中欧刺绣艺术在服装装饰中的应用差异
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摘要
刺绣艺术在服装中具有重要的装饰作用,通过分析中国与欧洲不同的刺绣艺术形式,说明刺绣艺术在服装装饰中的思维模式、题材选择、材料使用及区域设置方面的不同。运用对比论证的方法得出中欧刺绣服装的审美差异,即中国突显标识功能和欧洲发挥艺术特色。旨在为服装装饰适应不同市场需要而发挥各自优势提供参考,在突出文化与审美差异的同时,寻找突破互补的途径。
Embroidery art has an importantly-decorative role in clothing. This paper compared the different forms of embroidery art between China and Europe to study the differences in the mode of thinking,the choice of subject matter,the use of materials and the area settings. The aesthetic differences between China and Europe were obtained by means of comparison and demonstration. The conclusion was that China focused on the display and identification function while Europe gave full play to artistic features. The study could provide reference for the ways to find the complementary breakthroughs to meet the needs of different markets,while stressing the differences in culture and aesthetics.
Embroidery art has an importantly-decorative role in clothing. This paper compared the different forms of embroidery art between China and Europe to study the differences in the mode of thinking,the choice of subject matter,the use of materials and the area settings. The aesthetic differences between China and Europe were obtained by means of comparison and demonstration. The conclusion was that China focused on the display and identification function while Europe gave full play to artistic features. The study could provide reference for the ways to find the complementary breakthroughs to meet the needs of different markets,while stressing the differences in culture and aesthetics.
引文
[1]孙佩兰.吴地苏绣[M].苏州:苏州大学出版社,2009.
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[3]范强.刺绣与现代服饰[J].丝绸,2005(7):14-15.FAN Qiang.Stitchwork and modern trappings[J].Journal of Silk,2005(7):14-15.(in Chinese)
[4]张元美.中西丝绸服饰的设计及其文化差异——以中国NE·TIGRE和意大利D&G为例[J].丝绸,2014,51(1):55-59.ZHANG Yuanmei.Design and cultural differences of Chinese and western silk costumes:take NE·TIGER in China and D&G in Italy for example[J].Journal of Silk,2014,51(1):55-59.(in Chinese)
[5]陆洁.传统刺绣在现代女装设计中的运用[J].现代丝绸科学与技术,2015,30(2):62-64,78.LU Jie.The application of traditional embroidery in modern women's wear design[J].Modern Silk Science and Technology,2015,30(2):62-64,78.(in Chinese)
[6]李芳.中西传统服饰植物纹样比较研究[J].丝绸,2015,52(6):54-60.LI Fang.Comparative study of plant patterns in Chinese and Western traditional clothing[J].Journal of Silk,2015,52(6):54-60.(in Chinese)
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[8]尹娜.中、欧石榴纹样艺术特征比较[J].丝绸,2015,52(6):48-53.YI Na.Comparison of art characteristics of European and Chinese pomegranate patterns[J].Journal of Silk,2015,52(6):48-53.(in Chinese)
[9]温婉妖蝎chinoiserie刺绣的洛可可服饰[EB/OL].(2016-03-25)[2018-07-20].http://image.baidu.com/search/redirect?tn=redirect&word=j&juid=617102&sign=ckkgkewawa&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.duitang.com%2Fpeople%2Fmblog%2F486271943%2Fdetail%2F&objurl=http%3A%2F%2Fimg4.duitang.com%2Fuploads%2Fitem%2F201511%2F22%2F20151122211235_f4NUw.jpegchinoiserie.
[10]米小欧.Dior巅峰时刻[EB/OL].(2017-09-29)[2018-07-20].www.mioreport.com/people/mingren/18133.html.
[11]廖军,许星.中国服饰百年[M].上海:上海文化出版社,2009:64.
[12]共享玛丽皇后音乐下午茶沙龙醉人[EB/OL].(2017-06-17)[2018-07-20].http://image.baidu.com/search/redirect?tn=redirect&word=j&juid=617102&sign=ckkgkewbiw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sohu.com%2Fa%2F149808785_170023&objurl=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.mp.itc.cn%2Fupload%2F20170618%2Fc78d8856883b490696644c0941684b4c_th.jpg.
[13]于文军,刘永明.中西传统思维方式比较[J].辽宁师范大学(哲学社会科学版),1990(3):9-13.YU Wenjun,LIU Yongming.Comparison of traditional Chinese and western thinking modes[J].Journal of Liaoning Normal University(Social Science Edition),1990(3):9-13.(in Chinese)
[14]郭润坤,杨晓琪.当代中西方刺绣服饰的审美比较[J].艺术与设计,2018,2(1):81-83.GUO Runkun,YANG Xiaoqi.Aesthetic comparison between contemporary Chinese and western embroidered costumes[J].Art And Design,2018,2(1):81-83.(in Chinese)
[2]林锡旦.苏州刺绣[M].苏州:苏州大学出版社,2004:43.
[3]范强.刺绣与现代服饰[J].丝绸,2005(7):14-15.FAN Qiang.Stitchwork and modern trappings[J].Journal of Silk,2005(7):14-15.(in Chinese)
[4]张元美.中西丝绸服饰的设计及其文化差异——以中国NE·TIGRE和意大利D&G为例[J].丝绸,2014,51(1):55-59.ZHANG Yuanmei.Design and cultural differences of Chinese and western silk costumes:take NE·TIGER in China and D&G in Italy for example[J].Journal of Silk,2014,51(1):55-59.(in Chinese)
[5]陆洁.传统刺绣在现代女装设计中的运用[J].现代丝绸科学与技术,2015,30(2):62-64,78.LU Jie.The application of traditional embroidery in modern women's wear design[J].Modern Silk Science and Technology,2015,30(2):62-64,78.(in Chinese)
[6]李芳.中西传统服饰植物纹样比较研究[J].丝绸,2015,52(6):54-60.LI Fang.Comparative study of plant patterns in Chinese and Western traditional clothing[J].Journal of Silk,2015,52(6):54-60.(in Chinese)
[7]崔荣荣,梁惠娥.服饰刺绣与民俗情感语言表达[J].纺织学报,2008,29(12):78-82.CUI Rongrong,LIANG Hui'e.Clothing embroidery and folk custom emotionality language expression[J].Journal of Textile Research,2008,29(12):78-82.(in Chinese)
[8]尹娜.中、欧石榴纹样艺术特征比较[J].丝绸,2015,52(6):48-53.YI Na.Comparison of art characteristics of European and Chinese pomegranate patterns[J].Journal of Silk,2015,52(6):48-53.(in Chinese)
[9]温婉妖蝎chinoiserie刺绣的洛可可服饰[EB/OL].(2016-03-25)[2018-07-20].http://image.baidu.com/search/redirect?tn=redirect&word=j&juid=617102&sign=ckkgkewawa&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.duitang.com%2Fpeople%2Fmblog%2F486271943%2Fdetail%2F&objurl=http%3A%2F%2Fimg4.duitang.com%2Fuploads%2Fitem%2F201511%2F22%2F20151122211235_f4NUw.jpegchinoiserie.
[10]米小欧.Dior巅峰时刻[EB/OL].(2017-09-29)[2018-07-20].www.mioreport.com/people/mingren/18133.html.
[11]廖军,许星.中国服饰百年[M].上海:上海文化出版社,2009:64.
[12]共享玛丽皇后音乐下午茶沙龙醉人[EB/OL].(2017-06-17)[2018-07-20].http://image.baidu.com/search/redirect?tn=redirect&word=j&juid=617102&sign=ckkgkewbiw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sohu.com%2Fa%2F149808785_170023&objurl=http%3A%2F%2Fimg.mp.itc.cn%2Fupload%2F20170618%2Fc78d8856883b490696644c0941684b4c_th.jpg.
[13]于文军,刘永明.中西传统思维方式比较[J].辽宁师范大学(哲学社会科学版),1990(3):9-13.YU Wenjun,LIU Yongming.Comparison of traditional Chinese and western thinking modes[J].Journal of Liaoning Normal University(Social Science Edition),1990(3):9-13.(in Chinese)
[14]郭润坤,杨晓琪.当代中西方刺绣服饰的审美比较[J].艺术与设计,2018,2(1):81-83.GUO Runkun,YANG Xiaoqi.Aesthetic comparison between contemporary Chinese and western embroidered costumes[J].Art And Design,2018,2(1):81-83.(in Chinese)