防晒剂及其研究进展
|
摘要
随着工业技术快速发展,人类对自然环境所造成的影响日趋变大,臭氧层保护作用变弱,阳光中紫外线对人类健康造成威胁,防晒剂成为提高人类健康生活质量的有效化学药剂之一。本文根据紫外线的特点及防晒机理,归纳了传统防晒剂的发展历程及种类,综述了现有防晒剂的种类、化学成分及其优缺点,分析并提出了富有发展前景的三种高科技防晒剂,预示了天然防晒剂的发展新趋势,为研制安全、高效的新型防晒剂提供了创新思路。
Sunscreens have become one of the effective chemicals for improving the quality of human health due to the weakened protection of the ozone layer and the threat to human health of ultraviolet rays in sunlight with the rapid development of industrial technology. According to the characteristics of ultraviolet radiation and mechanism of sunscreen,the development history and types of traditional sunscreen agents, summarizes the types, chemical composition and advantages and disadvantages of existing sunscreen agents were summarized. Three kinds of high-tech sunscreen agents with good development prospects were analyzed and put forward. The new development trend of natural sunscreen agents was forecasted, which provided innovative ideas for the development of safe and efficient new sunscreen agents.
Sunscreens have become one of the effective chemicals for improving the quality of human health due to the weakened protection of the ozone layer and the threat to human health of ultraviolet rays in sunlight with the rapid development of industrial technology. According to the characteristics of ultraviolet radiation and mechanism of sunscreen,the development history and types of traditional sunscreen agents, summarizes the types, chemical composition and advantages and disadvantages of existing sunscreen agents were summarized. Three kinds of high-tech sunscreen agents with good development prospects were analyzed and put forward. The new development trend of natural sunscreen agents was forecasted, which provided innovative ideas for the development of safe and efficient new sunscreen agents.
引文
[1]王玉林.汉麻植物成分防晒性能研究及其在军用防晒护肤品中的应用[D].湛江:广东海洋大学,2013.
[2]袁李梅,邓丹琪.防晒剂的特性及应用[J].皮肤病,2009,31(2):22-23.
[3]Scientific Committee on Cosmetic and Non-Food Products//Minutcs of the 20thPlenary Meeting[C].EC June 4th,2002.
[4]张英锋,范林,马子川.防晒剂防晒机理及其应用[J].化学世界,2007(12):762-765.
[5]姚孝元.我国防晒化妆品中紫外线吸收剂分类和紫外吸收光谱[J].中国卫生检验杂志,2005,15(2):236-241.
[6]张婷婷,张琰,刘梅,等.中药及天然植物防晒作用研究进展[J].中华中医药学刊,2014(3):556-558.
[7]曾芳芳.刺梨果实主要植物化学素及生物活性研究[D].杭州:浙江大学,2017.
[8]林向飞,骆丹,徐晶,等.川芎嗪对中波紫外线辐射后细胞光产物影响及其光保护作用机制的研究[J].中草药,2007,38(6):878-882.
[9]杨纯瑜.防晒剂的种类及其研究进展//全国日用化工学术研讨会[C].2006.
[10]于淑娟,郑玉斌,杜杰,等.防晒剂的发展综述[J].日用化学工业,2005,35(4):248-251.
[11]何西利,傅清,赵桂兰,等.芦丁-黄芩苷防晒霜的研制及性能评价[J].西北药学志,1998,13(6):257.
[12]石春红,郑有飞,李红双,等.黄芩中天然防晒剂的索氏提取工艺研究[J].北方园艺,2008(12):187-189.
[13]张毅,张睿,张昊,等.兔毛角蛋白的制备及其在防晒化妆品中的应用[J].天然产物研究与开发,2018(1):120-126.
[14]李冉,谢国勇,韩宇,等.密蒙花与其替代品结香总提物体外抗氧化活性作用的比较研究[J].现代药物与临床,2018(2):225-230.
[15]左志琴,沈志华.密蒙花黄酮类化合物药学用途研究近况[J].江西中医药,2014(2):73-75.
[16]樊洁,王岩,孙秀萍,等.扇贝(Chlamys farreri)多肽通过EGFR抑制受紫外线UVB诱导的Ha CaT细胞凋亡[J].海洋与湖沼,2014,45(2):328-334.
[17]AKIRA N.JP:7-316457,1995-12 Pigment for forming ultravioletscreening protective film excellent in discoloration prevention effect[P].
[18]KIYOHIDE I.JP:8-188521,1996-07-23 Cosmetic containing natural ultraviolet light absorbing substance[P].
[19]梁红,王继红.防晒化妆品的研究与制备[J].广州化工,1999(4):23-26.
[20]王莹,董怡,许宝宁.植物提取物在化妆品中的应用及展望[J].杭州化工,2016,49(2):11-19.
[21]王雪梅,侯晓薇,王永智.植物紫外吸收剂的筛选研究[J].日用化学工业,2005,35(3):164-166.
[22]Mturi G J,Martincigh B S.Photostability of the sunscreening agent 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane(avobenzone)in solvents of different polarity and proticity[J].Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology A:Chemistry,2008,200(2-3):410-420.
[23]Karlsson I,Hillerstrom L,Stenfeldt A L,et al.Photodegradation of dibenzoylmethanes:Potential cause of photocontact allergy to sunscreens[J].Chemical Research in Toxicology,2009,22(11):1881-1892.
[24]Scalia S,Mezzena M.Incorporation in lipid microparticles of the UVAfilter,butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane combined with the UVB filter,octocrylene:Effect on photostability[J].Aaps Pharmscitech,2009,10(2):384-390.
[25]Krause M,Klit A,Blomberg Jensen M,et al.Sunscreens:are they beneficial for health?An overview of endocrine disrupting properties of UVfilters[J].International Journal of Andrology,2012,35(3):424-436.
[26]Couteau C,Chauvet C,Paparis E,et al.UV filters,ingredients with a recognized anti-inflammatory effect[J].PLoS One,2012,7(12):e46187.
[27]Chatelain E,Gabard B.Photostabilization of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane(Avobenzone)and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate by bisethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyl triazine(Tinosorb S),a new UVbroadband filter[J].Photochemistry and Photobiology,2001,74(3):401-406.
[28]Durand L,Habran N,Henschel V,et al.In vitro evaluation of the cutaneous penetration of sprayable sunscreen emulsions with high concentrations of UV filters[J].International Journal of Cosmetic Science,2009,31(4):279-292.
[29]Shaw T,Simpson B,Wilson B,et al.True photoallergy to sunscreens is rare despite popular belief[J].Dermatitis Contact Atopic Occupational Drug,2010,21(4):185-198.
[30]Chatelain E,Gabard B,Surber C.Skin penetration and sun protection factor of five UV filters:Effect of the vehicle[J].Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol,2003,16(1):28-35.
[31]Liu Y S,Ying G G,Shareef A,et al.Photostability of the UV filter benzophenone-3 and its effect on the photodegradation of benzotriazole in water[J].Environmental Chemistry,2011,8(6):581-588.
[32]周宏飞,黄炯,寿露,等.防晒剂的研究进展[J].浙江师范大学学报(自然科学版),2017,40(2):206-213.
[33]杨永鹏,董萍,左夏林,等.防晒化妆品的技术革命之第五篇-光控智能防晒化妆品的设计与设想[J].中国化妆品,2011(1):72-77.
[34]郑利,余雯静,沈洁.防晒化妆品功能与安全性评估研究[J].中外医疗,2009(28):120-121.
[35]徐德峰,赵谋明,马忠华,等.基于胞外基质代谢调控网络的皮肤老化机制的研究进展[J].皮肤病与性病,2016(2):112-115.
[36]郑洁.防晒剂的性能及质量评价[J].日用化学品科学,2010,33(8):18-21.
[2]袁李梅,邓丹琪.防晒剂的特性及应用[J].皮肤病,2009,31(2):22-23.
[3]Scientific Committee on Cosmetic and Non-Food Products//Minutcs of the 20thPlenary Meeting[C].EC June 4th,2002.
[4]张英锋,范林,马子川.防晒剂防晒机理及其应用[J].化学世界,2007(12):762-765.
[5]姚孝元.我国防晒化妆品中紫外线吸收剂分类和紫外吸收光谱[J].中国卫生检验杂志,2005,15(2):236-241.
[6]张婷婷,张琰,刘梅,等.中药及天然植物防晒作用研究进展[J].中华中医药学刊,2014(3):556-558.
[7]曾芳芳.刺梨果实主要植物化学素及生物活性研究[D].杭州:浙江大学,2017.
[8]林向飞,骆丹,徐晶,等.川芎嗪对中波紫外线辐射后细胞光产物影响及其光保护作用机制的研究[J].中草药,2007,38(6):878-882.
[9]杨纯瑜.防晒剂的种类及其研究进展//全国日用化工学术研讨会[C].2006.
[10]于淑娟,郑玉斌,杜杰,等.防晒剂的发展综述[J].日用化学工业,2005,35(4):248-251.
[11]何西利,傅清,赵桂兰,等.芦丁-黄芩苷防晒霜的研制及性能评价[J].西北药学志,1998,13(6):257.
[12]石春红,郑有飞,李红双,等.黄芩中天然防晒剂的索氏提取工艺研究[J].北方园艺,2008(12):187-189.
[13]张毅,张睿,张昊,等.兔毛角蛋白的制备及其在防晒化妆品中的应用[J].天然产物研究与开发,2018(1):120-126.
[14]李冉,谢国勇,韩宇,等.密蒙花与其替代品结香总提物体外抗氧化活性作用的比较研究[J].现代药物与临床,2018(2):225-230.
[15]左志琴,沈志华.密蒙花黄酮类化合物药学用途研究近况[J].江西中医药,2014(2):73-75.
[16]樊洁,王岩,孙秀萍,等.扇贝(Chlamys farreri)多肽通过EGFR抑制受紫外线UVB诱导的Ha CaT细胞凋亡[J].海洋与湖沼,2014,45(2):328-334.
[17]AKIRA N.JP:7-316457,1995-12 Pigment for forming ultravioletscreening protective film excellent in discoloration prevention effect[P].
[18]KIYOHIDE I.JP:8-188521,1996-07-23 Cosmetic containing natural ultraviolet light absorbing substance[P].
[19]梁红,王继红.防晒化妆品的研究与制备[J].广州化工,1999(4):23-26.
[20]王莹,董怡,许宝宁.植物提取物在化妆品中的应用及展望[J].杭州化工,2016,49(2):11-19.
[21]王雪梅,侯晓薇,王永智.植物紫外吸收剂的筛选研究[J].日用化学工业,2005,35(3):164-166.
[22]Mturi G J,Martincigh B S.Photostability of the sunscreening agent 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane(avobenzone)in solvents of different polarity and proticity[J].Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology A:Chemistry,2008,200(2-3):410-420.
[23]Karlsson I,Hillerstrom L,Stenfeldt A L,et al.Photodegradation of dibenzoylmethanes:Potential cause of photocontact allergy to sunscreens[J].Chemical Research in Toxicology,2009,22(11):1881-1892.
[24]Scalia S,Mezzena M.Incorporation in lipid microparticles of the UVAfilter,butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane combined with the UVB filter,octocrylene:Effect on photostability[J].Aaps Pharmscitech,2009,10(2):384-390.
[25]Krause M,Klit A,Blomberg Jensen M,et al.Sunscreens:are they beneficial for health?An overview of endocrine disrupting properties of UVfilters[J].International Journal of Andrology,2012,35(3):424-436.
[26]Couteau C,Chauvet C,Paparis E,et al.UV filters,ingredients with a recognized anti-inflammatory effect[J].PLoS One,2012,7(12):e46187.
[27]Chatelain E,Gabard B.Photostabilization of butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane(Avobenzone)and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate by bisethylhexyloxyphenolmethoxyphenyl triazine(Tinosorb S),a new UVbroadband filter[J].Photochemistry and Photobiology,2001,74(3):401-406.
[28]Durand L,Habran N,Henschel V,et al.In vitro evaluation of the cutaneous penetration of sprayable sunscreen emulsions with high concentrations of UV filters[J].International Journal of Cosmetic Science,2009,31(4):279-292.
[29]Shaw T,Simpson B,Wilson B,et al.True photoallergy to sunscreens is rare despite popular belief[J].Dermatitis Contact Atopic Occupational Drug,2010,21(4):185-198.
[30]Chatelain E,Gabard B,Surber C.Skin penetration and sun protection factor of five UV filters:Effect of the vehicle[J].Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol,2003,16(1):28-35.
[31]Liu Y S,Ying G G,Shareef A,et al.Photostability of the UV filter benzophenone-3 and its effect on the photodegradation of benzotriazole in water[J].Environmental Chemistry,2011,8(6):581-588.
[32]周宏飞,黄炯,寿露,等.防晒剂的研究进展[J].浙江师范大学学报(自然科学版),2017,40(2):206-213.
[33]杨永鹏,董萍,左夏林,等.防晒化妆品的技术革命之第五篇-光控智能防晒化妆品的设计与设想[J].中国化妆品,2011(1):72-77.
[34]郑利,余雯静,沈洁.防晒化妆品功能与安全性评估研究[J].中外医疗,2009(28):120-121.
[35]徐德峰,赵谋明,马忠华,等.基于胞外基质代谢调控网络的皮肤老化机制的研究进展[J].皮肤病与性病,2016(2):112-115.
[36]郑洁.防晒剂的性能及质量评价[J].日用化学品科学,2010,33(8):18-21.