及哈尼族、贵州荔波地区的白裤瑶族、广东连南地区的瑶族传统合裆裤为主要研究对象,通过田野考察及文献研究,对其形制和结构进行分类归纳,研究表明:云贵粤地区的少数民族传统合裆裤具有多元化形制与结构特征,且不同少数民族传统合裆裤的裆部构成形式各异。文章根据所研究地区的少数民族传统合裆裤不同的裆部构成形式,将其少数民族传统合裆裤归纳为补裆结构、扭裆结构、立体拼裆结构三种。
The crotch pants originated from nomadic peoples in the north, and later became popular in the Yellow River basin. While inheriting the characteristics of the traditional crotch pants, the minorities in the south have developed freely. Based on the field investigation and literature study, this paper classified and summarized the shape and structure of traditional crotch pants of Yi and Hani ethnic groups in Honghe area of Yunnan province, the Baiku Yao ethnic group in Libo area of Guizhou province and the Yao ethnic group in Liannan area of Guangdong province. The results show that the traditional crotch pants of ethnic minorities in Yunnan, Guizhou and Guangdong have the characteristics of diversified shapes and structures, and the crotch structure forms of traditional crotch pants are diverse for different ethnic minorities. According to the different crotch forms of the traditional crotch pants in the study area, the traditional crotch pants can be divided into three types: patching crotch structure, twisting crotch structure, and three-dimensional crotch structure.
The crotch pants originated from nomadic peoples in the north, and later became popular in the Yellow River basin. While inheriting the characteristics of the traditional crotch pants, the minorities in the south have developed freely. Based on the field investigation and literature study, this paper classified and summarized the shape and structure of traditional crotch pants of Yi and Hani ethnic groups in Honghe area of Yunnan province, the Baiku Yao ethnic group in Libo area of Guizhou province and the Yao ethnic group in Liannan area of Guangdong province. The results show that the traditional crotch pants of ethnic minorities in Yunnan, Guizhou and Guangdong have the characteristics of diversified shapes and structures, and the crotch structure forms of traditional crotch pants are diverse for different ethnic minorities. According to the different crotch forms of the traditional crotch pants in the study area, the traditional crotch pants can be divided into three types: patching crotch structure, twisting crotch structure, and three-dimensional crotch structure.
引文
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[6]廖军, 许星. 黔东南荔波地区白裤瑶服饰艺术探析[J]. 丝绸, 2010(11): 39-42.LIAO Jun, XU Xing. Study on the costume art of Baiku Yao nationality in Libo area in the southeast of Guizhou province [J]. Journal of Silk, 2010(11): 39-42.
[7]王佳丽, 赵明. 哈尼族奕车人扭裆裤的结构研究[J]. 北京服装学院学报(自然科学版), 2010, 30(3): 24-30.WANG Jiali, ZHAO Ming. Structure study on twisting crotch pants of Hani Yiche [J]. Journal of Beijing Institute of Clothing Technology(Natural Science Edition), 2010, 30(3): 24-30.
[2]黎珂, 王睦, 李肖. 裤子、骑马与游牧:新疆吐鲁番洋海墓地出土有裆裤子研究[J]. 西域研究, 2015(2): 48-62.LI Ke, WANG Mu, LI Xiao. Trousers, horseback riding and mobility: study of the trousers with crotch unearthed from Yanghai cemetery[J]. The Western Regions Studies, 2015(2): 48-62.
[3]赵明. 直线裁剪与双重性结构:中国少数民族服装结构研究[J]. 装饰, 2012(1): 110-112.ZHAO Ming. Line cutting & double structure: a study of Chinese ethnic costume’s structure [J].ZHUANGSHI, 2012(1): 110-112.
[4]张俊杰, 赵明. 满族裤装造型结构研究[J]. 丝绸, 2014, 51(11): 38-42.ZHANG Junjie, ZHAO Ming. Study on modeling composition of Manchu trousers [J]. Journal of Silk, 2014, 51(11): 38-42.
[5]刘瑞璞, 何鑫. 中华民族服饰结构图考(少数民族编)[M]. 北京:中国纺织出版社, 2013: 84-93.LIU Ruipu, HE Xin. Structural Textual Research of Chinese Ethnic Costume (Minority)[M]. Beijing: China Textile & Apparel Press, 2013: 84-93.
[6]廖军, 许星. 黔东南荔波地区白裤瑶服饰艺术探析[J]. 丝绸, 2010(11): 39-42.LIAO Jun, XU Xing. Study on the costume art of Baiku Yao nationality in Libo area in the southeast of Guizhou province [J]. Journal of Silk, 2010(11): 39-42.
[7]王佳丽, 赵明. 哈尼族奕车人扭裆裤的结构研究[J]. 北京服装学院学报(自然科学版), 2010, 30(3): 24-30.WANG Jiali, ZHAO Ming. Structure study on twisting crotch pants of Hani Yiche [J]. Journal of Beijing Institute of Clothing Technology(Natural Science Edition), 2010, 30(3): 24-30.