同源与异构——扬州和苏州刺绣艺术特色之比较
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摘要
同属江苏的扬州和苏州自古就有着深厚的历史渊源,在地理文化、语言演变等背景上有着诸多相似之处,都是江南婉约文化的典型代表。尤其是两地刺绣曾属于同一流派,师承共同的针法及绣品种类,常被混为一谈,亟需对其异同进行解构。文章运用动态分析和静态比较相结合的方法,将扬苏两地刺绣置于历史演进过程中,探究其各自风格、题材、针法及表现方法的特点,分析各自发展轨迹的差异,并透过表象剖析其地域、经济、文人情愫之不同及根源,这对研究江苏刺绣不同流派的地域特色及其他"非遗"项目甄别保护具有一定借鉴意义。
Yangzhou and Suzhou,belonging to Jiangsu,have a profound historical origin since ancient times,and have many similarities in the context of geography, culture, and language evolution. They both are typical representatives of Jiangnan graceful culture. In particular,Yangzhou embroidery and Suzhou embroidery once belonged to the same genre,were of the succession of common needlework and varieties,and are often confused. It is necessary to analyze the similarities and differences between them. This study,by combining dynamic analysis with static comparison and putting Yangzhou embroidery and Suzhou embroidery in the historical evolution process,explores the characteristics of their respective style,theme,needlework,and performance method,and analyzes the differences in their respective development trajectories and the differences and origin of region,economy,literati feelings. This is of certain reference significance to studying geographical characteristics of various schools of embroidery in Jiangsu and discrimination and protection of other "non-legacy" projects.
Yangzhou and Suzhou,belonging to Jiangsu,have a profound historical origin since ancient times,and have many similarities in the context of geography, culture, and language evolution. They both are typical representatives of Jiangnan graceful culture. In particular,Yangzhou embroidery and Suzhou embroidery once belonged to the same genre,were of the succession of common needlework and varieties,and are often confused. It is necessary to analyze the similarities and differences between them. This study,by combining dynamic analysis with static comparison and putting Yangzhou embroidery and Suzhou embroidery in the historical evolution process,explores the characteristics of their respective style,theme,needlework,and performance method,and analyzes the differences in their respective development trajectories and the differences and origin of region,economy,literati feelings. This is of certain reference significance to studying geographical characteristics of various schools of embroidery in Jiangsu and discrimination and protection of other "non-legacy" projects.
引文
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[2]加佳,张竞琼.近代女袄中的苏绣针法与配色探析[J].丝绸,2014,51(3):48-53.JIA Jia,ZHANG Jingqiong.Analysis on stitch method and match colors of Suzhou embroidery in modern female jacket[J].Journal of Silk,2014,51(3):48-53.
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[6]贺万里.扬州美术史话[M].扬州:扬州广陵书社,2014:83.HE Wanli.History of Yangzhou Fine Art[M].Yangzhou:Guangling Press,2014:83.
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[9]李頔,张竞琼,李向军.苏绣中的服饰品绣与画绣主要针法研究[J].丝绸,2012,49(6):50-54.LI Di,ZHANG Jingqiong,LI Xiangjun.Research on main stitches of painting embroidery and embroidered costume in Soochow embroidery[J].Journal of Silk,2012,49(6):50-54.
[10]王章涛,韦明铧,田汉云,等.落日辉煌话扬州[Z].扬州:扬州市档案局,扬州市地方志办公室,2000:238.WANG Zhangtao,WEI Minghua,TIAN Hanyun,et al.The glorious sunsets Yangzhou[Z].Yangzhou:Yangzhou Municipal Archives Bureau,Yangzhou Local Records Office,2000:238.
[11]李涵秋.广陵潮[M].南京:凤凰出版社,2014:895.LI Hanqiu.The Guangling Tide[M].Nanjin:Phoenix Press,2014:895.
[2]加佳,张竞琼.近代女袄中的苏绣针法与配色探析[J].丝绸,2014,51(3):48-53.JIA Jia,ZHANG Jingqiong.Analysis on stitch method and match colors of Suzhou embroidery in modern female jacket[J].Journal of Silk,2014,51(3):48-53.
[3]金韺兰.中国编织绣品的传统科技与美学[M].上海:东华大学出版社,2014:53.JIN Yinglan.Traditional Technology and Aesthetics of Chinese Weaving Embroidery[M].Shanghai:Donghua University Press,2014:53.
[4]钱中声,徐军洪.美在人间永不朽:扬州刺绣[M].扬州:扬州广陵书社,2015:4.QIAN Zhongsheng,XU Junhong.Immortal Beauty of Mankind:Yangzhou Embroidery[M].Yangzhou:Guangling Press,2015:4.
[5]张道一.桃坞绣稿:民间刺绣与版刻[M].济南:山东教育出版社,2013:27.ZHANG Daoyi.Taowu Embroidery:Folk Embroidery and Cut Blocks[M].Ji’nan:Shandong Education Press,2013:27.
[6]贺万里.扬州美术史话[M].扬州:扬州广陵书社,2014:83.HE Wanli.History of Yangzhou Fine Art[M].Yangzhou:Guangling Press,2014:83.
[7]阮荣春.中国绘画通论[M].南京:南京大学出版社,2005:143.RUAN Rongchun.Brief of China Painting[M].Nanjing:Nanjing University Press,2005:143.
[8]林锡旦.博物·指间苏州:刺绣[M]//蔡丽新.典范苏州.苏州:古吴轩出版社,2014:192-195.LIN Xidan.Antique·Suzhou among Finger:Embroidery[M]//CAI Lixin.Model Suzhou.Suzhou:Guwuxuan Publishing House,2014:192-195.
[9]李頔,张竞琼,李向军.苏绣中的服饰品绣与画绣主要针法研究[J].丝绸,2012,49(6):50-54.LI Di,ZHANG Jingqiong,LI Xiangjun.Research on main stitches of painting embroidery and embroidered costume in Soochow embroidery[J].Journal of Silk,2012,49(6):50-54.
[10]王章涛,韦明铧,田汉云,等.落日辉煌话扬州[Z].扬州:扬州市档案局,扬州市地方志办公室,2000:238.WANG Zhangtao,WEI Minghua,TIAN Hanyun,et al.The glorious sunsets Yangzhou[Z].Yangzhou:Yangzhou Municipal Archives Bureau,Yangzhou Local Records Office,2000:238.
[11]李涵秋.广陵潮[M].南京:凤凰出版社,2014:895.LI Hanqiu.The Guangling Tide[M].Nanjin:Phoenix Press,2014:895.