崇武近岸的波浪模型与设计波浪的推算
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- 英文论文题名：Inshore Wave Model and Calculation of Engineering Wave
- 论文作者：郑艺妃 ; 黄龙展 ; 潘伟然 ; 肖征
- 英文论文作者：ZHENG Yi-fei ; PAN Wei-ran ; LIN Yi-hui ; ZHENG Xiang-jing ; TAO Xiao-qin ; College of ocean and earth sciences ; Xiamen University ; Fujian Provincial Joint Key Laboratory for Marine Environmental Science ; Xiamen University
- 年：2016
- 作者机构：厦门大学海洋与地球学院;福建省海洋环境科学联合重点实验室;
- 论文关键词：设计波浪 ; CGWAVE模型 ; 破碎带
- 英文论文关键词：Designed wave ; CGWAVE model ; wave surf zones
- 会议召开时间：2016-11-11
- 会议录名称：福建省海洋学会2016年学术年会论文摘要集
- 语种：中文
- 分类号：P731.22
- 学会代码：FJHY
- 会议名称：福建省海洋学会2016年学术年会
- 会议地点：中国福建厦门
- 主办单位：福建省海洋学会、福建省水产研究所
- 学会名称：福建省海洋学会
- 页数：1
- 文件大小：55k
- 原文格式：O
- 会议级别：地方
摘要
本文根据崇武海洋站1976—2007年共31年的波浪观测资料,使用皮尔逊Ⅲ型频率曲线进行拟合分析,推算出崇武在不同重现期条件下的特征波浪要素,将其作为外海波浪要素输入,通过基于改进的椭圆型缓坡方程的CGWAVE近岸波浪数值模型,模拟西沙湾的重现期波浪场,得到其设计波浪要素,并取了较为合理的计算结果。模拟结果表明,西沙湾的海底地形强烈地影响近岸波浪,导致了波浪场的不均匀分布特征,东侧水域受龟屿及闽台码头的掩护,波浪折射、绕射明显,SE方向的入射波通过该水域时波高衰减可达4 m多,对避风坞起到了有效的保护作用,底摩擦耗散在S向波浪传播过程中起着主导作用,可使波高衰减3.7m。此外,对于不同陆相的边界,反射系数不同使得近岸波高分布有明显差异;潮位的不同也会使近岸波高存在较大区别,并且使得破碎带随着潮汐的涨落前后移动,在一个潮周期内形成很宽的波浪破碎作用带。
Based on the 31 years wave observations data of Chongwu ocean station from 1976 to2007,using Pearson Ⅲ type of frequency curve fitting analysis to obtain the characteristics wave parameters for different return period of Chongwu,and then using CGWAVE model,which is an inshore wave numerical model based the elliptic mild-slope equation,to simulate the Xisha Bay return period wave field and get the design wave parameters.From the simulation calculation,we find that the seafloor topography of Xisha Bay strongly influence coastal wave,cause the uneven distribution of wave height and wave direction.Islands and reefs are natural barriers,the eastern water is protected by Kusu island and pier,wave reflection and diffraction is obvious,play an effective protection on the sheltered dock.Bottom friction dissipation plays a leading role in S direction incident wave's propagation process.Moreover,different reflection coefficient of different geological boundary will lead to nearshore wave height distribution in large difference.Different tides also make nearshore wave height there in a big difference,and make the surf zones move back and forth with tidal fluctuations,thus form a wide wave breaking zone.
Based on the 31 years wave observations data of Chongwu ocean station from 1976 to2007,using Pearson Ⅲ type of frequency curve fitting analysis to obtain the characteristics wave parameters for different return period of Chongwu,and then using CGWAVE model,which is an inshore wave numerical model based the elliptic mild-slope equation,to simulate the Xisha Bay return period wave field and get the design wave parameters.From the simulation calculation,we find that the seafloor topography of Xisha Bay strongly influence coastal wave,cause the uneven distribution of wave height and wave direction.Islands and reefs are natural barriers,the eastern water is protected by Kusu island and pier,wave reflection and diffraction is obvious,play an effective protection on the sheltered dock.Bottom friction dissipation plays a leading role in S direction incident wave's propagation process.Moreover,different reflection coefficient of different geological boundary will lead to nearshore wave height distribution in large difference.Different tides also make nearshore wave height there in a big difference,and make the surf zones move back and forth with tidal fluctuations,thus form a wide wave breaking zone.
引文