基于收针工艺的全成形毛衫分割线设计原理
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摘要
为丰富全成形毛衫款式设计,以岛精公司MACH2XS15312G全成形四针床电脑横机为实验设备、结合SDS-ONE APEX 3设计系统,对全成形毛衫分割线设计原理进行研究。从叠针工艺、比率收针工艺、旋转工艺3种收针工艺探讨分割线成形原理,并以全成形长袖V领连衣裙为例,探讨全成形收针工艺形成分割线的具体应用。结果表明:叠针工艺适用于省道、褶裥的成形,形成直线分割;比率收针工艺用于袖窿编织,形成曲线分割;旋转工艺适用于前后尺寸差时的编织,形成曲线分割,同时采用筒编收针工艺解决了裁剪对针织线圈的破坏及缝合后接缝不平服的问题。
In order to enrich the design of whole garment,the Shima seiki MACH2 XS15312 G four bed flat knitting machine was used as the experimental equipment,combined with the SDS-ONE APEX 3 design system to study the design principle of the whole garment dividing line. The principle of splitting line forming was discussed from three kinds of narrowing methods: the stitching process,the ratioreceiving process and the rotating process. The whole garment long-sleeve V-neck dress was taken as an example to discuss the application of the whole garment narrowing process to form the dividing line. The results show that the needle folding process is suitable for the forming of dart and pleating to form straight line segmentation. The ratio needle drawing process is used for armhole braiding to form curve segmentation,and the rotation technique is suitable for before and after size difference. At the same time,the problem of the damage of the knitting stitch and the unevenness of the seam after the stitching are solved by the barrel knitting process.
In order to enrich the design of whole garment,the Shima seiki MACH2 XS15312 G four bed flat knitting machine was used as the experimental equipment,combined with the SDS-ONE APEX 3 design system to study the design principle of the whole garment dividing line. The principle of splitting line forming was discussed from three kinds of narrowing methods: the stitching process,the ratioreceiving process and the rotating process. The whole garment long-sleeve V-neck dress was taken as an example to discuss the application of the whole garment narrowing process to form the dividing line. The results show that the needle folding process is suitable for the forming of dart and pleating to form straight line segmentation. The ratio needle drawing process is used for armhole braiding to form curve segmentation,and the rotation technique is suitable for before and after size difference. At the same time,the problem of the damage of the knitting stitch and the unevenness of the seam after the stitching are solved by the barrel knitting process.
引文
[1]王敏,丛洪莲,蒋高明,等.四针床电脑横机的全成形工艺[J].纺织学报,2017,38(4):61-67.WANG Min,CONG Honglian,JIANG Gaoming,et al.Whole garment knitting process on four-bed computerized flat knitting machine[J].Journal of Textile Research,2017,38(4):61-67.
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[3]邱庄岩,吴志明,蒋高明.全成形毛衫肩袖成形工艺[J].纺织学报,2018,39(3):56-60,66.QIU Zhuangyan,WU Zhiming,JIANG Gaoming.Forming process of shoulder and sleeves of whole garment[J].Journal of Textile Research,2018,39(3):56-60,66.
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[6]吴小兵.褶饰工艺技术在女装设计变化中的应用[J].丝绸,2007(8):20-22.WU Xiaobing.Application of pleating technology in women's wear design change[J].Journal of Silk,2007(8):20-22.
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[8]汪立群.服装分割线设计研究[D].北京:北京服装学院,2007:5-10.WANG Liqun.The study on the panel styling design[D].Beijing:Beijing Institute of Clothing Technology,2007:5-10
[9]蒋红英.服装褶纹元素的演变与立体构成方法探析[J].纺织学报,2011,32(11):100-105.JIANG Hongying.Historical development of garment pleats and three-dimensional shaping[J].Journal of Textile Research,2011,32(11):100-105.
[10]郭蓬.分割线设计在女装造型中的应用研究[D].西安:西安工程大学,2013:5-15.GUO Peng.The applied research of Panel Styling line in the costumes[D].Xi'an:Xi'an Polytechnic University,2013:5-15.
[2]彭佳佳,蒋高明,丛洪莲,等.全成形毛衫的结构与编织原理[J].纺织学报,2017,38(11):48-55.PENG Jiajia,JIANG Gaoming,CONG Honglian,et al.Structure and knitting principle of whole garment[J].Journal of Textile Research,2017,38(11):48-55.
[3]邱庄岩,吴志明,蒋高明.全成形毛衫肩袖成形工艺[J].纺织学报,2018,39(3):56-60,66.QIU Zhuangyan,WU Zhiming,JIANG Gaoming.Forming process of shoulder and sleeves of whole garment[J].Journal of Textile Research,2018,39(3):56-60,66.
[4]龙海如.针织学[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2008:160-161.LONG Hairu.Knitting Technology[M].Beijing:China Textile&Apparel Press,2008:160-161.
[5]王敏.四针床电脑横机的全成形工艺研究[D].无锡:江南大学,2017:22-23WANG Min.The research of whole garment knitting process on four-needle beds computerized flat knitting machine[D].Wuxi:Jiangnan University,2017:22-23.
[6]吴小兵.褶饰工艺技术在女装设计变化中的应用[J].丝绸,2007(8):20-22.WU Xiaobing.Application of pleating technology in women's wear design change[J].Journal of Silk,2007(8):20-22.
[7]姚晓林.省和褶的局部编织实现[J].上海纺织科技,2013,41(6):51-53.YAO Xiaolin.Implementation method of dart and pleat by partially knitting technology[J].Journal of Textile Research,2013,41(6):51-53.
[8]汪立群.服装分割线设计研究[D].北京:北京服装学院,2007:5-10.WANG Liqun.The study on the panel styling design[D].Beijing:Beijing Institute of Clothing Technology,2007:5-10
[9]蒋红英.服装褶纹元素的演变与立体构成方法探析[J].纺织学报,2011,32(11):100-105.JIANG Hongying.Historical development of garment pleats and three-dimensional shaping[J].Journal of Textile Research,2011,32(11):100-105.
[10]郭蓬.分割线设计在女装造型中的应用研究[D].西安:西安工程大学,2013:5-15.GUO Peng.The applied research of Panel Styling line in the costumes[D].Xi'an:Xi'an Polytechnic University,2013:5-15.