强潮海滩响应威马逊台风作用动力沉积过程研究——以北海银滩为例
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摘要
研究台风影响下的海滩沉积过程不仅可加深极端海况下的海滩冲淤变化理解,而且有利于海滩资源的保护与海岸工程保护。以强潮海滩——北海银滩为例,通过采集北部湾海区1409号威马逊超强台风作用前后的沉积物、剖面高程及水文资料,探讨强潮海滩的动力沉积过程。结果表明:1)台风作用前后的海滩沙丘-滩肩-沙坝体系的地貌状态基本不变,其中沉积物组分均为砂,细砂、极细砂和中砂三组分平均含量占所有组分的95%以上;与台风作用前比较,台风后的地貌在维持先前形态的条件下,发生局部侵蚀和后退,沉积物相对变粗且细砂含量增加了10%。2)台风作用后后滨沙丘侵蚀,且沉积物滚动组分增加;冲流带和滩肩前缘沉积物的搬运由双跳跃转为单一的跳跃形式。3)台风作用前后的海滩沉积物主要变化过程可由两个模态表征,其中主要模式反映了台风作用前后的海滩以细砂为主的动力沉积变化特征,该模式受控于区域波浪和潮汐的长期耦合作用,并以波浪为主导因素。台风作用前的次要模式反映潮汐作用控制下的海滩沉积横向振荡特征;台风作用后的次要模式表征了台风影响下的海滩横向沉积物偏粗、冲流带-低潮带振荡及其沉积分异过程。
Research on beach sediment dynamics under the influence of typhoon is of vital significance not only to beach erosion and deposition variations research in extreme ocean conditions,but also to beach resources and coastal engineering protection. Here,based on hydrology,sediments and beach profiles measurements during pre-and post-Typhoon Rammasun(TR) periods,this paper discusses the sediment dynamic processes of Yintan,Beibu Gulf,a macro-tidal beach. The main results show that: 1) The morphological state of the dune-berm-sandbar system is basically unchanged,and both pre-and post-TR periods indicate that Yintan beach is composed by sand component,with fine sand,very fine sand and medium sand accounting for over 95% of the total; compared with pre-TR period,the beach topography during post-TR is partially eroded and retreated in the condition of maintaining the previous form; the sediments are thicker,when fine sand contributes 10%. 2) In post-TR period,backshore dune indicates erosion and rolled sediment components reveal increase; sediment movement behavior over swash zone and beach berm front transfers from double to single jump pattern. 3)Sediment dynamic processes under the influence of TR along Yintan contain two main modes. The main mode reflects that the beach is mainly composed of fine sand,when the beach is controlled by long-term coupling effect of wave and tide,and the wave is the dominant factor; the minor mode represents the horizontal oscillation characteristics of the beach sediments under the control of tide,indicating coarser horizontal sediments,oscillation and differentiation processes in swash and low tide zones.
Research on beach sediment dynamics under the influence of typhoon is of vital significance not only to beach erosion and deposition variations research in extreme ocean conditions,but also to beach resources and coastal engineering protection. Here,based on hydrology,sediments and beach profiles measurements during pre-and post-Typhoon Rammasun(TR) periods,this paper discusses the sediment dynamic processes of Yintan,Beibu Gulf,a macro-tidal beach. The main results show that: 1) The morphological state of the dune-berm-sandbar system is basically unchanged,and both pre-and post-TR periods indicate that Yintan beach is composed by sand component,with fine sand,very fine sand and medium sand accounting for over 95% of the total; compared with pre-TR period,the beach topography during post-TR is partially eroded and retreated in the condition of maintaining the previous form; the sediments are thicker,when fine sand contributes 10%. 2) In post-TR period,backshore dune indicates erosion and rolled sediment components reveal increase; sediment movement behavior over swash zone and beach berm front transfers from double to single jump pattern. 3)Sediment dynamic processes under the influence of TR along Yintan contain two main modes. The main mode reflects that the beach is mainly composed of fine sand,when the beach is controlled by long-term coupling effect of wave and tide,and the wave is the dominant factor; the minor mode represents the horizontal oscillation characteristics of the beach sediments under the control of tide,indicating coarser horizontal sediments,oscillation and differentiation processes in swash and low tide zones.
引文
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[21]DAI Z J,LIU J T,LEI Y P,et al.Patterns of sediment transport pathways on a headland bay beach—Nanwan Beach,South China:A case study[J].Journal of Coastal Research,2010,26(6):1096-1103.
[22]AAGAARD T,HUGHES M,BALDOCK T,et al.Sediment transport processes and morphodynamics on a reflective beach under storm and non-storm conditions[J].Marine Geology,2012,326-328(4):154-165.
[23]SENECHAL N,COCO G,CASTELLE B,et al.Storm impact on the seasonal shoreline dynamics of a meso-to macrotidal open sandy beach(Biscarrosse,France)[J].Geomorphology,2015,228:448-461.
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[25]徐麟村,谢玉岗,陈玉,等.广西壮族自治区海岸带和海涂资源综合调查报告(综合报告)[M].北京:海洋出版社,1986.(XU Lincun,XIE Yugang,CHEN Yu,et al.Coastal zone and coastal resources comprehensive survey report in Guangxi(comprehensive report)[M].Beijing:China Ocean Press,1986.(in Chinese))
[26]杨干然,李春初,罗章仁,等.海岸动力地貌学研究及其在华南港口建设中的应用[M].广州:中山大学出版社,1995.(YANG Ganran,LI Chunchu,LUO Zhangren,et al.The research of coastal dynamic geomorphology and its application in port construction in Southern China[M].Guangzhou:Sun Yat-Sen University Press,1995.(in Chinese))
[27]DAVIS J L.A morphogenic approach to world shorelines[J].Z Geomorpholo,1964,8(127):127-142.
[28]黄鹄,戴志军,施伟勇,等.强潮环境下的海滩剖面沉积特征——以春季广西北海银滩为例[J].热带海洋学报,2011,30(4):71-76.(HUANG Hu,DAI Zhijun,SHI Weiyong,et al.Deposition characteristics of beach profile in strong-tidal environment-A case study of Yintan,Guangxi during spring[J].Journal of Tropical Oceanography,2011,30(4):71-76.(in Chinese))
[29]FOLK R L,WARD W C.Brazos river bar:a study in the significance of grain-size parameters[J].Journal of Sedimentary Petrology,1957,27(1):3-26.
[30]LORENZ E N.Empirical orthogonal functions and statistical weather prediction[R].Cambridge:Massachusetts Institute of Technology,1956:49-50.
[31]夏非,张永战,吴蔚.EOF分析在海岸地貌与沉积学研究中的应用进展[J].地理科学进展,2009(2):174-186.(XIA Fei,ZHANG Yongzhan,WU Wei.Progress in applications of the EOF analysis in the research of coastal geomorphology and sedimentology[J].Progress in Geography,2009(2):174-186.(in Chinese))
[32]戴志军,李春初.华南弧形海岸动力地貌过程[M].上海:华东师范大学出版社,2008.(DAI Zhijun,LI Chunchu.Dynamic geomorphology process of arc-shaped coast in South China[M].Shanghai:East China Normal University Press,2008.(in Chinese))
[33]同济大学科学技术情报组.粒度资料的处理与应用[M].上海:同济大学,1977.(Science and Technology Information Group,Tongji University.Processing and application of grain size data[M].Shanghai:Tongji University,1977.(in Chinese))
[34]杨万康,杨青莹,尹宝树,等.1409号“威马逊”台风对铁山港海域的风暴潮增水研究[J].海洋预报,2016,33(1):80-85.(YANG Wankang,YANG Qingying,YIN Baoshu,et al.Study on the storm surge characteristics of NO.1409 typhoon“Rammasun”along Tieshan Bay[J].Marine Forecasts,2016,33(1):80-85.(in Chinese))
[2]ZHANG K,DOUGLAS B C,LEATHERMAN S P.Global warming and coastal erosion[J].Climatic Change,2004,64(1):41-58.
[3]DUC D M,MAI T N,CHU V N.An analysis of coastal erosion in the tropical rapid accretion delta of the Red River,Vietnam[J].Journal of Asian Earth Sciences,2012,43(1):98-109.
[4]戴志军,张小玲,闫虹,等.台风作用下淤泥质海岸动力地貌响应[J].海洋工程,2009,27(2):63-69.(DAI Zhijun,ZHANG Xiaoling,YAN Hong,et al.Morphodynamic behavior of the mud coast in response to typhoon action[J].The Ocean Engineering,2009,27(2):63-69.(in Chinese))
[5]OTVOS E G.Beach aggradation following hurricane landfall:impact comparisons from two contrasting hurricanes,northern Gulf of Mexico[J].Journal of Coastal Research,2004:326-339.
[6]SEDRATI M,ANTHONY E J.Storm-Generated morphological change and longshore sand transport in the intertidal zone of a multi-barred macrotidal beach[J].Marine Geology,2007,244(1):209-229.
[7]蔡锋,苏贤泽,夏东兴.热带气旋前进方向两侧海滩风暴效应差异研究--以海滩对0307号台风"伊布都"的响应为例[J].海洋科学进展,2004,22(4):436-445.(CAI Feng,SU Xianze,XIA Dongxing.Study on the difference between storm effects of beaches on two sides of the tropical cyclone track[J].Advances in Marine Science,2004,22(4):436-445.(in Chinese))
[8]戚洪帅,蔡锋,雷刚,等.华南海滩风暴响应特征研究[J].自然科学进展,2009,19(9):975-985.(QI Hongshuai,CAI Feng,LEI Gang,et al.Study on storm response characteristics of south china beach[J].Progress in Natural Science,2009,19(9):975-985.(in Chinese))
[9]COSTAS S,ALEJO I,VILA-CONCEJO A,et al.Persistence of storm-induced morphology on a modal low-energy beach:A case study from NW-Iberian Peninsula[J].Marine Geology,2005,224(1-4):43-56.
[10]STOCKDON H F,SALLENGER A H,HOLMAN R A,et al.A simple model for the spatially-variable coastal response to hurricanes[J].Marine Geology,2007,238(1-4):1-20.
[11]ANTHONY E J.Storms,shoreface morphodynamics,sand supply,and the accretion and erosion of coastal dune barriers in the southern North Sea[J].Geomorphology,2013,199(5):8-21.
[12]SILVA R,MARTNEZ M L,ODRIZ I,et al.Response of vegetated dune-beach systems to storm conditions[J].Coastal Engineering,2016,109(109):53-62.
[13]KOMAR P D.Beach processes and sedimentation[M].New Jersey:Prentice2Hall,Inc.,1976:429.
[14]GERVAIS M,BALOUIN Y,BELON R.Morphological response and coastal dynamics associated with major storm events along the Gulf of Lions Coastline,France[J].Geomorphology,2012,143(2):69-80.
[15]QUARTEL S,KROON A,RUESSINK B G.Seasonal accretion and erosion patterns of a microtidal sandy beach[J].Marine Geology,2008,250(1-2):19-33.
[16]LI Y,LARK R M,REEVE D E.Multi-scale variability of beach profiles at Duck:A wavelet analysis[J].Coastal Engineering,2005,52(12):1133-1115.
[17]戴志军,陈子燊,李春初.岬间海滩剖面短期变化的动力作用分析[J].海洋科学,2001,25(11):38-41.(DAI Zhijun CHEN Zishen,LI Chunchu.Analysis of dynamical actions on the process of beach profile between headlands over a short time[J].Marine Sciences,2001,25(11):38-41.(in Chinese))
[18]YU F L,ADAM D S,AN Y A L.A comparison of the post-storm recovery of two sandy beaches on Hong Kong Island,Southern China[J].Quaternary International,2013,304(7):163-175.
[19]邵超,戚洪帅,蔡锋,等.海滩-珊瑚礁系统风暴响应特征研究——以1409号台风“威马逊”对清澜港海岸影响为例[J].海洋学报,2016,38(2):121-130.(SHAO Chao,QI Hongshuai,CAI Feng,et al.Study on storm-effects on beach-coral reef system-Taking the response of Qinglanggang Coast on No.1409 Typhoon Rammasun an example[J].Acta Oceanologica Sinica,2016,38(2):121-130.(in Chinese))
[20]童宵岭,时连强,夏小明,等.1211号台风对浙江象山皇城海滩剖面的影响分析[J].海洋工程,2014,32(1):84-90.(TONG Xiaoling,SHI Lianqiang,XIA Xiaoming,et al.Response of sedimentary and geomorphic characteristics to 1211 typhoon on Zhejiang Huangcheng beach[J].The Ocean Engineering,2014,32(1):84-90.(in Chinese))
[21]DAI Z J,LIU J T,LEI Y P,et al.Patterns of sediment transport pathways on a headland bay beach—Nanwan Beach,South China:A case study[J].Journal of Coastal Research,2010,26(6):1096-1103.
[22]AAGAARD T,HUGHES M,BALDOCK T,et al.Sediment transport processes and morphodynamics on a reflective beach under storm and non-storm conditions[J].Marine Geology,2012,326-328(4):154-165.
[23]SENECHAL N,COCO G,CASTELLE B,et al.Storm impact on the seasonal shoreline dynamics of a meso-to macrotidal open sandy beach(Biscarrosse,France)[J].Geomorphology,2015,228:448-461.
[24]罗章仁,应秩甫.华南港湾[M].广州:中山大学出版社,1992.(LUO Zhangren,YING Zhifu,et al.Harbour-coasts in South China[M].Guangzhou:Sun Yat-Sen University Press,1992.(in Chinese))
[25]徐麟村,谢玉岗,陈玉,等.广西壮族自治区海岸带和海涂资源综合调查报告(综合报告)[M].北京:海洋出版社,1986.(XU Lincun,XIE Yugang,CHEN Yu,et al.Coastal zone and coastal resources comprehensive survey report in Guangxi(comprehensive report)[M].Beijing:China Ocean Press,1986.(in Chinese))
[26]杨干然,李春初,罗章仁,等.海岸动力地貌学研究及其在华南港口建设中的应用[M].广州:中山大学出版社,1995.(YANG Ganran,LI Chunchu,LUO Zhangren,et al.The research of coastal dynamic geomorphology and its application in port construction in Southern China[M].Guangzhou:Sun Yat-Sen University Press,1995.(in Chinese))
[27]DAVIS J L.A morphogenic approach to world shorelines[J].Z Geomorpholo,1964,8(127):127-142.
[28]黄鹄,戴志军,施伟勇,等.强潮环境下的海滩剖面沉积特征——以春季广西北海银滩为例[J].热带海洋学报,2011,30(4):71-76.(HUANG Hu,DAI Zhijun,SHI Weiyong,et al.Deposition characteristics of beach profile in strong-tidal environment-A case study of Yintan,Guangxi during spring[J].Journal of Tropical Oceanography,2011,30(4):71-76.(in Chinese))
[29]FOLK R L,WARD W C.Brazos river bar:a study in the significance of grain-size parameters[J].Journal of Sedimentary Petrology,1957,27(1):3-26.
[30]LORENZ E N.Empirical orthogonal functions and statistical weather prediction[R].Cambridge:Massachusetts Institute of Technology,1956:49-50.
[31]夏非,张永战,吴蔚.EOF分析在海岸地貌与沉积学研究中的应用进展[J].地理科学进展,2009(2):174-186.(XIA Fei,ZHANG Yongzhan,WU Wei.Progress in applications of the EOF analysis in the research of coastal geomorphology and sedimentology[J].Progress in Geography,2009(2):174-186.(in Chinese))
[32]戴志军,李春初.华南弧形海岸动力地貌过程[M].上海:华东师范大学出版社,2008.(DAI Zhijun,LI Chunchu.Dynamic geomorphology process of arc-shaped coast in South China[M].Shanghai:East China Normal University Press,2008.(in Chinese))
[33]同济大学科学技术情报组.粒度资料的处理与应用[M].上海:同济大学,1977.(Science and Technology Information Group,Tongji University.Processing and application of grain size data[M].Shanghai:Tongji University,1977.(in Chinese))
[34]杨万康,杨青莹,尹宝树,等.1409号“威马逊”台风对铁山港海域的风暴潮增水研究[J].海洋预报,2016,33(1):80-85.(YANG Wankang,YANG Qingying,YIN Baoshu,et al.Study on the storm surge characteristics of NO.1409 typhoon“Rammasun”along Tieshan Bay[J].Marine Forecasts,2016,33(1):80-85.(in Chinese))